Model A Steering Wheel Repair and Painting

[Ron the Coilman]

Question for the experts here.

Can anyone tell me someone who specializes in repairing cracks and painting of Model A steering wheels? Alternatively is there someone who works on the reproduction steering wheels to get rid of that unsightly molding flashing?

I know there has to be someone out there who specializes in this?

Ron Patterson
Pestosky, Michigan

[Oldbluoval]

It’s not that tough.
On cracks bondo or better yet Devcon (it’s black).
Work down, then fine sand the whole thing. Then paint

Flashings on repop can be ground off carefully using Drexel or the like. Then a fine file in the areas, fine sand and compound.

I know I did NOT answer your question. Most I knew are no longer with us, regretfully

[Gary WA]

Old method easy to remove flashes as stated earlier. hopefully able to read this article. wet sanding with very fine paper works well been there done that.

[chrs1961815]

There was a MARC article a few years ago about how to make a reproduction steering wheel look original. I just did one a few months ago for my car and used the article as a guide. It was pretty easy to do it, just takes some time, a razor blade, and a file. The harder part was after when I chose to clear coat it to preserve it forever.

[lrf]

Got a swap meet free-bee 30/31 steering wheel with many cracks, Dremeled the cracks about 3/8 inch deep, filed an undercut for better Devon holding, masking taped over the Devon glue to keep it in place while drying, then used files and wet and dry sandpaper to smooth. Might add I needed more than one application of Devon in some places. Used black bumper spray paint. It came out a dull black much like original. Don't throw any Model A part away, it can usually be saved after some thought. Keep driving your "A"!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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It has been my experience that when the Bakelite becomes dried out and stops adhering to the metal hoop or spokes, you can ‘patch’ it all you like however the adjacent areas to the repair then start to crack and release. For the home hobbyist that is just trying to bandaid an original wheel, it probably is considered acceptable but if you are paying someone to do the repair, it is my opinion that it is not prudent money spent.

Trimming the flashing on the reproduction wheel is not hard, ....however it is time consuming. Unless restoring for total accuracy, the reproduction wheel is the best option IMHO.

[Joe K]

Brent is probably correct. Doing an older wheel is probably fine for a "driver," but be aware that pieces CAN come off in your hands while driving and one has to be aware of the possibility.

My wheel restorations have been done using wheels which are 80 percent "there." They can be cracked but one can "sound out" the adjacent area to determine if more needs removal or if you don't want to go there.

My filler is common epoxy, which sets in an hour (according to directions) but remains "tacky" for up to two days afterwards (This seems common for epoxies - their setting is chemical dependent but they don't come to full strength in only an hour and the process continues over many days.)

About a day after filling, the filled portions can be sanded level using one of the scotchbrite blocks - which conform well without getting below the original surface. The sanding process seems to transfer "particulate" to the epoxy fill which is normally clear or translucent but assumes the color/feel of the wheel. The crack "disappears."

This, given a few more days and time in the sun, I then give several coats of black lacquer which as lacquer does hardens to a very thin layer. Sanding with 600 after each coat.

The last wheel by this method I thought a VERY fine result - until I realized I did not check before starting about "loose chunks" that might be floating around in the hollow interior of the wheel rim. As one turns the wheel, one hears the "tinkle-tinkle" of those chunks as they fall to the low spot of the wheel.

So check for loose chunks BEFORE beginning. They might be a reason NOT to do a wheel.

As I say - this now a Driver Wheel.

Joe K

[katy]

I filled in cracks and divots with bondo, painted the whole wheel about 4-5 year ago, has held up well ever since.

[Ed in Maine]

One of the difficult areas to repair are the grooves around the circumference of the wheel. I found that these grooves are concentric with the steering shaft. I put the wheel on a suitable dowel and put on my drill press. Using the small round cutting balls in my Dremel set, I put one in the chuck of the drill press and carefully rotated the wheel to repair the grooves. It wasn't perfect but after painting, it looked very nice. Ed

[GerryAllen]

On the Lions Gate Model A cCub web site you will see a fellow giving a seminar on how to repair a steering wheel.

[Oldbluoval]

My post was about wheels that just have minor cracks and deep imperfections
If the wheel has deteriorated to where it is delaminating from the core metal…..time to get another.