The Ford Barn

3.6rs · 11-10-2016, 02:27 AM

Can anyone tell me the lenght of the rear shocks (pushed in and pulled out) sold by Mac's ?

Safewiz · 11-10-2016, 07:44 AM

Hope you have better luck with them then a friend of mine who put them on his 29. The car rode worse, and he pulled them off the next day. Could have been just a bad set, but they were new.

3.6rs · 11-10-2016, 07:50 AM

I was not planning to buy the set. I'm just looking for shocks from an existing (small) car that I can use for it. Making the brackets/mounts is not so difficult.

SGT in Ont. · 11-10-2016, 08:05 AM

Mac's shocks are gas filled. Should never be used on a Model A. The Model A does not have enough weight to compress those shocks. Get oil filled shocks if you are going to go that route.

3.6rs · 11-10-2016, 08:08 AM

Thanks for the advise.

Jacksonlll · 11-10-2016, 08:29 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

On the subject of modern shocks: There are a lot of mounting brackets out there that are too weak. Poor design and will fatigue quickly. People don't realize how high the impact loads are. You have to do more that just mount it in place, it has to have guts. I'm sure some of you have friends who have had broken brackets. Just watch what you put on your car.

Terry, NJ · 11-10-2016, 09:17 AM

I concur! I made mine out of 2" X 2" X 1/4" angle iron. This can be seen in my profile pictures under "My A". For shocks, I used Monroe gasmatic #59017 shocks in the rear. I have stock shocks on the front. These shocks were originally for a heavier car and they tend to ride hard. Also, these shocks are the type with a "eye" at both ends.
Terry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

On the subject of modern shocks: There are a lot of mounting brackets out there that are too weak. Poor design and will fatigue quickly. People don't realize how high the impact loads are. You have to do more that just mount it in place, it has to have guts. I'm sure some of you have friends who have had broken brackets. Just watch what you put on your car.

Domino · 11-10-2016, 12:40 PM

The modern shock kit sold by Ken Davis is on my Townsedan and I love them.

SGT in Ont. · 11-10-2016, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

"The Model A does not have enough weight to compress those gas shocks."

Have you actually driven an A with gas shocks?

Here in Dallas a great many of us have modern type gas filled shocks and they ride great! It is well established that gas rides better than oil filled

Actually yes I have. All shocks are not created equal. There are gas shocks out there that just will not compress under a Model A.

CarlG · 11-10-2016, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domino

The modern shock kit sold by Ken Davis is on my Townsedan and I love them.

I have Ken's shocks on my pickup and they work great.

When I ordered these from Ken, he wanted to know what body style I was going to install them on, just so that he could give me the correct shocks for my vehicle. Obviously my pickup is much lighter than would be a Townsedan.

3.6rs · 11-10-2016, 01:29 PM

I measured some things and I will go for oil filled shocks from a 1975-1981 Austin. They will cost me a fraction of the $250-$350 some companies ask for the kit(+ shipping and import taxes for me in EU!).

700rpm · 11-10-2016, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.6rs

I measured some things and I will go for oil filled shocks from a 1975-1981 Austin. They will cost me a fraction of the $250-$350 some companies ask for them (+ shipping and import taxes for me in EU!).

I was going to suggest investigating MGB shocks. I've heard they will work on A's, though I have never seen any.

Sparky · 11-10-2016, 08:20 PM

Getting back to the original question: extended 16-1/2 inches, compressed 10-1/2 inches. This is the body not including the threaded ends. for reference see Monroe 31069

VFRhugh · 11-10-2016, 08:30 PM

+ 1 for Ken Davis

RUNNERBUN · 11-10-2016, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky

Getting back to the original question: extended 16-1/2 inches, compressed 10-1/2 inches. This is the body not including the threaded ends. for reference see Monroe 31069

Congratulations Sparky, good to see someone answering the OP question.

Kahuna · 11-10-2016, 09:04 PM

I have the MGB shocks on the front end of my 32 B. They work great & fit into the original holes in the frame.
I'm sure my 32 is a bit heavier than a Model A, but these shocks look so much better than tube shocks

Pete · 11-10-2016, 11:02 PM

To 3.6rs, no, I can not tell you the length of Mac's shocks but I am going to hijack your thread slightly because I want to and I don't like the way Mac's shocks mount upside down according to good engineering principles.

First off, understand this, I am right and the world is all wrong.
Second off, if you just want to bolt on some chinese crap and say you have tube shocks,
STOP READING HERE.

I have been following this shock problem for many years and absolutely no one (well maybe one) has attacked the problem scientifically.
Everyone who decides he needs or wants tube shocks on his model A decides this shock fits his application or that shock looks good or his buddy says he has gas shocks and they are no good etc etc ADNAUSEUM!!!!!!

Most model A guys do not have access to a shock dyno for testing shocks, SO, what do you do next?
You go by trial and error. YOU DO NOT GO BUY SOME KIT THAT JOE BLOW SAYS IS KEEN.

First, you are going to have to have or have access to some fabrication equipment like a welder of some kind and a bench grinder etc etc. Store bought bolt on brackets and fixtures are very seldom adequate.

You measure the length of shock you need, eye to eye, for your application.
7 inches of travel is more than adequate.
Then you go to Ebay, like it or not, and look for, SPRINT CAR OR MIDGET RACE CAR SHOCKS.
There are usually many of all lengths and sizes. You look for a 7 inch or 9 inch unit with a 2 inch barrel.
They will normally be listed with the compression
rebound rate by a number or 2 numbers.
Here is where it gets important.
You have to have some idea of what kind of ride you want and this will come from experience ONLY.
If you want a very soft chair car ride, look for a pair of shocks with low numbers like 2 or 3 for compression and 4 or 5 for rebound. Higher numbers equal stiffer.

DO NOT be in a hurry to buy the first ones you see. Remember, you are in the research mode and the first ones you get, you may not like. The thing is, they are used and they are cheap so if you don't like them, resell them or trash them.
After you go through a few sets, you will be knowledgeable on what works on your car for you.
Then, you will be a GURU and people will flock to you for advice that you can charge them any rate you think is appropriate.

One more IMPORTANT thing.
Race shocks mount BODY UP. This is to reduce unsprung weight. While this is not too important on a vintage street vehicle, a shock is designed to operate in one orientation. They don't work too well upside down.

One last thought.
It does NOT matter what a shock is filled with. Nitrogen, oil, air, or oat meal, the only thing that matters is the compression rebound rate and the ONLY way to know that is either a shock dyno or the seat of your pants.

Capt Quahog · 11-11-2016, 01:44 AM

Had thought for a time of converting our driver 31' Ford over to modern shocks. Though supposedly overhauled, the original tin can type shocks really are mostly worthless. Have owned various Model A Ford cars over the years with and without shock absorbers. To be honest, I have not been able to discern the difference in ride quality. This car has what appears to be NEW rear springs. Anyway it stands, the current A Model Ford rides hard and springy.

3.6rs · 11-11-2016, 09:06 AM

I started to fabricate the rear shock mounts.
In fact this is an easy job + some other bolts.
I don't know why they ask several hundreds of dollars for the set, and most of all ; Im satisfied to do the work by myself.
Just waiting for the Mini shocks to arrive and then bent the mounts in the right shape.

updraught · 11-11-2016, 06:48 PM

Keep the photos coming. It will be interesting to see how it works out.

I'm with Pete on tuning. Small changes can make a big difference to ride.
Getting everything working just right makes driving enjoyable.

I've been looking at options for the front and trying to find brackets that look good and shocks that would work (small resistance on compression and adjustable) and it was going to cost a fair bit anyway, so I bit the bullet and bought two Stipe shocks.

Not sure what I'll do with the rear yet. It's not so critical.

11-10-2016, 07:44 AM	#2
Safewiz Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: South Florida Posts: 147	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Hope you have better luck with them then a friend of mine who put them on his 29. The car rode worse, and he pulled them off the next day. Could have been just a bad set, but they were new. __________________ Coral Springs Florida

11-10-2016, 07:50 AM	#3
3.6rs Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Belgistan (formerly known as Belgium) Posts: 573	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style I was not planning to buy the set. I'm just looking for shocks from an existing (small) car that I can use for it. Making the brackets/mounts is not so difficult.

11-10-2016, 08:05 AM	#4
SGT in Ont. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Milton, Ontario, Canada Posts: 101	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Mac's shocks are gas filled. Should never be used on a Model A. The Model A does not have enough weight to compress those shocks. Get oil filled shocks if you are going to go that route.

11-10-2016, 08:29 AM	#6
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) On the subject of modern shocks: There are a lot of mounting brackets out there that are too weak. Poor design and will fatigue quickly. People don't realize how high the impact loads are. You have to do more that just mount it in place, it has to have guts. I'm sure some of you have friends who have had broken brackets. Just watch what you put on your car.

11-10-2016, 12:40 PM	#8
Domino Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 412	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style The modern shock kit sold by Ken Davis is on my Townsedan and I love them.

11-10-2016, 08:08 AM	#5
3.6rs Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Belgistan (formerly known as Belgium) Posts: 573	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Thanks for the advise.

11-10-2016, 01:29 PM	#11
3.6rs Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Belgistan (formerly known as Belgium) Posts: 573	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style I measured some things and I will go for oil filled shocks from a 1975-1981 Austin. They will cost me a fraction of the $250-$350 some companies ask for the kit(+ shipping and import taxes for me in EU!). Last edited by 3.6rs; 11-23-2016 at 05:17 AM.

11-10-2016, 08:20 PM	#13
Sparky Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 649	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Getting back to the original question: extended 16-1/2 inches, compressed 10-1/2 inches. This is the body not including the threaded ends. for reference see Monroe 31069

11-10-2016, 08:30 PM	#14
VFRhugh Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 177	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style + 1 for Ken Davis

11-10-2016, 09:04 PM	#16
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style I have the MGB shocks on the front end of my 32 B. They work great & fit into the original holes in the frame. I'm sure my 32 is a bit heavier than a Model A, but these shocks look so much better than tube shocks

11-10-2016, 11:02 PM	#17
Pete Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,407	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style To 3.6rs, no, I can not tell you the length of Mac's shocks but I am going to hijack your thread slightly because I want to and I don't like the way Mac's shocks mount upside down according to good engineering principles. First off, understand this, I am right and the world is all wrong. Second off, if you just want to bolt on some chinese crap and say you have tube shocks, STOP READING HERE. I have been following this shock problem for many years and absolutely no one (well maybe one) has attacked the problem scientifically. Everyone who decides he needs or wants tube shocks on his model A decides this shock fits his application or that shock looks good or his buddy says he has gas shocks and they are no good etc etc ADNAUSEUM!!!!!! Most model A guys do not have access to a shock dyno for testing shocks, SO, what do you do next? You go by trial and error. YOU DO NOT GO BUY SOME KIT THAT JOE BLOW SAYS IS KEEN. First, you are going to have to have or have access to some fabrication equipment like a welder of some kind and a bench grinder etc etc. Store bought bolt on brackets and fixtures are very seldom adequate. You measure the length of shock you need, eye to eye, for your application. 7 inches of travel is more than adequate. Then you go to Ebay, like it or not, and look for, SPRINT CAR OR MIDGET RACE CAR SHOCKS. There are usually many of all lengths and sizes. You look for a 7 inch or 9 inch unit with a 2 inch barrel. They will normally be listed with the compression rebound rate by a number or 2 numbers. Here is where it gets important. You have to have some idea of what kind of ride you want and this will come from experience ONLY. If you want a very soft chair car ride, look for a pair of shocks with low numbers like 2 or 3 for compression and 4 or 5 for rebound. Higher numbers equal stiffer. DO NOT be in a hurry to buy the first ones you see. Remember, you are in the research mode and the first ones you get, you may not like. The thing is, they are used and they are cheap so if you don't like them, resell them or trash them. After you go through a few sets, you will be knowledgeable on what works on your car for you. Then, you will be a GURU and people will flock to you for advice that you can charge them any rate you think is appropriate. One more IMPORTANT thing. Race shocks mount BODY UP. This is to reduce unsprung weight. While this is not too important on a vintage street vehicle, a shock is designed to operate in one orientation. They don't work too well upside down. One last thought. It does NOT matter what a shock is filled with. Nitrogen, oil, air, or oat meal, the only thing that matters is the compression rebound rate and the ONLY way to know that is either a shock dyno or the seat of your pants.

11-11-2016, 01:44 AM	#18
Capt Quahog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Barren windswept mountain somewhere in bleak Northeastern Pennsylvania Posts: 294	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Had thought for a time of converting our driver 31' Ford over to modern shocks. Though supposedly overhauled, the original tin can type shocks really are mostly worthless. Have owned various Model A Ford cars over the years with and without shock absorbers. To be honest, I have not been able to discern the difference in ride quality. This car has what appears to be NEW rear springs. Anyway it stands, the current A Model Ford rides hard and springy. __________________ I wouldn't be so paranoid if people weren't plotting against me all the time

11-11-2016, 06:48 PM	#20
updraught Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Australia Posts: 1,969	Re: Shock absorbers - modern style Keep the photos coming. It will be interesting to see how it works out. I'm with Pete on tuning. Small changes can make a big difference to ride. Getting everything working just right makes driving enjoyable. I've been looking at options for the front and trying to find brackets that look good and shocks that would work (small resistance on compression and adjustable) and it was going to cost a fair bit anyway, so I bit the bullet and bought two Stipe shocks. Not sure what I'll do with the rear yet. It's not so critical.