Restoration help

[1stford]

Hey guys. I'm working to get this truck done and I have a few questions that I need some help on.

I'm having some issues with these splash pans. I think I'm one short and I can't figure out where they go, maybe even missing some pieces, wondering if they are the right ones?

The other issue is this rubber bumper gasket is not fitting correct. I believe that everything is lined up and it's not an install issue? These are reproduction pieces.

[51 MERC-CT]

Are the bumper brackets lifted as high as they will go?
If not loosen the mount bolts an lift to see if that improves the situation.

[rotorwrench]

What model are we looking at here?

[V8ER]

The smaller pan (the upper one in the picture) goes on the right side of the engine between the engine and the frame. It attaches to the frame and bends around the starter. Don't be surprised if you have to bend it to get it to fit around the exhaust pipe. It should be black. You do not have the left side engine pan.

[V8ER]

The bumper arm gasket is upside down.

[Talkwrench]

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Mine does the same . I have one 35 guard and a 36 guard : o 0

[Ken/Alabama]

Does the other side look like this? As mentioned try swapping sides with them.

[1stford]

It's a 36 truck. The other side looks the same as far as the gap goes. The center pan that appears to go under the radiator will not fit properly?

[1stford]

So I'm just going to use this thread as my general "question" thread so I don't have to start a different one every time. This week I'm going to put the engine in my truck. I've never installed a flat head and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions or things that I must do or not do, basically I'm looking for experience here. I'm going to post some pictures of what I've got. A couple of questions I do have.

1936 truck
I believe it's a 1949 8ba engine
I'm thinking 1939 transmission
Is there torque specs for the fly wheel, pressure plate and bell housing? Will 1936 engine mounts work with this application.

[1stford]

So I was going to hook up the linkage from the clutch pedal to transmission and it seems like maybe I've got something wrong. As you can see the rod does not go strait to the clutch release pedal. Any ideas on what is causing this issue? Thanks

[34coupe]

wrong clutch arm, you can heat and bend the arm so it lines up. Dave

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 34coupe

wrong clutch arm, you can heat and bend the arm so it lines up. Dave

I just jumped on there internet and it looks like I can buy different clutch arms for it. I saw van pelts had some. Maybe that should be my route.

[chap52]

Call in your order to Van Pelts. Mac is a great guy and full of valuable info. Always ready to answer your questions.

[nelsb01]

The center pan goes under the front of the grille. Line the d-nuts up with the bottom edge of the inside of the grille. You are missing 2 L brackets that hold the back corners to the frame. These can be made. Most of these were bent over the years, so some fitting will be needed. It's one of the challenges of putting it back together.

[Don Rogers]

1st Ford, Here's a photo of a 35/36 clutch/brake linkage. Your clutch pedal assembly is the culprit

[Bored&Stroked]

It looks like you already have the transmission and maybe the engine in the car. I like to bolt them together and install them as one unit whenever I can - just makes it a lot easier to get the transmission input shaft and clutch disk aligned. The standard torque specs for the flywheel and clutch disc are on the internet - VanPelt probably has them listed. I usually use red lock-tight on my clutch plate bolts - maybe that is just me, but I like the little extra added insurance. Make sure you have the correct 'shoulder bolts' for the clutch plate and flywheel - they are specific to the task and available from a variety of early Ford Parts folks. On the back of the transmission, put a lot of 'lubriplate' type grease all over the u-joint, inside the round 1/2 ball cover and all over the outside of it. I pack quite a bit of grease on the u-joint itself . . . usually using a plastic bag to work it into the rollers are much as possible.

I'm not an expert of the water pumps and motor mounts - though it appears you have the later 'truck pumps', so I believe they just bolt right up (with correct motor mount pads, bolts, etc). I know on 34 frames, we used some specially made u-bend type pieces that went above the vibration motor-mount pads - to align the later pumps to the 34 frame hole positions . . . not sure if you need something similar in 36? Anybody know?

[Karl Wescott]

Regarding the bumper grommets, these are sometimes mistakenly sold as 1935-37. 1935 fenders have a full bead across the bottom of the bumper bracket opening and use the same grommet as a passenger car. 1936-37 Ford slotted the fender and changed the grommet to one that is pickup only. If there is a Ford based part number it should begin with 67-, if it begins with 48- its the earlier style.

[1stford]

Can anyone tell me:
1). Did 1936 ford truck come from factory with rear bumper

2). What fender support brackets go on the front and rear fenders of a 1936 ford truck.

thanks so much.
Jeremie

[Tinker]

In 1936 they didn't have hydro brakes! Little heat bending of the arm and/or rod modification will get you there.

Bumper yes.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Tinker

In 1936 they didn't have hydro brakes! Little heat bending of the arm and/or rod modification will get you there.

Bumper yes.

Thanks for the input on this. I've got another questions about parts house. Normally I use Van pelt or Roy Nacewiz for everything I can. Drake for the trim parts but a lot of what i"m looking for is not available from any of them. I found everything I need on Mac's site. Is there any difference in the products Macs offers VS say drake or are they all selling the same thing?

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thanks for the input on this. I've got another questions about parts house. Normally I use Van pelt or Roy Nacewiz for everything I can. Drake for the trim parts but a lot of what i"m looking for is not available from any of them. I found everything I need on Mac's site. Is there any difference in the products Macs offers VS say drake?

If you are asking me in particular. I find Roy as a great source and very helpful. Roy offers a lot of specific hard to find things and if not he'll point you to somewhere.

I've used all three for some specialty bolts or parts needed.

Can't say on overall. buy what you can from whom offers. Do some research. Pretty amazing that a lot of this stuff is even available, even if less then ford built.

or build it. original stuff is best but takes time to find and not always cost effective.

[1stford]

I'm sorry I should have been more specific. I need some items like door handles, hood ornaments, fender braces, and things like that. Drake is sold out as well as carpenter but I"ve found it on Macs site. Are all of those folks selling the same parts, any reason Macs (not van pelt) is not just as good/or the same stuff as drake or carpenter?

[Tinker]

I can't answer that specially. You might find that a lot of the parts from every vender comes in a vintage parts package. They are all different in what is best. Search or ask. Ordered a lot from macs over the yrs for projects. Sacramento ford too for wiring. Drake for window kits. Carpenter for some stuff. snyders for model a stuff.

Put a ad up for ford parts here. might get lucky. I like original parts If i can find them.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I can't answer that specially. You might find that a lot of the parts from every vender comes in a vintage parts package. They are all different in what is best. Search or ask. Ordered a lot from macs over the yrs for projects. Sacramento ford too for wiring. Drake for window kits. Carpenter for some stuff. snyders for model a stuff.

Put a ad up for ford parts here. might get lucky. I like original parts If i can find them.

Thank you

[1stford]

Any suggestions on where to buy a new windshield frame in chrome for 36 truck. Drake does not have any and no one else seems to either.
Thanks

[Charlie ny]

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1st,
If you are using a '39 pedal ass'y get a '39 release arm. If you check the repop '39 arm that BD offers you will see that using the '39 arm will make your align-
ment issue vanish. The arm on your trans is a '35 - '36 which is too short to satisfy
the geometry presented using '39 pedals.
Charlie ny

[V8COOPMAN]

This picture shows the "91A" 1939 arm that Charlie NY speaks of above. The arm on the far right is the one you need. DD

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

1st,
If you are using a '39 pedal ass'y get a '39 release arm. If you check the repop '39 arm that BD offers you will see that using the '39 arm will make your align-
ment issue vanish. The arm on your trans is a '35 - '36 which is too short to satisfy
the geometry presented using '39 pedals.
Charlie ny

Thanks guy I appreciate the feed back big time. I ordered a 39 arm and can't wait to see my problem disappear.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thanks for the input on this. I've got another questions about parts house. Normally I use Van pelt or Roy Nacewiz for everything I can. Drake for the trim parts but a lot of what i"m looking for is not available from any of them. I found everything I need on Mac's site. Is there any difference in the products Macs offers VS say drake or are they all selling the same thing?

Many parts have only one primary supplier, on those everyone will have the same part. Other parts have multiple suppliers and there is often significant quality and price differences, you have to trust the vendor to make the best choice for you. Mac's is mostly a reseller (they do have a few items they are primary suppliers on).

[1stford]

So I'm at the point where I'm going to start on my electrical. I've not ever done a car this far back but want to keep the appearance of original most likely using 12v. I have all new wiring harnesses for everything and and a voltage regulator, that's the extent of my electrical parts. Just needing some direction ok what else I will need and where to get an original look 12v battery. (Does it go in the engine compartment or under floorboard for a 1936 truck.
Thank you.

[1stford]

In the picture below there is a black pipe coming out of the intake down the front of the block and it's supposed to go between the frame and oil pan. There is not enough room and I'm wondering if anyone has had the same problem, can I just cap that off and not run anything out of there? The motor, I think, is a 49.

[Terry,OH]

Look at the 39 transmission lever

[Bored&Stroked]

Given that you're putting a late engine in an early car/truck - the breathing systems were completely different. The original 49-53 'road draft' setup was a somewhat crude crankcase ventilation system - it does nothing at low speed and kind of work at higher speeds (hence the term 'road draft'). It is definitely better than the earlier 36-48 systems, but not by much. With today's ethanol enhanced fuels, we get even more water vapor in the crankcases than back in the day - so adding a PCV isn't a bad idea.

You have a couple choices:

1) Fabricate an original 'extension' that routes the tube through the engine/frame challenges and hopefully ends up in about the same configuration as stock. It needs to come out in about the same manner as stock (with the end done the same way) - such that "road drafting" actually happens.

2) Replace the road draft system with a PCV system. You replace the road draft tube and plumb in a PCV valve where it used to go. I believe you already have a large vacuum port in a stock manifold - this is where the vacuum side of the pcv goes. There are guys that make a 'kit' for this for 49-53 setups . . .but is is EASY to do yourself.

The vacuum source should be below the carb and hopefully in an area there ALL cylinders pull vacuum from it. I'm not sure if a stock manifold has a port that does this? It is good for the PCV vacuum to be distributed to all cylinders . . . such that some don't run a bit leaner than others. One way is to make about a 1" spacer under the carb - with an open plenum in it . . . with a 1/4" NPT port in it.

Lots of ways to do it - just make sure the PCV setup is plumbed as a PCV should - as I've seen all sorts of goofy setups done by folks who don't understand how PCVs work!

[1stford]

I posted on another thread but wanted to see if anyone has a 36 ford truck steering wheel for sale?

[1stford]

I've posted this same question on my truck tread as well.

So I'm stuck with some wiring issues. Wanted to put it on paper and see if anyone can weigh in on this with some thoughts. Heres where I am:

I currently have new wiring harnesses to fit 1936 truck.
I currently have master cylinder under the floor board
The foot starter switch has been removed and there is a start button on the dash.
Truck has a two wire generator (49 8BA)

So heres my thoughts. The new 36 harness wont work because
A). It is set up for 1 wire generator
B). My generator Needs a voltage Regulator
C). Needs starter button and solenoid wiring.
D). Harness does not have the brake light for master cylinder?

So I'd like to keep the 6 volt battery as I see that Optima makes one that is about 3.5 inches wide so I think it will still fit with the master cylinder?

Didn't know if going to Tyree harris and just having him back me a harness that would accommodate everything I need?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas you have.
1stford is online now Report Post

[1stford]

Having a generator belt problem. Motor is 8BA with everything stock on it. I'm trying to get the belt that goes on the generator, water pumps and bottom pulley and having no success. Is there a trick to getting that one the generator?
Thanks.

[Lawson Cox]

[QUOTE=1stford;1449345]Can anyone tell me:
1). Did 1936 ford truck come from factory with rear bumper

NO. An accessory bumper was used sometime in 36, and may have been stock on some late 36s'

2). What fender support brackets go on the front and rear fenders of a 1936 ford truck.

Large fender brace on front that the headlights mounted to, and a smaller brace from just behind the wheel opening of the fender to the frame. Rear fender had a small brace from front of the wheel opening to the frame.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thanks for the input on this. I've got another questions about parts house. Normally I use Van pelt or Roy Nacewiz for everything I can. Drake for the trim parts but a lot of what i"m looking for is not available from any of them. I found everything I need on Mac's site. Is there any difference in the products Macs offers VS say drake or are they all selling the same thing?

Generally the same.

[1stford]

I want to test my horn, I have no power in the truck, how do I do that out of the truck? The horn has two wires coming off of it. With a battery touching wires I'm getting no honk.

[Lawson Cox]

That should work if you're getting good contact with the battery.

[1stford]

Thanks for the help. It was the adjustment screw, I turned it and the horn blew.

[1stford]

I'm having some problems getting a steering wheel to fit. I believe the box is a 36, it mounts up just fine to the frame and the dash. there are numbers and letters on it, they are hard to read but it looks like on one spot there is an "F" and then there are number that might say ?8-35?0.

I first tried the steering wheel pictured below and that would not go on. Then I got a 1936 steering wheel and same deal. It appears that the 2 steering wheels have the same side hole in them. Is there a different steering wheel that has a bigger hole?


Any help is appreciated.

[rotorwrench]

In the model A days Ford started with a splined type steering wheel but changed that when they started the change over to the Gemmer type designs with the tapered steering shaft and a woodruff key. Ford change the size a bit for the model B cars but kept this same design till the F1 pickups came out in 1948 when they changed over to a splined steering shaft design. If it's early Ford with tapered shaft then any Ford steering wheel should fit that was made between 1932 and 1948 for cars. If it's not Ford or was made earlier or later then it may not fit. Other manufacturers used Gemmer designs but not all used the same method of steering wheel retention. Model A vehicles with tapered shaft had larger tapered bore I do believe. Truck stuff may just be bigger but I can't tell you for sure.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

In the model A days Ford started with a splined type steering wheel but changed that when they started the change over to the Gemmer type designs with the tapered steering shaft and a woodruff key. Ford change the size a bit for the model B cars but kept this same design till the F1 pickups came out in 1948 when they changed over to a splined steering shaft design. If it's early Ford with tapered shaft then any Ford steering wheel should fit that was made between 1932 and 1948 for cars. If it's not Ford or was made earlier or later then it may not fit. Other manufacturers used Gemmer designs but not all used the same method of steering wheel retention. Model A vehicles with tapered shaft had larger tapered bore I do believe. Truck stuff may just be bigger but I can't tell you for sure.

Can you tell my looking at the steering box I posted a picture of that it is in fact a ford that falls in that 32-48 year?

[Bob C]

Here's a picture from Van Pelt's site.

Bob

[1stford]

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Thanks Bob, It all looks like mine, I could see where the numbers on mine could be 3548 and I took the 8 as a zero. Everything seems to go on and line up but the nut only covers about half of the threads, if the nut only covering half the threads is normal then I might be fine?

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Thanks Bob, It all looks like mine, I could see where the numbers on mine could be 3548 and I took the 8 as a zero. Everything seems to go on and line up but the nut only covers about half of the threads, if the nut only covering half the threads is normal then I might be fine?

How thick is the nut, the correct one is only about 3/8" thick.

Bob

[1stford]

I think the one I"m using is about 1/4 inch max.

[JSeery]

Can you post a better photo of the tapered end of the steering shaft?

[rotorwrench]

I took a look at the parts book just for grins and found that all the trucks (and I mean big trucks not pickups) use the same steering wheel from 1932 thru 1937. The steering shafts change a lot for different models but the 32 thru 34 used the BB-3524 shaft and the 35 thru 37 used the 51-3524 which sort of indicated that all of the trucks in that range did use the same steering wheel. The steering gear assembly was used from 1935 thru 37 and it is P/N 51-3503.

If this is a commercial pickup then it should be about the same as a passenger car. The steering wheel would have been a P/N 68A-3600 same as passenger car. The steering shaft could be either the 50-3524 or the 67-3524 in 35/36 and both were 46.5 inches long from tip to tip with all other dimensions the same. The 1935 steering gear was P/N 50-3503 and the 1936 gear assembly was 67-3503 so there was some change but I don't know what. The casting for the steering gear mentioned would be P/N 48-3548 and is referred to as a housing and stud assembly and it is same for 1935 and 1936.

I don't know if this is of any help but these parts are related and there is some interchangeability to parts for these so that a person can at least check stuff out.

[1stford]

So I was able to get the steering wheel on by doing some grinding on the shaft, for some reason there was a bit of a hump there. I'm ready to put the horn rod on and want to make sure I have it all covered.
When I put the horn rod in the only thing that goes with it is the brass fitting at the top? Also should I put any grease in the shaft at all, I've read in some places you should/
Thanks

[1stford]

I'm needing to get a floor mat for the 36 truck. It appears that they do not sell such an item, anyone have any ideas on what to use. I'm told a floor mat for a 39 truck and then cut it? Thanks in advance.

[1stford]

If my truck is currently 6V. 6V horn, lights, voltage regulator what would I have to to change to make it 12 volt. It's positive ground now.

Jeremie

[1stford]

Anyone have any recommendations on where to buy a factory correct 6V 1949 generator?

[1stford]

Jkl

[JSeery]

Try removing the thermostats until you get it sorted out. These are none pressurized systems, so cap on or off doesn't make much difference.

Hint: Might consider starting different threads for new topics, might get better responses.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Try removing the thermostats until you get it sorted out. These are none pressurized systems, so cap on or off doesn't make much difference.

Hint: Might consider starting different threads for new topics, might get better responses.

Thanks. I will do that now.

[flatheadmurre]

Couldn´t delete the post...

[1stford]

I’m looking for the bolts and nuts that hold the bed on a 36 truck, anyone have those for sale or know anyone that sells them?

[Tinker]

>Best I know, if you are talking about the long bolts that have a square wrench tool top. They are not reproduced. call roy.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by 1stford

I’m looking for the bolts and nuts that hold the bed on a 36 truck, anyone have those for sale or know anyone that sells them?

Go to; www.fordbolts.com

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by 1stford

Can anyone tell me:
1). Did 1936 ford truck come from factory with rear bumper

2). What fender support brackets go on the front and rear fenders of a 1936 ford truck.

thanks so much.
Jeremie

No. 35-36 pickups had no rear bumper. Bumper came on in 37.