The Ford Barn

jim1932 · 01-07-2012, 09:23 PM

O.K. Now that I have mine running. How do Imdetermine if it is tuned properly and the clutch and brakes are set properly?

DavidG · 01-07-2012, 09:57 PM

As for proper tuning, even idling, smooth acceleration without hesitation and misfiring, and the ability to hold any reasonable speed are simple telltales of "proper".

The proper clutch and brake settings are covered in the Ford Service Bulletins for 1932, of which you previously mentioned having a copy.

columbiA · 01-07-2012, 10:08 PM

when timeing the ignition, the breaker plate should be in the center position.This will give you a few degrees to play with when you road test it. If carb is in good shape it should accelerate well with GAV--choke knob-seated.If clutch has smooth engagement & at least 1" free play it should be fine. If brakes stop fine w-o pulling to one side or grabbing they should be OK.After useing brakes for awhile,feel each of the drums-may have to slack off a hot brake a click or two or tighten a cool one.

jim1932 · 01-07-2012, 10:28 PM

Let me be more blatant in my ignorance. The car runs but I have no clue if it is set up correctly. What should it idle at? I can't run it down to the corner garage for a check up? I guess mainly what are warning signs that something is wrong?

DavidG · 01-07-2012, 10:52 PM

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Things like: it is difficult to start (following the choke instructions in the owners manual); once started, it runs rough, even when warmed up, or worse yet, won't stay lit; it accelerates poorly or unevenly; at any given speed it bucks or backfires: it won't attain a speed of at least 50 mph in 3rd gear. (A properly tuned Model B will accelerate smartly and smoothly and will beat a stock '32 V-8 in a drag race for the first fifty yards.)

The proper procedure for setting the points on your four-cylinder distributor are included in Chapter 6 in your copy of the 1932 Ford book (I don't have mine handy right now, but there's always the index at the back of Volume 2). Not all of the potential symptoms cited above can be corrected in the ignition system as some of them may be the result of fuel delivery shortcomings (carburetor, fuel pump, etc.) or a combination of ignition/coil problems and fuel delivery shortcomings.

Despite the above comment, still consult your Service Bulletin copy as the correct brake adjustment procedure starts with the correct positioning of the arms on the brake cross shaft attached to the back of the center cross member. To ignore this first step may result in lost leverage in the system and less than optimal brake performance even if the car seems to stop okay without pulling or swerving.

Have you checked your brake shoes and drums to make sure that all of them are free of grease and there's no evidence that any grease or oil has ever gotten on the linings? If there's evidence to the contrary, you must reline the brake shoes as there is no cure for contaminated brake linings except complete replacement.

01-07-2012, 09:23 PM	#1
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,781	Specs for a model B? O.K. Now that I have mine running. How do Imdetermine if it is tuned properly and the clutch and brakes are set properly?

01-07-2012, 09:57 PM	#2
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Specs for a model B? As for proper tuning, even idling, smooth acceleration without hesitation and misfiring, and the ability to hold any reasonable speed are simple telltales of "proper". The proper clutch and brake settings are covered in the Ford Service Bulletins for 1932, of which you previously mentioned having a copy.

01-07-2012, 10:08 PM	#3
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: Specs for a model B? when timeing the ignition, the breaker plate should be in the center position.This will give you a few degrees to play with when you road test it. If carb is in good shape it should accelerate well with GAV--choke knob-seated.If clutch has smooth engagement & at least 1" free play it should be fine. If brakes stop fine w-o pulling to one side or grabbing they should be OK.After useing brakes for awhile,feel each of the drums-may have to slack off a hot brake a click or two or tighten a cool one.

01-07-2012, 10:28 PM	#4
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,781	Re: Specs for a model B? Let me be more blatant in my ignorance. The car runs but I have no clue if it is set up correctly. What should it idle at? I can't run it down to the corner garage for a check up? I guess mainly what are warning signs that something is wrong?

01-07-2012, 10:52 PM	#5
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Specs for a model B? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Things like: it is difficult to start (following the choke instructions in the owners manual); once started, it runs rough, even when warmed up, or worse yet, won't stay lit; it accelerates poorly or unevenly; at any given speed it bucks or backfires: it won't attain a speed of at least 50 mph in 3rd gear. (A properly tuned Model B will accelerate smartly and smoothly and will beat a stock '32 V-8 in a drag race for the first fifty yards.) The proper procedure for setting the points on your four-cylinder distributor are included in Chapter 6 in your copy of the 1932 Ford book (I don't have mine handy right now, but there's always the index at the back of Volume 2). Not all of the potential symptoms cited above can be corrected in the ignition system as some of them may be the result of fuel delivery shortcomings (carburetor, fuel pump, etc.) or a combination of ignition/coil problems and fuel delivery shortcomings. Despite the above comment, still consult your Service Bulletin copy as the correct brake adjustment procedure starts with the correct positioning of the arms on the brake cross shaft attached to the back of the center cross member. To ignore this first step may result in lost leverage in the system and less than optimal brake performance even if the car seems to stop okay without pulling or swerving. Have you checked your brake shoes and drums to make sure that all of them are free of grease and there's no evidence that any grease or oil has ever gotten on the linings? If there's evidence to the contrary, you must reline the brake shoes as there is no cure for contaminated brake linings except complete replacement.