Does anyone make/supply points that fit?

[katy]

Kind of a long story, I replaced the distributor cam with an A-12210 part w/a B grind. Yes, I put grease on the new cam. The package says it’s from Snyder’s. Within about 100 miles the point rubbing block wore down, I reset the point gap and within about 20 miles the rubbing block wore down again. So I replaced the points (Snyder’s P/N A-12199), but they don’t line up. See attached pic.

Because the old points (that fit) were still in good shape I made a new rubbing block for them. Attached pic shows them before they were finished, the machine screw heads had to be filed down a lot as well as the rubbing block itself.
At this point I checked the replacement cam and found the surface to be quite rough. I got another B profile cam from Bratton’s and the surface on it is nice and smooth.
The new cam and “rebuilt” points (w/lubricant) have been installed but I haven’t had a chance to run it yet.

[stewwolfe]

I hate to say it, but I have found a number of point arms that hit the point block like that.

[RawhideKid]

If you will remove the upper plate again, looking at the bottom you will notice 2 screws in the point block. Loosen these and you will be able to move the point block around to get a better alignment.

[lindy williams]

You have a non-movable point block that is made onto the upper plate. Get a new upper plate and point block. This will allow you to move the point block to align the points, however I have had to file the point block mounting holes a little for perfect alignment.

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

It was very common years ago for uninformed Model A owners .... and/or even any professional mechanic .... (who did not have a distributor cam wrench) .... to grab and secure the distributor cam with a pair of sharp pliers while tightening the top cam screw.

The pliers would sometimes very slightly mar the cam by raising almost unnoticeable very tiny metal cam surfaces .......... thus causing more rapid point block wear.

And yes ..... sometimes after ruining a cam, some rat fink Model A owners have been known to return ruined distributor cams for a refund ....... and yes, some Model A parts people sometimes assumed that all Model A owners were honest.

And yes again, sometimes ruined cams were unintentionally mailed to Model A owners.

Never a bad idea for Model A owners to check what we think are new, unused parts, prior to installing same ...... same with anything re-stocked by Wal-Mart, Amazon, Ebay, NAPA, etc., etc.

[Patrick L.]

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The cam in the pic looks bad. Good that you replaced it. I too have had to file [ 'adjust'] the mounting hole. It takes a bit of time to get it right so the block can't move afterward.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

IS YOUR POINT ARM PIVOT POST LOOSE & WOBBLY???
NOBODY ever comments about this??????----"Am I jist talkin' to the WIND"????
Bill Tightpost

[P.S.]

That distributor cam doesn't exactly look like a Model B grind in the photo.

Either way, it is clear that the rubbing surface needs to be polished.

I have posted about this several times-
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...69&#post664069

That same distributor cam has almost 10,000 miles on it now, and the points are still at .020 gap. cannot see any wear on the rubbing block at all.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by P.S.

That distributor cam doesn't exactly look like a Model B grind in the photo.

Either way, it is clear that the rubbing surface needs to be polished.

I have posted about this several times-
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...69&#post664069

That same distributor cam has almost 10,000 miles on it now, and the points are still at .020 gap. cannot see any wear on the rubbing block at all.

A/B Cam

[Tom Endy]

My view:

from the photos the cam looks pretty bad and I can see where if would grind the rubbing block on the points down is short order. best to replace the cam with a new one.

Your upper distributor plate is an early version that has the stationary point contact fixed in one place. The later upper plates had a provision to adjust the stationary point. There are two screws underneath that enable adjustment and to be able lock it in place. Best to change out your top plate for the later version. Make the adjustment with the points closed.

The rubbing block on most new points will wear quite a bit during the first 100 miles or so after installation. If you set the gap at .020 they will likely close up to .010. After they are re-set back to .020 the wear factor will decrease, Best to check and re-set each time the oil is change. You will know when the points are closing up as the timing will change. You will have to keep pushing the spark advance handle up more to stop the engine from pinging. Once the gap is reset the timing is restored. This is why it is important to set the point gap before setting the timing. Be sure to coat the cam with cam lube at each oil change

Tom Endy

[john in illinois]

I know this is not a popular solution. I use Accel USA "modern" points and condenser on a Stipe B cam. Have driven thousands of miles and just lube cam.

John

[MrBruce]

I have used modern points for over 25 years until lately when someone in our club showed me new points he picked up. They are made and sold by "Standard" and it looks like they have corrected the wear block which was so poor. I am building a number of distributors with the new points number "FD1718" and I believe he got them at NAPA. also under the number "A123" BWD Automotive, Long Island City, NY. Haven't had a problem with fit, but sure have a nice wear block on them.

[Kevin in NJ]

It is a fallicy that the V8 points are better.

Truth is a couple of years ago I took apart like 10 distributers and found only 2 had bad points and that was because they were low quality parts. I would use any of the point I took off. Some were Ford script others were standard. They all had clean nice point blocks and the wear block was very good.
The only reason I am not going to put used points on my car is because I also have 2 NOS Ford sets.

As for the new points and condensers, well those parts are being low bid overseas these days. Reading the Mustang post I see people have troubles with hit or miss quality on them. No matter which points you decide to use, get the A&L burn out proof condenser.

When evaluating upper plates you need to look at the lateral play of the plate. This can affect your point gap. The center bushing is what keep the plate centered on the dist shaft. They wear at the small area where they run at. I measure various dist bushing plays and got up to .008" using a NOS Ford upper plate. I am using the one with .001" of play.
If you do not have a NOS upper plate, no worries. Peen the edge a bit to make it tighter. Do some minor hits a bit from the edge with a ball peen hammer.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

A/B Cam

Thank you for sharing that. I am aware of what a stock A and a B distributor cam looks like. Look at the original post photo. That does not look like either a stock A or a newish B distributor cam. It looks like something in between. That is the point I was trying to make.

[john in illinois]

Kevin please check post 11. This is what I was referring to.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...view/make/ford

John

[katy]

P.S., you said "Either way, it is clear that the rubbing surface needs to be polished."

Can you tell how to do this? Or point us to a web page that shows it?
Thanks, Ken

[katy]

IS YOUR POINT ARM PIVOT POST LOOSE & WOBBLY???

No, it's not loose or wobbly, but thanks for the reminder to check it.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Humble opinion from past experiences:

If you get:

1. A new cam; and,

2. New points, both from someone reputable like Bratton's; and,

3. Keep the cam lubed; and,

4. "If" you clean the contacts when needed "only" with the special NAPA "fine" point file designed to file and clean points; then,

5. Your point block and points should be good for at least 75,000 miles.

Why wait? Just do it once, be finished, and begin driving with 100% confidence.

[2manycars]

Your upper plate is the one piece forged plate used in early 28. Later plates have a point block that is adjustable from the underside of the plate. This adjustment can be made with the plate in your hand before you install it.

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by katy

P.S., you said "Either way, it is clear that the rubbing surface needs to be polished."

Can you tell how to do this? Or point us to a web page that shows it?
Thanks, Ken

I use an old distributor shaft in a jig (you could also clamp in a vice) and use a Dremel with a polishing wheel and some polish. When polishing a B distributor cam, be careful not to round off the edges of the lobe ridges. When finished, mount in a distributor and measure the points gap on all 4 lobes. If the lobes are not within .001" of each other, then, and only then- polish the ridge of the high lobe to get them all the same.

Of all the distributors I have rebuilt for club members, only 1 has ever needed the lobes of the B cam 'adjusted'.