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12-18-2020, 11:16 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 91
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Reconditioned Model A engine block
Hi everyone. I hope someone on here can help me with a unique need for my 1928 Model A Tudor. The water jackets on my Model A have been breached and I am in need of a replacement block in good condition at a reasonable price. Can anyone in this forum refer me to someone who can maybe help me with this?
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12-19-2020, 12:48 AM | #2 |
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Location: Oregon
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Where is the damage? Can it be repaired? A Model A club in your area may be able to steer you in the right direction.
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12-19-2020, 07:31 AM | #3 |
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Location: Lake Charles, LA
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
I doubt that it can be repaired. Some time ago a bolt broke on the intake manifold. In the process of removing the bolt, I accidentally drilled into the water jacket and was not able to stop the leak. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that the only remedy is to replace the block. I could be wrong, which is why I am appealing to this forum.
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12-19-2020, 08:16 AM | #4 |
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Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Try your local club to find an engine block.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 12-19-2020 at 10:02 PM. |
12-19-2020, 08:22 AM | #5 |
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Location: Western North Carolina
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Mill48, My water jacket is also breached in the same location. A previous owner drilled out the stud and went into the water jacket. I discovered it when changing manifolds. I put a gasket sealant on the stud when I re installed it and have no problems with a leak to date. I used a silicone sealant so that I could remove the stud at some time in the future if needed.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
12-19-2020, 12:08 PM | #6 |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
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12-19-2020, 02:08 PM | #7 |
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Location: Oregon
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Even if you did not use a sealant the leak wouldn't hurt anything. Just use a bit of any type that might do the job. I would choose LockTite Blue, or old style shellac gasket sealer. Save your money for when you really bust something!
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12-19-2020, 03:30 PM | #8 |
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Location: Portland OR
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
My 1948 F2 flat head, almost all the head bolts are open to the water jacket. Just use sealer as suggested.
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12-19-2020, 04:15 PM | #9 |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
If that's the only problem with the block, I wouldn't even consider replacing it. A little dab of sealant on the stud and you're back in business. I have a block that has chunks of CI broken out where someone screwed a couple of head studs too far in. Discarding the block did not even occur to me. Decent blocks are becoming harder to find. Why make things worse for no reason?
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12-19-2020, 06:02 PM | #10 |
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Location: Qld, Australia
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Arnold, I have a pie of them, they may soon go to the scrap dealer if no one wants them.
Don,t worry about the studs going into the water jacket, the V8,s have all but one going into the water. Lawrie |
12-19-2020, 07:15 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Corning NY
Posts: 244
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Don't worry about this kind of water jacket leak. Put some high temperature sealant on the thread and reinsert the stud like synchro did. We had an 84 Pontiac Grand Prix and on the water pump bolts one was drilled into the water jacket by design.
This is not an issue to concern yourself with. |
12-19-2020, 09:33 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 91
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
How did you deal with the broken chunks of cast iron? The bolt hole is now oversized and I cannot get the proper torque on the bolt.
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12-19-2020, 09:35 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Before you scrap them, can you post pictures and info on their condition?
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12-19-2020, 10:19 PM | #14 |
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Location: Oregon
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
You had just said it was drilled too far. If there is other damage you might want to take your block to a machine shop and maybe it can have a reasonable repair.
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12-19-2020, 10:37 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Quote:
There are other thread inserts available for a very bad hole that has been really screwed up. Your local automotive machine shop should be able to help you with this. My opinion, Chris W. |
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12-19-2020, 10:37 PM | #16 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Have you considered installing or having a machinist install a Heli Coil?
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12-19-2020, 10:54 PM | #17 |
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Join Date: Dec 2019
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Timeserts are better than helicoils..a sleeve instead of a coil. But yes you can junk the block, they made millions of them. Hell I just tossed one with a water jacket crack, bored .125 over and needed main bearings.. felt a little soul twinge when it slipped off the forklift tip into the scrap bin but it passed..
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12-19-2020, 11:03 PM | #18 |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
mill48... this is another option just now coming available. One of Terry Burtz' brand new engine blocks.
http://www.modelaengine.com/ |
12-19-2020, 11:34 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
Quote:
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12-19-2020, 11:38 PM | #20 |
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Re: Reconditioned Model A engine block
A couple thoughts. One, 348 and 409 Chevy blocks came from the factory with a couple bolts that go into a water jacket. Sealant is required, no big deal.Two, I personally wouldn't screw around with heli-coils especially when it is for a stud, not a bolt. I had a head bolt break off on my Model A engine and just drilled the hole out and tapped it to 1/2" and put a stepped stud in it. By stepped, I mean that the bottom is 1/2" then, right at the top of the threads (flush with the deck of the block) it goes to the stock 7/16". Easy, cheap and stronger than the stock stud. These studs are available from the vendors but I just made mine. If the application was for a bolt rather than a stud, I would go with the sleeves that Jack Shaft mentioned.
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