Rear spring shackle bushing intallation???

[richard crow]

get ford nos ones all of the repros are larger. if you get after market mike them you will find there a larger dia. i file them to correct size.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by richard crow

i file them to correct size.

What diameter is that Richard?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by glennpm

What diameter is that Richard?

Original specification was +.003" to +.0045".

NOS pins are much better than the repops for two main reasons. 1) they are round. Most repops I'd measured were not. 2) the way the NOS pins are manufactured (packing) is MUCH better quality and as such will last a LONG time.

[glennpm]

Thanks Kube

[glennpm]

Back to my post #13, chilling and heating to 400° will yield ~.003, all the clearance you need and you can save about $200 in shipping costs.


Glenn

[SoCalCoupe]

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Pulled myself out of my funk on this project and ordered some "easy" bushings. Checked the Pete & Jakes reference from Duece Lover but there was a 6-week back-order. The '41 Ford is a really odd duck and nothing fits. Thanks Kube for the offer of mail-order mechanical work. Speedway claims to have these in stock. They should arrive this weekend. Managed to get the remains of my third attempt at installing aftermarket bushings out last weekend. Wish me luck this weekend. 4th time's the charm. Can't wait to get my coupe back on the road!

[3W Hank]

My 37 rearaxle has been out for decades here in Sweden so get the old bushings out I use heat and hammer them out but smell was terrible, but shell was still in axle so I had put it up in my mill to remove them and not get into axle material.
Then I talked to several guys and read on Hamb/Fordbarn on bushings.
Many was disapointed on rubber quality ( could go bad very fast ) so I would lathe up a set in quality material or plastic ( used in rally cars suspension ) or lathe them in brass.
Then one guy said the Ford style is the best in torision.
Another one in many years in the said std is good but one can ruin them in installation very easy… so he used aftermarket in rubber.
I find a NOS set here ( both front and rear ) and bougt them ( not cheap ) so even if I make a tool ( and not press on axle = just bushing shell = I’m worry I ruin the bushing.
Ok as one said hone up hole for deburrs, check on correct press ( ex 0.003” ) maybe heat up ( it can’t be to warm vs this desight is leather inside ) but I has not install them yet.
But whats really worry me is the spring, that spring has some charp edges and it can fast ruin this old nice stuff.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 3W Hank

My 37 rearaxle has been out for decades here in Sweden so get the old bushings out I use heat and hammer them out but smell was terrible, but shell was still in axle so I had put it up in my mill to remove them and not get into axle material.
Then I talked to several guys and read on Hamb/Fordbarn on bushings.
Many was disapointed on rubber quality ( could go bad very fast ) so I would lathe set of quality material or plastic ( used in rally cars suspension ) or lathe them in brass.
Then one guy said the Ford style is the best in torision.
Another one in many years in hobby in prewar style said std is good but one can ruin them in installation very easy… so ge used aftermarket rubber.
I find a NOS set here ( both front and rear ) and bougt them ( not cheap ) so even if I make a tool ( andnot press on axle = just bushing shell = I’m worry I ruin the bushing.
Ok as one said hone up hole for deburrs, check on correct press ( ex 0.003” ) maybe heat up ( cant be to warm vs this desight is leather inside ) but I has not install them yet.
But whats really worry me is the spring, that spring has some charp edges and it can fast ruin this old nice stuff.

The pins are very easy to install within the springs. The end of the spring expands slightly.
If you make a tool to press these pins in, it must press on the shell of the pin AND the threaded center section simultaneously.
Revisit my post #15 and you can see a KRW tool built specifically for this task. I have never ruined a bushing using this tool. The "working end" has a bushing that is threaded upon the center pin and butts up against the outer shell. The opposite end of the tool holds a bushing that centers the tool to the perch so the pin is pressed in straight.

Your friend that advised the NOS pins are best for torsion was correct.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Kube

The pins are very easy to install within the springs. The end of the spring expands slightly.
If you make a tool to press these pins in, it must press on the shell of the pin AND the threaded center section simultaneously.
Revisit my post #15 and you can see a KRW tool

Hi Kube,


Could you post pictures of how the KRW tool does this?



Glenn

[rockfla]

I machined my own bushing press tool on my lathe for my hydraulic shop press. I used a Grd 5 bolts and machined it down, turned a rabbit for it to fit just inside the spring shackle bushing, then bored and tapped it in the center so it threads onto the bushing shaft and pushes both the shaft and bushing at the same time!!! IF you would like one, let me know your measurements and I will fab one up for you. Took me 10X more time to get the spring set up in my press than it took to press them out. For the rearend housing you can use it and a BFH or I have also used my air hammer to push the rear end bushing out.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi Kube,

Could you post pictures of how the KRW tool does this?

Glenn

Found a drawing you used Kube here, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...6&postcount=13


and Terry,OH posted the instructions but too small to read here


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...44&postcount=5


I see how it works now!

[CrazyBackyardBuilder]

Here is an updated shackle with an original look. I have been thinking about using.



https://www.millworkshotrod.com/coll...es-plain-steel

[Terry,OH]

Just a couple of suggestions regarding the pressing tools used on the KRW screw press.
Make the OD about .010" smaller in diameter than the hole for the shackle pin.
Make the hole depth longer than the typical length of the threaded ends of the shackle.
also a slight taper from the flat end to the ID hole.
I suggest these so the tool presses on the end of the shackle OD AKA the shell.
From the shackles I have installed suggest to center both ends of the hole to the press so the press is pushing the shackle straight into it's hole.
The hole in the spring and the perch are not under size so I clean them with a 3/4" or 7/8" hand reamer so no additional material is removed. This does remove rust build up and any other debris in the hole.