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05-10-2022, 09:54 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jamestown, NY
Posts: 8
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brake adjustment
So, checking and adjusting the brakes today, I came upon the front right actuating arm, adjustment #1 failed. All other brakes adjusted perfect to 4.
Is there something wrong with the arm or brake? |
05-10-2022, 10:33 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
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Re: brake adjustment
I don’t understand adjustments #1 & #4.
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05-11-2022, 05:40 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jamestown, NY
Posts: 8
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Re: brake adjustment
Using the wood brake adjuster step thingamabob.
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05-11-2022, 05:44 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Re: brake adjustment
There is stuff to do before you get to the adjustment board.
All kinds of info in SEARCH |
05-11-2022, 07:04 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: brake adjustment
More info needed. If you referring to the 15 degree angle of the front arms then the brake rod lengths should not be changed when adjusting the brakes. They should be factory adjusted to provide the 15 degrees and then left alone. All adjustment should be done with the adjusters. If you cannot get the brakes into adjustment with the adjusters then you need new shoes or the pellets that fit under the rods, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7561&cat=41655.
The adjustment is tested by an actual brake skid test. There should be no pulling to one side or the other and the back tires should both leave marks on the asphalt. You should be able to stop within 25 feet at 20 mph. If not make minor adjustments (one click at a time) until the skid test is good.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
05-11-2022, 02:22 PM | #6 | |
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Location: North Carolina
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Re: brake adjustment
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Quote:
With the board, you do not adjust one wheel at a time, you are working all four wheels at the same time for each step on the adjusting board. |
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05-11-2022, 04:08 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Roanoke, VA USA
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Re: brake adjustment
Paul Shinn’s YouTube video may be helpful.
https://youtu.be/0zk-0tIAfWQ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
05-11-2022, 04:56 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: brake adjustment
Paul's video shows the rods being disconnected. You should never have to do that unless they have been changed to a wrong length by a previous person. The rods should be the right length as described in the Service Bulletins. The right length is so that the front lever arms are at 15 degrees forward with the brake pedal not pressed. The rear arms should be about 5 degrees back. Once the rods are at the right length, do not change them.
All the brake adjustment should be done with the adjusters. You can use the wood tool to get them close but the real test is a skid test. Drive the car at 20 mph and jam on the brakes. The car should stop within 25 feet and the rear tires should both leave black marks on dry asphalt. The car should not pull to one side or the other. Make one notch adjustments to correct any problems and try again. If you cannot bring any brake into adjustment then there is something wrong. The shoes are worn, the drum is worn, there is a mechanical problem, or the adjustment shims are needed.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
05-11-2022, 05:37 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portsmouth, Virginia
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Re: brake adjustment
I have been working on my brakes for over a year now. The first mistake I made was adjusting the rods. However, I finally got new rods from Snyders. Notice the difference in the length of the rods. The one on the left is a new rod and on the right is my old rod. After close inspection of the old rods, I think they may have been cut at some point. Finally, I have enough rod to adjust.
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05-12-2022, 07:32 AM | #10 |
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Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: brake adjustment
At some point point the rods were not adjustable, see page 259 of the service bulletins. The lengths of the front and rear rods were 51 1/2 to 51 7/16 inches. At some point the adjustable rods were re introduced but the rods from the factory were set to a length and the instructions were to not change the length. On page 299 of the service bulletins the length of the adjustable rods was set to the above length and the instructions were "this adjustment must not be altered."
Over the years things get worn and changed. I think it is alright to change the length of the rods but that the rules regarding the angles of the arms should be followed and once the rods are adjusted they should not be changed and all brake adjustments done with the brake adjusters.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 05-12-2022 at 07:54 AM. |
05-12-2022, 08:15 AM | #11 |
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Location: Chenango Bridge NY
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Re: brake adjustment
Rods are adjusted to remove actuation play. The brake stick is used only after all four wheels are off the ground, the car is in neutral with e brake released. It’s not necessary to use the four notch method, just apply firm pressure to the brake pedal. Once this is done turn each front wheel by hand and use the adjuster to match the “drag” then do the same on the rear but create a heavier drag than the front.Next is skid test, rears should skid evenly ( eyeball the skid marks) front should pull down straight and not skid. Tweak the adjusters slightly to even the skid marks or to tune a “pull” out of the front…
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05-12-2022, 11:20 AM | #12 | |
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Location: North Carolina
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Re: brake adjustment
Quote:
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05-12-2022, 12:55 PM | #13 |
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Re: brake adjustment
I use a stick but the four notch method is overkill, once you equalize drag on fronts and rear with a bias to the rear under any brake pressure increasing pedal pressure is moot.
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05-13-2022, 12:36 PM | #14 |
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Re: brake adjustment
Patrick is right, there is much more to it then turning the adjusting wedge.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
05-13-2022, 03:55 PM | #15 | |
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Re: brake adjustment
Quote:
There ya go ! |
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05-22-2022, 08:14 AM | #16 |
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jamestown, NY
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Re: brake adjustment
I have purchased all new rods, rebuilt the brakes, rebuilt the actuator arms, new pins inside king pins. AND was going by Paul Shins video at adjusting the brakes exactly. Brake pads are within specs. Now, as I read on here, its contradicting on the how to.
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05-22-2022, 08:42 AM | #17 |
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Re: brake adjustment
The method I use after doing a brake job is to use a temperature gun. I drive the car and apply and hold the brakes slightly. Then pull over and take the temperature of the drums. I back off the hottest one(s) and turn in the cooler one(s). Then drive some more applying the brakes and repeat the temperature measurement. When all four are close to the same temperature, the brakes work great with no pulling to either side.
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05-22-2022, 09:38 AM | #18 |
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jamestown, NY
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Re: brake adjustment
Ok. I will go back and use the adjusters after setting the rods. I'll give it another shot. Thank you all for the advice.
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05-22-2022, 11:16 AM | #19 | |
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Re: brake adjustment
Quote:
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05-22-2022, 01:04 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Saint Cloud Mn
Posts: 745
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Re: brake adjustment
First off toss the board. Once everything is in proper working order drive and adjust as necessary.
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