Kwik-way LBM

[CA Victoria]

Bought a Kwik-way LBM without cutters. Kwik-way does not supply the OEM parts any more. Any tips on where to find replacement cutters for line boring the block for inserts and facing?

added: the tools are 5/16 diameter. I will be starting with A mains, I do not have a pattern to go by.

[KR500]

If you can find what I believe are 5/16 or 3/8 perf blanks, don't recall what Kwik Way bar bits diameter is, you can have a machinist, tool maker or cutter grinder put the various radii on the bits with angle relief. The Ford A, B, and V-8 use different corner radii in the mains. I have made some of my own years ago and would have to check them to be able to help you more.

[Kurt in NJ]

Here is one place to look--
http://laceymwilliams.com/ts6-2.html

[CA Victoria]

Kurt,
You are my new Super Hero!
I'll post my findings here so another Barner' will be able to trace the info back to the Kwik-way LBM cutter.
On the Lacey M Williams site you suggested there is a selection for Tooling, Page 2 shows the Kwik-way line bore tooling. The link below is page 2. They only stock he LW-1176 which is 3" long and can be cut to length. They are $125 each and have a six sided replaceable cutter.
http://laceymwilliams.com/ts6-2.html

[Dan McEachern]

Tim- I don't think you will have enough room betwen your bar and the finished diameter to get that inserted tool in there. Dan

[James Rogers]

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Tim, like Dan says, the 2" tool won't fit. I have researched this extensively and finding cutters is almost impossible. There is just not enough room to fit it in the bore since it is for a min. 2" bore and the bore diameter for inserts is 1.770-1. LW does not make a tool to fit under this size so the Model A engine is out. I bought a 1" centerless ground 1" bar and adapted it to my bar to bore Model T engines and could use the 2" cutter for Model A's with it but I would be afraid the deflection of the bar would be detrimental to a good job. You need to find some cutters, one HS steel and one carbide, to have duplicated by a tool maker. I have a couple of broken ones but don't think they would help since the cutting edge is what is broken. You could also, use the 2" cutter if you grind a flat on the bar to provide more room for the end of the cutter with the cutter. Probably would need about .125 relief with your 1.250 bar.

[Randall]

Or you could buy 3 sq tool bit holders and install them in your bar and buy tool cutters any where!

[t-head]

If they are in fact .312" and round, I have bought carbide-tipped cutters from MSC and they work well in both my portable align boring machine, Tobin Arp align boring machine and and the rod lathe.

[CA Victoria]

Enabling the use of standard tools makes the most sense, how is a square hole bored into the bar?

Been doing some research, broaching is limited to about 7/8-1" depth.
Water Jet seems the way to go.
still searching......................

[Randall]

Ca look in MSC catalog,I think thats where I got mine could have been Mcmaster carr or enco,been a long time since I did mine,they are round on the outside sq on inside,you bore the bar out and press the inserts in not a big deal. I think this is it http://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?p...alogs/big-book

[Terry,NJ]

Use a square hole bushing, Bushings are made with square holes just for boring tools. Any machinist supply house should be able to send you a couple at nominal cost.
Terry

[Rowdy]

Kurt

Thanks for posting a source. If you know anyone that has Kwik-way LBM storage box and parted out what is left of their machine let me know as I may at some point be in the market for one. The storage box for mine was missing when I bought it and so far I have not found the dimensions and such to make a replica. Thanks Rod

[CA Victoria]

The tool pictured is made by Dupont Minute Man, I spoke to their tech dept. today and they are only rated for a 1" deep hole (w/5/16" bore). The bushing are a good idea.

[Randall]

you can't do it with a broach!

[Randall]

Originally Posted by forever4

Why not, that is how they were originally done on mine?

you must of had some speical jig,all the broach I ever saw only cut key ways,I would like to see it done with a broach!!

[CA Victoria]

I have located a company that can do it with a CNC water jet cutter. The two broach cutters that I found are not recommended for over 1" depth. The tech guy I mentioned above stated that with their tool the additional pressure needed to cut through greater than the recommended depth may strip the teeth out of the tool. The cost to do the water jet is about the same price as the tool with out the risk.......

[Kurt in NJ]

when I made the KRW bar adjustable I didn't know i couldn't do it ---first I filed the hole close to 1/4, then i made the end of a 1/4 lathe blank flat on the end and pushed it through --i had lapped the sides some to have a slight taper, it peeled the last bit of metal out of the hole ---

The top row are the cutters that came with the Aamco 400, they measure .369 diameter, the bottom row are for the LBM, some have seen some "expert" sharpening, the diameter is .308 on the ones I measured

Both the Aamco and the Kwik way have the same diameter boring bars, the Aamco has a nice adjustable centering fixture, and nice small centering cones for cam bearings

A wood fixture and a cheap whizzer could be made to put the groove in some prehard rod to make your own cutters---

[Terry,NJ]

If worse comes to worse, You can file it with a 1/4" square file. Broaches aren't cheap!
I've made a few of them to broach silicon carbide Dies and they can be a PITA to use. Then we had to file them to get the ragged edges off and create clearance for the blanks to pass through. You wouldn't have this with a boring bar
Terry

[clinton perry]

Ca. Go to your nearest Mill supply vendor. Buy drill blanks (jobber length) the size that you need, take to your machinist and have him grind the configuration for your cutting need. Put flat on top. For set screw to nest against. Cut to length and go. Very inexpensive and good tool steel. Good luck, Clinton

[Terry,NJ]

The Silicon Carbide dies that I had to make the broaches for one inch thick.The broach was .187 if I remember correctly. I've still got a couple of old ones out in my toolbox. As was said, we made them out of Drill Blanks. The first cut (tooth) was just a little squared to the pilot hole and became progressively squarer as it approached the last tooth, by .002. The last tooth left a .093 corner radius. BTW, All sockets are broached on both ends (I/2" Square drive end and the 12 pt driven bolt end)
Terry