brake drum stud's

[coolcoupe]

Wondered what the best way to put the studs in 47 car front new drums ?

[supereal]

You wlll need to have the old studs pressed out. Usually the knurled part is firmly rusted into place. Likewise, the new studs need to be pressed into place. We also tack weld the head of each stud to be sure it will not turn due to enlargement of the hole in the drum. If the stud comes loose, removing the lug nuts and the wheel can be a real challenge, especially out on the road in the case of a flat.

[coolcoupe]

Thanks for reply, what do you use to press them in ? A big hammer ? Moe

[Andy]

The studs MUST be cut out. They are swedged over to actually become rivets!! I use a 5/8 deep hole saw. The swedged part is soft and they cut with a cheap saw. I like to pull new one in with the threads. A press or vice also works. Support the flange to prevent bending the hub.

[19Fordy]

A little SEARCH will do ya. (Install wheel studs)
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ll+wheel+studs

[richard crow]

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do not cut the swedged with a hole sore if you intend to use the drum turn the drum up side down grind the stud flush with the hub now drive the stud out toward the front or center punch the stud & drill with a 1/2 bit about half way & then with a drift drive the stud out .when you install the new studs bring it to a mechine shop & have them swedged .you never saw a factory one welded. welding the stud does not hold the drum to the hub allowing movement with out the swedge you are counting on the lug nuts to pinch the drum not a good choice

[tubman]

Originally Posted by richard crow

do not cut the swedged with a hole sore if you intend to use the drum turn the drum up side down grind the stud flush with the hub now drive the stud out toward the front or center punch the stud & drill with a 1/2 bit about half way & then with a drift drive the stud out .when you install the new studs bring it to a mechine shop & have them swedged .you never saw a factory one welded. welding the stud does not hold the drum to the hub allowing movement with out the swedge you are counting on the lug nuts to pinch the drum not a good choice

Not to be argumentive, but that's the way they did it from the factory on a lot of makes and models.

[Andy]

The hole saw does not go all the way thru the drum. The swedge is tapered and once the saw hits the shoulder, the remnant spins and prevents more cutting. The original hole is full size and the only part that gets cut is on the taper which would do nothing in the future.

[richard crow]

tubman true but the rim on those cars were designed for it & some used cap screws to hold the drum in place.

[tubman]

I just had a front wheel and tire off my '51 today. After I removed that, the only thing that was holding the drum on were a couple of those little spring steel strips that threaded over the wheel studs to keep the drum from falling off when you changed a tire. The wheel (stock, anyway) is designed to have a clamping surface compatible with the face of the drum it sits on. If that's not enough to keep the drum in place, I'm a monkey's uncle.

[Frank Miller]

I'm not familiar with 46 drums. Are they pressed in or swedged? Two entirely different answers. I've driven pressd in out with a hammer and then installed using the threads, nuts and washers. Swedged is a completely different animal that will require a big press and a special tool to install.