Single weight or multi grade oil

[Divco one]

Clean rebuilt motor. What's the recommended oil? Pennsylvania summer driving.

[Joey Anchors]

ND30 is what I would use.

[redmodelt]

10-30 Walmart would be just fine and change often.

[Jacksonlll]

That Model A engine does not care what you put in it as long as you change it often. Just my opinion. If not driving much, change at 500 miles. If you are a goer, change it at 1000 miles. Now, step back and get all the opinions.

[oldbike99]

Did you have the engine built for you? If so, ask the builder. They should have an opinion. Mine recommended Rotella 15w40 but said any multi viscosity would work. He did specifically say that synthetic oils, in his opinion, were not designed to work with flat tappet engines.
This question is bound to create many responses.

[SeaSlugs]

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Originally Posted by oldbike99

Did you have the engine built for you? If so, ask the builder. They should have an opinion. Mine recommended Rotella 15w40 but said any multi viscosity would work. He did specifically say that synthetic oils, in his opinion, were not designed to work with flat tappet engines.
This question is bound to create many responses.

old rumor about synthetic oils and flat tappets - fyi nascar engines still use flat tappets and use full synthetic oils (granted they add more ZDDP due to thier high rpm high temp environment)

i have heard good things about that rotella.

personally id use any good multiweight oil(i have dino castrol 10-40 in mine), dump a bottle of STP (adds more zinc) 10-40 should be good. Altho since the model A has relatively weak valve springs there wont be any wear due to less ZDDP but thats up to you. if you want to spend the extra dough every 500-1000 miles on synthetic id go for that too but may be harder to find in the thicker weights.

either way FIRST and foremost do and use whatever your engine builder says - then he cant come back on you saying you used the wrong oil and blew the engine up if so it happens.

[Arlyn Bieber]

Henry and his engineers recommended 40W and the engines are still running, 85 years later. I bet they would have recommended detergent oil if it has been available.

[Mike V. Florida]

All right a good old which oil to use thread!

"Single weight or multi grade oil?" YES

Here is the real answer, Whatever the rebuilder tells you to use!

Lacking that information, ANY oil designed for motor vehicles will work in your model A.
Any specifics will only be opinion and/or habit.

Now I'll just sit back, watch and smile.

[1931 flamingo]

40W?? Are you sure??
Paul in CT

[Bruce Adams]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

40W?? Are you sure??
Paul in CT

My Model A Instruction Book, (Owner's Manual) states "S.A.E. viscosity No. 40 will prove satisfactory for summer use. For winter use oil having the specifications of S.A.E. No. 20 should be used."...

[Arlyn Bieber]

Opps Forgot about winter. Don't have that in San Diego!!

[ryanheacox]

My grandfather always ran 10W-30. I've tried ND30, HD30 and am currently using Rotella 15W-40 since the higher amount of zinc should be nicer on the tappets. Whether this is true or not on a low stress engine like the A is subject to debate.

Bottom line, any oil designed for modern cars, synthetic or dino-juice, should be fine assuming it's in the right viscosity range, probably 30-40 weight for summer driving.

[raprice22]

Since your Model A engine is rebuilt, by no means use non detergent oil. I use 10W-30 detergent oil in my "A" and it works beautifully. What brand you use is really up to you. They're all good. I routinely change my oil every autumn regardless of how many miles I drive during the year. The inside of my engine is clean as a whistle.
Rog

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by ryanheacox

My grandfather always ran 10W-30. I've tried ND30, HD30 and am currently using Rotella 15W-40 since the higher amount of zinc should be nicer on the tappets. Whether this is true or not on a low stress engine like the A is subject to debate.

Bottom line, any oil designed for modern cars, synthetic or dino-juice, should be fine assuming it's in the right viscosity range, probably 30-40 weight for summer driving.

I agree on all counts !
Wayne

[J Franklin]

Non detergent oil is for engines without oil filtration.

[Anteek29]

I believe any brand oil should be fine...oils today are far superior to those available when the A's were new. The A engine is not fussy.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Non detergent oil is for engines without oil filtration.

You use non detergent in your small lawn mowers engines too ?

[J Franklin]

I use whatever oil is on hand, never had an engine failure due to oil. Detergent oil came into use when engine oil began to be filtered mostly. It helps to keep the dirt and soot suspended so it can be filtered out.

[Terry, NJ]

Always remember, "The worst oils of today are better than the best oils of 1930!" With or without additives! I use Rotella from TSC. Mod. A s do well on whatever you pour into them. My advice would be to use a Detergent oil so that the sludge build up will be less. I once had a engine (mod A) in which the oil pump screen was 80% clogged with sludge... And bad mains! Gee do ya think that the two conditions are connected? Cause I do!
Terry

Originally Posted by Divco one

Clean rebuilt motor. What's the recommended oil? Pennsylvania summer driving.

[HoarseWhisperer]

Oh, the hysteria of motor oil....

Interesting comments from Rich Fallucca:

Q What oil should I use and what about the zinc reduction in modern motor oils?

A If engine is clean on the inside it is highly recommended to use a multi grade motor oil such as 10w30 or 5w30. Yes we all have learned that the modern motor has greatly reduced zinc a anti wear additive. This anti wear additive was required when the automotive industry switched from steel cam shafts to a cast iron camshafts. The Model "T" "A" and early "V8" Fords had steel camshafts and this problem of premature camshaft lobe wear has not happened. We also have lower valve spring tensions and lower RPM's that prevent this wear from happening. Later V8 fords had a cast iron camshaft and a different oil or zinc additive should be used.
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/Q&A.html