New Flathead “Steaming” Exhaust

[Kurt in NJ]

You say 8 is the bottom in the picture, but on 8ba the larger water passages on the end are in the rear of the block, could the gasket have been on backwards??
I recently worked on a packard, the gasket was having problems down the center, the head looked recently surfaced, it was evenly low down the center, I suspect the surfacing machine had too much tilt in the spindle----- I learned a long time ago to check all machine work

[50flatF3]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

You say 8 is the bottom in the picture, but on 8ba the larger water passages on the end are in the rear of the block, could the gasket have been on backwards??

Looking at the gasket again I think you may be right....might be that simple.

[Will D]

If the gasket was on backwards, how did this I indent get here(white arrow). That would have come from the water passage on the block beside #8....

[50flatF3]

Update. Got the gaskets installed, ran for 15 mins, let cool retorqued, then repeated once more. The truck already runs better. Passenger tail pipe doesn’t smoke anymore, drivers still does. Checked plugs, #8 (one closest to firewall on drivers side) is steam cleaned but not wet. I am going to add some block sealer tomorrow and drive a bit. See if this improves it. Does anyone have experience using bars block sealer and permanently fixing a leak? I’ve also came to the conclusion there must be quite a bit of moisture in my pipes cause a lot of water came out after running the first time, I assume this is after sitting all winter...

Sam

Thanks

[50flatF3]

Also here is the picture of the truck. I started the restoration when I was 17 am 24 now so looking forward to wrapping it up.

Sam

[koates]

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You need to retorque the heads 4 or 5 times when the engine is fully cold after each running session to make sure they are seated correctly. Regards, Kevin.

[Bored&Stroked]

If you use a block sealer, do not use the BARS stuff. Here is a good product:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35500/10002/-1

Make sure you do EXACTLY as the product recommends - sometimes it takes two "doses" of the product to work. It may just resolve your issue - depending on what it is and how bad it is.

Good luck, hopefully you get your truck on the road soon and get to enjoy it!

[AnthonyG]

I had similar problem with my 8BA after storing over first winter season. It was a fresh rebuild as well. Just reading & wish I got to you earlier. Was kind of surprised no one mention this specific type engine sealer or I missed it? FB guys suggested either of these when I had the issue & it resolved it. Copper or aluminum powder engine sealant. I used the aluminum type per direction & problem disappeared & didn’t come back. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/asbp73?pos=1
Also thought of another great tip from Tubman or JSeery, maybe both. All the threads in the block for the head bolts need to be cleaned with a thread cleaning tool made from a mild steel longer bolt or thread all that’s had a v-groove or slot ground into it, to turn in & out of threads cleaning the old thread seal from threads.

[1931 flamingo]

Used AlumAseal many times in my younger days.......................
Paul in CT

[HD Rider]

Originally Posted by 50flatF3

Also here is the picture of the truck. I started the restoration when I was 17 am 24 now so looking forward to wrapping it up.

Sam

Nice Truck!
It's good to see young guys take an interest is old stuff.

[cmbrucew]

I also like the truck, and color scheme. Enjoy it.


Bruce

[JWL]

Jack makes a very good point---are the block and heads flat? From the gasket picture it looks very suspect. Borrow a precision straight edge and do some investigating with a feeler gage.

[Old Redneck]

If you use block sealer mix it in a jar before you dump it in the radiator.

[cmbrucew]

Originally Posted by Old Redneck

If you use block sealer mix it in a jar before you dump it in the radiator.

Never thought about that before. Real good advise.


Bruce

[3twinridges]

When you torqued the head bolts, did you follow the sequence recommended in the manual? You probably did but just checking on that.

JB

[elwood]

Steaming out the exhaust, ahh I remember so well the first time, I remember sitting on the curb behind my pickup and crying, I knew what it was right away,
I can tell you 99.9 % sure what it is.. its a crack running down deep down into one of the exhaust runners, these ol blocks like to rust, they like to gather rust in between the cylinder walls and the exhaust runners, blocking most if not all water travel around the exhaust runners, metal is thin there, thus the cracking issues they have ..
Cant get to the cracks down in there to stich them, Ive tried silver souldering them, brazing them, Ive never had any luck, I now have a pressure testing unit, and a maganfluxer, two years ago I hauled 11 blocks, all cracked in the exhaust runners, tyo the scrap yard, Ivew got 3 blocks now sitting out side, all with cracks in the exhaust runners..
Ive got 2 gorgeous, beautiful late blocks, wouldnt take 2k for eather one, sound crazy ? Find a good one , there worth there weaght in gold .. you know, if your a flathead dummie like me ..
ps, sorry bout my spelling ..

[50flatF3]

I may pull the left head off again...if I do I will check for flatness. And yes I followed the pattern for re torquing. Have retorqued the heads 5 times now. As of last night, I don’t have any coolant in my oil, I don’t have coolant sitting in my #8 cylinder after sitting since Saturday (cranked engine over with plug out) and haven’t had a change in coolant level in my radiator. . I plan to try the Moroso block sealer over the weekend, (that’s a good idea of mixing in a jar) will be flushing the coolant system this week. If I am dealing with a leak it’s a very small one. Am curious to see how it responds, it it doesn’t will be pulling the drivers side head again.

Sam

[AnthonyG]

Sam, I appreciate ur youth energy & wish I had it but don’t take head off yet!!! Try the aluminum or copper powder engine sealer. Its almost a standard that lots of guys try & works especially on the small leaks cracks! If your not seeing coolant in oil any more & just just some steam from one pipe give the sealer a shot. The ones recommended in my earlier post has held for 3 yrs with no issues. Easy try may save money & time! If still persists you can still take the head off but seems to me your close enough to try it!

[50flatF3]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Sam, I appreciate ur youth energy & wish I had it but don’t take head off yet!!! Try the aluminum or copper powder engine sealer. Its almost a standard that lots of guys try & works especially on the small leaks cracks! If your not seeing coolant in oil any more & just just some steam from one pipe give the sealer a shot. The ones recommended in my earlier post has held for 3 yrs with no issues. Easy try may save money & time! If still persists you can still take the head off but seems to me your close enough to try it!

I think it’s worth a shot. I did end up picking up some of that alumaseal from oreillys so I will try that first.

The motivation comes from working on this night after night and being so close to the finish line, then I can start a new project ...will report back with the results later this week.

Sam

[50flatF3]

Here is a video of the truck idling.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ9T3Vj8cx0

Sam