30 ROADSTER -A hot rod in 1956 - Time for a refersh in 2012

[Flop]

Well heres another project thats going to start soon at my shop . really just a pile of parts that I need to turn back into a roadster for Jeff. No big history on the body just evidence of a 6 and a half inch channel . Jeff needs the body back together in stock form !! So I ran to Ohio to pick it up now the fun begins.

heres a few pics to get this thread started .plenty more to come once i get the wheels turning










firewalls out .



the replacement isnt pretty with a little work it will be ok



its looking like a ford factory more and more every day !

[peters180a/170b]

A early 1930 Standard.... We staying with a standard?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Pile of parts pretty much says it all!

Good Luck

[28-31]

Originally Posted by peters180a/170b

A early 1930 Standard.... We staying with a standard?

Hello, this is Jeff (owner of the pile of...parts). While it was/is a Standard, it came with Deluxe windshield stanchions, windshield frame, and top -- so, we'll see. (actually, I have some questions about the top, so I'll post pics, either here or on a separate thread, if I can't find the info I need in other threads).

While not exactly Ford Barn friendly, the plan for this one is still on the hot rod end of the spectrum -- more of how they would have done it in the late 1930's / early 1940's (fenderless, but keeping original drivetrain with vintage speed equipment added). The body, frame, suspension, etc. will all be bone stock or bolt-on period-correct parts. The body will be exactly as it rolled off the line (or as close as Tom/Flop can get it). That way if I (or any future owner) wants to go back to 100% stock, that can be done.

The focus of this thread will be Flop's miraculous transformation of the mess I handed over to him, back into a stock 1930 Roadster body.

[Uncle Bob]

Along this style?

[28-31]

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Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Along this style?

Yes - that's the basic idea.

[Flop]

well jeffs firewall came back from the blaster nice and bare.



a few pictures of the messes



not horrible by any means



i had to use a ratchet strap to actually get the firewall back together .quite the stress crack



and heres it all finished up . next is to get the subrails in order!

[28-31]

Looks great!

[Super88]

May the Force be with you!

[Tinbasher]

I have a "Door Handle". We can build a car.
Yup The Old Tinbasher

[Roadster62]

Nice project! Makes me feel bad I walked by a 30-31 Firewall last week for $20.00. Will you be rolling new quarter panel lower beads or buying them? Might ask for a pair on my body if you do. Looking forward to the projress photos. Bob

[Flop]

haha thanks super88 !

maybe just a few more parts tinbasher! maybe a rusty cowl or a decklid?

thanks roadster no rust repair on this car . its amazingly solid

heres where we are at now .

an old torch cut


i wish i knew how many spot welds and rivets ive drilled in the past few months !



firewall sitting in place



and the new subrail connectors



everything is fitting well together for being a mismash of cowl and firewall and new connectors! nothing set in stone just yet just checking fit .

[Milton]

All right, here goes another one.

[zzlegend]

Keep em coming Flop. Very interesting read.

[28-31]

For those who are interested, I had posted a while back looking for a good body shop / individual to put this car back together -- that's under a short thread titled, "Ohio Body Shop Needed - To Return 1930 Roadster Body back to Stock" (http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63825)

Obviously, I chose Flop -- and so far, he's doing a great job...as expected!

-Jeff

[Flop]

thanks guys!!





now its time to build a car!!

[WRA]

Cool.

[Flop]

this was friday nights date. getting Jeffs roadtser sitting on the frame!




surprisingly the subrails are pretty damn close and should only need some minor tweaking to get them perfectly lined up !!

everything is fitting together really nicely for being a mismash of parts

[Flop]

got a ton done on jeffs car today . I got all the places primed that will be covered by subrails . underside of the subrail connectors primed and the subframe put together for the first time with the exact measurements off of the other roadster i have in the shop right now.


had to fix a few little spots before i started on the subrails though





mesurments were

37 inches at the door pillar

31 1/16-1/8 " at the first subrail crossmember

35 7/16 " at the second crossmember

35 3/8 " at the third crossmember

[peters180a/170b]

DAMM this is really nice of you going through with pictures... Someone should ask if you do wide bed pickup rear fenders...like cutting out 2" dead center. ???

[Roadster62]

Flop, Have you ever cut out the centers of Roadster rear fenders for use on late 1931 Pickups? Peter is shy and soft spoken so I'm asking for him. Bob.

Originally Posted by peters180a/170b

DAMM this is really nice of you going through with pictures... Someone should ask if you do wide bed pickup rear fenders...like cutting out 2" dead center. ???

[28ACoupe]

The 2" section is not a particularly difficult job. If Flop doesn't have time to do them for you, I can.

[Flop]

hey Peters ! sounds like a fun project if you have some roadster fenders that need sectioned down the middle! hell maybe ill even make a few sets if there is enough demand !!


more roadster action!!

damn i love when parts fit together like they are supposed to !!

rivets ready to be set






hey look at that a roadster!!

[Roadster5040]

Very nice!!!

[28-31]

Excellent progress, Tom -- keep it up!

[kelley's restoration]

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i have a late 31 that i picked up that had suffered a simular fate
i ended up buying a complete subframe from brookville already assembles
best $460 i ever spent
made in their jig with everything rivited and frame bolt holes already installed
tk

[28ACoupe]

Hey Flop - Where did you get your subrails from?

[28-31]

Originally Posted by 28ACoupe

Hey Flop - Where did you get your subrails from?

I picked up the subrails from Snyder's (and supplied them to Flop when he picked up the rest of the body) right before I learned that Brookville sells the subrail assembly. I would have bought the assembly to save Flop some time. Live and learn. Besides, Tom is doing an amazing job with the loose rails.

[Flop]

Hey thanks Jeff!!

thanks roadster5040

didnt know they sold them put together . but it might kill ya on shipping if you couldnt pick them up at a model a parts house or swap meet.

welllllll im a weirdo and wanted to start in a particular order. so i went and got the drivers side door and though hmmm this seems heavy. started grinding leaaad lead lead lead lead .

got the torch out ... i think we need a new door skin .

[Hicktick]

That roadster must have belonged to a gangster .

A bullet proof drivers door who knew .


Just what I was tole ,,,,,,,Pops

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Flop
welllllll im a weirdo and wanted to start in a particular order. so i went and got the drivers side door and though hmmm this seems heavy. started grinding leaaad lead lead lead lead .

got the torch out ... i think we need a new door skin .

-----

I was hoping the doors would be more salvageable than that. yikes.

[Richard Wilson]

Safety Tip for the rookies..........if you are grinding or sanding LEAD (not a good ideal) be sure to wear a good respirator. Better to use a hand file to shape or, as Flop did, use a tourch to melt/remove the lead off of the panel unless you are a pro body man.

[john hamilton]

I widened the rear fenders on a 1928 AA. First I made some marks across the flange and out across the fender with a square. Then I traced the bolt flange piece on 16 guage and cut two copies.

Next I cut each fender up against the flange to cut the old rusty flange off. I copied the marks I had made on the originals on the new pieces.

Then I cut two 2" straps out of 18 guage the length of the fenders. Very carefully line up the marks with the strap between them and weld it up.

If you are careful there won't be warpage. It was one of my first welds and just a skim coat was needed. Sorry, I didn't take pictures.

[Flop]

only in a few spots hicktick!!

damn right richard . lead is no joke.use a vixen file to shape and a respirator to finish .

luckily the passenger side didn't succumb to such a horrible fate .

[Flop]

well got a lot done on the cowl today . got the firewall spot welded in and got the cowl stripped and filled in some pin holes.got a few dents out as well

spot weld holes



stripped down found some pinholes and old lead.



welded up the pin holes and figured what the hell might as well fix up the old lead work and give the work i just did a light coat




all finished up for today

[28-31]

Excellent work, Tom

[Flop]

getting there Jeff . You have once solid little roadster!!


such a solid car!! welded up 1 pin hole!! a taste of lead to fix the lead thats probably been there since 1956 and im happy with it!!

[Flop]

well got the hinges on ! this will probably be the last work for a while since i am moving shops at the end of next week . Time to start packing!!

[Roadster5040]

Thanks for pics keep Them coming

[700rpm]

You are one ambitious guy, Flop.

[Flop]

thanks roadster!

700rpm this one is pretty easy its nice and solid!! just gotta put it together

had to put it all back together after the move .. soon its going from the frame to the body cart

[Flop]

onto the drivers door!!

a mess



cracks in the hinge areas





annnd some rot!

[28-31]

The new shop space looks great, Tom!

Glad to see you're back at the Roadster. Ought to be done with it in a week or so, right? ;-)

I knew the driver's door was bad -- but it looks awful in the photos. Is the passenger door still looking to be in better condition, or have you uncovered some hidden treasures on that one too?

-Jeff

[juke joint johnny]

Your doing a great job there Flop !!
I have a 30 roadster with rotten subrails so this thread is of great interest to me.

What tools do you use to set those rivets in the subrail ?
Do you heat the rivets first or leave them cold ?

Thanks for sharing your expertise

John Cochran

[Flop]

hey jeff ! passenger looks pretty good even after some digging ! I think the drivers door is so bad because of use and abuse.

the roadster is all subframed up!!



cracks stripped





tiged and smoothed



not an expert by any means juke joint but thanks ! These rivets are acting as fancy spot welds I burn them in with the tig as Jeff and I talked about when I first picked up his roadster!

[28-31]

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Excellent work, as always. Think it will take a lot to get the driver-side inner door structure to mate up to the new door skin?

[Gumpy]

when you say burn the rivets in with a tig welder could this work on the door been done with a mig welder and what heat range? thx gump

[Flop]

the skins are nice jeff. did a set of 29 roadster doors and they looked great .

gumpy the tig actually melts the rivet into the parent metal . where as a mig will just add metal to the outside leaving a big lump .

on the fence about using this panel under the decklid pinholes everywhere some rot i cut out . i think its gonna be easier (time wise) to re skin and use the orig inner structure. I already chased some pin holes around while trying to weld them up .



put a door on





next onto the triangle pieces onto the rear quarters





and how much the repops are off compared to orig ones

[JimK1930A]

Thank you for showing us the pictures of your project.
You sure do fine and very detailed work.
Please continue taking pictures and show us the progression of your project.
Jim Kelly,
Minneapolis, MN

[Flop]

thanks jim !
pictures always help in my book so i figured this can help someone out down the line putting a car back together

early Monday morning work



once again removing the triangles



and how much this side is off



just realized there was a patch panel here as well . I dont know how i missed it .

[28-31]

Excellent progress, Tom. I'm surprised I missed the patch panel too. Hope there aren't many more surprises like that.

[P.S.]

None of my business (feel free to tell me so).... Curious what the bill for this work is so far, as as you progress, please.

[28-31]

Originally Posted by PaulShinn

None of my business (feel free to tell me so).... Curious what the bill for this work is so far, as as you progress, please.

Hi, Paul:

I'm the one paying the bills. I'm not too comfortable talking real numbers for this specific project, but suffice it to say that between the original purchase, additional original and/or new parts and sheet metal needed, and Flop's shop time, in the end I'll have more in it than a Brookville body. I simply saw a worn out Roadster and wanted to bring it back from the dead.

-Jeff

[Flop]

In the end Jeff we are bringing back a roadster that has soul!! Every time i look at that Feb 1956 inside the quarter it really makes me happy to be bringing it back to life!!

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by 28-31

Hi, Paul:

I'm the one paying the bills. I'm not too comfortable talking real numbers for this specific project, but suffice it to say that between the original purchase, additional original and/or new parts and sheet metal needed, and Flop's shop time, in the end I'll have more in it than a Brookville body. I simply saw a worn out Roadster and wanted to bring it back from the dead.

-Jeff

You're a good man.

[Flop]

there is something missing .



filled in some blanks . gonna grind the welds tomorrow



epoxy primer on the inside of the new skin



tomorrow they get stuck together!

[Flop]

alot done today !

its like a new door!






and the new skin on !



now we are getting somewhere




also deskinned the panel under the decklid and got it in primer

[28-31]

It's come a long way, Tom -- excellent work -- keep it up!

[FastForwardFlattie]

Really nice work! Very inspiring to see this come back to life.

[329s]

ABSOLUTLY AMAZING!...And to think, most of us would look at something like that (before restoration) and just turn our backs.

As I have said before...you are amazing when it comes to sheet metal work!

"not an expert by any means juke joint but thanks"...Are you kidding us Flop! !

Pluck

[Flop]

we are getting there Jeff!! found some goodies for you today at canfield


thanks flattie! im serious 329 i have a ways to go!! but thank you!!

an older repop panel for below the decklid . not anyway like the ones they sell now



i put Jeffs orig inners in it and i think this ones gonna fit like a glove!!



no weird twists or turns and an even gap on the bottom of the subrail im excited!1

[Roadster62]

Funny just yesterday I was looking at the rear panel for my Roadster, is that one you have a Brookville item? Bob

[28-31]

"no weird twists or turns and an even gap on the bottom of the subrail im excited!"

Looks great -- good score.

Are you patching in the original stock features to the passenger's door or were they simply leaded-in and you're just un-doing that? Looked to me like at least the side curtain post hole had been cut or ground-down before it was leaded (or otherwise filled-in).

[Flop]

no idea where its from roadster 62


jeff i have a few old skins laying around but i will send you an email in the interest of time vs orig henry steel !


it was a rough week of this



but damn am i glad to be back to work !!

made the inner bracing today for the panel under the decklid



nows its looking like something !! ordered the new brackets that go behind the door pillar from brookville



a nice fit !!



and the door fits well

[Roadster62]

Once all the panels are fit do you plan to beadblast or DA everything? Bob

[28-31]

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Originally Posted by Roadster62

Once all the panels are fit do you plan to beadblast or DA everything? Bob

We haven't really discussed yet what condition I want the surface to be in when the assembly is finished. The firewall was media blasted, but not sure what we'll do about the rest of the panels. I'll definitely want them taken to bare metal and at least primer applied before the transport back to Ohio.

Flop claims he doesn't paint customer cars -- we'll see about that :-)

[Flop]

even if it doesnt get bead blasted while in my hands all the panels that are spot wleded or bolted together are wire wheeled da-ed or ground and primered!

i might take you up on that paint jeff!!

well i put a door skin on the passenger side today as it would save about 6 hours of work total in the end betwen metal work and body work .

turns out jeff had a badly bent hinge as well if you notice the gap





notice the gap after a little work with a big pair of channel locks



i couldn't be happier with this roadster and the way its fitting together like a jig saw puzzle .

[Roadster62]

^^^^^^ To me this area on a 30-31 Roadster deserves a lot of time and fitting. Door, lower stantion, and the cross piece that goes under the windsheild. You can eat up a fair amount of time, but it is the place I personally look at on a finished car. Don't forget those lead spacers, Snyders sells them. Project looks great, I''ll get back to mine after Hershey. Bob

[martyndj]

hi flop, i really like seeing your work on this roadster. i'am at the same point on my 31. i was hoping to get from you the door hinge bolt hole locations on the cowl side. i had to replace everything. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Flop]

hey marty thanks! do you need the measurements still?

this roadster is solid!!!

2 pinholes and 3 stres cracks !!





a little mess from the old channel job



patch seems a little big!





nothing exciting here



got it filled in but forgot the after picture

before



a little after action



i love the way this car fits together

[28-31]

Excellent work -- as always! I didn't think the quarter brackets would be salvageable -- great repair. It's really coming together.

[Flop]

thanks Jeff!!

a little arts and crafts here today . i wanted to make a patch panel for the passenger side quarter



heres what i can up with after a little work





fitted up !!



now i gotta fire up the tig



took the bracket off for that rivets to the subframe



now its getting there!!

[28-31]

Excellent progress -- keep it up. Guess I need to get going on the chassis!

[Flop]

getting closer Jeff!

well the panel above the decklid needs some work... looks like at one time someone had some 47 chevy style hinges on it and changed it to a decklid instead of a rumble . boy that really stretched it to hell!





brasssssssss my enemy!

[Model A Fan]

I've been following this build/rebuild for a bit. Did you un-rivet the panels and then clean them? I have a roadster that I am working on that I am going to need to clean up a bit to get all the rust and whatnot off of. What do you use to cut the metal when making a patch panel?

[Flop]

model a fan

as of yet i have not unspot welded the panel since it was really really stretched.

i make my cut for patch panels with a standard cutting wheel on a 4 and a half inch grinder

this panel was really really really stretched from the decklid hinges being bolted to it




really dont want to think of how many shrinks are in it

[dumb person]

How do you shrink it? Do you use heat?

[28-31]

In my opinion, that was the worst panel on the whole car (in terms of damage) and your repairs are nothing short of fantastic.

[Flop]

dumb you shrink with heat . either a torch ,shrinking disc or stud gun .

well back on it ! Jeff stopped by with his dad this weekend and check out the car . glad he got to see it in person finally!!

messed with the gaps on the drivers door tonight and got it fitting pretty well






then i decided to tack in the handmade patch i made for the drivers side.



back at it tomorrow!

[FordMike]

I greatly admire your work Flop! If you're ever looking for an apprentice, I'll be at your shop the next day!

Seriously though, amazing work as always, I'd kill to be able to see it in person

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by FordMike

I greatly admire your work Flop! If you're ever looking for an apprentice, I'll be at your shop the next day!

Me too.

So i tried shrinking with the only source of heat i had, a MIG welder. It left hard spots that make hammering awkward. i like your methods better.

[28-31]

Was great to see the car (and Flop's Shop) in person! Great set-up -- the shop looks like it's straight out of the 40s/50s.

The car is looking pretty good too -- has come a long way.

Question: There were 4 holes in that panel above the rumble decklid that Tom did an excellent job bringing back from the dead. The holes were evenly spaced in a rectangular pattern and had been filled-in, presumably during the original hot rod mods in the 50's. If the attached picture works, you can see what I mean on a finished Roadster -- anyone know what those are for? Maybe bumpers/support for the rear window when the top is down?

Anyone know whether all 1930 Roadsters had them? ...or just Deluxe? or they were an option? I have seen photos of 1930 Roadsters with and without these. I'm trying to decide whether Flop should re-drill them on my car (the one he's working on in this thread) or leave them welded closed.

Thanks!

-Jeff

[Richard Wilson]

Those rubber bumpers support the rear window glass when the top is down.

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Richard Wilson

Those rubber bumpers support the rear window glass when the top is down.

Great - thanks

Did every Roadster come with them?

[Flop]

cant shrink with the mig welder person .


interesting stuff Jeff! I will leave the holes in the other roadster until we figure out what we are going to do with yours!




half way through welding the quarter in






and from the back




finished up the panel then burned some lead out of the bead




getting back into shape one panel at a time!!

[28-31]

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Excellent repair, Tom. I'm still surprised we both missed the original repair at first. Now, it's like the damage never even happened.

[Flop]

thats the way I like to do it Jeff!

put the triangle braces in this morning



green lines are stress cracks .

i welded them after the braces were in just incase the weld penetration prevented the pieces from sitting together nicely



a little tig work



i cannot get over the fit of this panel !



uncovering some old work



some old lead i dug out






does anyone have the measurement for the holes that go in the belt line behind the door?

[28-31]

I love to see the continued progress! Excellent work, as always.

"does anyone have the measurement for the holes that go in the belt line behind the door? " -- I take it they aren't in that other Roadster anymore for some reason?

[Flop]

thanks Jeff

old holes were filled in that car a long time ago as well


well on Jeffs car i got to work on the beltline

cut out the big hunk of brass



and filled in the hole with some sheetmetal



the top was pretty rough where they shaved the reveal where the tab comes through for the top



so i made up a new piece



after some welding and filing i am pretty pleased with it

[28-31]

Looks great -- can't wait to see how you replicate the reveal / opening for the top tab.

[Flop]

well this is how i made the reveal for the top tab

really nothing fancy and reallly close to looking stock



cut it put it in the vice to straighten it out and tacked it together



after it was tigged in



alot of work in this little area to get it back to looking right

[28-31]

Very cool -- your idea or you steal that from someone?

[Flop]

Ive never seen this area repaired before Jeff , and I didnt feel like making a hammerform to press the shape into some sheetmetal. So with the help of 1/8th inch steel rod we now have something that looks like it should have been there all along !

[zzlegend]

Excellent,,,,,,,,Great work Flop.

[road_king]

Hey Flop thanks for sharing progress.. when you make your lower patch panels do you use a custom made die or one that came with a standard bead roller?

Thanks

[Flop]

thanks zzlegend

roadking no problem ! its a modified step die from harbor freight



wheel wells




old rot



a little shrinker work has a new panel made up in no time



gonna finish the welding up today and put the break on the bottom !

[Flop]

wheel well finished up !!!

[QGolden]

Nice! Is that Frame as solid and rust free as it looks? I am referring to the photo in post 19 on the first page of this build.

[Flop]

yeah its a damn nice frame . sqaure within 3/16ths of an inch .no pitting .


well messed with the floor a bit since i ran out of argon sunday morning




also put rivets in where they are supposed to be on the repop panel to give it a little more in the looks dept







and the passenger side just about finished up

[Rusty Karz]

I wanted to thank you for taking the time to post these pictures and text. It is good to see nice work and the techniques you have employed as you proceed. You have used some very clever solutions and I'm sure most people who follow this thread will be making notes for future reference. I sure am.

[28-31]

It's amazing how far it's come -- looks great, Tom!

[Flop]

no problem rusty!! also gives folks a view on what is actually involved before someone wants to dig into a car for the first time!!

moving right along jeff!

drivers wheel well done !

still needs sanded out though







soon to the sand blaster!! then primer!! then a little surprise!!

[ratamahata]

Hey Flop great to see your work, I'm a carpenter but I have some metal friends enjoyed your awesome work, thanks for the education!!

[QGolden]

Hey Flop, would it be possible to do a couple of photos of you making some of the Patches, as in measuring, shaping, bead rolling and fitting.

Thank you fir your efforts to share. This is huge and very much appreciated.

[Flop]

thanks rata !!

Qgolden if you check out the thread i posted about my coupe there are some recent photos of me making the lower quarter patch. and not a problem posting the pics!!

[QGolden]

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Originally Posted by Flop

thanks rata !!

Qgolden if you check out the thread i posted about my coupe there are some recent photos of me making the lower quarter patch. and not a problem posting the pics!!

Thank you! Now I have two threads to subscribe to. Great information, thank you for this documentation.

Someone should shadow you with a camera and write a book on vintage tin restoration.

[BCCHOPIT]

look-in good keep it up....

[lance leblanc]

Flop,

Just so you know,

"Your threads are the single most motivating thing I have found to drive me to spend more time in my garage working on my Tudor. My friend, if that was your intention you have over-achieved. Thank you".

[Flop]

thanks guys i appreciate and glad it motivates you to get out and work on your cars !! after these 3 are finished I have a line of newer cars coming up . and by new i mean 32 and 34 fords but atleast ill still be on the barn!

well there is nothing else to do thanksgiving morning ... how bout some welding?

once again shaved top mounting tab and hole





the patch .

cant get away with a straight piece you have to shrink it a little to get the curve





and all welded up / didnt finish it off yet due to having to work on the area below!

[Flop]

getting rid of the warped and brazed in snap holes. this should be easy right?



nooooo !! that edge that was covered in primer was full of lead and brass



pre post surgery haha welds are pitted from the brass



and should be all tied together this afternoon!

[gweilbaker]

Man, that looks like thin metal!

[BretL]

Hi. I've been following your postings on this site for some time now. Amazing metalworking skills! Since you obviously know what you're doing, could I ask a question? I am working on a '29 Roadster and am at the point of stripping old paint from the body, so am trying to find info regarding blasting versus dipping. Everyone has an opinion. You always mention sandblasting. Is that the best way to go? Is it actually sand or some type of media like plastic or soda? My car has very little rust so I mainly want to remove paint inside and out.

[Spooky Two]

I too wanted to share my thanks and gratitude for what you FLOP have shared. I am about to embark upon many of the same challenges. These I will be encountering on my 1929 Roadster. With bad doors and rotted sub-rails I feel that your approach was most apparent and sensible for their fitment. I have a stock and true frame for an alignment jig, but my heart will eventually push for '32 frame. I suppose at that hurtle I will then just rework the sub rail/channels of a aligned and solid body to channel 5/8" to set upon the '32??
Thanks to continue to share what you can... S2

[Flop]

gweilbaker equals out to be about 20 gauge !!

Bret .. Thanks!!
The guy I go to uses sand nothing special .He has finer sand and a more coarse sand . Everyone makes a great fuss about what people use . I have never had a warped panel and the metal is always spotless. I think it all depends on who is doing your work just like every other specialized task !

Thanks alot !! I am glad it helps out spooky !

I too have a roadster that is going on a 32 frame .you have to rework the subrails for the kick up and then re attach to the lower crossmember.


now we are getting somewhere !!





a little welding!





and the new gap . it will need a little clean up but i think it will turn out nice !



top tab reveal tomorrow !!

[Flop]

top reveal is done and the tab is through! All major sheetmetal work in finished to the blaster next week !

[zzlegend]

Great job Flop. I enjoy following your progress reports and pictures. Hope you keep us informed on your next project.

[roadster31]

Fop, If I win the lottery you'd better clear the shop (I guess I'd have to buy a ticket) I'll bring down a flat fendered Power Wagon, have you cut it down the middle to widen it by a foot to make it fit on a rolling chassis with a Cumins and a 6 speed Allison -- then I could pull a fleet of Model A's. OK, enough dreaming, nice job on the roadster. E LaBrash

[Flop]

thanks zz plenty coming in !! i need more hours in the day !!

did ya win roadster31?!?!

i like the way this one fits!



brassss

[Flop]

back in the truck

[Flop]

well I was super excited to get the subframe and floor together today on Jeffs roadster.... guess who ran out of rivets?!?!

[28-31]

Final Assembly -- glad to see it has begun!

Can't wait to see the rest of the sheetmetal when it's back from the blaster.

[Flop]

Jeffs roadster is getting picked up on monday from the blaster !! :

[Flop]

thats a whole lotta ford!



the roadster is back in a pile!!



clean clean clean metal



and we couldn't erase history!!

[28-31]

I never thought I would ever see it that clean -- looks good.

Here's hoping there are no new surprises, now that there's nothing left to hide old damage/repairs!

[PeteVS]

So, does the blasted metal get sanded smooth before paint, or does a high build primer take care of the texture? I'm amazed at what you've been able to do!

[1931 flamingo]

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Looks like the cab in post#123 has seen better days. Are you going to resurrect that one also?? Pictures of it would be interesting even though it's not an A.
Paul in CT

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Looks like the cab in post#123 has seen better days. Are you going to resurrect that one also?? Pictures of it would be interesting even though it's not an A.
Paul in CT

I had assumed that it was the cab that was in the truck in post #119 and that for some reason, it came back unblasted but now, I see otherwise. Must have done a swap?

[Flop]

Thanks Pete. I will take some 80 grit by hand to knock the edge off then it will get epoxy primer .

1931 flamingo this is a 32 ford

the other cab is still at the blasters... he is swamped with work should be picking it up soon!

[buddridge]

Hey, if you decide to off the deluxe top and irons call me at 631-335-8260 I'm interested. Thanks Bud

[Flop]

well after a few snags we are back in business on the roadster!!


before I get to primer i like the customer to really see whats going on



and the doors





panel under decklid



and the quarter!!



dash rail



i always try to get all the heavy hitting out of the way before primer . so the lip needed to be put back into place!







package tray and inner bracing for the panel under the decklid!



and some more quarter action!




cowl and decklid will be finished up tomorrow!!

[dumb person]

Look at it now! So tidy. (But the firewall pictures way back in post #7 are a little confusing, noticed the hole appears to change position)

[Weaponsusmc]

Amazing work.

[Vin-tin]

Hey Flop,
Outstanding workmanship...as always.

Obviously your blaster guy knows what he's doing. The panels came out great. Dou you know what blasting material he uses and at what pressure.

Keep the pictures and tech coming flop. You're the best teacher I (we) have on this old tin.

[28-31]

Originally Posted by dumb person

Look at it now! So tidy. (But the firewall pictures way back in post #7 are a little confusing, noticed the hole appears to change position)

Flop was working on two different firewalls -- the first one (stacked up with the other firewalls) is Flop's. The second one is mine -- for the Roadster. Both needed the heater hole area patched.

[Flop]

as Jeff said ... 2 different firewalls !

thanks weapon !

vin tin . thats why is use him he understands whats going on ! he uses sand. no idea what psi he blasts at .he has a room as large as my whole shop for just blasting .

a few more views of Jeffs roadster before it gets covered in Primer this week!!





and the cowl !

[28-31]

All looks great!

What does the blaster do to protect areas like the inside of the gas tank? What do you do, to get all remaining media out of any areas that might still be holding sand (not limited to the gas tank, although that is arguably the most important)?

[Flop]

Hey Jeff .The tank was taped off . Everything else gets blown off with air then hit with prep sol !

[Spooky Two]

Flop, your work is just stunning!!
From what you began with, and havin' taken it through such tedious process's. And now back from the blaster and with all your 80 grit hand rubbing and cleaning. I mean to say, knowing this stuff is meant back as a car, but what good shop and wall art any of these peices would be. Well, I suposes for a short time now they have been just that, great over-in-the-corner art or placed-on-a-counter-top art.We're all talking about it art.
Fact is this is DAMN GOOD WORK. And thanks so much for sharing, S2

[Tinbasher]

Keep up the Great work!! Nice to see.

The Old Tinbasher

[Flop]

spooky I cant thank you enough for the kind words!!!


thanks tinbasher!!!

some epoxy primer on today !!!

its nice to see it an actual color ..well its still grey but atleast it has some shine!!!

[28-31]

Looks great! It's come a long way since I pulled it out of a barn loft in pieces.

[Flop]

its time to build a car!!!


please excuse the mangled /ill fitting decklid from my coupe filling the decklid hole in the other roadster

[28-31]

It's hard to believe thet sheet metal is actually back to factory spec -- considering what you started with!

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Flop

interesting stuff Jeff! I will leave the holes in the other roadster until we figure out what we are going to do with yours!

Flop -- Let's go ahead and drill these holes in the factory location. If you need a refresher about which I'm talking about, see Posts #82, 83, and 84 to this thread -- as well as a separate thread titled, "30 / 31 Roadster Top - rear glass bumpers/rests - QUESTION"

Thanks, -Jeff

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Flop

well got a lot done on the cowl today ...

...

stripped down found some pinholes and old lead.



welded up the pin holes and figured what the hell might as well fix up the old lead work and give the work i just did a light coat




all finished up for today

Flop -- I'm not positive, but I think the hole at the bottom of the cowl where the cowl trim strip mounts was originally larger, and the 1956 hotrodders filled-in part of it with lead. Let's put that mounting hole back to factory size, if possible. Hopefully that feature on that other Roadster is still intact, or even on another circa '30 Model A project in your shop. Thanks! -Jeff

[28-31]

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Originally Posted by Flop

on the fence about using this panel under the decklid pinholes everywhere some rot i cut out . i think its gonna be easier (time wise) to re skin and use the orig inner structure. I already chased some pin holes around while trying to weld them up .

-----

Sorry about all of the posts in a row, fellas -- I just like the idea of keeping all build progress and decisions in one place.

-----
Tom -- Assuming the circular hole in the center of this panel from below the rumble lid is stock (I believe it has something to do with rear spare tire mount -- FordBarners, please confirm or correct me!), let's go ahead and drill that into the new panel. As with everything else, I'm trying to get all panels back to factory spec, so when in doubt, that's the way to go. Thanks, -Jeff

[Flop]

it will all be back to normal jeff no worries

well its been a while a small vacation and this guy have turned things upside down for a little bit !




it was a welcome break . I feel refreshed and even more excited about work !!

starting to get the subframe back together

rivets in but now actually riveted !!



comparing repop stuff to orig roadster stuff to see what needs modified !

[28-31]

Looks good! Nice to see some final assembly.

[d.j. moordigian]

Flop,

You, or someone else in this thread made mention of fixing the dies on the
bead roller. What's wrong with them and what is the fix? A friend gave me
an almost new one from HF, I'd like too know beforehand! Making new dies,
( If the bead roller itself is good ) is no problem. Ya...I guess I'm asking for
a tutorial on this thing....if you would. Thanks for the information.

Dudley

[Flop]

thanks Jeff!! me too !

dudley the bead roller needs bracing . the hand crank needs replaced with a steering wheel. i modified the dies to have the same profile as a model a body line. all of the crap fasteners also need replaced !


back of the rear seat riser



the whole shebang!!



really coming together now !

[d.j. moordigian]

Flop,

Thank you for the information.

Dudley

[switchkid0]

As a quick side note, a Google search on "Harbor Freight Bead Roller" yields a great deal of reading. Bracing, converting to power, and custom dies.
Another great resource is http://www.homemadetools.net/.

[frenchy dehoux]

Nice project I will be following this one.

Frenchy

[Flop]

no problem dudley !! its a fine piece once you put some time into it !!


thanks frenchy!!

got a little more done on the subframe!!





next to make the last panel look the part

[Flop]

well something seems to be missing here!



how could they have forgotten these!!??



since i couldnt straighten the repop pieces break out i decided to make a new piece to weld it . i will put the breaks in it tomorrow and start welding!!




uhhhoh!!

[Flop]

well we put in the break and did some tig welding!!



tacked


and welded



still a few details left i want to put into the panel !

[zzlegend]

I tune in to this more than Duck Dynasty. Great work Flop. And thanks for keeping us updated.

[Flop]

thanks ZZ!!!


Well it wouldnt be complete with out the beads on the sides !. I needed to figure out a way to end the beads like ford did on the sides of this panel so I made a simple form out of wood !



and here is my end result



hopefully it gets riveted in today !!

[fordcoupe]

Great job great work Flop thanks for posting update i have been watching this from the start.

[Flop]

thanks fordcoupe!!! i appreciate you keepin track!!


A bunch of working making the repop parts look better but now we are getting somewhere!!

[Flop]

well the subframe is pretty much finished up ...minus a few brackets ... thats next !!

well i got ahold of a nice henry bracket that rivets to the curved panel and bolts through the spare tire holder!



sometimes you have to use some odd pieces to align the panels !!



and the curved piece in place with the bracket riveted on





the whole deal !!






I know I started a thread about screws > An oval head was there from the factory but I found a truss head with the same dimensions !! So i bought them and they do the job nicely !! Not points correct but they look the part well !!

[Flop]

into epoxy primer





the curved panel isnt bolted down thats why the lip is in the air



all one color !

[zzlegend]

Very nice job Flop. Keep the pics and the updates coming. Mark.

[Flop]

thanks ZZ!!

stanchions gotta fit right ! kinda look sloppy here





with a little work



gaps gaps gaps

[Flop]

brass stanchion?



a little different compared to the steel one on the drivers side and seems to a little worse off in the fit dept .







setting a few last rivets



a single color and its starting to resemble a car!

[dumb person]

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Inspiring stuff. Was the windshield thing repaired with brazing?

[Elcastor]

When I retired, I should have attended the Flop School of Manufacturing and Restoring!!!!! I am very impressed with the quality of work!

[Roadster62]

Flop, Great work as always. I've always wondered just how well the gaps were from the factory around door tops, lower stantion, and dash rail? Bob

[Flop]

thanks Dumb . That is a factory piece we believe .

thanks elcastor!!

I always wondered the same thing Bob ! thanks again !!







so i did a little tapping to get a better fit of the corner...she was thin !



also trimmed a little more to get a nicer fit







moving along now !

[28-31]

Simply amazing -- bet it hasn't looked this good, since it was first cut-up in the '50s.

[Flop]

its been a while since it looked anything like this Jeff!!

moving along!!



time to fight the rumble lid !

[Flop]

well it took a little battling but it fit in its hole relatively well.

[lookin-backtexas]

Flop:
Why does the driver's door have four large holes and the passenger door have only three? Just curious.
Fred

[dumb person]

Looks like you manufacture old fords lol

[1931 flamingo]

Looks like a Model A Body Shop in the above post ! Neat! !
Paul in CT

[Flop]

lookinback that i do not know the answer to that. both roadster have the same thing. so it wasn't an individual case.

dumb thats an understatement!!

thanks Paul !!



brookville ,brattons and 31ster here on the fordbarn came through with the parts!!



getting everything lined up






they are not the ovals ford had in them but they served their purpose. well at least the top and bottom holes





dash rail . had a pretty big dent so that came back off






curved panel with rumble stops installed



package tray sitting in place . also borrowed some door handles to set the holes and d nuts!





also faced the bolts to remove marking so they look more original .



does anyone know why Henry used some square nuts and some regular nuts ? or some square nuts been replaced?

[Flop]

frames here!!



frame is within an 1/8th o an inch of square and no noticeable sag !



a few tiny messes





and some screws



first time on a frame and completely together is 40 plus years !!



cleaning day with the giant was today !!

[Banky]

Flop, you need to date it again! For future generations....

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Banky

Flop, you need to date it again! For future generations....

Great minds, Banky! ...that's already in the works. We're going to add the month and year to the same location on the driver's side -- either while it's at Flop's shop or whenever I get the rest of the car together.

It was going to be "Dec 2012", since that's when the major work really took shape, but I'm not sure what date will go there now. We'll see...

[28-31]

Flop -- It almost looks weird sitting on an actual frame! ...but I'll get used to it ;-)

[jimz31]

What a transformation!

One heck of a job Flop!

Simply amazing!

[Garychinook]

I'm so grateful for your posting as I am a neubie to Model As and am in the midst of replacing the floor pans in a 31 rdstr that was cheaply restored some 15 or so years ago. Thanks a ton.

I honor your craftsmanship!

Any tips on fitting a repro curved panel? Mine fits like s---. I noticed in your photo that maybe mine is curved wrong. It appears that the curve is not of a single radius. It sort of looks like it is more straight as it departs from the top edge of the outside panel and then the radius sharpens more towards the bottom of the curve thereby creating the lower dip that then ascends to the seat flange. My seat flange won't sit flat and there doesn't appear to be enough material to massage so there is a dip. I'm about ready to break out the tig.

Also, so all of the curved panel including the stops is screwed in? Slotted round head w/ square nuts? Lockwawas?

Thanks again,

Gary

[montanafordman]

Not meaning to thread drift here, but how ya doing flop? Are you able to get some work done in the shop yet or are you still on the mend? I hope the boredom hasn't killed you yet! We miss seeing your craftsmanship and hope you're doing better!

[Flop]

well i finally did some work after i had some work done on myself of course!!



a whole load of cracks!!



and we are all smoothed out ! feels good to be back !

[todd3131]

Flop you could of just use some screws and a plate on the cross member.
worked on you arm didn't it?

Glad to see you back we have missed you.
Todd

[gweilbaker]

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Hey Flop,
With that arm hardware, could you tune in radio stations like Gilligan's tooth?
The x-member looks good.

[QGolden]

Glad your back at it! That x-ray looks a little like a patch I found on the inside of a B Pillar on a 41 Dodge I once had.

[pat59]

Nice work Flop! I found your measurements thanks. That'll help.
-Pat

[lookin-backtexas]

Flop:
Are you still able to go through airport security with the "arm hardware"? Glad to see you're back at the shop doing what you love.
Fred

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Nice work as usual Flop!
What are you going to use for the drain holes in the curved pan?

[charles=fla]

if ya have any left over parts..i need a 30 roadster,drivers side,,,door..fair/poor condition ok..thanks..Charles..)..

[28-31]

Small Update:

Frame repairs are done and it's looking good -- maybe a little too good!

Flop will be delivering the frame back to my place to install the running gear/suspension -- and then it's back to his shop for final fitting of the body.

We're getting there -- slowly, but surely.

-Jeff

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by peters180a/170b

A early 1930 Standard.... We staying with a standard?

Not to hijack the thread which is about a great build, but the cowl sides look like a later version with the full rib to retain the cowl band. I thought the very early 1930 did not have a rib, rather square holes for studs, the next version had 3 or 4 short ribs between the holes, then last the version pictured.

[28-31]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Not to hijack the thread which is about a great build, but the cowl sides look like a later version with the full rib to retain the cowl band. I thought the very early 1930 did not have a rib, rather square holes for studs, the next version had 3 or 4 short ribs between the holes, then last the version pictured.

Karl,

You could be right. Since you read the whole thread, I'm sure you saw that this roadster started as a basket case/Frankenstein project. It wouldn't surprise me at all if even the original portions of the body were a mixture of all '30 variations.

-Jeff

[Brent]

Any updates? This roadster is superb.

[frenchy dehoux]

Bitchen car nice work.

Frenchy

[Flop]

Off to Colorado ... That's all she wrote .