Roll-Down rear window won't.

[Walt Ebie]

My '30 coupe has a roll-down rear window that will roll down but getting it back up requires one person to turn the crank and another to pull up on the glass. I tried squirting some WD-40 around the edges, especially the bottom and trying to get that to soak down and loosen things up but it didn't help. Any other ideas short of dismantling the back of the cab to actually get at the mechanics of the window?

[d.]

knowing that WD-40 is a solvent and not a lubricant, you might want to try some dry Teflon spray to ease the friction.

[Walt Ebie]

Thanks - I'll pick some up in the morning - I had tried the WD-40 after someone told me it might loosen things up......then I also tried some silicone spray with no luck. They did make it roll down easier but going back up was still a pain. Tomorrow I'll try the Teflon.

[1931 flamingo]

Does the glass "cock" to one side or the other going up?? If so the glass might not be the right size...................
Paul in CT

[Walt Ebie]

No, the glass goes up evenly and even pulling it up, bit by bit, it won't pull up more to one side than the other.

[Utopia Texas]

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You not only need to lubricate the crank mechanism but need to get something like grease on the track the roller runs in while the window goes up and down. Over the years I've had some success spraying lithium grease down from the upper opening but taking the panel off and really getting lube to the moving parts is the best long term way to get smooth performance. There may also be worn parts that need replacement that you will not find unless the parts are accessible for inspection.

[KGBnut]

If the channels are felt covered, I don't like to use any liquid or greasy lubricant. I use powdered graphite. I shoot it in right where the glass meet the felt channel, and then roll the window up and down a few time. You might need a second application of graphite.

Just be careful with it. I can be messy stuff. After you are done, clean off any overspray of powder with compressed air.

As for the regulator and crank mechanism, I like white lithium grease.

Ken

[Mitch//pa]

I have found white lithium grease to dry up like a rock, and have not used it since the late 80's... Newer synthetic based lubes are much more resilient.. IE brake caliber slide grease

[Oldbluoval]

Gravity lets the window down
The spring helps the window up
Are you sure the spring on the regulator is not broken or weak?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

On the FELT, I use PAM Skillet Spray or PLEDGE Dusting Spray. I also make Model A GRAVY & RESTORE Old Cast Iron cookware!
Bill Cooks

[Walt Ebie]

Now that I've tried the Teflon Dry spray lube on the side and bottom felt with some success, the window is still very hard to raise the last 2 inches or so from the top and cocks just a bit to the drivers' side. After more than 30 years of unuse by two previous drivers there may well be a lot of built-up dust and gunk on the regulator and channels that can only be removed by gaining access to the upholstery panels and removing them to see what's going on. My Les Andrews' books give info on doing that with the door windows but nothing on the rear window. Anyone know of a video or instructions that can tell me how to go about getting into it? It may be more of a major operation than I want to get into without some good instruction. Any help on that?

[Dale G.]

What works for me is Ivory dish soap. Throw away flux brushes work well because they are the same width as the channel. Squirt the soap on the brush right out of the bottle, then rub it into the channel both sides. Run the window up till it starts to stick, bring it down, put some more soap in the channel then try again. If you can get the window all the way up without pulling on the glass, roll it down and soap it again. Keep doing until it stops sticking. This is how they do it in the trim shops. If this does not work totally, and the regulator is lubricated, then you need to address the regulator. Good luck.

[Walt Ebie]

Sounds like an idea but how I get to the regulator if I need to? That's where I need a video or some instructions and they seem to be hard to come by. Surely other guys have worked on this same problem.

[1931 flamingo]

Should be able to get to it by taking the seat or just the back of it off/out??
Paul in CT

[Keith True]

Using WD 40 on old rubber lined channels will attack the rubber in them.It is more or less diesel with the fat taken out and perfume put in.If it gets a chance to soak it will swell rubber up,sometimes turn it into jelly,then dry back up and harden again.I totally ruined the channels in a 49 pickup using WD 40.I gave them a good squirt every day,until I realized I had turned them into goo.Newer and fresher rubber channels probably would take a lot more abuse,with the high synthetic content of a lot of that stuff WD might not even affect it.

[Mitch//pa]

Use silicone spray on all rubber glass runs and rubber products

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree, use silicone or graphite. My 1991 Olds power windows got so slow the electric motor circuit breaker would kick out, but silicone took care of it.

[loubob]

Check out some/any long established glass shops.
Ask them if they've ever done glass replacement on a rear roll up window similar to yours.

[Gary WA]

Try a metal coat hanger if you can get to gears let what ever lubricant you use run down the hanger to the part that needs lube. also a mirror/flashlight you may be able to look between glass and frame to locate gears.

[Gary WA]

Will this help?Shows regulator location.Regulator similar to side windows. Article in How to restore Your Model A Vol 4 pg56