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10-06-2022, 08:49 AM | #41 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South East NJ
Posts: 3,398
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Re: King Pin Reaming
In a nutshell...
A reamer will make bumps as it cuts. You can see this with any machined surface with all those very slight lines or arcs. You know this because of chatter or the motion as you hand turn the tool. A hone is sanding the surface smooth and 'flat'. In the end, the reamer will give a snug fit with its ridges it leaves behind. The kingpin will hone the surface flat so you now have more clearance then initially measured after you finished the reaming once you drive some. The difference is the honed will be properly sized and stay that way much longer. The reamer will start out tight and get loose by a bit with wear. How much, well that depends on the quality of the reamer, type of reamer (sprial or straight), and what care the person doing the job does in the cut. How much does it matter? Depends on your goal and life attitude. Most cars it does not matter at all. The car will be driven slowly and not a lot over its life. The little extra play is likely small in perspective to other errors in the building of the car. If you plan on actually building a car that can drive the 55 MPH like a factory car then you really want the best. You need a shop to do a factory tolerence hone. Understand the options and make educated choices. |
10-06-2022, 09:10 AM | #42 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 499
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Re: King Pin Reaming
Last January, I took my spindles to a locally owned, long time auto machine shop. They installed my new bushings and honed them on a Sunnen hone. Cost $80 and took 5 days. I'm very happy. We drive the heck out of the car.
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