1936 horn button light switch

[Blastfromthepast]

I want to replace my steering wheel light switch that is located on the steering wheel. The one thats there is cracked. Is it possible to remove the light switch from the light switch rod.

[Terry,OH]

The rod and the button are put together and flared over. I do not think the two pieces of metal are weldable, since the plastic button is formed over white metal. Best to replace the steel rod and button together as a unit.

[Blastfromthepast]

Thanks Terry for your response. 108 people viewed this post and your the only one
who gave advise. I appreciate your answer. That’s what a forum is for questions and answers. At least I didn’t get the find out for yourself or buy the V8 early Ford book. but that doesn’t have the knowledge of hands on experience. Thanks again for your knowledgeable answer.

[TJ]

I think you didn't get more answers because your original question was a little confusing. The actual "light switch" is attached to the bottom of the steering gear. That part is easily removed from the horn rod. People may have thought the bakelite plate inside the actual switch was cracked. Had you specified it was the horn button and outer ring that needed replacement you may have received more answers. Kudos to Terry

[Blastfromthepast]

Thanks for your rebuttal. I do see how it could be confusing.
Terry seem to follow me with the correct answer but I will try again.
There is a brown switch located on the steering wheel that when turnespd lights
The headlights. That brown double ear switch located on the steering wheel which houses the horn button needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how to
Replace just that piece from the horn rod. Can it be replace separately from that horn rod or is it one unit sold together. I hope I’m more clear. Thank you.

[koates]

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That brown plastic double ear thingy is not the headlight switch but only the actuating knob so to speak. The actual headlight switch is mounted on the bottom of the steering box and has to be removed by unclipping the wire bail from around the switch body and slide the switch downwards. The brown plastic actuator is part of the horn rod tube and not really able to be separated from it. It was supplied by Ford as a complete unit. To remove the horn rod tube assembly you then from the bottom push up against spring tension on the double eared part that turns the switch. While pushing up slide sideways the small U shaped retaining clip off the groove in the bottom of the horn rod. Three items will fall off in your hand, two eared actuator, U shaped clip, and the coil spring. The complete horn rod can then be slid upwards and out of the steering column tube. Depending on your cars body style the horn rod when slid upwards may hit the cars roof so you may have to unbolt the steering column support and ignition switch assembly from the lower edge of the dash panel (which is another story). Don't under any circumstances bend the horn rod or it will be finished. It has to be perfectly straight otherwise it will bind inside the steering tube and cause the headlight switch to operate when the steering wheel is turned. The best bet is to find another complete horn rod assembly which might be difficult. I started to type this a couple of days ago and gave up because there is a bit of explanation involved here and Im only a two finger typist so to speak. Its a tricky little job and a bit awkward working on the bottom switch so take your time.. Regards, Kevin. a

[Don Rogers]

Henry called it "Lighting Switch Handle & Horn Switch Assembly"

[OldGold360]

I know this is an older post, but does anybody know if someone is making this “Lighting Switch Handle & Horn Switch Assembly". I have seen steering wheels available but so far cannot find the horn button/light switch & rod assembly. I am also needing the actual switch that is attached to the bottom end of the rod. Thanks

[Brian]

The 'actual switch' you refer to is part of the headlight wiring loom...buy a loom, it will be part of it. [The contact plate] Several sources for that. It'll fit into the outer casings [two parts], which contain the rest of the switch, that then, as an assembly, fit into the bottom of the steering box.
The centre portion of steering wheel centre, with rod, you'll will have to find an original; not reproduced. is a very delicate item; rod, when removed from column, is easily bent. Even harder to find is the little brass shim that locates directly under that flat centre portion with the two lugs; it sits at the uppermost portion of the tube, it is there to improve the grounding of the horn circuit.

[OldGold360]

Thanks Brian. This is a huge help.

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by Brian

Even harder to find is the little brass shim that locates directly under that flat centre portion with the two lugs; it sits at the uppermost portion of the tube, it is there to improve the grounding of the horn circuit.

I have a 1937 light rod that does not seem to ground the circuit when the button is depressed. The column is out of the car, so the rod can easily be removed from the column. I have tried measuring the continuity between the little brass button on the bottom of the rod and the side of the rod and only get an open circuit. This is the first I have heard of this little brass shim. This missing piece may be why the circuit is not being completed. I will have to investigate this further, when it warms up outside.

[OldGold360]

If anybody has a 35-36 horn button and rod, I am in the market for one.

[Brian]

Zeke, you should only see continuity between the tube and the bottom contact when horn button is depressed

[cas3]

if you have a broken one here's a thread where i show how i fix em, or shorten em. starts at post 8. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-13378502

[koates]

Zeke3 The round brass shim washer is only available as a model A part and is available from BRATTONS. Regards, Kevin.

[Zeke3]

Kevin, is that the B-3529 silencer, steering gear tube?

[koates]

Zeke3, I could not find it on Brattons now but Snyders have it listed as a LIGHT SWITCH ROD BUSHING A-3529 for $2.25 ea. I could never find it as a 32-36 Ford part but A-3529 is the same because I have fitted them on my 34 Fords. Regards, Kevin.

[Zeke3]

Thanks Kevin for the information on the part number for the bushing, I will order it from Snyder's along with some fuel gauge floats to fix my fuel level sender.

Thanks Cas3 for the tutorial on working on the light rod. I think I will have to at least take the button apart to determine if the circuit is complete from the button to the rod end. I was afraid of damaging the ring that holds the button on when bending the tabs back.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Thanks Kevin for the information on the part number for the bushing, I will order it from Snyder's along with some fuel gauge floats to fix my fuel level sender.

Thanks Cas3 for the tutorial on working on the light rod. I think I will have to at least take the button apart to determine if the circuit is complete from the button to the rod end. I was afraid of damaging the ring that holds the button on when bending the tabs back.

Zeke, I'm afraid that you don't understand what has been posted about the horn circuit. The rod is not part of the circuit, and is only a conduit for the single wire going through it and up to the horn button. The horn button, when depressed, grounds to the steering shaft.

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Zeke, I'm afraid that you don't understand what has been posted about the horn circuit. The rod is not part of the circuit, and is only a conduit for the single wire going through it and up to the horn button. The horn button, when depressed, grounds to the steering shaft.

What I understand of the horn circuit is depressing the button makes a connection with the ground of the vehicle to complete the horn circuit. The ground wire from the horns is in the center of the switch plate, at the light switch, in contact with the bottom of the switch rod.

What I don't know is where the connection to chassis ground is made when the button is depressed. I thought the rod may be part of the path to ground, so I was looking for continuity between the connection at the end of the rod and the conduit when the button is depressed. Is the ground circuit actually through bushing at the top to the 78-3524 steering shaft and worm gear assembly?

I need to look further at the top of the rod, where the bushing is supposed to be, to see if there is anything there. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

[ford38v8]

The circuit is completed when the horn button is depressed, which grounds to the steering shaft. The horn rod is simply a conduit, not part of the circuit.

[cas3]

yes, the brass bushing on the top is really the best path to ground. once grounded to shaft many routes thru all the metal to metal contacts in the steering box will get it finally to the battery

[Zeke3]

Thanks Alan and cas3, I will check it further to see if I can get a complete circuit. This is a good cold weather project, something I can bring in the house to work on.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Thanks Alan and cas3, I will check it further to see if I can get a complete circuit. This is a good cold weather project, something I can bring in the house to work on.

??? My wife would get out the shotgun if I brought a complete steering box, shaft, and steering wheel into the house.

[Zeke3]

I would take it down to the basement to work on it, not the dining room table.😊

[Don Rogers]

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What's wrong with the dining room table???

[Zeke3]

Don, you are going to get me in trouble. Your car parts look much cleaner than mine, and in better shape.

I think I may have to take the button apart to see what is going on under there because I still am unable to measure continuity when the button is depressed. Continuity from the terminal at the bottom of the tube to the collar that is at the top of the tube is what I was measuring.