29 Roadster ignition woes

[1929 Roadster]

I read a Post where advice was given to a guy with no spark and he was told to pull the coil wire off the Distributor cap and crank it with the key on while holding the wire A half inch from a head nut.. I did that and I have nothing . A little history , This car has not run for three years . I pulled the gas tank and treated it to get rid of the rust for good. Then I got very ill with a serious infection that I had to be hospitalized several times for and then I got cancer etc ect. So I'm finally getting to this . I have partially rebuilt the Distributor ,New points ,Timed and gapped to .020, New ignition switch & lock cable, New wire between points and lower plate, Done a continuity test from the ignition key to the points , good, continuity test for grounding, none found . I have power at both Terminal box poles and both coil poles . One problem is when doing a power check from the ignition switch body to the points (opened) the test light burns just opposite of what it should . It shows no power when locked (off)and power when unlocked(on) , So my book tells me that either it's the switch grounded or the condenser grounded or shorted .It's a new switch and passed a continuity test so I removed condenser hoping to change the outcome , no change , this condenser is supposed to be short proof so I'm befuddled . The switch body is ground ..The condenser is grounded in the front and attached to the lower plate power tab correctly. I then checked voltage at coil and terminal box . with key off 6.5V at all four. With Key on points open 6.5 all 4 and 6.5 at the power side of points. With key on points closed the voltage drops to .3 or less on points and also on the feed side (drivers side) of coil. According to what Tom Wesenberg says in this same post , the voltage should drop on the opposite side. So I took condenser out again and virtually everything remained the same . Can you advise my next step Thanks Jeremy