The Ford Barn

Will N · 10-11-2023, 10:32 AM

Looking for any tips and tricks on how to remove the horn button and headlight lever from an original '29 horn rod in order to have the button and lever replated. Thanks!

JayJay · 10-11-2023, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will N

Looking for any tips and tricks on how to remove the horn button and headlight lever from an original '29 horn rod in order to have the button and lever replated. Thanks!

Will - I don't know if the 29 is different from the 30, but on my 30 horn rod I went underneath, carefully straightened the four bent over tabs and then pushed out the ring. It was a tight fit. Button and spring came out. I had to unsolder the wire at the bottom to get the horn contact at the top out, then that left the bare light rod and handle. Then off to replating.

JayJay · 10-11-2023, 10:53 AM

Here are some pictures I found. Hope these help.

bobbader · 10-11-2023, 07:35 PM

You may want to check with the plater. Yes, you do need to remove the horn button and bezel and strip out the wiring from the rod. But, I'm not sure you need to totally remove the switch lever plate from the rod to have it plated. If the plate is tightly swaged on the rod, you may want to think twice about undoing that area. I believe the plater can isolate the plate without plating anything but the very upper tip of the rod. I say this not from my own experience but from a chance I had several years ago to buy out the inventory of a person who restored many different original parts. He had died and there were still many items "in process" when he passed. Horn/light rod assemblies were among the items I noticed. I noticed because I had always wondered about the process for doing this. There were several rods with freshly plated switch lever plates still attached to the rods, waiting for the wiring, horn button, and bezel to be assembled. See what your plater suggests. Good luck.

JayJay · 10-11-2023, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbader

You may want to check with the plater. Yes, you do need to remove the horn button and bezel and strip out the wiring from the rod. But, I'm not sure you need to totally remove the switch lever plate from the rod to have it plated. If the plate is tightly swaged on the rod, you may want to think twice about undoing that area. I believe the plater can isolate the plate without plating anything but the very upper tip of the rod....There were several rods with freshly plated switch lever plates still attached to the rods, waiting for the wiring, horn button, and bezel to be assembled. See what your plater suggests. Good luck.

I did not remove the lever plate from the rod when I sent it to the plating shop, and they didn't seem to have any particular heartache with that. I haven't gotten it back yet so I don't know whether they plated only the top or the entire length. Either would be fine with me.

Will N · 10-12-2023, 10:49 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thank you all for you insights!

Brentwood Bob · 10-12-2023, 11:25 AM

Consider annealing the tabs before any further bending.

Mel Gross · 10-12-2023, 12:18 PM

Why not buy a A3617 repair kit from one of the Model A parts suppliers?
Kit comes with chrome button - chrome ring - spring - and contact positioner.
No need to worry about bending the tabs and breaking them.

Then the only plating that would need to be done is the actual head that is
swedge to the rod.

JayJay · 10-12-2023, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mel Gross

Why not buy a A3617 repair kit from one of the Model A parts suppliers?
Kit comes with chrome button - chrome ring - spring - and contact positioner.
No need to worry about bending the tabs and breaking them.

Then the only plating that would need to be done is the actual head that is
swedge to the rod.

Well, for one reason, the originals were nickel plated, not chrome. That's why I went the route of replating.

katy · 10-13-2023, 07:30 AM

When I re-assembled the horn button part, 3 of the 4 tabs broke off, so I just soldered the stubs to the lever part.
It would be nice if the vendors sold the "horn button hold down" part separately.

Will N · 10-14-2023, 11:29 AM

Thanks again. I was concerned about the tabs breaking and the hint about annealing them makes sense.

JayJay · 10-14-2023, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will N

Thanks again. I was concerned about the tabs breaking and the hint about annealing them makes sense.

Anneal before you send the part for plating, otherwise when you heat it up it will discolor your fresh new nickel.

10-11-2023, 10:32 AM	#1
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,100	'29 Horn rod restoration Looking for any tips and tricks on how to remove the horn button and headlight lever from an original '29 horn rod in order to have the button and lever replated. Thanks!

10-11-2023, 07:35 PM	#4
bobbader Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, NY Posts: 271	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration You may want to check with the plater. Yes, you do need to remove the horn button and bezel and strip out the wiring from the rod. But, I'm not sure you need to totally remove the switch lever plate from the rod to have it plated. If the plate is tightly swaged on the rod, you may want to think twice about undoing that area. I believe the plater can isolate the plate without plating anything but the very upper tip of the rod. I say this not from my own experience but from a chance I had several years ago to buy out the inventory of a person who restored many different original parts. He had died and there were still many items "in process" when he passed. Horn/light rod assemblies were among the items I noticed. I noticed because I had always wondered about the process for doing this. There were several rods with freshly plated switch lever plates still attached to the rods, waiting for the wiring, horn button, and bezel to be assembled. See what your plater suggests. Good luck.

10-12-2023, 10:49 AM	#6
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,100	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thank you all for you insights!

10-12-2023, 11:25 AM	#7
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,246	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration Consider annealing the tabs before any further bending.

10-12-2023, 12:18 PM	#8
Mel Gross Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 909	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration Why not buy a A3617 repair kit from one of the Model A parts suppliers? Kit comes with chrome button - chrome ring - spring - and contact positioner. No need to worry about bending the tabs and breaking them. Then the only plating that would need to be done is the actual head that is swedge to the rod.

10-13-2023, 07:30 AM	#10
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,046	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration When I re-assembled the horn button part, 3 of the 4 tabs broke off, so I just soldered the stubs to the lever part. It would be nice if the vendors sold the "horn button hold down" part separately. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

10-14-2023, 11:29 AM	#11
Will N Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 1,100	Re: '29 Horn rod restoration Thanks again. I was concerned about the tabs breaking and the hint about annealing them makes sense.