water outlet leaking

[1930artdeco]

The water outlet on my Y block leaks and it is driving me nuts-the polite forum nuts that is. I have gone through two sealings with aviation forma gasket and two with gaska cinch. I even bought a new outlet to make sure the surface was flat and not pitted. This last time I let it set up for two days (followed the instructions as far as application) and it drips out the bottom. I am not going to use RTV-Black this next time and make a mess. Any other thoughts before I have to pull the manifold and have it sanded smooth?

Thanks,

Mike

[Dobie Gillis]

Resurfacing the manifold would be my next thought; sounds like you've tried everything else...

[40cpe]

I used this with success on a water pump that wouldn't seal with gaskets.
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-gl...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

A heavy bead is placed around the sealing surface, install the thermostat housing finger tight so that the sealant bulges slightly. Let dry for the prescribed time, and tighten.

[Gene F]

Are you positive it is not the hose? I had something similar happen on my ElCamino. Turns out worm gear style clams actually pinch a hose tight. That is why they are NEVER used on the newer plastic radiators. Put a little either on a rag and clean around the hose. Next morning run your finger around there.... Works especially good if you use antifreeze.

[5851a]

Can you run a file over the manifold? Look to see if last thread or 2 is pulled out of hole. You housing bolts are not bottoming out are they?

[Daves55Sedan]

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Assuming you are talking about the "gooseneck" thermostat housing, there is a metal tube at the bottom where a short piece of heater hose connects to the back of the water pump. That metal tube may be compromised from corrosion. You can buy new metal tubes to repair the cast-iron "gooseneck" from most of the popular resto parts suppliers.
Be careful removing the old tube from the "gooseneck" so as not to break the cast-iron.
The tube is a pressed fit into the bore of the gooseneck.
You can probably drive the new metal tube into the "gooseneck" at home if you have an accurate (not sloppy) workbench vice if it opens up that far. If not, take the parts to a repair shop that has a press and they can press it in for you.

[fordor41]

paint the mating surface of thermo housing with a magic marker and rub it on a flat surface with fine sandpaper. should show you any surface problems. also too long of bolts or thermo is slipping out of place during install or maybe bad threads in intake

[paul2748]

Whenever possible, I install studs in the intake to hold the housing. Makes it a lot easier to install everything.


Make sure the thermostat is not hitting the lower part of the heater valve or whatever you have for the heater hose that goes into the manifold.


Make sure there is noting on the thermostat itself that may be preventing a seal.

[Daves55Sedan]

One other thing; make sure your thermostat isn't falling out of the recess in the back of the "gooseneck" as you install it.
Best way to keep thermostat in the recess is to keep a tight hold on the "gooseneck against the intake manifold until both bolts are "home".
If you are having trouble keeping the thermostat in the "gooseneck" when you tilt it straight up to install it, try a little bit of gasket sealer in the recess of the gooseneck and stick the thermostat on that, but work fast to get the thing bolted on to the intake manifold so that the sealer wont interfere with a tight installation.

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

One other thing; make sure your thermostat isn't falling out of the recess in the back of the "gooseneck" as you install it.
Best way to keep thermostat in the recess is to keep a tight hold on the "gooseneck against the intake manifold until both bolts are "home".
If you are having trouble keeping the thermostat in the "gooseneck" when you tilt it straight up to install it, try a little bit of gasket sealer in the recess of the gooseneck and stick the thermostat on that, but work fast to get the thing bolted on to the intake manifold so that the sealer wont interfere with a tight installation.

I tried the sealer trick on our '60. later tried to remove the thermo and had to pry it out of the housing. used just a couple spots to hold the thermo in the housing. bye-bye thermostat!

[RKS.PA]

Awhile back (May), I needed to replace the thermostat housing on my 312 56' T Bird because I over tightened the nuts (think 15 ft. lbs. is enough) and cracked it. Of course, the one for T Bird is different from the rest of the '56 Ford line and priced accordingly.

Once I got the new one with the proper studs, Kultulz, here on the forum, told us that he uses a rubber band around the thermostat, pulled through the housing and held in place with a pencil across the neck. Once you have everything nicely buttoned down, you cut the rubber band and pull it out. Worked like a champ for me!!!

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by fordor41

I tried the sealer trick on our '60. later tried to remove the thermo and had to pry it out of the housing. used just a couple spots to hold the thermo in the housing. bye-bye thermostat!

I have always used a couple of drops of BLUE RTV Formagasket sealer in the recess on the backside of the "gooseneck". Stick the thermostat on it and let it sit a couple hours and it will stay in the recess during installation back on the manifold. Never had a problem getting old thermostat back off the Gooseneck and scraping two drops of gasket sealer off the recess is a breeze.
Never could find the right length of rubber band that would hold the thermostat in place, but if you could, that is also a great idea.

[1930artdeco]

UPDATE: I really reefed on the clamp and she stop leaking after I rotated it a bit. I am thinking that the screw portion was not letting it seal just enough. So that is now fixed along with the valves-she is quiet now-well mostly.