Hillbilly block cleaning...electrolysis

[tubman]

The bottom line is that the only process of de-rusting metal that is not destructive is chellation. Everything else will have a deleterious effect on cast iron, depending on how long it is immersed. There is a thread on the H.A.M.B. where this is emphasized when Molasses ( the weakest acid there is) is used. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...2#post-9329252.

It was posted by our own "Bored&Stroked"; perhaps he will check in on this subject.

It's like just about everything else : the best method will probably always be the most expensive. I have searched and searched for the last couple of years to find an inexpensive chellation agent and have rejected everything I've found. There is an agent out there called EDTA (for short), but it seems to be as expensive as the final product itself.

[JSeery]

I'm in the no acid camp as well. You want something that works on the rust only and not the base metal.

[dmar836]

Old thread but even molasses uses acid as it is part of the reaction as it breaks down, or reacts with the metal. It's also nasty when left to work for a few weeks. Evil globs of floating, smelly, rotten scum. Works really well on body panels but I think I'll stay clear of the molasses.

[Bored&Stroked]

Just bought a bunch of Evaporust for my next racing block project - will never do molasses again . . . not only because it eats away at the good metal, but because it is a mess to work with, stinks to high Hell and is not worth the trouble.

[dmar836]

B&S, Is there a special technique you use with the Evaporust? Lay block on back with heads on and fill, etc?
My project is disassembled so can't be filled/flushed/repeated.
D

[Ronnieroadster]

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Originally Posted by dmar836

B&S, Is there a special technique you use with the Evaporust? Lay block on back with heads on and fill, etc?
My project is disassembled so can't be filled/flushed/repeated.
D

I have used Evaporust to clean the water jacket areas on disassembled blocks. With the empty block mounted in the engine stand held in by the bell housing end rotate the block so the deck surface is level to the ground. Cover the front areas where the water pumps bolt on and put a plug in the block drains if there's any. Now simply fill the block with the Evaporust I usually leave the stuff in for a couple of days.
An added note prior to filling the block I first scrape out as much material as possible from the areas between and around the rear two cylinders on each side. After the hand scraping flush the block out as much as possible. Now its time for the Evaporust
Ronnieroadster

[Pete]

I have had blocks stripped since the mid 50's. It is the only method that will get ALL of the scale from the bottom of the water jackets. Notice I said SCALE. Rust is secondary, scale should be the first concern to remove. Stripping does not etch machined surfaces.
If you have ANY scale on a surface, it will add to the reading of an ultrasonic gauge and give a false reading of thickness. Most people are too cheap to pay for stripping so they suffer with the problems.

[slowforty]

I filled my block with vinegar, about two gallons .left it out in the sun for a few hours the heat from the sun caused it to boil(?) over. Left an interesting pattern on the driveway. Move the engine over to the lawn did it twice more. Cleaned the block well. Also vinegar is a GREAT grass killer. Weed Killer receipe one gallon vinegar. half cup of salt , three ounces of dawn dish soap

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by Pete

I have had blocks stripped since the mid 50's. It is the only method that will get ALL of the scale from the bottom of the water jackets. Notice I said SCALE. Rust is secondary, scale should be the first concern to remove. Stripping does not etch machined surfaces.
If you have ANY scale on a surface, it will add to the reading of an ultrasonic gauge and give a false reading of thickness. Most people are too cheap to pay for stripping so they suffer with the problems.

Pete, I am unfamiliar with "stripping". What is the process and what chemical(s) are used. Who does it in our area? I'm interested. I have 2 blocks I'd like to get a closer look at.
Thanks, Tom

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by slowforty

Also vinegar is a GREAT grass killer. Weed Killer receipe one gallon vinegar. half cup of salt , three ounces of dawn dish soap

My wife would make sure I could never father a child if I did that! Reminds me when I was a kid my Dad took a carb about to rebuild and ran the parts through the dishwasher to clean them. They came out great. Unfortunately the dishwasher smelled of gas. My Dad already had 3 kids but never fathered another.

[deuce_roadster]

The Redi-Strip process uses electricity (DC) and the bath they immerse it in is a strong BASE solution with some other hazardous chemicals. There used to be a franchise in Seattle years ago in the 1980s. I had a 34 sedan delivery body dipped there and it only removes iron oxide and leaves good cast iron alone. I wish they had been a legitimate business as they would still be around but they were caught dumping the hazardous material into the storm drains which went into the Duwamish River near their industrial park. If there is a real Redi-Strip business still around near you, that would be the best solution for blocks, trans cases and anything ferrous metal.

[Veeder]

Great inf Freddie!!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by tomcarman

Pete, I am unfamiliar with "stripping". What is the process and what chemical(s) are used. Who does it in our area? I'm interested. I have 2 blocks I'd like to get a closer look at.
Thanks, Tom

I use: AmericanMetalCleaning.com
They are in north Portland.

They have several different processes.

[Scott52]

I used the electrolysis method to clean a couple of exhaust manifolds and some other small parts. They came very clean but after reading this thread, I have no idea about deep inside. My battery charger went kaput as well and I don't think the newer "smart" chargers work. So I have a 50 gal plastic drum, I used 6" x 6" cement reinforcing net which went completely around the inside of the drum and various PVC pipes to keep the parts from touching the grid. I would not be opposed to trying it again if I find a cheap older style battery charger, but not on blocks.

[Ol' Ron]

That looks pretty clean, I just see some surface rust. Have it baked cleaned and run it.
Gramps.