Need measurements on 28-29 CCPU doors - please

[Clatterville trolley]

I have a pair of 1928-29 CCPU needing the bottoms replaced - isn't that a surprise! I have purchased the patch panels and door inside panels already to repair them, but they are sooooooo bad that I can't tell where to position them to end up with the correct size / length.
If someone would be kind enough to measure their doors from the bottom of the belt line to the end of the door both front and rear with the curve and list it here I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Jay

[Ed Saniewski]

I just went out to the barn and measured, I got 24 7/8 inches from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the belt line, which is the raised frame around the door panel. Dose the patch panel have this raised frame on the front and rear of the panel?

[Joe K]

Patch panels are available in two kinds. One which does the outer skin and does about 8" up from the lower edge. The other which does the outer skin from the belt-line DOWN to the lower edge.

This second a "whole skin" for the lower part of the door and used especially if one wants to get rid of the MASSIVE DENT usually made by the spare tire normally found at this location (when the door detent strap breaks, the door skin hits the spare tire and becomes the detent - and leaves out the "et" in the word.)

And this second DOESN'T include the upper belt moulding (impress) that I remember.

Also available for repair is an 8" or so door inner panel. I don't like the quality of these so much, but they are what they are. And covered by your inner door cardboard panel so maybe it doesn't matter so much.

Commonly seen and likely your issue is BOTH inner and outer door panels are rotted out at the bottom. To replace both really requires an OAH of the door. (overall height.)

I could measure my original door at home were I there. But I am not expected to be so until this coming weekend.

We'll watch and see if anyone else gives the number. The beltline down number already given may work.

Joe K

[Dave in Petaluma]

I measure 24 15/16" from the bottom of the door to the start of the outward bulge of the belt rail, at both front and back of the door.

[Russ B]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

I just went out to the barn and measured, I got 24 7/8 inches from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the belt line, which is the raised frame around the door panel. Dose the patch panel have this raised frame on the front and rear of the panel?

That is what I got on the front

Originally Posted by Dave in Petaluma

I measure 24 15/16" from the bottom of the door to the start of the outward bulge of the belt rail, at both front and back of the door.

That is what I got on the rear

Sounds like 24-29/32" will do it.

[pooch]

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Originally Posted by Joe K

Patch panels are available in two kinds. One which does the outer skin and does about 8" up from the lower edge. The other which does the outer skin from the belt-line DOWN to the lower edge.

This second a "whole skin" for the lower part of the door and used especially if one wants to get rid of the MASSIVE DENT usually made by the spare tire normally found at this location (when the door detent strap breaks, the door skin hits the spare tire and becomes the detent - and leaves out the "et" in the word.)

And this second DOESN'T include the upper belt moulding (impress) that I remember.

Also available for repair is an 8" or so door inner panel. I don't like the quality of these so much, but they are what they are. And covered by your inner door cardboard panel so maybe it doesn't matter so much.

Commonly seen and likely your issue is BOTH inner and outer door panels are rotted out at the bottom. To replace both really requires an OAH of the door. (overall height.)

I could measure my original door at home were I there. But I am not expected to be so until this coming weekend.

We'll watch and see if anyone else gives the number. The beltline down number already given may work.

Joe K

With the mention of door strap breakage, after it took me a while and fair bit of cost to get my new side window glass in, I am worried about the strap breaking with the window up and it being smashed by the mirror.

What is the safety record of the repro rubber door straps?

[Joe K]

What is the safety record of the repro rubber door straps?

Not good. Back in the day, the Argentinian stuff was all that was available. I went through three straps. They all tend to crack in short time and I suspect there isn't sufficient "cord" inside as one of them snapped wholesale.

I asked Tam about them and he had no solution. "We sell what we can get - and what we get ain't too good."

He suggested I get away from the footman loops (what the metal attachment is called) and the rubber straps and try an installation similar to what is used on the cars where at least one end is attached to a metal plate.

I think the center to center between holes line up but the length may not be correct.



Hmm. That was 15 years ago - at least. Maybe the new rubber loops are better?

Joe K

[wrndln]

Would someone that has installed patch panels on CCPU doors please state whether the patch panels were properly curved and the bottom bead formed correctly? I suspect there is only one maker of the patch panels, but maybe there are a couple manufactures of them. It would be nice to know where the patch panels were purchased. I will probably need to use patch panels on my doors (the smaller ones), so I would like to know the quality and fit of the patch panels.
Rusty Nelson

[Joe K]

I have bought both the replacement 8" bottoms and the larger "half skin." Also the inner panel which I have already expressed a doubt about quality.

Of the two, the 8" bottoms seem better curved. In fact, I can sort of lay it on top of the damaged door and see that the curve fit is pretty good.

As to the raised edge/bead on this, it seems OK. It didn't strike me as appreciably different on the sides where you'll see a juncture. The bottom might have been a tad larger but since so much of the existing door was gone I couldn't tell if the patch was made correctly (this raised edge/bead bottom MIGHT have been a skosh larger in real life.)

And they give you sufficient and similar to original material to curl around the backside and complete the joint.

I have given consideration to "leading" this clamp joint edge on the three sides but have yet to fully assemble. I'm probably going to half-lap the horizontal joint between upper and new lower and weld that with the MIG - and I want to see how it all comes together before I get the solder pot out for the edges.

I have purchased a half skin for yet another door. The raised edge/bead seem similar. I don't think the curve is nearly as pronounced on this - but it may not matter as the juncture between new and old occurs up near the belt-line anyway, and the reinforcement of the belt emboss/window area will help make the transition easier.

I have not compared this half panel to the more intact door of 8" repair (which I should do.)

In general, I'm satisfied that the panels are close, are within a hand grenade aim of "on target," and recognize some minor fudging/compromise will be required. More so on the larger panel.

But for that half panel we're talking about recovering a door which probably should have gone in the trash.

How can one argue with that? I am NOT prepared to pop $1400 for a new door.

The 8" bottom came from Tams and the half panel came from Snyders. I think they all come from the same place.

Joe K

[wrndln]

Thanks for the info, Joe.
Rusty Nelson

[Clatterville trolley]

Thanks for all the input on this topic !! I am using the shorter of the two patch options and the measurement from the 'crease' where the belt 'bulge' ends on the lower edge and the start of the flatter / low crown segment going down to the bottom edge is the one I am after - although an over-all-length measurement should work as well as long as it is measured with the curvature of the door too.
Yet, now that I think about it, would a door that the curve has been flattened some be longer or would that not make any difference??
I purchased them from Bratton's I think, but can't remember for sure - might have been Mike's. Jay