Restoration help

[1stford]

Hey guys. I'm working to get this truck done and I have a few questions that I need some help on.

I'm having some issues with these splash pans. I think I'm one short and I can't figure out where they go, maybe even missing some pieces, wondering if they are the right ones?

The other issue is this rubber bumper gasket is not fitting correct. I believe that everything is lined up and it's not an install issue? These are reproduction pieces.

[51 MERC-CT]

Are the bumper brackets lifted as high as they will go?
If not loosen the mount bolts an lift to see if that improves the situation.

[rotorwrench]

What model are we looking at here?

[V8ER]

The smaller pan (the upper one in the picture) goes on the right side of the engine between the engine and the frame. It attaches to the frame and bends around the starter. Don't be surprised if you have to bend it to get it to fit around the exhaust pipe. It should be black. You do not have the left side engine pan.

[V8ER]

The bumper arm gasket is upside down.

[Talkwrench]

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Mine does the same . I have one 35 guard and a 36 guard : o 0

[Ken/Alabama]

Does the other side look like this? As mentioned try swapping sides with them.

[1stford]

It's a 36 truck. The other side looks the same as far as the gap goes. The center pan that appears to go under the radiator will not fit properly?

[1stford]

So I'm just going to use this thread as my general "question" thread so I don't have to start a different one every time. This week I'm going to put the engine in my truck. I've never installed a flat head and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions or things that I must do or not do, basically I'm looking for experience here. I'm going to post some pictures of what I've got. A couple of questions I do have.

1936 truck
I believe it's a 1949 8ba engine
I'm thinking 1939 transmission
Is there torque specs for the fly wheel, pressure plate and bell housing? Will 1936 engine mounts work with this application.

[1stford]

So I was going to hook up the linkage from the clutch pedal to transmission and it seems like maybe I've got something wrong. As you can see the rod does not go strait to the clutch release pedal. Any ideas on what is causing this issue? Thanks

[34coupe]

wrong clutch arm, you can heat and bend the arm so it lines up. Dave

[1stford]

Originally Posted by 34coupe

wrong clutch arm, you can heat and bend the arm so it lines up. Dave

I just jumped on there internet and it looks like I can buy different clutch arms for it. I saw van pelts had some. Maybe that should be my route.

[chap52]

Call in your order to Van Pelts. Mac is a great guy and full of valuable info. Always ready to answer your questions.

[nelsb01]

The center pan goes under the front of the grille. Line the d-nuts up with the bottom edge of the inside of the grille. You are missing 2 L brackets that hold the back corners to the frame. These can be made. Most of these were bent over the years, so some fitting will be needed. It's one of the challenges of putting it back together.

[Don Rogers]

1st Ford, Here's a photo of a 35/36 clutch/brake linkage. Your clutch pedal assembly is the culprit

[Bored&Stroked]

It looks like you already have the transmission and maybe the engine in the car. I like to bolt them together and install them as one unit whenever I can - just makes it a lot easier to get the transmission input shaft and clutch disk aligned. The standard torque specs for the flywheel and clutch disc are on the internet - VanPelt probably has them listed. I usually use red lock-tight on my clutch plate bolts - maybe that is just me, but I like the little extra added insurance. Make sure you have the correct 'shoulder bolts' for the clutch plate and flywheel - they are specific to the task and available from a variety of early Ford Parts folks. On the back of the transmission, put a lot of 'lubriplate' type grease all over the u-joint, inside the round 1/2 ball cover and all over the outside of it. I pack quite a bit of grease on the u-joint itself . . . usually using a plastic bag to work it into the rollers are much as possible.

I'm not an expert of the water pumps and motor mounts - though it appears you have the later 'truck pumps', so I believe they just bolt right up (with correct motor mount pads, bolts, etc). I know on 34 frames, we used some specially made u-bend type pieces that went above the vibration motor-mount pads - to align the later pumps to the 34 frame hole positions . . . not sure if you need something similar in 36? Anybody know?

[Karl Wescott]

Regarding the bumper grommets, these are sometimes mistakenly sold as 1935-37. 1935 fenders have a full bead across the bottom of the bumper bracket opening and use the same grommet as a passenger car. 1936-37 Ford slotted the fender and changed the grommet to one that is pickup only. If there is a Ford based part number it should begin with 67-, if it begins with 48- its the earlier style.

[1stford]

Can anyone tell me:
1). Did 1936 ford truck come from factory with rear bumper

2). What fender support brackets go on the front and rear fenders of a 1936 ford truck.

thanks so much.
Jeremie

[Tinker]

In 1936 they didn't have hydro brakes! Little heat bending of the arm and/or rod modification will get you there.

Bumper yes.

[1stford]

Originally Posted by Tinker

In 1936 they didn't have hydro brakes! Little heat bending of the arm and/or rod modification will get you there.

Bumper yes.

Thanks for the input on this. I've got another questions about parts house. Normally I use Van pelt or Roy Nacewiz for everything I can. Drake for the trim parts but a lot of what i"m looking for is not available from any of them. I found everything I need on Mac's site. Is there any difference in the products Macs offers VS say drake or are they all selling the same thing?