The Ford Barn

mhsprecher · 08-15-2021, 01:09 PM

I have been driving my 28 roadster a lot lately. Not long trips, but around town on errands and the like. It always starts instantly and runs great. This morning I took it out and parked it for about an hour. I came back and it wouldn't start. Finally it started and ran okay. Then after driving about a half a mile, it started missing at higher RPM. I had real trouble getting up a hill, with some backfiring and the like. I made it up the hill and it started running better and then ran great the rest of the way home. i turned it off and tried to start it again and it it fired right up. What does that sound like? I have a good quality condenser from Bratton's installed. Gas in sediment bowl looked fine.

jg61hawk · 08-15-2021, 01:30 PM

Sure sounds like condenser or maybe coil....
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...+2nd+condenser

Here is a copy from another post about checking the coil...and ampmeter
Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

mhsprecher · 08-15-2021, 01:35 PM

Yes. Reading the previous post, it sounds like condenser. I guess it could be a coil, too. I have a new coil I can install, but it is running fine now. The car sat for over an hour, but it has done that often and today wasn't as hot as it has been. I have the show-style burnout proof condenser installed.

jg61hawk · 08-15-2021, 01:39 PM

As soon as it stalls try to check for spark....easier said then done if alone I know and carry starting fluid....see if it fires over quick checks for fuel or spark...

Patrick L. · 08-15-2021, 02:36 PM

If the ignition system checks fine then look at fuel. If its hot outside and the vehicle was setting for awhile the fuel may be boiling off. Look at the fuel from firewall to carb. Bend it if necessary to make sure it goes downhill the whole way, never level or up. A heat spacer between carb and manifold may be needed. I also make a heat shield from the carb mount along the exhaust manifold to the exhaust/muffler clamp.

Anything to keep heat away from condenser and carburetor.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-15-2021, 03:04 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

If the ignition system checks fine then look at fuel. If its hot outside and the vehicle was setting for awhile the fuel may be boiling off. Look at the fuel from firewall to carb. Bend it if necessary to make sure it goes downhill the whole way, never level or up. A heat spacer between carb and manifold may be needed. I also make a heat shield from the carb mount along the exhaust manifold to the exhaust/muffler clamp.

Anything to keep heat away from condenser and carburetor.

Yep, heat soak and boiling gas from a short stop was my first thought also.

08-15-2021, 01:09 PM	#1
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,817	Short term engine problems I have been driving my 28 roadster a lot lately. Not long trips, but around town on errands and the like. It always starts instantly and runs great. This morning I took it out and parked it for about an hour. I came back and it wouldn't start. Finally it started and ran okay. Then after driving about a half a mile, it started missing at higher RPM. I had real trouble getting up a hill, with some backfiring and the like. I made it up the hill and it started running better and then ran great the rest of the way home. i turned it off and tried to start it again and it it fired right up. What does that sound like? I have a good quality condenser from Bratton's installed. Gas in sediment bowl looked fine. __________________ 1924 Model T Coupe 1928 Model A Roadster 1930 Model A Town Sedan 1939 Deluxe Fordor 1945 pickup 1951 Custom convertible

08-15-2021, 01:30 PM	#2
jg61hawk Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Central New Jersey Posts: 404	Re: Short term engine problems Sure sounds like condenser or maybe coil.... https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...+2nd+condenser Here is a copy from another post about checking the coil...and ampmeter Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now. You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not, remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

08-15-2021, 01:35 PM	#3
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,817	Re: Short term engine problems Yes. Reading the previous post, it sounds like condenser. I guess it could be a coil, too. I have a new coil I can install, but it is running fine now. The car sat for over an hour, but it has done that often and today wasn't as hot as it has been. I have the show-style burnout proof condenser installed. __________________ 1924 Model T Coupe 1928 Model A Roadster 1930 Model A Town Sedan 1939 Deluxe Fordor 1945 pickup 1951 Custom convertible Last edited by mhsprecher; 08-15-2021 at 01:40 PM.

08-15-2021, 01:39 PM	#4
jg61hawk Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Central New Jersey Posts: 404	Re: Short term engine problems As soon as it stalls try to check for spark....easier said then done if alone I know and carry starting fluid....see if it fires over quick checks for fuel or spark...

08-15-2021, 02:36 PM	#5
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Short term engine problems If the ignition system checks fine then look at fuel. If its hot outside and the vehicle was setting for awhile the fuel may be boiling off. Look at the fuel from firewall to carb. Bend it if necessary to make sure it goes downhill the whole way, never level or up. A heat spacer between carb and manifold may be needed. I also make a heat shield from the carb mount along the exhaust manifold to the exhaust/muffler clamp. Anything to keep heat away from condenser and carburetor.