Contaminated Engine Oil - Milky shade to Crankcase oil

[michaeld1]

When I purchased my "restored" 1930 Model A pickup in 2010, the local ford dealer reported contaminated engine oil (milky shade) at my first oil change. We tracked the issue down to a cracked head - replaced head with a stock freshly machined and magna fluxed head. We did not resurface the block.

I continue to see contaminated engine oil (milky shade) at each oil change. Any ideas where I should start?

Mike

[Fullraceflathead]

If your lucky it just the Head Gasket Leaking. I'd re check the Torque on all head bolts.
It could also be a crack in the block or head. Most likely it's the Head Gasket.

[1930artdeco]

Sounds like the block may not be perfectly flat. That happened to me when I rebuilt my engine. Either that or you did not get all of the water out of the passages.

Mike

[CarlG]

If you are typically driving it on a bunch of short jaunts, and never get the engine up to normal operating temperatures and held there for 30-45 minutes, you will have condensation that will result in milky looking oil or residue, especially around the breather cap.

[andyfresno]

Mike,

The milky oil is caused by water in the oil, which obviously you already know.

I had this problem once when I didn't go back and re- torque the head nuts.

Did you take a really good look at the top of the block? Put a straight edge on it?

The next things to consider aren't good - -cracked block, etc.

I always put a can of stop leak in the radiator when I have the head off - -some guys think this can clog things up - -but I haven't had a problem. - -I'd try that before you consider what's next.

Oh - -by the way - -if the stop leak fixes the problem, your oil will still be milky from the small amount of old oil left the engine, but it shouldn't be as bad

[Keith True]

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I would put my money on just the residue from the old oil.There will be a bunch still in the valve chamber and in the dipper tray that won't drain out,plus what was stuck to the insides of the engine.It may take a couple of changes to get it all out.Plus,where you are looking for problems a little bit of water will seem like a lot in your mind.

[andyfresno]

yep -could be - -but it should be less milky -

It's a lot of work - -but you could clean out the old oil - drop the pan (there is oil in the splash pans) and take off the value cover - -I think that will get It all - -I'd do that before I pulled the engine - -I guess - - not a fun problem

[Mitch//pa]

if you want to clean the milk out of a motor get it hot then drain the oil.. with the plug still out pour 2 qts of ATF to clean out the dipper tray. reinstall the oil plug and refill crankcase with ATF. run the motor stationary for 15 minutes. drain the ATF and dump 2qts of motor oil to clear the dipper tray.. refill with motor oil run the car a few miles then drain again and refill youll have a clean motor.

[redmodelt]

Unless I get my T out for a good long run, even in the summer, I often see milky colored oil at the filler hole. I have done all the checking for leaks and just write it off to condensation.

[Idaho Brett]

I would think that if you still have "Milk Shake Like Oil", take note of water level in radiator AND oil level on dip-stick. Let the car sit for a few days....then check the water level in the radiator AND check the oil level on the dip-stick.

If the water level has dropped AND the oil level has increased; it would mean you still have a leak some where. (Either a gasket problem, a head/block surface problem or the head is not torqued down)

If the water level AND oil level haven't changed then there is residual water in the oil passages some where.

I just recently went through this "Milk Shake Thing" and pulled the oil pan to get things cleaned up after replacing a leaky head gasket.

[a guy]

Had the same problem. Started with head gasket, machined head, new head no luck. Pulled valve cover off and inspected high up in cylinders. Found non-repairable crack between number 2 and 3. Got new reconditioned block and overhauled entire engine. I used flash light and mirror. Camera probe would be better. Good luck. Try simple things first.

[Ed in Maine]

Don't forget to put a few coats of Permatex head gasket sealer on the block, head and both sides of the head gasket. Torque the head down to 55 ft-lb.s and torque it often during the first startup. Initially run the car five minutes, torque again. Run the car 10 minutes, etc and torque again. You should be retorquing the head until there is no decrease when the car is at full operating temperature. Ed

[Brentwood Bob]

Running the motor should drive off the water suspended in the crank case. If the cloudy oil doesn't disappear then look deeper. #12 advice to keep retorquing the head until the head bolts stay tight is right on.
Do you keep the car in a garage, or outside? The motor needs to be run a while each time you use the car. Show and tell, or brief starts won't do the motor much good.

[Floats]

Hi Guys,
Have another look at Mike's first post, he says he bought the car in 2010 and the head was changed then.
Now years later, it surely cant be 'residual milky oil', unless the oil hadn't been changed for 5 years.

Mike,
Was the head ever retorqued after it was fitted?