35 wires, tires and tubes

[deuce lover]

Thanks DD !!!

[Tinker]

[QUOTE=V8COOPMAN;2124890]The benefit of the 16" wheels is that they just look so damned good when compared with the 17"-ers! Coop




Depends on who you are asking and what someone wants.

https://ironandsteele.com/blogs/news...rds-mr-model-t


Regarding 16" 35 ... Personally. Wide five 36' 16" 6.00 fronts, 7.00 rear. Tubes and bia-ply from coker on my 36. 6 yrs now.


Some have wrapped the wheel with duct tape to smooth out any issues.

Ran 35's wires on my 1928. Little banger with mechanical brakes to boot. Fun little go-cart around town.

[cas3]

that looks like a fun hot rod

[Tinker]

If you are talking to me CAS. With the 5" chop and being 6'2" 250 it was like a monkey f' a football driving it. Every stop light was a mystery. It was a fun ride though, glad I experience it. Not sure I would call it a hotrod, it was not fast. It would chirp the tires if I rev'ed it up and dropped the clutch.

[Tinker]

Hotrod.

[V8COOPMAN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Tinker

Hotrod.

That ain't no steenkin' "hot rod"! That's a very early suicide dragster. These BELOW are REAL "hot rods"! Both cars belong to Moriarity up in Minnesota. The '40 has an early Caddy, and the T-phone booth (from about 1955) has a flatty with column shifter on a shortened deuce chassis. Coop

[Flathead Fever]

Years ago, I called one of the vintage tire dealers because I was concerned about running tubes in Kelsey wire wheels without liners. I remember being kid and seeing the skinny liners on the center my dad' Model A rims he was restoring, and I assumed they should be there on all wire wheels. They didn't have a liner to sell with their 16" repro tires and tubes which really surprised me. I was told to just wrap the rim with galvanized pipe tape, that heavy, 2"wide, black plastic pipe tape you wrap metal pipes with when you're going to bury them, so they do not corrode. That tape is some thick, tuff, stuff and its real smooth. Is that the correct thing to do, I do not have a clue? But that is what I have done ever since.

With the '35 spokes being beautifully spot welded they are practically as smooth as a '40 Ford 16" rim. You do not see any sign of the spokes except for a very slight dimple where the spot weld is. It looks like a sheet metal spot weld. I would just make sure there are no rough spots and not worry about a liner at all. But I have always wonder about the riveted Kelsey spokes being able to move and damage a tube without a liner. The Kelsey's I would definitely wrap with the pipe tape.

I'll tell you a little story (unfortunately for you guys I have one for about every situation). At the phone company fleet, we were not allowed to change the tires on the big trucks with split rims because an idiot helper managed to lose a finger once. We had to call out a mobile vendor on those tires. One night I was working at midnight servicing a F-800 boom truck and it had a flat inner-rear- tire so I decided, screw the vender. The truck is on the hoist already, I''ll pull the tire and rim off and I'll patch the tube to keep this truck in service in the morning. Otherwise, I would have had to red tag it and those drivers hate that. Probably because they have all their dirty magazine s in there. When I got the tube out, I found a hole rubbed through it. The tire vender that had installed the tire had dropped a cigarette butt filter in the tire and it ended up between the tire and the tube. That soft flexible filter rubbed a hole right through that tube. That has always bothered me because if a cigarette butt could do that than a spoke head on a Kelsey wire rim could do it to.

I was just going through the family 35mm Kodachrome slides and there was a shot of my dad's '29 Woody under construction, probably around 1969. The photo is a little dark but there are the liners I remember from my childhood. He was stickler for being authentic and cheap, so if he installed them, they were probably there originally on Model A's. He did his own paint work; you can see those vintage cans of Ditzler lacquer and enamel. Funny the little things you see that bring back the memories. There is another phot of him, and I water sanding the lacquer primer with 600 grit paper (that was the finest grit there was back then) Maybe that's why I remember those rims so well, child abuse slave labor! Another part of my childhood vintage Ford guy brain washing.

The yellow rim is a '35 Ford that's nice and smooth, the grey rim is a Kelsey. I have rims laying all over this garage. I use to buy the 16" '40 Ford disc types if I could get them for $5.00 and the '35 Ford wires if I could buy them for $15.00. The Kelsey's have always been a little too pricey to hoard, even 30 years ago.

My advice on wire rims, buy the very best rust pit free ones you can find. It worth whatever extra it cost to get ones without rust pits!!! If you powder paint the pits they look like crap. If you try and fill the pits with multiple coats of epoxy primer your fingers will literally be bleeding by the time you sand all those spokes trying to make them smooth. Don't pay much for rims with old petrified tires on them that have set outside. They almost surely have had water gotten inside of them and rusted halfway through the rim. I remove those rock hard tires with a chainsaw around the bead. My Coats tire machine won't budge them. They are usually rusted so bad the metal is flaking off inside I throw them out in my cactus garden for yard art. The lizards like to lay on them because they get nice and warm.

[cas3]

When I used to play with WW2 army trucks I had to quite often use a chainsaw to remove the old tires. I would make 2 cuts about 10" apart, then along the rim to remove that chunk, then torch the beads. Quite stinky, but works very well

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by cas3

When I used to play with WW2 army trucks I had to quite often use a chainsaw to remove the old tires. I would make 2 cuts about 10" apart, then along the rim to remove that chunk, then torch the beads. Quite stinky, but works very well

Another benefit of the chainsaw removal method is you can quickly cut up the tires into pieces that fit in your trash can, If you put a tire in your trash can the trash guy will take it out. But if they are foot long pieces buried in with the trash they go away. The dump gets a $5.31 disposal fee for each tire, screw that! Plus its a long drive to the dump from where I live. That would be another $12.00 in gas. I bought an old Coats tire machine, a used Snap-On computerized spin balancer and I have found a way around the tire disposal fee. It does not cost me a penny to mount and balance tires. Plus, I like doing my own tire mounting so the rims don't get scratched. I bought plastic sleeves to go over the tire machine bar. Lots of rags. Tractor Supply has a cheap little tool for fishing the valve stem through hole and keeping it there while your mounting the tire. I like to line up the center on the Firestone with the valve stem and then line up the hub cap too. That's something my dad always did on his Model A's. I'll never save enough o justify buying the tire mounting equipment for home use but that was part of my job at work and it just bugs me to pay someone to do something I can do myself. I sand blasted those rims myself to save money at the powder. painter. I'm not happy with how the color turned out, It was suppose to be Tacoma Cream and they are too yellow. Now I'm going to take the tires back off scuff the rims up, and have some epoxy paint mixed up and spray them. I think that is the only way to get that nice Tacoma Creme color.

Now I just found a bread warming oven at a metal salvage yard for $40.00 that I want to convert into a decent size powder paint oven. I stood there looking at it and in the salvage yard and I had a vision, "an axle could fit in that thing" (something you need to look for when appliance shopping). Its 60 inches tall inside, 26 inches deep and 15 inched between those shelf brackets. Then I had another vision, " I could get four Early Ford rims in that thing". If I stand them up I can fit two rims side by side. And can get four rims in there like that, and have a little more room for some small parts. I'm going to replace the warming element with two electric stove elements, that should get the temp up to 400 degrees. What I don't I know is how well insulated this thing is? I think its insulated as good as an electric oven is. If not, I Might need to frame around it with metal studs and pack them full of insulation. I recently replaced my kitchen electric oven with a gas one so now I have electric oven too for powder painting small parts. The garage has its own separate 100 amp service with 220V 50A welding outlets. I just need to change the plugs on the ovens to 50A welding plugs. I'm buying one of those Eastwood Powder paint kits. I already have a large bead blaster, long enough to do an axle, tie rod... and a large Ingersol Rand compressor that can keep up with it. I'm going try my luck at powder painting at home. No more waiting a month and driving to the next own to have it done. It would be so cool to pull off a part, powder paint it and put it back without ever leaving home. Plus I can by samples of every, yellow-gold- crem colored sample they have until I fine that elusive Tacoma Cream.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

That ain't no steenkin' "hot rod"! That's a very early suicide dragster. These BELOW are REAL "hot rods"! Both cars belong to Moriarity up in Minnesota. The '40 has an early Caddy, and the T-phone booth (from about 1955) has a flatty with column shifter on a shortened deuce chassis. Coop

Relax dude, it was a joke. Neither you posted, have steenkin' 35 wires. I know what a hotrod is, also what a streetrod is. All good, thanks. My point is my 28 with 35 wires had all the symptoms of a hotrod (chop,no fenders, big/littles). it was no hotrod! A stock looking sleeper with a stroker motor would have been closer.


Love Mark Moriarty cars. Epic guy. Dig his Roth obsession and collection. Certainly his lawn mowers too.


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBd...Sng4esdqyjcZYQ

[Tinker]

Great stuff Flat Fever!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Love Mark Moriarty cars. Epic guy. Certainly his lawn mowers too.

Featuring Chrome Blade!

[Als48]

Does anyone know if that is a McCulloch engine on that custom mower? My dad had one in the 50's, that I wish I still had.

Al Hook

[Tinker]

You might find another one AL and adapt it. Turbo's are popular lately. Put a turbo on it... don't forget the lower end . Cut grass in half the time! Its okay if you get stalled on a project or finish one and want to super charge and chrome out your 50's push mower.


Just have fun, Atomic!




.