Head Gasket

[Smitty]

What are folks running for a head gasket with Snyder 5.5:1 head?
Model A copper, Model B copper, Model B Premium, Model A Premium?
In reality what works and what does not?

Thanks, Steve

[newshirt]

I use Synders: B-6051-M. It's the one they recommend.

I've only got 1,000 miles on it, but it seems fine so far.

[Ray64]

I got 6000 on mine with their recomended one. No probs yet though i did have to tork 4 times 1st. 1000 miles but all has been well since

[mystic122468]

Make sure you use some of this when you re-install, it's AWESOME stuff!
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...c_Compound.htm

[Loyd Nix]

Go with Snyder's recommendation.

[CarlG]

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Originally Posted by newshirt

I use Synders: B-6051-M. It's the one they recommend.

I've only got 1,000 miles on it, but it seems fine so far.

Ditto on the gasket AND the 1,000 miles.

[Ed in Maine]

I always use a copper head gasket and Permatex Head Gasket spray sealer. Spray the block, both sides of the gasket and the cylinder head. While not a complicated job, changing a head gasket is a pain and the head gaskets seem to be getting more and more expensive. Also, re-torque the nuts OFTEN. On initial startup I have found that the torque can fall off by 10 ft-lbs after just 10 minutes of running time. I would re-torque after 5 minutes of running time and several times thereafter as the car comes up to operating temperature. Ed

[Keith True]

If using Snyders composite head gasket,DO NOT use any kind of sealant.The sealant is provided on the gasket already.If you use anything it will act as a lube when installing and as you tighten the head the metal fire rings will be squeezed right off the composite material.I have fixed two that the owners had blow out.They were complaining about the quality of the gasket,come to find out they both had used a spray on sealer.They both had done it the old way,like you might with a metal gasket and ignored the instructions of the people who made them.John Deere uses a head gasket made of the same material,they are very specific about it,a dab of shellac around a couple of oil holes,but other than that,clean and dry.Those little red rings of sealer can't do their job if you put something between the block and the rings.Try removing a head after one of those has been installed correctly for a while.I wanted to install a BF head I had on my truck.I took the nuts off,screwed the eyebolts in two plug holes,and tried to lift.No go.I hooked the eyes to the chainfalls,picked the front of the truck up a couple of inches,and left it.It slowly gave way overnight.In the morning the head was up 1/4 inch,an hour later it was up 1/2 inch,and I could finally pry it off.One of the ones I fixed had the gasket blow out while he was installing it.He sprayed it with some head gasket sealer,started torquing,and a strip blew right out the side.Cork pan gaskets will do the same thing if sealed all around.The gasket will squirt out before the lock washers compress.If you do go with the Snyders look at it closely.I had one that missed the composite material when the fire ring was compressed.Defective,not a design problem.Also,set the head gasket on the head and block and make sure there are no protrusions of the fire ring into the combustion chamber.If there are they will burn and blow.This was a common occurance on the GM 5.7 diesels.In that case the FelPro gasket is not the one to use.The FelPro ring sticks into the combustion chamber and cooks right off.I don't know why they even still make the gaskets,but they do.We would change the gaskets to Victor Reinz .030 over and the gaskets would go the life of the car.

[Al Bass]

I installed a Snyders 5.5 head and used there gaskit and torked the head at least 4 times over several days (before first fireup)while I was assembling the rest of the car and every couple of days after driving till the tork stayed were it belonged and have 4,543 miles on it with no problems

[Dick Deegan]

Model B Premium with about 3500 miles. No problems.

Dick