Correct color wire

[ctvpa]

Does anyone know the corect color wire for the generator outlet and generator ground wire for a 34 V8?

Thank you
Craig

[Kube]

Um, what year?

[ctvpa]

Originally Posted by Kube

Um, what year?

You know, sometime you can make excuses, but yes, this was just plain stupid


1934 V8

Thank you for pointing this out.

[koates]

Hi there, When rebuilding these generators I use a very flexible fine multi strand black cotton covered wire here. Ordinary plastic or overbraided plastic automotive wire is just too stiff to allow free movement of the spring loaded brush arm to keep good tension of the positive brush on the commutator. That wire connects from the insulated positive brush holder through the rubber grommet in the top of the generator and connects to the rear (ARM) terminal on the cutout. The other wire comes out the top of one field coil, through the rubber grommet and connects to ground under one of the cut out mounting screws. This ground wire does not have to be as flexible as the other positive wire. The 3rd brush wire from the field coils needs to be very flexible also. Now that black flexible wire is near impossible to buy here in Australia now and I have a very little left for my own use. Roy Nacewicz (Ford Bolts) did list these two generator wires in a little kit he makes up, but I have not seen them. Hope they are flexible. The positive wire is RED and the ground wire is BLACK. His part number for this kit is T-96-04 cost $9.95. Many generators I have rebuilt over the years have been stuffed up and not working because of the use of ordinary automotive (stiff) wire for this application. Hope this helps you. Regards, Kevin.

[Terry,OH]

Red wire is the generator output to the cut out and the black wire is Ground. The black wire is usually very flexible wire.

[koates]

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Hi Terry, Sorry but the Red generator main output wire to the cut out Armature terminal has to be flexible because it has to move easily with the positive spring loaded brush holder as the brush wears down. The Black field ground wire does not matter so much because it never moves. This must be this way for reliable generator operation. I have seen many generators with ordinary automotive wire used here which causes trouble because the brush spring tension is compromised. Regards, Kevin.

[Kube]

[QUOTE=ctvpa;791734]You know, sometime you can make excuses, but yes, this was just plain stupid



Rest assured you are NOT alone
It appears you've got your answer which is great!

[ctvpa]

Thank you all, I hope I can return the favor some day

[Kurt in NJ]

I had been looking for a source of this special wire, in November I went to the "pumpkin run" and I found these NOS Ford generator wires, they are for model "A", but the wire is the same, there is no rubber or any other insulating materiel or varnish, just 2 layers of woven thread.

Most modern primary wire is 16 strands on .030 copper for 18 gauge ---not very flexible and bending it will quickly fray the strands
the original wire looks to be 60-100 strands for 18 gauge

i used to rebuild a lot of A generators, I have re-insulated original wire using the outer covering from a shoelace, I don't know if that type of shoelace is still made, I probably used found in old shoes laces, to prevent the fraying of the ends I would wrap with thread and add a drop of glue

I an curious what the date code is on your generator, "H" was used for 1929, "I" was skipped so it couldn't be confused with 1, 1933 used "N", I would think "O" would be skipped for 34 so it wouldn't be confused with 0, numbers 1-12 would be for the month ---the month would be the same or a month or so earlier than the engine #