1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Sorting through parts for the MW engine. I think I have everything I need to startt the assembly work. Head studs may be the first things I add to the block. Then to look at the timing gear cover.
Need to get the seals soaking or wait I may have a new rubber front seal??
I worked on the Allis-Chalmers D17 add on three point hitch ball pivot points this afternoon. Just a small project to accomplish as the weather here was foggy and damp! The shop work area is set at 60 deg F. Floor heat has not kicked on in that area yet but it is close.
Regards,
Chris

[DWG32BB]

I am working on a 32 BB stake bed and can't find any information on where the horn was originally mounted. The best I can come up with was on the finder but where and how?? Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. Dean.

[sugarmaker]

Dean,
To the best of my knowledge it is mounted with a single fastener on the left side of the rad between the rad and the fender. THe horn sets on top of the frame rail/ fender material. You should find on hole and maybe a small dimple there.
We need some pictures of your project. Did you begin a thread yet?
I may have some pictures in my thread about the horn.
David G can help with information also.
By the way welcome to the Ford Barn!
Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Chris, on the head studs - make sure you seal them on the coarse end into the block. I usually use ARP PTFE stud sealer, but there are other brands that work as well. I usually let them "set up" for a day before I put the head on.

BTW, I have a 32B here and will be building it with an OHV conversion next Spring - may need some help from you folks along the way!

[sugarmaker]

Dale,
Yes I had planned to seal the head studs in the block too. Not sure how much help I will be but Kevin at Snyders is a very good recoursce for these engine! He gave us a lot of good basic data on my B engine build update.
Regards,
Chris

[Seth Swoboda]

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Originally Posted by sugarmaker

David,
I will see if Cheryl is interested in attending. Hoping I can talk John Kelly to come along and maybe bring a car too.
Did some inventory and rearranging of 32 B engine parts tonight. Getting my small steel work table cleared for the Tennesee engine.

Folks,
I feel a little lost not being able to have the 32 road worthy. I would go for a ride on a nice fall day like this. Around a couple country blocks on the back roads. Just me and the ragged ol truck!

Regards,
Chris

I see only one solution to this problem. You must buy another V8 Ford so that if one is down for repair you can drive the other for parts running and fun. In fact I have 3 running V8 Fords so as to never be without.

[DavidG]

As Chris notes, like all 1932 Fords, big or little, the horn mounts on top of the left front fender flange with a single bolt and a second hole for a dimple on the underside of the horn bracket to fix the position of the horn. While the brackets for the early motor-driven (ahoogah) horn and later production vibrator horn (beep) differ, they both attach to the top of the fender flange and on through the top of the chassis frame rail in the same location and by the same means.


The photos below show the position of the horn and the two horn brackets with the early motor-driven horn bracket on the left side of the photo.

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
So on the B engine:
- installed the cotter pins in the main cap bolts. This is always a chalange if you havent done one of these. Not much room to get them in place, and aligning the Caslte nuts can be fun too.
Installed the head studs in the block with a little PTF thread sealer. Even though I dont think any of these go into the water jacket area.
So on the block several of the head stud holes had to be heilicoiled at the machine shop. I tried the head and it was a VERY tight fit at the top of the studs. I cleaned out all the holes on the head and had a much better fit of the head down over the studs.
For the head gasket I think I am going to uses the copper one. it fits better than the composite one. I will apply spray copper gasket sealer on both sides of the head gasket install and start the torque sequence.
Regards,
Chris

[DWG32BB]

I am still trying to figure out how to use this site. I will be honest with you I dont know what a thread is yet.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by DWG32BB

I am still trying to figure out how to use this site. I will be honest with you I dont know what a thread is yet.

Think of a 'thread' as an initial post/question that starts the conversation . . . and then folks continue to comment/add additional posts. Just like I'm adding another post that is attached to the bottom of all the others. (A logical grouping)

It is called a 'thread' because it has a topic of discussion (at the top) and all of us are commenting/adding to the story. The story is woven by the combination of all the posts that are added after the initial one.

So, the 'thread' could be considered an expanding textual conversation. The same term is used when you have an eMail system, and a bunch of folks keep responding to the original email person . . . this creates a 'thread' through all the conversation bits.

[sugarmaker]

Dean,
Dale has given a very good explanation of the term " thread" as it pertains here in these types of forum. Lots of folks to help you here too. Dont be afraid to ask. It can be a little overwhelming, but you can do this!
In the header bar for the early V8 portion of the forum (right under the red bar) there is a Thread and Thread starter button or word you can click on to start your own thread.
But your welcome to just tag along here on mine for a while too.
Regards,
Chris

[DWG32BB]

Chris I am bound and determined to learn how to use this site and even post a few pictures of my 32 BB. I have owned the truck for about 26 years and just now have the time and maybe the money to do with it what I want. I want it ALL original. It had been converted to a 12 volt system and had an electric fuel pump. The horn was mounted under the floorboard on the passenger side and was 12 v and not correct other than the sound. The headlights were no longer controlled by the horn rod nor was the horn. The intake was a model A and the carb is still a bit of a mystery . The choke cable that turns the jet on the carb was something probably from a lawnmower as it was able to choke the carb but not turn the jet. The pull cable to the starter was not connected and a close hanger was used. ALL THIS and I loved that truck. The first ride in it my son was 3 and loved to honk the horn. I ask him if he would like to have that horn and he said yes. I bought the horn and the truck came with it. He will get it when I no longer can drive it. He and my older son have quite a collection of cars and the buildings to store them.

[sugarmaker]

Dean,
Awesome story of your truck! Looking forward to your work on getting it back to original. All the things you mentioned I can relate to. I was very fortunate that no one had changed much on mine till I got it. I did go to 12 volt system. Mainly for lights, safety on the roads.
I bet your kids can help you on this site too!
The picture thing can be a puzzel. I place my pictures in a hosting site. (using postimage right now) The size needs to be reduced to about 800 x 450 pixels for easy viewing.
Then they are copied into the thread as needed.
Here is my radiator that I cleaned up and sprayed with flat black:


Folks,
I did make a decision on the engine color. I have three cans of the original Ford Green and that is what the MW engine will get prior to install. The old truck deserves a little bit of bling after 90 years!
A coat of high temp on the exhaust/ intake manifold. Checked for flatness and it looks pretty good! I could use a new better exhaust manifold, mine is very pitted. if there is a good used one out there let me know.


Oil pan clean up:


I used the "best gasket" copper head gasket this time. With a light spray of copper gasket sealer on both sides. Head set on nice and torqued in sequence and steps.


Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
I have a B gasket kit there is a small round thin wall wall washer shaped gasket about .75 dia made of a fiber material. where does this go? I can get a picture. Its about 1/16 thick.
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

Maybe oil pan drain.

[DavidG]

If it is 3/4" o.d., it likely is not for the oil pan drain plug, but so far my head scratching has not yielded its likely use.

[sugarmaker]

BobC, David, folks,
Your clues were good. The dimensions are.75 inch inside diameter. 1.00 inch outside dia. A perfect fit on the oil pan drain plug! Thank you both for the quick response.
I was a little worried after the engine is almost all together!
Pictures coming.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Well, it's a slippery slope, but I am not going to paint any other components than engine related. John helped me clean the block as it was assembled. He also cleaned a lot of the front cross member!
I got a good coating of the Ford green and the block looks pretty darn good for almost 90 years old! Hope it runs good too! It's been a year getting this block brought back into good working order.
I did get a new two piece crank pulley. My old one was pretty worn, where the new front seal would ride. I did use the new style one piece seal rather than the rope (2 piece).
What color is the oil filler tube and the fan assembly ? Will get those cleaned up and ready to go to the paint shop.

Thanks for checking in on me, and the ragged ol truck!
John wants me to get this done so he can do the new brake lines on his 42!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

There's a fairly straight forward rule of thumb for period Ford engine compartment paint colors. Green if it is a casting and black for stampings and forgings, so black for the fan and oil filler tube. There are notable exceptions, however, such as the distributor housing, which was black, not green, and exhaust manifolds, which were normally unpainted.

[sugarmaker]

David,
Thanks for the rule of thumb. That will help!
For sure not going to be a correct show truck but nice to learn the details too.
Regards,
Chris