Hello all, new to the forum!

[firefirefire90]

hello everyone, my name is Nick and I am 20 years old. I am pretty sure I have a model A. I am not 100% sure on everything, but although my age says my technical knowledge is low, my mechanical knowledge is quite high. I have been working on my own cars/motorcycles since I was 14 so my knowledge is up there. Well, here are some pictures of my new ride!

[Chris in WNC]

WOW! what a nice Coupe!

find your local Model A club, get thick skinned and learn to ignore the grumps, naysayers and nitpickers therein. look fo a mentor in the club who will help you along the way.

in SF area you should get together with Marco Tahtaras & his circle. they will be good people to know.

[Rowdy]

Glad to see some youth are getting involved again in the hobbie. You are about the same age as my oldest duaghter. I bought my first A when I was 13. Never will regret it. Rod

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Yes it is an "A". Nice car with some "special" parts! Don't sell or trade anything until you find its value! Good Luck, Jim

[Vanspeed]

Yes that is an A, I agree with Jim, don't sell anything off of it. If you want to make it more yours, keep what you take off and store it away. It is only original once. Nice accessory gauge panel!

[firefirefire90]

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I dont understand what is so special? Could any of you point in my direction what is not standard on this? If I cannot put a lot of money or effort into this build(i'm still in college), I will either let it sit in my garage or sell it to an enthusiast. I'm going to dive into it tomorrow and see what I find. I'd like to clean out the carb, put some oil in the pistons, and see if she'll fire up!

knowing how projects are, I doubt it will be that easy haha!

[Mike V. Florida]

"If I cannot put a lot of money or effort into this build(i'm still in college), I will either let it sit in my garage or sell it to an enthusiast. "

First of all, what do you want to do with it? I'll narrow it down to three broad areas.

1) Restoration - to bring back to original look, parts etc.
2) Mild Modification - To bring back to almost original look, some or all of the following; add non original accessories, change to juice brakes, different engine configurations such as ignition, voltage etc.
3) Rod - change out the engine for non stock like a v8 or pinto engine, remove body parts, chop & channel etc.

Like I said there are BROAD interpitations.

Tell us what you want to do and we will guide you to get the car you want.

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

"If I cannot put a lot of money or effort into this build(i'm still in college), I will either let it sit in my garage or sell it to an enthusiast. "

First of all, what do you want to do with it? I'll narrow it down to three broad areas.

1) Restoration - to bring back to original look, parts etc.
2) Mild Modification - To bring back to almost original look, some or all of the following; add non original accessories, change to juice brakes, different engine configurations such as ignition, voltage etc.
3) Rod - change out the engine for non stock like a v8 or pinto engine, remove body parts, chop & channel etc.

Like I said there are BROAD interpitations.

Tell us what you want to do and we will guide you to get the car you want.

My dad and I have been restoring MGB's for quite some time so a full restoration has been thrown around, but I'm not too interested in modifying or making it a rat rod. Although I like that style, it is not the direction I like to take my vehicles. I would like to keep this car as original as possible, and just sort of make it "nice." A respray is out of the question, but getting the thing running/drivable is a possibility for the time being. The engine seems simple enough to tinker on while I have spare time and getting the car running although not simple, doesn't seem unachievable.

[Rowdy]

It looks to be in good condition, possibly a 1960's restoration of sorts based on what I can see (likely just the paint is that new). Curios as to how many miles the Odometer has on it. Let us know what you need for basic parts and guidance to help you get it on the road safely. I difinately would not change mush as far as appearance. although floorboards would be nice. There is a site on the net that has plans for cutting new floorboards. I can not remembber the sites address, but I am sure someone has it saved. Rod

[firefirefire90]

the car has 31k or 51k on the clock, i'll be back out there working on it in a minute, but I'll for sure let you all know what I need! I have no idea what I don't need or what is there yet; are there any sites for online PDF files for a manual?

[Model A Man]

If it were mine I would get it running and make sure the brakes are in xlnt working order and drive the heck out of it. Don't worry to much about the way the paint or body look, as we love them in every condition, heck take it to a car show and park next to a high dollar street rod and see which cars gets the most looks and comments. I am betting it will be your car that will be the hit of the show.

[Ross/Kzoo]

Another option would be to clean it up thoroughly, drive it, then determine what you want to do.

[Rowdy]

Here is a link to help you get started. Also check out the links page on the site and a whole new world of info is out there. This site has instuctions on operation including starting and Marco's A barnyard has info on timing and some other good tech info. Rod

http://www.jmodela.com/

[WTSHNN]

I started restoring my truck when I was 20 and still in college. I started with two body panels and with a LOT of help, had a restored truck in a year and a week. I'm 28 now and have put 6,000 miles on it.

Make friends with Model A'ers that can help you find parts and answer your questions.

Ignore the people who talk down to you because you're a kid.

It looks like you have a great start to a Model A there. Get it running, make sure it is safe to drive and DRIVE IT.

-Tim

[Mike V. Florida]

firefirefire90, feel better now? We are here to help!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Neat car!!

[Hitchhiker]

that thing is so cool! Personally I would get it running and drive the wheels off of it! It looks too nice to mess with, but not nice enough not worry about driving it to the store for groceries.

[firefirefire90]

Thank you all for the kind words and not acting how I expected. On all of the BMW forums I regularly visit, the new members are rarely welcomed with open arms. What my friend and I have done is completely disassemble the carb, patrol lines, oil, and checked everything over. We have run into a snag, the keys we have to unlock the car/rumble seat, do not turn in the ignition switch. Is there anyway around this, or is a lock smith necessary?

[Hitchhiker]

Originally Posted by firefirefire90

Thank you all for the kind words and not acting how I expected. On all of the BMW forums I regularly visit, the new members are rarely welcomed with open arms. What my friend and I have done is completely disassemble the carb, patrol lines, oil, and checked everything over. We have run into a snag, the keys we have to unlock the car/rumble seat, do not turn in the ignition switch. Is there anyway around this, or is a lock smith necessary?

hot wire that baby!

[firefirefire90]

haha we decided that was our option, and that's what we're doing!!!

[firefirefire90]

okay.. hotwiring it wont work.. we're attaching both leads that go to the ignition switch together while running a fresh battery to the cable leads.. any tips on hot wiring?

well hot wiring was a bust so we put the battery leads to the starter and it turned the engine over, but it did not turn over the fan. The fan just sort of hung out and is really stiff. I am guessing I am going to have to take the head off and see what I have to work with?

[1930artdeco]

When I had my mustang it was rolling project, I parked next to a beautiful Mach 1 and got more looks and comments than it did. Trust me, just get out there and drive her and you will get more looks and comments than you know what to do with. Plus, she is a blast to drive!

Mike

[Roadster62]

Take care not to do any damage to the dash panel! If you have the original ignition cable hot wiring the car will not be an easy task without removing the cable. This was an early theft proof device Ford installed in all Model A's. Great car, have fun with it. Bob

Originally Posted by firefirefire90

haha we decided that was our option, and that's what we're doing!!!

[Marco Tahtaras]

Nice car, slow down just a little. The fan only turns by the fan belt and the bet may just be too stiff. For the moment just remove the belt but loosening the generator pivot bolt and pushing the generator against the block. I suspect the water pump will turn by hand and may need to be lubed. DO NOT be in a hurry to pull the head!

The ignition switch is a replacement type so removing the four screws holding the instrument panel in place and tilting it back will give you access to the two wires which the switch connects to close the circuit. There is no anti-theft circuit in replacement switches.

[Marco Tahtaras]

BTW, my best guess is the car was built around April 1930. The instrument panel is an accessory replacement, "aristocrat" I think they were called. I don't know if it's old or a later copy. I'm also betting the original colors of the car were Chicle Drab and Copra Drab on the body. Nice toy!

[firefirefire90]

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Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Nice car, slow down just a little. The fan only turns by the fan belt and the bet may just be too stiff. For the moment just remove the belt but loosening the generator pivot bolt and pushing the generator against the block. I suspect the water pump will turn by hand and may need to be lubed. DO NOT be in a hurry to pull the head!

The ignition switch is a replacement type so removing the four screws holding the instrument panel in place and tilting it back will give you access to the two wires which the switch connects to close the circuit. There is no anti-theft circuit in replacement switches.

Hey thank you both! I read up on the anti-theft device and we took off the dash. We're making sure not to damage anything. I also figured out this car is a 1930! I think we'll have to replace the switch regardless. I dont have the key to switch it on so there we go. Okay, well that's a possibility. The crank is moving around with the starter and is moving the belt. The belt is in turn moving but it looks like what is an Alternator/generator is all seized up. We can move the fan by hand, but it is very stiff and the belt wont move it either.. Any tips?

[firefirefire90]

Oh yeah and basically apparently the car used to be red. Is that one of the two colours you stated?

[Bruce Adams]

If it is AN ORIGINAL type "Pop Out" ignition, I do not believe you can "Hot Wire" it.
If it is a repop, hot wiring is a piece of cake.

I believe the "Pop Out" original is shorted to ground when the key is out, but hoprfully others will assist on that.

Are you near Pleasanton, CA ?

[firefirefire90]

I have no idea what the difference is, haha. Close as in a 30-45 minute car ride!

[Mike V. Florida]

If you have the original pop out swich, the dist will be shorted to ground. do you know if its positic=ve ground or negitive ground, 6 or 12 volts?

You will have to open up the dist. remove the upper plate and place some kind of insulator between the wire from the armored cable and the lower plate.

Then you will need to run a wire from the lower plate to the hot. See hot, ground question above.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Nice 'ol 30 std coupe. I notice the battery is 6 volt, and the cable running to the starter is red, indicating positive. It should be negative to the starter and positive to the ground. It looks like the original ignition/distributor cable is there too. As Marco mentioned, with that dash you should be able to hot wire across the switch. That is indeed a generator. If its frozen up, they sometimes can be loosened on the bench with a little foolin' around. If you cannot get enough slack in the belt to get it off the pulley, you can remove the retainer nut on the generator pulley and remove the pulley, thereby facilitating belt removal. I agree, do not be so eager to pull the head. Wait until its certain its absolutely necessary. As long as that's been on there, the job could turn out very badly. You have an original Zenith carburetor, a replacement four blade fan and no ahooga horn. The speedometer is the early 30 oval type. It looks like it was Chicle and Copra color to me too. If it worked, I attached a photo of a chicle and copra drab 160-C sedan so you can see the colors

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

Nice 'ol 30 std coupe. I notice the battery is 6 volt, and the cable running to the starter is red, indicating positive. It should be negative to the starter and positive to the ground. It looks like the original ignition/distributor cable is there too. As Marco mentioned, with that dash you should be able to hot wire across the switch. That is indeed a generator. If its frozen up, they sometimes can be loosened on the bench with a little foolin' around. If you cannot get enough slack in the belt to get it off the pulley, you can remove the retainer nut on the generator pulley and remove the pulley, thereby facilitating belt removal. I agree, do not be so eager to pull the head. Wait until its certain its absolutely necessary. As long as that's been on there, the job could turn out very badly. You have an original Zenith carburetor, a replacement four blade fan and no ahooga horn. The speedometer is the early 30 oval type. It looks like it was Chicle and Copra color to me too. If it worked, I attached a photo of a chicle and copra drab 160-C sedan so you can see the colors

1). Is that really how it goes? Positive goes to ground and negative to the starter? Excuse my ignorance, but how does that work since every engine i've worked on negative goes to ground and positive goes to starter.

2). I'll try that with the generator! It looks like rebuilt ones can be quite expensive so i'll try and get it to work!!

3). Yep, the carb said "ZENITH II." I cleaned out all the gunk and made my own gasket out of gasket material so hopefully it should work well!

4). I see the colour, funny.. this car must have gone about 4 colour changes. At one point, it was the colour you said, then it was lime green, then it must have been red, then it must have been changed to black.

[Geo. H]

Looks like you have an early '30 standard coupe. I would guess it originally had a trunk, and has been converted to a rumble seat. The dash panel is aftermarket. All the original dash contained was the ignition switch, an ammeter, the gas gage, and the speedometer. Late '30 cars had a round speedo.

[Rowdy]

Posotive ground on an A. All electricity needs is a path from one post to the other. The gen is polorized that way so all should be better when it is switched back right. If you get the gen unseized you may have to flash the field to get it to charge after having it hooked up backwards. Be sure the cable from the neg post to the starter is insulated, but likely that is obvious. Rod

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

Posotive ground on an A. All electricity needs is a path from one post to the other. The gen is polorized that way so all should be better when it is switched back right. If you get the gen unseized you may have to flash the field to get it to charge after having it hooked up backwards. Be sure the cable from the neg post to the starter is insulated, but likely that is obvious. Rod

So please let me know if I have this right, because I got the engine to turn over when I attached a positive lead(red) to the starter solenoid and it turned over just fine. Is it just the design of these old cars to have the negative on the starter rather than the positive? What is "flash the field"


once again thank you for being patient, I feel like i'm learning what makes up a car's mechanics all over again!

[Mike V. Florida]

"flash the field to get it to charge"

On the top of the generator is a cut out. It keeps the voltage from going back into the generator when the car is off. Take a peice of wire and jumper aross the switch for a second or 2.

[Rowdy]

Negative to the starter. I do not know if you will find this link useful, but it should be simular to your endevor. Mike explains flashing the field pretty well in his post, really not much to it. Headed to bed here, good luck. Rod

http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public...pingbeauty.htm

[pat in Santa Cruz]

originally, neg goes to starter switch. Do you really have a solenoid? that's not original. Someone could have re-wired the car with a solenoid starter. A lot can happen in 80 years. They will run when wired backwards, but they will not run well unless someone wired the coil for neg ground too.

original wiring is as follows:

Neg batt cable to starter post.

yellow wire from starter post to rt (pass) side terminal box post and up to the ammeter neg post.

yellow wire w/blk tracer from ammeter pos post to terminal box left ( drivers) post

short black wire from terminal Left post to coil neg terminal

red wire from coil pos terminal to ign switch " coil " terminal

wire cased in metal cable from switch "dist" terminal to distributor.

yellow /blk wire from generator cutout to terminal box, left (drivers side) terminal.

[Mike V. Florida]

Here is how the car was originally wired. It should help you find what is original and what is not.

[firefirefire90]

thank you thank you thank you thank you for this wiring diagram! This is soo necessary!!

By the way, is there any place to buy new wiring harnesses for this car? I read in that link(thank you Rowdy!) that the OP made one for 16 dollars but I would love to buy one ready made if I could already.

[Mike V. Florida]

In the morning ask for a copy of the Bratton's catalog from Brattons @

Bratton's Antique Auto Parts, Inc.
1606 Back Acre Circle
Mount Airy, MD 21771-7703 Toll FREE Order Number: 1-800-255-1929
Information Number: 1-301-829-9880
FAX: 1-800-774-1930 (U.S. & Canada) 1-301-829-9881 (Elsewhere)
www.brattons.com

There are other vendors but I recommend you start with them. They have exploded view drawing to go with the part numbers.

While you are on the phone, order the Les Andrews MODEL A MECHANICS HANDBOOK - VOL. 1. Part #37580 $36.00
In my opinion this is the best book for the rank beginner. Other opinions may vary.

[Rowdy]

You are wlecome. Many vendors sell A parts, but not all of them sell good parts. I noticed you are from Ca. so maybe Sacramento Valley Ford would be closer for you. I do not have their contact info, but it should not be hard to find. I buy most of my parts from Bert's Model A Ford Center in Denver (800-321-1931). The wiring harness for the basic ingition is not high priced and makes it alot simpler. I would also suggest you buy the battery cable also as 6 volts likes fine strand wires as opposed to the thicker strands of 12 volt cables. Dont forget a new grommet for the ignition cable either, I left it out on mine when I was in a hurry to rewire it and get it fired up. Ruined my wiring, filled the shop with smoke and melted my terminal box, so did not make for a good day in the shop. Luckily I had replacements on hand and fired it up later that day with the grommet in place. Its not high priced and good insurance for a couple of dollars. Rod

[Rowdy]

Looks like I had the name wrong it is Sacramento Vintage Ford. Here is their website. Also I agree with Mike V. that book is well worth the money. Rod

http://www.vintage-ford.com/

[Tom Wesenberg]

I see by that big spot on the floor that your Model A isn't house broke yet! It's time to take it out and make it go on the streets like all the other Model A's.

First fix the front bumper clamps so the bumper doesn't drop off. I always drop the oil pan and side cover and remove the old sludge before starting the engine. You can drop the oil pan upside down onto the grass to knock out the dipper tray to get at the sludge in the bottom. Sometimes it takes a few drops on the grass, or a forceful drop. Hard to tell, but it looks like you don't have the original popout switch, so it should be easy to hot wire by just connecting the two wires together on the switch. Remember the system is 6 volt POSITIVE ground, unless someone changed it. After the battery is in and just before starting it would be good to polarize the generator by jumping a wire between the 2 cutout terminals for 1 second.

As mentioned, if there's a Model A guy close by, like Marco or Dave Lopes it would be a real asset and you could be on the road in no time. I would make sure the brakes are good and properly adjusted, pack the wheel bearings, lube all the linkages, grease the car, check all the fluids, and drive it as is. Then you can get to know the car and make a list of what it needs and piece by piece replace what needs to be replaced or is misssing. Pick up what you want and store it for future use if you plan a full restoration sometime in the future. You may find it's just great the way is is and might also want to just drive it as is. That's what I'm doing with my 28 Phaeton, even though I'm planning to restore it sometime in the future. With good brakes and steering, they are fun to drive in any condition. Just yesterday I noticed that at every stop light people roll down their windows just to hear the Model A engine.

[Tom Wesenberg]

BTW Nick, the oval speedometer makes your car a first half of 1930 Model A Coupe. Nice find!

[Desi]

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Make it safe enough to drive. Drive it for a while, then restore it later. That's what I wish I had done with mine. I'ts no fun missing all the tours our club has. Best of luck to you!

[Tom Wesenberg]

That's why it's best to have at least two Model A's. One to drive and have fun while you're restoring the other one. The trouble with that is you'll have so much fun driving, that the restoration will be put on a back burner. There are at least a couple A's in our club that have been apart for 40 or more years.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Welcome to the brotherhood of Coupes with red shifter Knobs!
You have a fine start there.........way more than I had, and I think you can count ona lot of help here.
Good luck!

[Benson]

Would be a good idea to remove one battery cable before removing the dash panel!

Might be a shorted wire in there! The wires might be frayed.

I did not have time to read all the responses so if someone mentioned this ... Sorry.

[Richard/Ca]

When I got my first Model A in 1961 it was driveable and thats all. My friends and I got it running (but not before it back fired a few times and split the muffler wide open). After replacing it I drove that car every where and had a ball. Still have it. When I think of the fun we had with it before it was half a** restored I just a. So make it SAFE & Legal and have some fun for a while.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

nearest to you are Sacramento Vintage Ford in Sacto, and AllFord in Los Gatos. You can call them and they'll FedEx it to you quick.

http://www.vintageford.com/

You should join a chapter near you. You will find lots of support and hands on help. The SF chapter is a small but real friendly bunch of guys and women.

http://www.sfmodelaclub.org/

I don't know the San Diego clubs, but someone here will probably chime in and give you the contact info.

You will find most of us buy parts by catalog/mail houses, Favorites for quality are:
Brattons
Snyders
Berts
Mikes
A&L
Standard

[pat in Santa Cruz]

This spectacular '31 std coupe was restored by Jim Boehmke in Pleasanton. Its not a trailer queen, but his daily driver. Pretty nice, eh?

[Rowdy]

Sure do miss having the vendors page link to direct people to. Rod

[Paul from Maine]

Love that deluxe instument panel!

[firefirefire90]

thanks for the links guys! I would have worried about a short with the wires hooked up, but the battery is suuuper dead already, so no worries there. Seems first on the list is to make a new wiring harness, order up a new key, get the point and everything in check, rebuild the generator, get a 6V battery, switch the battery leads, and then find out why the top end of the motor wont turn.

Last question about that, is there any reason why the top end of the motor would be so difficult to turn? We can get the rest of the motor to turn over, but the fan wont really move with it.. it's like it's all stuck up in there..

[Bill in Al]

Welcome!

[Rowdy]

Likely the waterpump is stiff to the point on being on the edge of seizing up. Might want to take it off and see what that might need for rebuild parts ar atleast a good cleaning. The dront bearing can be greased with regular grease, but the back bushing requires waterpump grease. Don't forget the funny looking nut on the back bushing is a packing nut and has a packing inside. Rod

[Tom Wesenberg]

I wouldn't be so quick to replace everything. Put a battery charger on the battery 3 to 6 amp charger, and see if the battery won't take a charge. Make sure it has electrolite covering the top of the plates, and monitor the battey. If it gets very warm stop charging and buy a new battery.

By "top of the engine", I guess you just mean the water pump. It may just need grease, but don't pump much into the rear bushing or it will wind up in the radiator and coat the tubes. It is very easy to rebuild the water pump if need be.

Don't make your own wiring harness. They are very resonable to buy one all made up, if you need one. I like to rebuild the 5 engine bolt on's, namely the water pump, generator, starter, carb, and distributor. Then you will be in good shape, if the sludge has been removed from the oil pan and new oil added.
As you work on each part, just ask here for what you can't find in a few good Model A books. Jim Mason has a good book list on his site.

[firefirefire90]

oh, so the fan is attached to the water pump? How interesting! Well the starter is doing just fine, and the carb was rebuilt by yours truly, but i guess first thing I should have ordered was a manual(always did this with motorcycles, just figured there would be more DIY's on this forum like in the BMW world). The oil looked like it had been replaced recently, which is interesting.. same with the distributor. It looked brand new! I also checked on that vintageford.com and could not find a new wiring harness and the internal parts of the generator?

[Rowdy]

Yip that is the water pump. As Tom says do not overgrease the back bushing. Here is a good website for carbs, including instructions on setting the choke level. Rod

http://www.model-a.org/

[Mitch//pa]

do you guys remember seaslug. this reminds me a little of that havent heard from him for a long time i guess he lost interest

[Rowdy]

He is on Ahooga chat once in awhile. Great kid. Rod

[Mitch//pa]

did he ever get his AA together? i remember i printed out a picture of his engine hoist and hung it on my office wall.

[Rowdy]

Not all together, as he could not get the shop door open most of the winter due to the snow and the cold had moved the slab infortont of the doors and they would not swing open. I have not heard from him since mid April. Usually he peaks into the chat room late on weekends. Rod

[Tony S,Fl.]

Originally Posted by firefirefire90

My dad and I have been restoring MGB's for quite some time so a full restoration has been thrown around, but I'm not too interested in modifying or making it a rat rod. Although I like that style, it is not the direction I like to take my vehicles. I would like to keep this car as original as possible, and just sort of make it "nice." A respray is out of the question, but getting the thing running/drivable is a possibility for the time being. The engine seems simple enough to tinker on while I have spare time and getting the car running although not simple, doesn't seem unachievable.

I notice a new battery. Make sure you put the + cable to ground. The - cable to the starter. A common mastake for newbys. Feel free to ask. Nobody was born a Model A expert. Tony

[Chuck in the Burgh]

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My 2 Cents - go slow, save your money, don't sell anything - The best investment and cheapest is this site (historically) and the people on it. Information is the key - you can have a nice fun Model A for a lot less money than a "built" hotrod or fully restored A - I run a 30 A coupe and a frame off built 56 Chevy BBC 4spd car - I get as much if not more attention on the A at cruises. Look on Epay ,swap meets or any other site for some of the books on retoring model A - look read, buy the books, don't buy parts yet unles you need it to make it run. Fun = cheap, Pretty = $$$$$$ -
Just right is in between and you can go slow and your wallet will apreciate it! The more you learn about the A the more you will appreciate the early technology and the people on this site! - It took me about a year and a half before I knew what I wanted to do with my A - Unfortunately, I spent $$$$ buying parts before I really knew what I wanted to do and direction that I wanted to go. Patience = saving a lot of money!!!! Lot's of luck - go slow and enjoy the process!!

[Chuck in the Burgh]

It looks like you have a great basic car to start in any direction you decide to go - clean it up, get it running, save your money and drive it you will be surprised how much respect you will get from the "A" comunity andor the serious hotrod community. Last I knew they weren't making any more Henry Steel coupes!!! A very desireable car in either the A camp or the hotrod camp. Go Slowly!!!

[Russell in Tulsa]

Welcome, The oil will look brand new as all of the dirt has settled out and is setting in the bottom of the pan and the valve chamber. Do as Tom suggested and clean it up before actually starting it. You'll need to order the gaskets for reassembly and use lots of penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts to avoid surprises.

[TerryH]

Like a lot of the others suggested, I would do what you need to get it running, then carefully check out the various mechanicals to be sure they are working...brakes, steering, trans, etc. A lot of things on the Model A can fixed with adjustment or cleaning. I would vote to get it running and enjoy it for some time before you even think of tearing it apart. These cars are meant to be driven and are a hoot to drive around town. Good luck with it and feel free to ask lots of questions from the group here!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sacremento Vintage Ford sells wiring harness, as do Bert's 800-321-1931, Bratton's 800-255-1929, Snyder's 888-262-5712, and many others.

If you can't wiggle the distributor shaft side to side, then the bushings should be OK. When you rotate the top plate in the distributor it should be a snug fit around the center hole so the points opening will remain constant as the spark advance lever rotates the plate.

When you drain the oil, you can bend a wire to a "C" shape and stick it into the drain hole and rotate it around to see if you can pick up any sludge off the bottom of the pan. Clean oil is possible even with a thick layer of old sludge in the bottom of the oil pan.

[Mike V. Florida]

Guys, does the Sacramento Vintage form catalog have break out drawings?

Anyway,

Here is the link for the harnesses your looking for part number 00671;
http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...ing-%20Harness

Here is the link for the Generator your looking for part number 00640-0;
http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...gory=Generator

[Rowdy]

I am not sure Mike. I requested one of their catalogs and never received it.

[Mike V. Florida]

I suggested Brattons because I know they have them. I would think that for a first timer, a catalog with breakout drawings would be a must.

[Tom Wesenberg]

SVF was the only parts house that sold the correct length wiring for my 28 and 29 with drum taillight. SVF has the machine and make the wiring harness at their building. The correct harness wasn't listed in their catalog, but I called them up and asked about it. It didn't have the switch plate on the end, but that's OK, because the drum taillight with fluted headlights takes a different switch plate, which isn't being reproduced. That plate is hard to find, but I finally found a couple NOS plates from Doc Kalinka at Hershey about 5 years ago.

I would call SVF and order a part and ask them to send a catalog at the same time they ship the part. The catalog is very thick and heavy, so it has to cost SVF a fair amount of money to mail.

BTW, I tried to post this under #72 Rowdy, but it looks like it will be under Mike at #73.

[fmayer]

You have a diamond in the rough! You are young enough to take your time and as many of us have - learn by doing. Best advice - hook up with a local Model A club. There is more knowledge in those places than in all the books ever written about cars and 99% of them have friendly, helpful people. Most of all - enjoy, there is nothing like the Model A community.

[Bud]

Hi Nick,
My suggestion for what it is worth (and you probably know these things already) are to do the following:
Shine up the electrical contacts in the distributor, gap the plugs (.035"), remove corrosion from the plugs, shine up the coil wire ends plus the contact inside the coil & dist cap. Also shine up where plugs contact head. Then set your points (.018-.022). If you can, I would remove the popout switch cable from the dash and distributor. The reason for this is it will be easier to start the car if you replace the popout switch assembly with a simple switch (these are sold by the parts vendors: Sacramento Vintage Ford sells a replacement switch with keys--part number 606--for less than $20). This way if there is a problem with the popout switch you can just get it out of the picture (save it and restore later). These steps should take care of the ignition system. On old Fords corrosion of electrical connections is a problem, the better contact you can get the quicker it will start. When you get that ignition switch, order a set of points and condenser (these can also be readily obtained from NAPA). Make sure you have fresh gas and the gas does not have a lot of rust in it. I drain my gas tank into a gas can (be careful regarding fire) thru a gas filter. I do that 3 times and usually don't have problems with rust in the carburetor. Regarding the water pump, you could take it off to look at it but with a four blade fan you will have to take off the radiator and it's a long involved procedure (see Les Andrews book from MAFCA or the parts vendors). Perhaps you could back off the packing nut and it might turn. If the belt is off you can run the engine for a while on the battery (no generator) just to get a feel for noises and general initial performance. Hope this helps and good luck.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

BTW, I tried to post this under #72 Rowdy, but it looks like it will be under Mike at #73.

Go the the message to want to answer and click on "quote" and the text of the message you are trying to answer will show up.

[Rowdy]

I have not even tried the quote thing yet, I will get to that trick later. Checking out some other things for now. Rod

[Grampy]

Hi All,
I was taling to the the guys at Sac Vintage Ford the other day and they told me they had finally run out of the old catalog and that a new one was expected soon. No ETA specified, just soon. Looking forward to it.

[fordcragar]

Nice car.

[FredK]

Regarding fun with positive ground. I had just bought a 1952 DeSoto and went to jump it with my Toyota truck. I put the jumper cables on incorrectly, started the truck and as the plastic coating on the cables melted on to the ground I suddenly remembered it was pos ground. Lucky enough both cars were fine, the cables not so much.

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by Chuck in the Burgh

It looks like you have a great basic car to start in any direction you decide to go - clean it up, get it running, save your money and drive it you will be surprised how much respect you will get from the "A" comunity andor the serious hotrod community. Last I knew they weren't making any more Henry Steel coupes!!! A very desireable car in either the A camp or the hotrod camp. Go Slowly!!!

It's always fun being one of the youngest guys in the community. I hang around a lot of MGB guys in San Diego who are well into their 50's 60's and they give me a lot of respect for being into these old cars! Thanks for the tips!

Originally Posted by Russell in Tulsa

Welcome, The oil will look brand new as all of the dirt has settled out and is setting in the bottom of the pan and the valve chamber. Do as Tom suggested and clean it up before actually starting it. You'll need to order the gaskets for reassembly and use lots of penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts to avoid surprises.

Originally Posted by fmayer

You have a diamond in the rough! You are young enough to take your time and as many of us have - learn by doing. Best advice - hook up with a local Model A club. There is more knowledge in those places than in all the books ever written about cars and 99% of them have friendly, helpful people. Most of all - enjoy, there is nothing like the Model A community.

The model A community up in Norcal seems alright.. too bad they want dues every year. First car club that's ever asked for that!

Originally Posted by Bud

Hi Nick,
My suggestion for what it is worth (and you probably know these things already) are to do the following:
Shine up the electrical contacts in the distributor, gap the plugs (.035"), remove corrosion from the plugs, shine up the coil wire ends plus the contact inside the coil & dist cap. Also shine up where plugs contact head. Then set your points (.018-.022). If you can, I would remove the popout switch cable from the dash and distributor. The reason for this is it will be easier to start the car if you replace the popout switch assembly with a simple switch (these are sold by the parts vendors: Sacramento Vintage Ford sells a replacement switch with keys--part number 606--for less than $20). This way if there is a problem with the popout switch you can just get it out of the picture (save it and restore later). These steps should take care of the ignition system. On old Fords corrosion of electrical connections is a problem, the better contact you can get the quicker it will start. When you get that ignition switch, order a set of points and condenser (these can also be readily obtained from NAPA). Make sure you have fresh gas and the gas does not have a lot of rust in it. I drain my gas tank into a gas can (be careful regarding fire) thru a gas filter. I do that 3 times and usually don't have problems with rust in the carburetor. Regarding the water pump, you could take it off to look at it but with a four blade fan you will have to take off the radiator and it's a long involved procedure (see Les Andrews book from MAFCA or the parts vendors). Perhaps you could back off the packing nut and it might turn. If the belt is off you can run the engine for a while on the battery (no generator) just to get a feel for noises and general initial performance. Hope this helps and good luck.

That's not a big deal, I don't think there is water in the radiator anyway. Do you need special tools to take it off?

Originally Posted by FredK

Regarding fun with positive ground. I had just bought a 1952 DeSoto and went to jump it with my Toyota truck. I put the jumper cables on incorrectly, started the truck and as the plastic coating on the cables melted on to the ground I suddenly remembered it was pos ground. Lucky enough both cars were fine, the cables not so much.

Haha thank you for the advice. I guess negative ground was standard until the 50's/60's on many cars. I will make sure to get some new leads to the generator this weekend!


Thank you all for the solid advice. This gives me a good place to start work on the Model A!

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by firefirefire90

The model A community up in Norcal seems alright.. too bad they want dues every year. First car club that's ever asked for that!


That's not a big deal, I don't think there is water in the radiator anyway. Do you need special tools to take it off?

Our club charges dues and most clubs that I know of. Money is needed for newsletters, mailings, special event insurance, mational dues, and the list goes on.

No special tools needed and the radiator does not have to be removed (I've done mine a couple of times). The procedue is rather simple, remove light bar, hood, hood retaining rods. Place cardboard between the fan and radiator. Pull radiator forward and remove fan/pump.

[Tom from Drippin']

A different take:

First, buy Model "A" Ford Mechanics Handbook - Vol. 1 by Les Andrews.

Second, don't buy a wiring harness (yet). It does NOT contain any of the wiring needed to make the car run. It only feeds the lights.

There are several wire "sets" (available from vendors) that allow the engine to run.

Before you fire it up for the first time..drain the oil, replace the plug, remove the distributor and shaft, pour 1 Qt. oil down dist. shaft hole, install dist., finish filling crankcase with oil.

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Our club charges dues and most clubs that I know of. Money is needed for newsletters, mailings, special event insurance, mational dues, and the list goes on.

No special tools needed and the radiator does not have to be removed (I've done mine a couple of times). The procedue is rather simple, remove light bar, hood, hood retaining rods. Place cardboard between the fan and radiator. Pull radiator forward and remove fan/pump.

Ah, that's fancy! Having newsletters, insurance, etc. Our BMW clubs consist of mainly online shenanigans/meetups at places to eat. I guess it makes sense with these 80+ year old vehicles!

Originally Posted by Tom from Drippin'

A different take:

First, buy Model "A" Ford Mechanics Handbook - Vol. 1 by Les Andrews.

Second, don't buy a wiring harness (yet). It does NOT contain any of the wiring needed to make the car run. It only feeds the lights.

There are several wire "sets" (available from vendors) that allow the engine to run.

Before you fire it up for the first time..drain the oil, replace the plug, remove the distributor and shaft, pour 1 Qt. oil down dist. shaft hole, install dist., finish filling crankcase with oil.

Thanks! I'll order that mechanics handbook. I feel silly not having one yet.

[firefirefire90]

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Hey everyone! Late bump, but new progress with my coupe. We fixed a lot of the electronics on the car, but still have a ways to go to get all the lights going. I think we need a new resistor or whatever that thing is, since power isn't being given to the headlights... then somehow both the headlight bulbs blew, haha. I washed the top end of the engine out and got out a whole lot of the rust, then we turned the engine over to get the juices flowing. On order is a new waterpump, need to get some new radiator hoses, a new 6V battery(do most kragens hold these?) and an oil change, then I think the car should be good to run!

thank you all for good help! Btw, is there a page for all the vendors?

[skip]

Where did you find that dash board?

skip.

[firefirefire90]

Originally Posted by skip

Where did you find that dash board?

skip.

Came with the car I recon! A few people keep sayin it's quite the sought after dash. I'm really excited. My waterpump is in the mail, i'm picking up new battery leads tomorrow along with a new battery, and also new radiator hoses. I washed out my rusted head and about 2 minutes worth of rusty water came out of the lower radiator pipe haha. Oh how much fun these cars are.

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK, this thread is almost 7 years old, so what's the latest?

Is it running, and do you have pictures?

This is back from when some good guys were posting, that have since left this site.

[Bob C]

I think he sold it. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41241

Bob