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03-27-2017, 10:26 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Restoration help
Quote:
I've used all three for some specialty bolts or parts needed. Can't say on overall. buy what you can from whom offers. Do some research. Pretty amazing that a lot of this stuff is even available, even if less then ford built. or build it. original stuff is best but takes time to find and not always cost effective. Last edited by Tinker; 03-27-2017 at 10:35 PM. |
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03-27-2017, 10:48 PM | #22 |
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Re: Restoration help
I'm sorry I should have been more specific. I need some items like door handles, hood ornaments, fender braces, and things like that. Drake is sold out as well as carpenter but I"ve found it on Macs site. Are all of those folks selling the same parts, any reason Macs (not van pelt) is not just as good/or the same stuff as drake or carpenter?
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03-27-2017, 10:54 PM | #23 |
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Re: Restoration help
I can't answer that specially. You might find that a lot of the parts from every vender comes in a vintage parts package. They are all different in what is best. Search or ask. Ordered a lot from macs over the yrs for projects. Sacramento ford too for wiring. Drake for window kits. Carpenter for some stuff. snyders for model a stuff.
Put a ad up for ford parts here. might get lucky. I like original parts If i can find them. |
03-27-2017, 11:02 PM | #24 | |
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Re: Restoration help
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03-28-2017, 04:17 PM | #25 |
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Re: Restoration help
Any suggestions on where to buy a new windshield frame in chrome for 36 truck. Drake does not have any and no one else seems to either.
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03-28-2017, 04:49 PM | #26 |
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Re: Restoration help
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If you are using a '39 pedal ass'y get a '39 release arm. If you check the repop '39 arm that BD offers you will see that using the '39 arm will make your align- ment issue vanish. The arm on your trans is a '35 - '36 which is too short to satisfy the geometry presented using '39 pedals. Charlie ny |
03-28-2017, 07:06 PM | #27 |
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Re: Restoration help
This picture shows the "91A" 1939 arm that Charlie NY speaks of above. The arm on the far right is the one you need. DD
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03-28-2017, 10:41 PM | #28 | |
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Re: Restoration help
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03-29-2017, 09:47 AM | #29 | |
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Re: Restoration help
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04-05-2017, 06:12 PM | #30 |
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Re: Restoration help
So I'm at the point where I'm going to start on my electrical. I've not ever done a car this far back but want to keep the appearance of original most likely using 12v. I have all new wiring harnesses for everything and and a voltage regulator, that's the extent of my electrical parts. Just needing some direction ok what else I will need and where to get an original look 12v battery. (Does it go in the engine compartment or under floorboard for a 1936 truck.
Thank you. |
05-12-2017, 09:00 PM | #31 |
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Re: Restoration help
In the picture below there is a black pipe coming out of the intake down the front of the block and it's supposed to go between the frame and oil pan. There is not enough room and I'm wondering if anyone has had the same problem, can I just cap that off and not run anything out of there? The motor, I think, is a 49.
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05-13-2017, 08:24 AM | #32 |
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Re: Restoration help
Look at the 39 transmission lever
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05-14-2017, 07:44 AM | #33 |
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Re: Restoration help
Given that you're putting a late engine in an early car/truck - the breathing systems were completely different. The original 49-53 'road draft' setup was a somewhat crude crankcase ventilation system - it does nothing at low speed and kind of work at higher speeds (hence the term 'road draft'). It is definitely better than the earlier 36-48 systems, but not by much. With today's ethanol enhanced fuels, we get even more water vapor in the crankcases than back in the day - so adding a PCV isn't a bad idea.
You have a couple choices: 1) Fabricate an original 'extension' that routes the tube through the engine/frame challenges and hopefully ends up in about the same configuration as stock. It needs to come out in about the same manner as stock (with the end done the same way) - such that "road drafting" actually happens. 2) Replace the road draft system with a PCV system. You replace the road draft tube and plumb in a PCV valve where it used to go. I believe you already have a large vacuum port in a stock manifold - this is where the vacuum side of the pcv goes. There are guys that make a 'kit' for this for 49-53 setups . . .but is is EASY to do yourself. The vacuum source should be below the carb and hopefully in an area there ALL cylinders pull vacuum from it. I'm not sure if a stock manifold has a port that does this? It is good for the PCV vacuum to be distributed to all cylinders . . . such that some don't run a bit leaner than others. One way is to make about a 1" spacer under the carb - with an open plenum in it . . . with a 1/4" NPT port in it. Lots of ways to do it - just make sure the PCV setup is plumbed as a PCV should - as I've seen all sorts of goofy setups done by folks who don't understand how PCVs work! |
07-02-2017, 02:58 PM | #34 |
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Re: Restoration help
I posted on another thread but wanted to see if anyone has a 36 ford truck steering wheel for sale?
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07-06-2017, 12:47 PM | #35 |
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Re: Restoration help
I've posted this same question on my truck tread as well.
So I'm stuck with some wiring issues. Wanted to put it on paper and see if anyone can weigh in on this with some thoughts. Heres where I am: I currently have new wiring harnesses to fit 1936 truck. I currently have master cylinder under the floor board The foot starter switch has been removed and there is a start button on the dash. Truck has a two wire generator (49 8BA) So heres my thoughts. The new 36 harness wont work because A). It is set up for 1 wire generator B). My generator Needs a voltage Regulator C). Needs starter button and solenoid wiring. D). Harness does not have the brake light for master cylinder? So I'd like to keep the 6 volt battery as I see that Optima makes one that is about 3.5 inches wide so I think it will still fit with the master cylinder? Didn't know if going to Tyree harris and just having him back me a harness that would accommodate everything I need? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas you have. 1stford is online now Report Post |
08-27-2017, 09:20 PM | #36 |
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Re: Restoration help
Having a generator belt problem. Motor is 8BA with everything stock on it. I'm trying to get the belt that goes on the generator, water pumps and bottom pulley and having no success. Is there a trick to getting that one the generator?
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08-27-2017, 11:52 PM | #37 |
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Re: Restoration help
[QUOTE=1stford;1449345]Can anyone tell me:
1). Did 1936 ford truck come from factory with rear bumper NO. An accessory bumper was used sometime in 36, and may have been stock on some late 36s' 2). What fender support brackets go on the front and rear fenders of a 1936 ford truck. Large fender brace on front that the headlights mounted to, and a smaller brace from just behind the wheel opening of the fender to the frame. Rear fender had a small brace from front of the wheel opening to the frame.
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08-27-2017, 11:53 PM | #38 | |
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Re: Restoration help
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08-31-2017, 09:27 PM | #39 |
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Re: Restoration help
I want to test my horn, I have no power in the truck, how do I do that out of the truck? The horn has two wires coming off of it. With a battery touching wires I'm getting no honk.
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08-31-2017, 10:01 PM | #40 |
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Re: Restoration help
That should work if you're getting good contact with the battery.
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Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm". |
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