Harmon Collins Rotors ?????

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I have 5 Harmon Collins here at the shop going together for customers. Looks like two of them need a new replacement rotor. They are beyond repair etc ( one is totally missing ) any one hiding a couple you would like to trade for some work or sell outright????

[russcc]

Jim. probably not much response because as I understand it, there aren't any, anymore.
Whoever could mold up quality replacement rotors would have the world by the shorthairs. I'll take a couple for mine.
Maybe we should do a Fordbarn query to see how many are needed. GIve us a talking point if we find someone to mold them up.

[bart78]

My family's busines has a lot of injection molding done. I don't know how many they have to do to do it. But they do good work. They mold our rod guides.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would like to find a spare or two myself, but in reality, finding someone willing to tool up an HC rotor and make the small quantity to fill the pipeline of real need, might be more difficult than finding Jimmy Hoffa's body.

[Charlie ny]

Jim,
Dennis Carpenter would be prospect.....his business started with inj molding
dash knobs.
Hmmm tooling cost est $15000....sell price $100 each.....firm orders for 200
would cover the margin and overhead....maybe.
Back in the day there was no such a thing as CAD-CAM.....today it might be
possible to knock these things out from high dialectric 'plastic' round stock...blank
them out on big multi axis HARDINGE chucker and then on to a comp mill.
I'm dreamin'.
Charlie ny

[PeterC]

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Sounds like a perfect part for the new computerized 3D "printers"

Originally Posted by bart78

My family's business has a lot of injection molding done. I don't know how many they have to do to do it. But they do good work. They mold our rod guides.

[1963turnerjohn]

I need 2 H&C rotors for my cars and would cover the cost if $100 ea

[bart78]

My understanding about 3D printing. Is its not that durable. One of the biggest cost of injection molding. Is color. We went from having blue guides to black. The cost had gone through the roof. The way we did all this. We had the molds made. We own them. And the company uses them to make the parts. We can take the molds any time and use another company.

[32phil]

I'll take 2 rotors and 2 inner caps as well.

[alchemy]

I have an extra rotor. But the day I sell it I'll find out that the rotor in my distributor is no good.

I'm also up for some new $100 rotors. Who's gonna make em?

[JM 35 Sedan]

Well, so far from these responses we could probably place an order for maybe a dozen pieces . The tooling required to make this part in a thermo-set plastic material with insert capabilities for brass terminals/contacts, plus the expense of tooling the brass terminals and contacts, would be quite expensive. I think this would wind up costing way more than $100.00 per rotor, but lets keep dreaming

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Well i had to ask didnt i????

[rotorwrench]

There is an outfit that goes by the name Protomold that will do small runs of plastic parts but whether they can do it like it should be, I don't know. The cost may be out of sight.

A person that has access to a milling machine might be able to make some out of glass reinforced phenolic plastic block (Glass reinforced Bakelite) but it would take some time to figure how to get the brass parts to stay in place and fit a carbon brush.

Accell uses alkyd molding compound ( a polyester based plastic) to form their caps & rotors but Echlin's mix of a similar polyester compound has glass fiber and mica in there for a better dielectric. These are all thermosetting type plastics that are generally pressure molded. It's too bad someone didn't make something similar that could be adapted to work.

The other option would be to make them look original but function as an HEI type setup. That old Chevy stuff works real good. Most folks agree they work as good or better than any magneto does.

[FlatheadTed]

send me a sample ,Broken one ?

[russcc]

Flathead Ted. I will check with Pat Mason, at MRI and see if he has one that is not fixable. Many times cracked or broken ones can be put back together with epoxy. If he has one, and wants to part with it I will email you. Pat would likely be good for a few also, as he is repairs, buys and sells vintage ignition systems like H&C, Spalding and Scintilla Vertex, for whom he worked in the past. Come to think of it, we just sold a late '40's Spalding ignition that used a stock Ford rotor with an extra contact attached to it. Have to check with the buyer and see if we can get photo of it unless someone on the barn has one.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by alchemy

I have an extra rotor. But the day I sell it I'll find out that the rotor in my distributor is no good.

I'm also up for some new $100 rotors. Who's gonna make em?

Will these work?



I've got a mold made....needs finishing touches. There are just some samples I made up in black bakelite. A friend emailed this post and I we put this one together yesterday so maybe there's hope.

[FlatheadTed]

Looks like an original one .to me

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Looks like an original one .to me

The one on the right is. The black one is mine, I was going to put the harmon collins writing on it but with copyright law it would really stink to put all that work to end up with a lawsuit....so, it (the black one) is as identical as possible.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

The one on the right is. The black one is mine, I was going to put the harmon collins writing on it but with copyright law it would really stink to put all that work to end up with a lawsuit....so, it (the black one) is as identical as possible.

SHOW US THE BOTTOM, THE TOP LOOKS GOOD......

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

SHOW US THE BOTTOM, THE TOP LOOKS GOOD......

Had to post as attachment, in the shop today. Hope it helps....

The scariest part was making sure the inner dimensions were precise. Big sigh of relief getting that right. They fit like a glove.

[FlatheadTed]

looks the part .

[DzusFast]

Well, thought I'd at least post what I have to see if anybody actually needed any. Nothing worse than having a dead horse in the stable.....

[KiWinUS]

Put me on the list for 1 or 2 please !!!
they look magnificent !!!
Thank you so much !!!
Cheers
Tony Price

[NealinCA]

Please let us know the details, I would be interested in a couple.

Thanks,

Neal

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by NealinCA

Please let us know the details, I would be interested in a couple.

Thanks,

Neal

The details.... the project started over a year ago in solidworks. (a cad/cam program) made the mold and materials then interest was lost. Charlie ny isn't far off on the cost. I'd like to see enough orders to help fill that gap and I'd be happy to finish the tooling and make a small run. I'd really like to do them in tan color, the material wasn't available when the sample run was made.


The screw will be replaced with a brass rivet. Also, the brass terminals will be stamped... this one was fashioned by hand.

I added this picture to show more detail:

[barnfind08]

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Put me down for a couple.

[Strick]

I would be interested in a couple.

[super flat]

I am in for 2 please. Gary

[Ol' Ron]

You the man, that's beautiful>>

[Gary Duff]

I do the Harman Collins dual coil here in Seattle. If whomever is going to do this, I
would be interested if they make both the rotor and the inner cap. I would like to see the inner cap made without the primary connections as part of the inner cap. They are a major source of high tension shorts, so I bring out the primary differently.
Put me in for a dozen if this gets out of the planning stage. Gary

[alchemy]

DzusFast,
Send the sample to Bubba for testing. If it works as designed, we'll be lined up at your door.

[Bruce Lancaster]

I want a couple even before testing! Gotta be better than my broken one...and I'm betting on it being a lot better, given the source and care shown so far.

(I assume you'll be mentioning this on the HAMB...that'll likely bump you from potential dozennaire to potential zillionnaire!)

[moonlight graham]

I'm interested in a couple as well.

Geoffrey

[DzusFast]

Wow, looks like I better get to work guys....I will definitely keep everyone updated on progress; thanks for the support!

[Chris Marshall]

A lifesaver!! I had considered selling my HC due to a bad rotor, now I can hopefully run it.

Put me down for a couple.

[Bruce Lancaster]

And start tooling for that blasted lower cap!
I have bits and pieces from some of those stock Ford (59) cap dual coil conversions...these are interesting because they made the conversion with no need for any extra plastic or much more technology than a drill press...they simply added a contact to the back end of the stock rotor and screwed in a brass ring around the center of the cap! I think they used same type plate conversion as HC, though there are no labels on the partial distributors I have to prove anything.
If someone simply made brass rings and tabs, and accurately drilled some points plates, that would be a cheap and easy conversion replicating an actual traditional part. It would make sense to do it with some compact common points, too, like '60's Mopar or '50's Ford. It seems silly to chase down weird old magneto points from antique cement mixers and aircraft for a simple conversion on a fairly low RPM battery ignition.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by alchemy

DzusFast,
Send the sample to Bubba for testing. If it works as designed, we'll be lined up at your door.

I spoke with him, and sending one out today.

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

I spoke with him, and sending one out today.

Looking forward to hearing how it works. Bubba is working on some of my H/C distributors right now.

I'll spread the word about this project and try to drum up some more interest for you.

Now, I wonder how long before Drake starts shipping back-orders on the caps?

Neal

[russcc]

Nice work. You have ready market for them from we see on this post.

[flatheadz-forever]

I May need a few

[32phil]

Thank You for your efforts.........where do I send the check ??

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by 32phil

Thank You for your efforts.........where do I send the check ??

When I have the rotors ready I'll post here.... meanwhile, I'd like to hear some input from the sample I sent to Bubbas ignition

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I got the rotor, shes a beauty !!!!
The overall quality is a A++ , i will check the fit and function later this week but the overall impression so far is very good !!
I will run it under some load and put some volts thru it for a period of time on the tester as time permits. Stay tuned......

[DzusFast]

fyi everybody..... I haven't dissapeared, I'm just in the midest of pulling this project together. As it stands now, I'm shooting before delivery before Christmas

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Also i will load one up with some voltage and scope to test it even more soon as possible. Maybe this weekend........
Looking great so far...

[fordcpe]

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I think I should have a spare rotor for mine.Let us know when they are ready.Darrell

[4dFord/SC]

This thread makes me want one, too, and I don't even have a Harmon Collins distributor.

[B-O-B]

Contact Bubbas' Ign. & you can have a nice rebuilt one. He has a sale going on.

[trainguy]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

Jim,
Dennis Carpenter would be prospect.....his business started with inj molding
dash knobs.
Hmmm tooling cost est $15000....sell price $100 each.....firm orders for 200
would cover the margin and overhead....maybe.
Back in the day there was no such a thing as CAD-CAM.....today it might be
possible to knock these things out from high dialectric 'plastic' round stock...blank
them out on big multi axis HARDINGE chucker and then on to a comp mill.
I'm dreamin'.
Charlie ny

I have a machine that would have no problem making this part.The only problem is would it be economically worth while.At $100each I would need to make about 25 roters to make it worthwhile.Phil

[svm99]

I'd be interested in a couple of rotors when available. I admire you for following through with this time consuming but highly worthwhile project.
Thanks Paul J.

[russcc]

Nice work. Have you made any for sale ? If so, please PM me. Thank you, Russ

[Fred A]

Bought a couple of caps from Drake and would be smart for me to have a spare rotor and points. Did I mention points? Perhaps the points could be offered from the same source. Kinda like one stop shopping. Watching this string for developments and needing one to protect my investment. Thanks: Fred A

[DzusFast]

Thanks a lot for everyone's input....I'll have them by Christmas. If you're in the thread, your on the list

[37Ford]

I would be interested in two when available.

[Robert Dip]

I've had this H-C distributor base for umteen years. Without the other parts, I had pretty well given up on resurrecting this treasure piece. BUT...aftr following this post, and finding the distributor, is it possible to have all of the missing parts co complete?? If so, I'm in.
Model # 14 Serial 3074 Please let me know....and I can send to Babbas for a make-over..........Robert

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Robert Dip

I've had this H-C distributor base for umteen years. Without the other parts, I had pretty well given up on resurrecting this treasure piece. BUT...aftr following this post, and finding the distributor, is it possible to have all of the missing parts co complete?? If so, I'm in.
Model # 14 Serial 3074 Please let me know....and I can send to Babbas for a make-over..........Robert

You will need both pieces , the internal ring and the rotor. Then it can be built....

[Elmo Rodge]

I would like one, too. Wayno

[Robert Dip]

Bubbas....discussions here are on the rotors....how do we/I get the internal ring??

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Robert Dip

Bubbas....discussions here are on the rotors....how do we/I get the internal ring??

Right now to the best of my knowledge you dont. They just are not available anywhere that i know of.....

[34ragtop]

put me down for a couple also

[RoadsterA]

Bubba how did the rotors go in your "performance" test?

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by RoadsterA

Bubba how did the rotors go in your "performance" test?

Will run one this week , have two on the bench 90% completed ready to test...

[qmdv]

I have a HC that is complete. The internal ring has a little tit that positions the cap in the correct place. That tit is pretty much worn off do to poor removal and replacement technique.

Can that tit be built up with epoxy or liquid steel.

Tim

[BillM]

I had the same issue and here is how I dealt with it:


See the details here:
http://myplace.frontier.com/~wgmumaw...il%20Crab.html

[Mart]

I had a browse around your various projects, Bill, very interesting stuff. I do remember some of it, but it was nice to visit again.

Mart.

[Kerk]

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I have the H.C. distributor that was on my 32 whan I bought it in 1970 and drove it home after sitting for quite a spell. Ran great enough to take a c\Chevy at the lights and driver looked amazed! Walt just finished my engine with a crab-- so I am watching this post with interest. Showed
WALT the H.C. and he thought it looked O.K. . Will send to Bubba when new roters are checked out even though my present one looks O.K. Kerk

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Will run one this week , have two on the bench 90% completed ready to test...

Hopefully those are my two. Anything new to report on the rotors?

Thanks,

Neal

[Don]

Just what is a HC dist,all this talk and I'm not familiar with them,do I need one on my 35'. What were they used on to start with ???

[Terry,OH]

Don: The HC is a Harman Collins dual coil distributor made by that company to replace the Ford 42-48 distributor, that uses one coil. No you do not need one for any of the Fords. It is more of a Hot Rod, high performance, part.

[Ol' Ron]

Nice to see people like Bill in our Hobby.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Sorry this took so long but i got the rotor in a customers unit this morning and took it for a spin.

The rotor fits like a glove and seems to work just fine!!! Nice product !!

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by NealinCA

Hopefully those are my two. Anything new to report on the rotors?

Thanks,

Neal

Well, I'm scurrying about now trying to get them done by the end of this year. This week I have some more little 'mods' to do on the mold then I can start production. Sorry for keeping you Gentlemen waiting. Might throw up some pictures of the process, some of you might be curious as to how its done.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

Might throw up some pictures of the process, some of you might be curious as to how its done.

I would be interested in seeing those pictures.

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I would be interested in seeing those pictures.

Same here...

[BillM]

I would be interested in seeing those pictures.

Especially how the carbon brush gets installed.

[DzusFast]

This is the mold I've made. I will post more later, just felt bad giving you guys a 'teatse then not posting .

Currently modifying the top collar's height due to some people actually having to "sand" down so it doesn't rub on the inside of the cap. Also, the rivits need to be made.... the ones I used before I'm not happy with. I want to build a rotor that won't have any issues down the road ....

[NealinCA]

Thanks for posting. Very impressive! We have been without rotors for so long, it's great to see this project in the works with light at the end of the tunnel.

Neal

[KiWinUS]

As above !!!
AWESOME!!! & thank you !!!
Cheers
Tony

[Strick]

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to the finished product.

[super flat]

WAITING WITH BAITED BREATH-----------THANKS Gary

[DzusFast]

I know you all have been waiting patiently for me to finish the rotors up, and wanted to post the progress. I'm hoping to get some time this week with the injection mold machine and wrap it up, meanwhile, I had to remake custom rivets that hold the terminals down, make ANOTHER mold (shown in attachment) to stamp out the spring copper contact. (Not regular copper either)

And, another mold to stamp out the brass (Low resistance brass BTW) contacts. Now that that's all done, we are ready for production/assembly!!!

The real dirty moldmker picture is a fine wire that like a bandsaw, electrically extracts material away with high precision. The cncmaker picture is the other machine also with high precision electrically 'washes' away the "Swiss Steel" (what the molds are made from) cha ching $$$....not cheap stuff.

enjoy

[JM 35 Sedan]

I personally would not let those who may be impatient to get these rotors rush you along on this project. I would say take the time you need to do this like you want to see it done. No one will probably remember if it took you, three months, six months or longer to get this made right, but on the other hand, if they don't turn out right, they will never forget. Just my opinion. Thanks for taking the initiative do something like this that has been needed for a long time.

[DzusFast]

Thanks for the support.

[34ragtop]

i agree with jm 35 sedan-- i would rather wait and see them done right

[DzusFast]

Hi Guys!


Happy New Year.... well, see attachments, I think they came out pretty nice! the rivet on the right gets sheared down today and stamped down finalizing these puppies. Each (4) piece mold extract takes 7 minutes for ONE injection cycle with this Bakelite. Since I didn't want to alter the original design, they came out of the mold with difficulty. I only managed to produce about 85% and the rest needed to be chipped out due to the angles in the original design. (too straight)

[NealinCA]

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Wow! Nice work.

When you are ready, let us know where to send the check...

Neal

[Matt in Alameda]

I have no use for these in my applications, however I want to take a moment to thank-you for stepping up to the plate to help those of us who do need these.....I applaud you...Thank-you.........Matt in Alameda

[Fe26]

An outstanding effort, well done!

Are you able to install Ejector Pins on your mould to help remove the parts without damaging them. I may be talking thru my hat as I'm not familiar with Injection Moulds, but I have done a lot of Drop Forging, and on some dies the only way to remove a forging is with Ejector Pins.

[34ragtop]

they look great, ready to send my check when their ready... thanks tom

[Ol' Ron]

Now I'm sorry I sold my H&C distributor.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by Fe26

An outstanding effort, well done!

Are you able to install Ejector Pins on your mould to help remove the parts without damaging them. I may be talking thru my hat as I'm not familiar with Injection Moulds, but I have done a lot of Drop Forging, and on some dies the only way to remove a forging is with Ejector Pins.

Only from one side, can't have them on both. Because bakelite is higher temp, the expansion and contraction leaves me at the mercy of the parts and mold sides. after the fiirst few came out ok, following ten were chipped out....then by some act of nature, they began to comeout ok.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Now I'm sorry I sold my H&C distributor.

Haha, does this mean I will have to start making them too?

[rotorwrench]

It look like some old Harmon & Collins distributors will be flying high, mighty, & handsom pretty soon.

[PeteVS]

Interesting. Most of the pictures show the "top" side of the rotor, the one with the ejector pins. The fins on that side look to have very little draft. Is that the feature that's hanging up in the mold? There was one picture back at the beginning of the thread showing the "bottom" and the bosses there appear to have a heavy draft angles on the outside. They shouldn't be causing problems. Are there problems with the ID's in those bosses?

[super flat]

They look GREAT! Sorry you are having trouble getting them out, but you will figure it out Im sure! I am ready when you are----Thanks

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Interesting. Most of the pictures show the "top" side of the rotor, the one with the ejector pins. The fins on that side look to have very little draft. Is that the feature that's hanging up in the mold? There was one picture back at the beginning of the thread showing the "bottom" and the bosses there appear to have a heavy draft angles on the outside. They shouldn't be causing problems. Are there problems with the ID's in those bosses?

The issue was with the amount of interference (When heated would get tight) with the brass tube (inside the bottom boss) ID/mold. The bottom half would stick in the mold. Dissimular metal expansion coefficients. There's no draft in the inside of the tube. Tube being the brass piece that holds the bottom side carbon contact and spring.

[Mike B]

Turlock swapmeet is coming up...I'm not too far away, and will be in Turlock on Sunday of the meet (but not at the SM)...anyway, if anyone going there, and assuming DF has some ready to go, to save multiple shipping cost he could send them to me and I could deliver on Sunday, if it helps someone save a few bucks here and there, as I know a lot of Barners go to Turlock.

Just trying to do my part to help!

[FlatheadTed]

First class job .

[DzusFast]

Ladies & Gentlemen, you asked for it - ya got it! Here's the first rotor off the production table. I will continue this week and see if we can start shipping end of next week. PM me if you'd like a pair. (Gotta sell in pairs....i'm a Po' boy

ENJOY...

[super flat]

i am ready anytime!

[DICK SPADARO]

Interesting project in regard to your mold sticking issue, my suggestion is to try some mold release agent. My suggestion would be PAM frying pan anti stick as it is high temp and does not effect the plastic. What is the price of the rotor?

[Strick]

Are you selling these now?

[DzusFast]

Hi guys, I'm still alive and well

had to perfect a method to punch down the rivets...at first I thought i could just "punch them down but they ended up breaking. So, I had to make a tool that spins and heats up the brass allowing them to fold down nicely without damaging them. Only so many were produced, I can't afford to waste any of them.
Another thing my friend pointed out was that these systems are 6v, and plug gap is .025" so 'Cap terminal' to 'Rotor terminal' clearance is important; that clearance between the brass electrodes on each side of the rotor (180 degrees apart) is important.
The rotors ARE done; however I just finished making ANOTHER tooling to grind down evenly for a more precise clearance.... this will insure a better spark at the plug!

Sorry for the delay, should have them all ready to ship soon. My friend helping me with the project took off for 3 week vacation....(Why don't I have such luck

J.

[super flat]

Very glad you are making them as good as possible ! Thanks Gary

[Terry,OH]

Ford had a clearance Spec. for the rotor to cap gap. I came across it in the service bulletins from about 46-48.

[PeterC]

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" and plug gap is .025" so 'Cap terminal' to 'Rotor terminal' clearance is important; that clearance between the brass electrodes on each side of the rotor (180 degrees apart) is important"

Interesting because there was a separate thread recently about sloppy repro cap clearance on the normal crab caps - wide variations - Bubba said he gets caps that are better than most - but not sure how they stack up to the original tolerances that Henry demanded.

[DzusFast]

Wow, this is good. We need to make educated decision as to the best radius to cut them down to..... Now, I'm at [greater than] R1.432"

I made them intentionally oversized for this reason. (Hindsight is 20/20)

I was going to cut them all today too!

[1963turnerjohn]

SOLD - wow more hop ups will be sporting H&C distributors!


If anyone wants to get ahold if a Harmon & Collins distributor - I have a nice one that will need a rebuild details below
model 14 Harmon & Collins 2 Bolt Ford distributor. All H&C tan adapters are included as well as the special rotor and cap.

This distributor needs rebuilding and it does have a few small nicks and one part on the bottom of rotor is chipped though this will not affect operation.

This distributor is a great period performance part for your Hop Up or custom.

Price $300.00 - shipping $10.00 to lower 48

Email for pics
[email protected]

[hotcoupe]

e-mail sent.

[russcc]

Pat Mason, MRI and I just bought a couple of Joe's H&C rotors. We will let you know who they work out.

[1963turnerjohn]

Are they on sale now? Or are you guys running tests to prove out the rotors - prior to sale?
I am putting off a H&C rebuild until the new rotors are ready.

[OHIOGARY]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

Ladies & Gentlemen, you asked for it - ya got it! Here's the first rotor off the production table. I will continue this week and see if we can start shipping end of next week. PM me if you'd like a pair. (Gotta sell in pairs....i'm a Po' boy

ENJOY...

Let me know what a pair costs.Gary

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by 1963turnerjohn

Are they on sale now? Or are you guys running tests to prove out the rotors - prior to sale?
I am putting off a H&C rebuild until the new rotors are ready.

o ahead, i gaurantee they will be ready very soon. Just making DARN sure about that 'cap to rotor clearance.'

Practical test has been ran already, car runs fine.

REBUILD IT John.

[B-O-B]

NEW old manufactured 6 VOLT transistor ignition kit GM Ford Mopar etc - $100



Bubba this ones for you on Mohave county Az CL under vintage ford auto parts

[B-O-B]

OH !!! an afterthought. I didn't mean to hi-jack this thread but thought it would be the easiest way to get Jims' attention for a piece for his collection.
If I overstepped the boundaries I am truly sorry.

[DzusFast]

Beuler..........Beuler..............Beuler........ ...




Anybody have the radius yet? sorry, don't want to finish them up and have everybody return them

[Bruce Lancaster]

Maybe the best thing would be to see if there's a consensus on best currently available cap...Echlin? Drake? and build to that, along with including some instructions on rotating the thing by hand before bolting it on, hitting the starter button, and watching expensive plastic fragments flying in all directions!

[KiWinUS]

Do you want a stock rotor to build it the same ?

[DzusFast]

I have a cap here, I've measured it. I have a stock rotor here, I've measured it.
If I can spend a week or two and improve the current size....awesome. If I have measured out from too old, or a modified（sanded down) rotor.......


... awh heck, I've been given an R of 1.432", maybe I should just go with an R of 1.44......what do you think? ( 'R' = Diameter/2 of course )

[PeteVS]

Doesn't the Ford archives have drawings and / or a history of making the "stock" rotor?

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by anonymous...

"Joe, I measured 3 different "original" caps, and the smallest diameter was 2.903", and the largest was 2.915". I would error on the small size, which is 1.451" RADIUS....so with clearance, your 1.44" radius should be good. I haven't checked in with any ignition suppliers yet."

OK then, appears we're good now. I'm off to finish the final stages and ship out to those who have placed orders and interst. I will confirm with everyone in a week or so thanks everyone for your patience and help.

[mercpu66]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

OK then, appears we're good now. I'm off to finish the final stages and ship out to those who have placed orders and interst. I will confirm with everyone in a week or so thanks everyone for your patience and help.

I'm in for a pair also! Thanks Bill .

[Terry,OH]

Ford Service Bulletin #12000, P4, 4-18-48. 21A-12200 rotor gap 0.0055 Max. 0.0035 Min.
Min. Center of Shaft to end of electrode (inches) 1.455 Mfg. 1.452 Wear Limit. I have sent you a scan of the document.

[fordcpe]

Bob Drake sent me an email he is looking for Harmon Collins rotor and spacer to do R&D work.Here is the wording from email
Bob wants to buy these in less than good condition to take apart for
R & D purposes and to prepare for manufacture. Non-working,
chipped or even broken in half.
What have you got?

[PeterC]

Just got a mass email from Bob Drake wanting Harmon Collins parts






Bob wants to buy these in less than good condition to take apart for
R & D purposes and to prepare for manufacture. Non-working,
chipped or even broken in half.
What have you got?

Please send photos, description
& price to:
[email protected]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

Well, I'm scurrying about now trying to get them done by the end of this year. This week I have some more little 'mods' to do on the mold then I can start production. Sorry for keeping you Gentlemen waiting. Might throw up some pictures of the process, some of you might be curious as to how its done.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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It's surprising to me that Bob Drake would be interested in tooling up these relatively low volume parts, especially if he realizes that DzusFast already has the jump on making and selling the rotor. Now the inner cap is a different story. Probably the next weak link in the H-C parts availability chain. But another thought might be...he already has an outer cap that works (even though some of the firing order numbers are located incorrectly for H-C), once he has the rotor and inner cap, there is not much more needed other than the four lobe shaft to make a kit that would convert a standard Ford crab distributor into a dual point, dual coil H-C type distributor....na...he probably wouldn't do that

[Bruce Lancaster]

If the plastic is available the rest of a conversion kit would require little more than drilling some carefully indexed holes in the breaker plate and running an exchange service to mill off surplus cam lobes...
It would make sense to drill for some common small automotive points rather than the old magneto points. Someone with a little design genius and access to production facilities could even move the design up a little and make a 2-piece plate modeled on Lincoln Zephyr plate, allowing the points to be adjusted for dwell and timing fully independently to eliminate the unavoidable minor variations in assemblies bolted together.
Availability of cam and plate would also facilitate home conversion of the old 59A cap based dual point setups, too.

[DICK SPADARO]

What is all the hupula, it's a distributor that doesnt work much better than a stock one. I see the only advantage would be at the hi RPM range of operation so unless you are going to run your engine 4G Rpm + you are making it a bragging rights item that the only gain is lightening your pocket book by spending additional money unnecessarily.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Well, by the late '50's Small block Chevy drag cars were getting up towards 7,000 RPM with points (often single points, not even the Corvette duals) and a single coil. Improvements in coil capacity had probably already made the dual coil setup obsolete while the HC was still in production, certainly for the flathead RPM range. It is still an interesting and cool approach to what was once a problem.
Ford adopted the expensive Mallory dual point design in '32, because 8 cylinders spinning past 4,000 was a problem for the coils of that day and the Mallory overlap system gave the needed extra range for that problem...again, circumstances that ceased to be a problem as coils improved.
Yes, there is no reason for this contraption when a good stock crab and a "modern" coil ("Modern" here meaning 50 year old tech rather than 70) can handle all needs and any desire for more flash can be handled better with 30 year old HEI with CD tech cheaper...
The HC remains COOL, as does a magneto, even though there isn't much reasonable excuse for their continued existence...
For more muddled thought, how come no interest in the old 59 based dual coils...a simpler and more elegant DC conversion in comparison with the tower of bad plastic riddled with cross fire points that is the HC...?
And whyinhell antique, scarce, and expensive mag points designed for Clinton lawnmowers long before I was born??

[scooder]

Dick, you underestimate the "that is so damn cool" factor.
And maybe (hopefully) these are going on engines that will regularly see upwards of 4000rpm.
I'd really like one, but the money they fetch is more than I could spend on an ignition, when I already have a Grant Spaulding flame thrower. Which I have buzzed the other side of 6500rpm fairly regularly.
Kudos to the man for making these parts available, damn good job!

Martin.

[Ol' Ron]

Another issue is the advance curve of the 11A. Although very good for the stock engine, it comes snort for the cruise toming with present day gas. This can be addresed by opening up the advance slots, but the stock springs pose a problem. As Bruce pointed out, it's more esthetic than necessary. Someone is making a distributor modification to the 11A for dual head spark plugs (16 wires)$$$$$$$

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by PeterC

Just got a mass email from Bob Drake wanting Harmon Collins parts






Bob wants to buy these in less than good condition to take apart for
R & D purposes and to prepare for manufacture. Non-working,
chipped or even broken in half.
What have you got?

Please send photos, description
& price to:

Well, shucks!
HOPE HE focuses on what isn't available.... like the 'Center Contact plate'
pictured on the left of the rotor I've ALREADY done R&D on - and invested two years in making.


P.S. For those of you that have been exceedingly helpful to Our cause, I am starting to ship out this next week! IF YOU are in this thread, you ARE on my list. Terry & Bruce...there on there way as with the rest of you as well that have PM'd me, thank you for your support!!!

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

........And whyinhell antique, scarce, and expensive mag points designed for Clinton lawnmowers long before I was born??

hahaha... I love it!

[Bruce Lancaster]

...and I hope he doesn't duplicate the wretched original plastic type!

[1963turnerjohn]

Well given the efforts of Dzusfast - I hope Ford guys support him fully with buying rotors. And if the center plate is duplicated in tan by Dzusfast- I will support his efforts as well. This is what is so neat about the hobby - the great fellows that step up and help the future of the hobby!

[v8fordman]

Anyone know how to get in touch with DzusFast via email? Also, does anyone make the intermediate piece between the cam shaft and the rotor which has a set screw to attach it to the distributor cam shaft for the H/C? Email me at [email protected]

[DzusFast]

Sorry for the short delay Gentlemen, Rotors are finished however, the carbon brush on the bottom side had to be custom made so I'm turning them out on the lathe these days.....teedious but necessary

If you're curious what the black material over the rivets is, it's a special dielectric insulation I've used for years...

[DzusFast]

They are done, and shipping has begun!
PLEASE PM me your email address and / or phone#, and I'll reply with cost and instructions.

Bubba, You started the thread. Still need some rotors? or am I too late...
( I Will send you a production line rotor when i get the chance

[34ragtop]

My money is on the way, would rather help a little guy that put a lot of effort in making these-thanks dzusfast

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

They are done, and shipping has begun! PM me your address and phone, and I'll reply.

Bubba, You started the thread. Still need some rotors? or am I too late...

Actually i bought one of your first ones. Its going in a unit i have for sale here at the shop. In the future i will buy some more as they come in for service.....

[fordcpe]

I don't see a price for the rotors.How much each shipped to Detriot Michigan 48174.Thanks Darrell

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by fordcpe

I don't see a price for the rotors.How much each shipped to Detriot Michigan 48174.Thanks Darrell

Thanks for your order!

I have received a few PayPals this weekend, and thanks A LOT GUYS for helping me out. Your rotors are shipping out USPS Monday morning pronto!!!!

[DzusFast]

Hello everybody.

Those who had paid me via PayPal got shipped out today - YEAH!

Thank you! just a reminder, I do have a limited quantity so first come - first serve if you have sent a check send me a PM or email and I'll keep you on top of the check list and make sure you get your order for Rotors....

[MickeyD]

I just came over from the HAMB when I saw a post about DzusFast's project.
My main need is for a good center plate. I have a complete unit that I ran on a drag
car in the 60's but the center plate is pretty marginal.
I'm sure I will probably need a new rotor soon too.
Poor pic's of the Model A drag car attached. Sorry they're so small.

[DzusFast]

If you've received your rotor, post a good comment. PM me with the bad comments....lol

Hope everyone's enjoying them

And I'm working on the centerplates now......why the heck not right?

[KiWinUS]

Have my Rotors been shipped yet ? Just curio
Thanks
Cheers
Tony

[Terry,OH]

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I received mine order today and the rotors fit like a glove (no interference to a Bob Drake cap) and look great. My distributor needs to be timed so I will not have it in service for a while.

[russcc]

I supported Joe's effort from the start for several reasons. Here is fellow Fordbarner investing his time & money to fulfill a need many of us have, and the parts are made carefully right in the USA. If Drake try to do them you know where the stuff will come from. I would only buy products made in the USA for my H&C.
As for Spaddaro's comments, the H&C is time piece which some people don't understand, and that is it real value to many of us.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Have my Rotors been shipped yet ? Just curio
Thanks
Cheers
Tony

you should have them tomorrow if you didn't get them today..... can't see it taking till Monday.....know any fardbarners that might be staking out ur porch?

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by russcc

I supported Joe's effort from the start for several reasons. Here is fellow Fordbarner investing his time & money to fulfill a need many of us have, and the parts are made carefully right in the USA. If Drake try to do them you know where the stuff will come from. I would only buy products made in the USA for my H&C.
As for Spaddaro's comments, the H&C is time piece which some people don't understand, and that is it real value to many of us.

FUNNY thing is, my buddy that's helping me assemble has a degree from 'MIT', rocket science or something - Honest!

[Offy 220]

I ordered two H & C rotors from Joe last week. He is a great communicator and keeps on top of his orders. I received both rotors today and all I can say that I am impressed with the quality and workmanship. They fit perfectly and I will be able to restore the one I have as a spare and the other is on my 296" in my 40 coupe. I also run a H & C magneto [which I just had reworked]. Great job Joe!

[KiWinUS]

My rotors arrived yesterday , "THANKS" Joe , they look perfect !!!!! I have not tried them on a dizzy yet . They are only for spares for my 2 imacullate H&C dizzys & to support such a great Ford guy !!!!
THANKS!!!!!!
Cheers
Tony

[whygoby]

"THANKS" Joe...... for the excellent NEW product that was much needed by H&C ignition owners. I just returned from a 3 day tour......totally 500 miles, using your NEW H&C rotor, and it performed perfectly!! (Mine rotor came Wed. morning) I have two H&C ignitions on two of my cars, and a 3rd as a backup. I will be buying 4 more rotors, before they are all gone. The fit of the rotor to the dist. shaft is perfect. Thanks for making a great product, .....for such a limited market. Paying $100 for marginal swap meet rotors is a thing of the past!! (I'm sure you won't be getting rich on this venture)!!
How about making the contact plate next? Whygoby Garage

[DzusFast]

Thanks for the replies... pretty cool seeing this whole process come together and if I can at least get enough out to pay for my expenses I'll do the centerplate too. Matter of fact, already started working on it - nothing wrong with being prepared right....
Thought I'd post a pi from a 'Happy' customer (Thanks!)

[DzusFast]

bump?

Thanks for your email input guys.... good to know everyone's happy.

[Strick]

My pair of rotors arrived today Joe. They look great! Will be awhile before they are put into use, but didn't want to miss out on the limited production. Thanks for your investment and time to resurrect some of these H&C dizzys! Glad to support your manufacturing efforts. Hope the centerplate also becomes a reality and you beat the big boys to the USA made market before their offshore venture.

[john a venezia]

I am new to Ford barn.I have enjoyed reading various inputs.I am 74 have several flatheads on wheels.I just bought a 1948 Linc Cont. in Fairbanks,Alaska and had brought home to Pa.Right now i think i am in need of a dist for my 12 cyl.Hope i can be of some help with some of my busted knuckle experience over the years john venezia fomoco

[DzusFast]

Love the sound of a 12 cyl.

(and that 2.0~2.4L 6cyl. upper left, but don't tell anyone )

[Bruce Lancaster]

...and each one of those came with a free dual coil conversion already installed!

[B-O-B]

Bruce FREE????

[Bruce Lancaster]

Yep! Edsel Ford came down to the Lincoln assembly line every morning right after his coffee, and bolted them in before each car was shipped! Noblesse Oblige in action, a real class act!

[DzusFast]

That's what I want in my '32 coupe! souped-up V12. How'a that new rotor working out for ya Bruce? anyone guess what's on my desk now?
~~hint~~



~~~you are feeling sleepy~~~buy my rotors~~~ ~~~support the cause~~~

[1963turnerjohn]

Now that's Nice!!

[DzusFast]

Anymore takers for some rotors???? I wanna see the centercap come alive

[email protected]

[Gary Duff]

Joe
Twelve rotors arrived today in fine shape. I fit one up on a distributor, and
the rotor is a perfect fit. You are to be commended for the considerable
effort you put in to pull this off. No question, this is the real deal. Anybody
that buys one of these will be most happy with it. Thank you for your
contribution to the old Ford hobby. Here is hoping that the inner cap works
out. I will take a dozen if it does. Again thank you Joe. Gary

[DzusFast]

Thanks Gary!
Well, sales have slowed, but it hasn't kept me from making the mid-cap. I'm hoping I'll have it for you within a month (Insert fingers crossed 'icon' here) or so.

Currently researching for purchase the material (Butterscotch color) I'm going to use since I can't go further finishing the mold without it. Different materials cool differently and final size etc...

thought I'd post some progress.

[DzusFast]

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SOooo, I've made them available for 'Single' rotor purchases for those of you who just want one (1) rotor. Cost is $140 shipped, and I am DISCOUNTING the center cap (getting close to finishing them) to those who stepped up and purchased two from me before.

[DzusFast]

Well so far it seems everything's fine with the new rotors. If anyone has had any issues, please PM me I'll follow up!

Hoping to have the centercap available very soon - (darn color matching) there are design upgrades many asked for preventing common problems with the original (2) versions.

Enjoy!

[whygoby]

Joe, I have used your new rotor for 2,000 miles since receiving one of the 1st ones in April........and NO PROBLEMS!! I removed the ignition yesterday to check the contact plate, and brush wear.....and everything looks GREAT!! Thanks for bringing out a MUCH NEEDED PRODUCT!! Now it's off to Bonneville in two weeks with your NEW ROTOR!! I will be looking forward to your next product...the contact plate. Thanks again...Whygoby

[DzusFast]

Have some friends wanting me to do some of the internals: 4 lobe cam etc...

I have made a few more rotors if anyone needs some and I am trying hard to finish up the centercaps now. It is difficult (and expensive) with bakelite; want to match the color as close as possible.

Hope everyone who bought my rotors are enjoying them! 2 people gave me a $40 deposit for the centercap~ I must make it
Thought I would 'bump' the thread and let people know where I'm at with the caps!

[Bruce Lancaster]

Whew...you are getting close to being able to produce rebuilt HC's from Ford cores. I'm assuming you own a drill.
Looking forward to seeing the caps...Ive got one cracked HC and one poor naked one with no plastic at all waiting!

[super flat]

I can use that cap when you get them ready! Thanks, Gary

[Init1]

That is beautiful stuff. What a great hobby we have!

[DzusFast]

aaArghh...

Can't believe a year has gone by -- wow. Rotors worked out well. Not a single return, only a few broken carbon brushes due to shipping handling and or boxing. I want to thank everyone for their support in buying them. Sales paid for costs' ....juuuuust about. Profit was in the "sense of accomplishment" from producing a useable good that put a smile on some faces, and a light pat on the back

CENTERCAP. I know everyone in need is waiting. It has been first on my 'short list "to do", but the workbench has been wiped off, and I'll be focusing attention directly on it over the next few weeks. My supplier for the Bakelite needs to mix it to match, also need to do some math. (weight, etc... per piece) Then just bite the bullet so to speak and buy the machine time and try it out, make nec. adjustments etc... so it is a start and not stop until done process.

Cheers Guys

[DzusFast]

Oh, just so you know I had 5 people give me small deposits a year ago for the middle cap -- listing their initials below:

Great Thanks for everyone's support BTW:

RJ
LM
BL
GO
TB
{Thanks Guys}

Money was the hold-up. I am just one guy making these so it takes a while for me to scavenge funds for these re-pop projects. I really am trying to finish before end of 2015, I was trying to finish for x-mas but the brass ring is holding me back a little bit. (It goes into the mold when the high-temp bakelite is injected. takes approx. 7 minutes to make 1piece!!!!) Must cool down due to thickness otherwise they will crack and so far I have not had a SINGLE RETURN with the rotors & I want to stay that way....

The Color is extremely close match, my sample was lets just say "Well Aged" so please don't expect a spectro-chromagraphic identical color like at home depot mixing paint, not as simple.

Can't wait to finish these and get them out there!!!

[Bruce Lancaster]

Looks like January of 1952 is about to happen! I'm looking forward to putting plastic with no cracks on the old sparkler.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Looks like January of 1952 is about to happen! I'm looking forward to putting plastic with no cracks on the old sparkler.

Bakelite Bruce Bakelite

no plastic used here, that's the stuff that warps, melts, cracks, shorts out and only lasts a little longer than cookies and milk put out at Christmas time.

[super flat]

Keep the faith Buddy! I am patiently waiting, good things take time. Gary

[BillM]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

Bakelite Bruce Bakelite

no plastic used here, that's the stuff that warps, melts, cracks, shorts out and only lasts a little longer than cookies and milk put out at Christmas time.

Not to start an argument but reading Wikipedia is very interesting if you are interested in learning about Bakelite:
Bakelite

Main article: Bakelite
The first plastic based on a synthetic polymer was made from phenol and formaldehyde, with the first viable and cheap synthesis methods invented in 1907, by Leo Hendrik Baekeland, a Belgian-born American living in New York state.

See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic

[DzusFast]

Sorry, I have been dealing with the bakelite suppliers lately. Chemically speaking it's also just a few molecules shy of "sugar" ☺

[DzusFast]

After well over a year, I've completed a small run of finished intermediate bakelite caps for those who requested them from me. Later this week I will be informing those 4 people who so kindly (and trustingly) pre-purchased at a discount (Thanks for your support guys...)

THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE! They turned out beautiful so here's a sneak peek for you....

[elwood]

Dzusfast, I dont need one, but I can truly appreciate the work you have put in this project.
Its guys like you that help to keep our cars running ..
Cheers mate .......

[DzusFast]

Color was chosen since the the material matching original couldn't be replicated without considerably more invetsment and time.... I wanted to use the "Tootsie roll" colored material (What I call it) since testing showed much stronger, more crack and chip resistant properties.

Here is it installed fitting very nicely to the cap above, and the distributor housing below.

[DzusFast]

Sorry for taking so long fellas....

I've made a few to send out to the people I'd promised them to, and the couple a people that pm'd me. It's so weird seeing a new one since I'm so used to the "epoxy repaired, safety wired" center caps so I'm getting used to seeing new ones gonna take a bit

I also beefed-up a bit the contact ring to coil wire terminal ( see 2rd attachment) for more trouble free service.

[DzusFast]

Oh, and yes it's bakelite, also not sure about mentioning anything about sales Within this forum's rules but I will discount $12 bucks off the ebay price....FYI if anyone wants one.

[super flat]

I received my new center cap from Joe this morning. His work is flawless, It looks great! I could not be happier. Well worth the wait. If you need one pony up, they are worth every penny! Gary

[ButchRed33]

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So good to see this happening, keeping the good ol' stuff alive. Keep on doing it if you possibly can, this helps everybody involved. Thanks. My hat's off to you.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by super flat

I received my new center cap from Joe this morning. His work is flawless, It looks great! I could not be happier. Well worth the wait. If you need one pony up, they are worth every penny! Gary

Thanks a lot for the positive feedback guys, if you know anyone in need please let them know - I made 10 more for those in need. So, get um while I got 'em!

[Brian King]

Hello and new to this thread. Question - I have a "post-type" H&C, model 15.00. I need a rotor. Will these re-pops work on my style?
THANKS

[DzusFast]

I've never seen this distributor before, I don't think so :-/

[Offy 220]

Originally Posted by DzusFast

Thanks a lot for the positive feedback guys, if you know anyone in need please let them know - I made 10 more for those in need. So, get um while I got 'em!

Joe, I purchased two rotors from you a few years ago and I have decided to use one of my H&C dual coil ignitions on the 296" I am putting together for my 40 coupe. Please put me on your list for one of the 10 center caps you just made. I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full.
Thanks for your time and effort!
Bruce [Offy 220]

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by Brian King

Hello and new to this thread. Question - I have a "post-type" H&C, model 15.00. I need a rotor. Will these re-pops work on my style?
THANKS

Hi brian, did I accidently send you a centercap instead of a rotor? I'f so let me know - might be able to modify a solution for that distributor before an exchange

Nevermind I found out who it was. ....hope the rotor works well for you.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Bumping this one to the top to determine if anyone here knows the best way to contact DzusFast on buying his H-C Rotor and Intermediate Cap? I plan to send him a pm/email through Fordbarn and will send an email to an address that was given on an old post here (edit: email was kicked back as not being a valid address), but is a couple years old. Does anyone have a phone number or an updated email address?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Bumping this one to the top to determine if anyone here knows the best way to contact DzusFast on buying his H-C Rotor and Intermediate Cap? I plan to send him a pm/email through Fordbarn and will send an email to an address that was given on an old post here (edit: email was kicked back as not being a valid address), but is a couple years old. Does anyone have a phone number or an updated email address?

John M.......Not sure what it means, but DzusFast's info page currently shows the following if you click on his screen name:

Biography Apparently I've lost any privileges to either POST, or SEND/RECEIVE email and un-able to contact anyone here. Sorry if it's an inconveenience to anyone.(I haven't been contacted either)...
DD

[V8COOPMAN]

John.......Try this e-mail address: [email protected]

His name is Joe ?.....but he still goes by DzusFast on the HAMB. He has posted over there as late as last September. Click the link below! DD

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t....841103/page-2

[JM 35 Sedan]

Thank you DD. I have been trying to find his contact info for a friend needing these H-C parts he's reproducing, but running into roadblocks on all attemps so far.

I had tried this one he gave on an old post, but it failed....."[email protected]". I'll try the one you posted above or try to contact him on the HAMB.

[DzusFast]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Thank you DD. I have been trying to find his contact info for a friend needing these H-C parts he's reproducing, but running into roadblocks on all attemps so far.

I had tried this one he gave on an old post, but it failed....."[email protected]". I'll try the one you posted above or try to contact him on the HAMB.

I enjoyed our conversation JM. Sorry for the difficulty but we got it handled. That "sales AT specific design" was receiving 99.999% spam, and .0001% actual sales so I shut er down

I've been hoping for more interest in my centercap, try and recoop expenses but if anyone would like to get a rotor or the new centercap just replace the "sales@" part of my email with my name (Joe at) and I'll reply

Thanks everyone for supporting me!

[DzusFast]

Hi all,
I have made a few more centercaps if anyone needs them. There's about 22 available fyi.....PM or email and I'll reply asap thanks for supporting the cause

[FLTHDCPE]

Would like to hear from anyone that has purchased these reproduction H & C parts and actually installed them on a running Flathead. I have both, ( the Rotor and 2nd coil adapter ring ) on my Engine and would like to hear your comments or evaluation. I have experienced some ignition problems lately and would like rule these two items out.

[DzusFast]

Woodie from another forum sent me his defective intermediate (Centercap).

I'm posting pictures and a descriptive explanation to help others understand what to look for, the cause, it's effect, and solution:
The cause is in temperature variations during the manufacturing/mold process. It is 200LBs. of well engineered billet steel and needs preheating prior to injecting very high temp Bakelite and then a waiting process (Cooling down evenly) staring at a stopwatch 10 minutes for each piece before exposing it to ambient air; (My rotors only took 4 minutes!) split the mold too quick and the result is hairline cracks.... too slow and the machine clogs up and have to spend 2 hours re-tooling it and repeat until everything's running smooth, cool down's timed right - kinda like baking a pound cake in a french oven I guess. Anyway, before installing always inspect for cracks please. In Woodie's case, he had a crack from the primary screw hole to 1 of 4 pin holes that support the top ring in position during manufacturing. Because the steel wasn't at the correct temp yet, the outside of the part cooled quicker than the inside leaving 'EXTERNAL VISUAL CRACKS' noticeable in my pictures so please inspect before installing.

NOTE:
I now use JB Weld (Kwick) to insulate the 4 holes from "Leaking" high voltage secondary electricity. For any naysayers, JB-weld does not conduct electricy!!! I use it in building circuits and never have had ANY issues

[Automotive Stud]

I sent a PM, I'm interested in an inner cap and rotor if they are still available. Thanks!

[DzusFast]

Got it.(The pm), shipped it, been awhile so I guess it arrived

So, I got an order for ONE centercap the other day -- out of the blue, and found only TWO usable , inspected them adding the epoxy to ensure no problems but it got real serious real fast.

Only ONE centercap left. Thought I'd share this with the community.

[Automotive Stud]

Can we please post some information on this thread, if anyone has any manuals/bulletins/service information on how to set up one of these distributors that would be great!

[FLTHDCPE]

Refer to old post # 198 Still looking for feedback on these "Reproduction H & C parts from "DzusFast" If you have installed these on your Ole Ford and are driving it, let me know the results. ( Good or Bad ) I'm watching and listening. !!

[FLTHDCPE]

[STAN WHITE]

I HAVE A COUPLE OF HARMEN & COLLINS DUAL COIL DISTRIBUTORS THAT i BOUGHT 25 TO 30 YEARS AGO. i AM NOT GOING TO USE BOTH OF THEM, i HAVE NO IDEA OF THERE VALUE TODAY. i WANT TO KEEP ONE AS A SPARE. STAN .( PS THEY ARE NEW IN THE BOX.)

[KiWinUS]

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Stan 2 decent used units have sold on eBay in the last week. It’s all in how they are listed. One said Ford only not Ford flathead. It brought $177 the other was listed much better it brought I believe $567. Both about same condition. I have 3 nice units with new points. An expensive item. I would love a NOS unit but I also need to stop buying. I have waaaaayyyyy to much fun flatty stuff.
Cheers
Tony

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Stan 2 decent used units have sold on eBay in the last week. It’s all in how they are listed. One said Ford only not Ford flathead. It brought $177 the other was listed much better it brought I believe $567. Both about same condition. I have 3 nice units with new points. An expensive item. I would love a NOS unit but I also need to stop buying. I have waaaaayyyyy to much fun flatty stuff.
Cheers
Tony

You and I have a sickness for magnetos and ignitions . . . we need to get THAT cured soon! LOL

[KiWinUS]

Agreed Dale. I may be close. I’m out of $$$$.

[STAN WHITE]

KiWinUS, Thought I would reply.The units that I have were purchased in the late 80s . At that time they were very hard to find. if my memory serves me I think I paid 600/700 each for them. And that was a long time ago. I am using one in a 34 and plan on keeping a backup. I have a question they were very popular in the 50s and into the 60s. Over that many years should I be concerned about the condensers? Thanks Stan White

[KiWinUS]

Stan you are very fortunate to still have these. Yes condensers could have deteriorated with age. Also points oxidized & corroded. Grease they are lubed with gone hard or melted away from where it needs to by. I would strongly suggest having them “freshened” up
Cheers
Tony

[STAN WHITE]

KiWinUS, Thanks. Stan

[Wolf_Whistle]

Do you still have the Harmon Collins distributors?