Chamfering/tapering the springs

[7_Zero]

I will be taking apart my front and rear springs soon and was hoping to get some better details on chamfering/ tapering the springs. I am wondering what exactly needs to be done. Do the edges of the spring just need to have a slight bevel/ rounded edge to them to get rid of the sharp edges? Or does the entire end of the spring need to be ground down to become more of a wedge/ point? How far up the spring should the chamfer go? A couple of inches?

What would be best tool to use, grinding wheel, flapper wheel, sanding disc? Any pictures to help get an idea of how much and what to do would be greatly appreciated too! Thanks!

[dave in australia]

When I did my springs, I radiused the ends and cut away sides. The radius came in about 2-3 spring thicknesses, so it wasn't a constant radius, but started shallow and then tightened as it got closer to the edge of the leaf. I used belt attachment on my 8" pedestal grinder

[Patrick L.]

Once the spring is apart you'll see what needs to be done. Just a radius on the bottom side of the leaves is all thats needed, and, you'll probably find the top side of leaves to have a several inch 'path' worn off them. The far end is usually quite abrupt and stops the next leaf from moving as far as it needs to. I just use a grinder and smooth things out.
Then I finish cleaning the leaves, sand blast, grinder or sander, add a bit of grease between leaves, assemble and then paint. Some fellas will paint them before assembly.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Personally, where I feel the majority of the work needs to be done is the top side of the leaf where the leaf above it has been riding. That area is what matters. The end edge of the leafs just needs a subtile radius put on the extreme ends of the leaf.

[Kurt in NJ]

I agree with Brent,the reason for dong the chamfering is because of the wear pocket on the top of the leaf --this wear spot is made by "normal' driving, when you hit a big bump, or have more weight in the car the spring leaf on top is forced to jump the pocket causing binding ---it can near lock the spring from having it's full travel

If you don't have shocks you want a rusty binding spring so the spring works like a friction shock ----but if you have properly working shocks you want well lubed supple springs with no binding

[Patrick L.]

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People don't read all the posts, do they.

[BudP]

A suggestion: before you attempt this dangerous job, do a search here.

And, read some technical articles on spring removal and repair, technical articles such as:
http://www.icehouse.net/overland/springspreader.html.

Or, considering purchasing a DVD on the subject, such as: http://www.management-advantage.com/...elASprings.htm

This can be the most dangerous job to do on the Model A.

Just a suggestion which I hope you perceive as friendly.

[ctlikon0712]

Here is a previous post worth reading dealing with the issue.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...t=dress+spring

[RonC]

A lot of front springs have been replaced and are not original. If not original I would replace it with a new one.

[7_Zero]

Thank you all for your help in clarifying this for me, it makes a lot more sense now. The diagram I saw made it look like the whole tip needed to be tapered to more of a fine edge, so I was not sure how extreme the tapering needed to be.

Bud, thank you for your concern, I really appreciate it! I have read how lethal the springs can be and decided I would try the front spring first. Depending on how well it goes, I might invest in a spreader to tackle the rear.

Ron, is there something wrong with the non original springs? Although it is hard to tell with the spring assembled, it does not look like there is much wear on these springs as the leaves appear to have a straight/ sharp edge on them. So I am guessing that they are not original springs.

[RonC]

There is nothing wrong aftermarket springs if they fit. I just wouldn't bother rebuilding the front ones when there are good replacements.

[7_Zero]

Pulled the spring and disassembled it. It does not look like there is much, if any, wear on the tops of the leaves. It looks like someone started chamfering but did not get very far as only a little material has been removed on just the bottom two leaves. I imagine the bottom leaves have the most travel, is it worth while to do all of the leaves or just the bottom ones?

Thanks again!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Your spring looks good, but I'd take it apart and put grease and graphite between each leaf, then wrap the spring in spring covers. The covers keep out dirt and water and hold in the lubricant.