clutch spring adjustment

[Gezer]

Looking at the VanPelts transmission instructions Paragraph 11 makes this statement; "Make sure the pressure plate fingers are adjusted properly" Anyone know how to do this and how to measure it?

[Terry,OH]

The three pressure plate fingers are set up by the pressure plate builder or re-builder and it would be unusual for any additional adjustment. Special indicators are used.

[edhd58]

On another post I have I was instructed to Bolt the pressure plate and clutch disc to the flywheel as it's going to be installed. Measure from the flywheel to the top of the fingers and make sure they all match that way they're all putting the same pressure on the pressure plate. Or at least that's my understanding

[Bruce Lancaster]

The different dimensions for the several different plates and procedures are in the Ford transmission rebuild book (roughly 1947 or so) that is reproduced and is available everywhere including from VanPelt.
If you don't track this down, at the very least lay a straightedge across the back of pressure plate ans see if distance to the contact pads on all 3 fingers is the same. There are some very sloppy repro PP's and quite possibly badly done rebuilds too.
Clutch setting is also in the circa '46 engine rebuild book but not in the '47-8 ones now available. Dimensions given are from the backside of the plate as installed to the contacts on fingers.

[Gezer]

In measuring them, they are about 3/32 to I/8 different. any one know if there is a definite dimension and can it be set with a wrench?

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by Gezer

In measuring them, they are about 3/32 to I/8 different. any one know if there is a definite dimension and can it be set with a wrench?

Okay, this is much more serious than many realize. The three fingers must be even with one another or the throw out bearing will not come in contact with all simultaneously and will hasten the failure of the bearing. Also, there IS a specification for these fingers. I can look it up later if desired. The specification requires the fingers be depressed. In other words, the plate must be bolted down.
From first hand experience, I can tell you many rebuilders pay little or no attention to this specification. I had purchased two remanufactured plates from NAPA a number of years ago only to find both were so far out of spec, neither would work. Unfortunately only after I'd removed the second one, did I learn of the finger height specification.
Can YOU adjust it? Well, yes, you can. Typically the three adjusting screws are staked in and once you force them loose to adjust, they will need to be re-staked or welded in place. If the plate has been properly rebuilt in the past, chances are the adjusting screws have already been welded.
The bottom line in my opinion? If you can't properly measure these "fingers" and then properly adjust them, I'd leave this to a professional. Fort Wayne Clutch is both reasonable and good at what they do.
And by the way, to do this properly requires more than a simple dial caliper. The specification is "tight" as I recall.

I wanted to add that Bruce L. provided good advice about the straight edge, etc. However, you need to realize that bolting the plate in place atop the disc is NOT accurate. It may very well "get you close". If "close" is good enough for you, go for it. As I recall, the plate was to be bolted down atop blocks ground accurately to .268"

[Bruce Lancaster]

And the dimensions differ between the several plate sizes, why the little book is a good thing to have. It is NOT a substitute for VanP's own VERY thorough transmission book, but it has what you need on the pressure plates.
The days of buying a new or rebuilt part at the store and bolting it in on the assumption that it is ready to roll are OVER!

Part #L-1002 $12.00

Basic manual for Ford 1932-47 passenger and truck transmissions and clutches.

[Gezer]

could out of spec clutch fingers cause Clutch chatter?

[Fordors]

Unfortunately many new PP's will have fingers that only have a machined surface and not the adjuster screws. The only way to adjust those is by shimming or machining the yoke that holds the finger to the assembly. Naturally that will require disassembling the PP so that is not an option. Bottom line, get components from a reliable rebuilder, as mentioned Fort Wayne Clutch in Fort Wayne, IN is good as is Surge Friction in South Holland, IL.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

And the dimensions differ between the several plate sizes, why the little book is a good thing to have. It is NOT a substitute for VanP's own VERY thorough transmission book, but it has what you need on the pressure plates.
The days of buying a new or rebuilt part at the store and bolting it in on the assumption that it is ready to roll are OVER!

Part #L-1002 $12.00

Basic manual for Ford 1932-47 passenger and truck transmissions and clutches.

Yep Bruce, I recall not fondly the day I installed and removed two clutch assemblies from a 40 coupe. Scratching my head thinking I had done something wrong not once, but twice - in a row. It had never before occurred to me that a pressure plate from NAPA could be poopy. And it would certainly not have occurred to me that two could be. However, that was exactly the issue.

Now I measure each and every plate I install, even the NOS plates. Simply too much work to install a poor plate.

[Bruce Lancaster]

I've heard from people buying new imported 9" plates with the entire housing stamping off shape in multiple ways, only installable by massive efforts with drift pins, long bolts, hammers, and drill-sergeant levels of bad language. And of course such an installation suggests an almost incomprehensible tangle of dimensional problems inside once bad manufacture is rearranged by brute force!
I would never buy a new one nowadays (except for actual NOS), a rebuilt should at least have a real foundation and the possibility of adjustment if needed.

[cas3]

a new disk i bought a while back was .345, not .375 like they are supposed to be new. so, new disk half wore out is what i got!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by cas3

a new disk i bought a while back was .345, not .375 like they are supposed to be new. so, new disk half wore out is what i got!

Well, maybe and maybe not. The dimension is of the linings prior to installing (wafering) over the internal springs. I have witnessed the .343 dices you describe and the linings were actually within spec.

[Bruce Lancaster]

35 or 40 years ago, I could wander through Joblot's back warehouse, pulling the best examples of what I needed out of mountains of NOS... Now...aaaargh.

[rotorwrench]

At least you have the memories Bruce. I know I never had it quite that good but I remember helping my Uncle out at his parts store when I was a kid. He always had a lot of flathead components from various rebuilders. There were a lot of them still working on the farms in those days. I bought the last set of Johnson adjustable tappets he had back in 1973.

[Gezer]

Thanks for all the input.
I ended up sending the disc and pressure plate to Ft Wayne clutch. I have it back and the disc has a new marcel and friction material. The pressure plate has correctly adjusted arms and a ground surface.
Planning to install soon and put engine back in the car.
I am hopeful that this solves the chatter issue. I will let you all know.
Thanks again, Gezer