4 Model A coil qustions

[russcc]

Is the coil in the photo a Model A one. It is on a pretty much original late '31 Deluxe roadster that was stored in a barn since the early 50's

Is there someone who can load test the performance of a coil, and where would you likely find them ?

Can the Model A coil be rebuilt/rewound like some of the EV8 ones.

If they can't be redone, are there any US made replacements, and if not which one is the best bet. I hear there is NAPA # that seems to be well thought of.

Thank you.

[MAG]

Yes, Looks like a original Ford coil.
Years ago there was someone rebuilding them but I have lost the info.
Someone else may chime in with the contact.
P/N 16860 New Script Coil-Bratton's. about $50. 800-255-1929

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I can load test them for you with my Tester. Click HERE to see what it is and how it works.

John Holland was rebuilding them, ...until he ran out of windings to install in them. I have talked about opening a couple up to see what is involved however I can never seem to find that "spare moment".

[Joop]

I think this is a 1932 coil as it has the Ford logo in a circle.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/modelbignitioncoils.htm

Where are you located?

[Mike V. Florida]

Coils

[russcc]

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Hi Fordbarners, thank you for your responses. I will see if there is someone local that can test coils. I am in Mass.

[Kevin in NJ]

The V8 coils are not rebuilt. A person found that there should not be much to go wrong with them and puzzles over why they fail. I have seen NOS coils that did not work.

The guy thought it might be environmental. So he alternated putting a coil in a vacuum and then nitrogen. The coil came back working 100%. This only works for the bakelite cased V8 coils. The A coils, I guess, fail for windings shorting out internally.

You can build your own coil tester, follow the link: coil tester.

To test a coil you need to make it spark. You adjust the gap till the spark is not able to jump the gap and back off. Then you just let current flow through the coil. As it warms up the spark will weaken some. If it weakens a lot them the coil is bad. On the plus side, it is fun playing with sparks

The coil comes apart easy. The top is soldered on the can. So some heat and it comes off. The primary and secondary wires are also soldered. You need to heat up the terminals to get the wires off. While I have not proceeded on this, at one point my brother found a small 6 volt epoxy coil. Its outside dimension was a bit large for the can, but an Xray showed there was plenty of room to cut down the epoxy and slip it in an original can.

Have fun playing.

[jmeckel]

If you are looking for a new coil I recommend the epoxy filled flamethrower, very hot and you do not have the issues of coil over heat due to inverted operation. Other new coils are oil filled and made to operate with wire lead outs or if you want to call it the top pointing up. Amazon sells them, there are a few different types so be sure to get the right one for your setup, 6 volt, epoxy filled is what I use.

[Tom Wesenberg]

An easy way to identify an original Ford coil is the mounting bracket is spot welded to the coil, and the mounting feet have an arc. The reason for the arc is so the top and bottom edges touch the firewall and keep the coil from rocking at the mounting screws, which could lead to cracks radiating out from the firewall mounting holes.

BTW, every original coil I have bought at swap meets has tested good.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Note the "SX" logo on the front of the coil below the bracket. In the vicinity of the logo there will be an alphanumeric date code stamped in. It could be on either side of the coil or closer to the front. It will consist of a letter and one or two numbers. Can you tell me what it is? Thanks...