New fsi distributor timing problem

[bnchief]

I have a rebuilt motor short block it had the oil filter valve cover on it when i got it back. I am ready to time the distributor to the motor i have it at tdc using the timing pin the shaft is in the slot but the rotor is 180 degrees opposite of number 1. Is the cam distributor drive half off i know everything else is correct. The books do not mention this at all.

[Zener424]

It sounds like you are not really at TDC. Remove spark plug #1 and rotate the engine till the #1 piston is seen at the top of the cylinder AND the timing pin falls in the dimple of the timing gear. At this point your rotor should be in the range of the #1 position of the cap. Then you can continue timing per the instructions.

[Big hammer]

If you have it on #1 compression, timing pin in the detent, just loosen the points cam and with you rotor turn it to #1

[Marshall V. Daut]

Along the lines of what "Zener424" suggests, a quick way to see if the rotor is far off is to remove #1 spark plug, take off the distributor's top cap w/coil wire so that you can observe the rotor as it turns, stand on the passenger's side, and hold your right thumb over the open spark plug hole. Leave the plastic distributor body in place. Reach across the top of the engine with your left arm and push down on the start rod with your left hand. Be sure the ignition key is OFF to avoid unwanted spark arcing and the transmission is neutral! As the engine spins and the rotor's brass tang approaches #1 on the plastic distributor body (at the 4:00 O'clock position), the cylinder pressure should push your thumb off the spark plug hole. That's TDC. If it doesn't force your thumb off with a "whoosh!" at this position, but instead at the 10:00 O'clock position, that means the rotor is set 180 degree's opposite. This quick test will tell you if you are in the ballpark for initial ignition timing setting.
If the rotor is close to #1 at TDC using this test, you can fine tune the rotor's setting using the timing pin and hand crank. Put the spark lever all the way up, remove the timing pin, reverse it and put it back into the hole, and while putting inward pressure on the pin, slowly hand crank the engine until you feel the pin drop into the fiber timing gear's detent hole. It's subtle, so don't expect a big drop. You'll be prepared for this position because the rotor's tang will be approaching the #1 terminal inside the distributor body. (The rotor will turn counter-clockwise) Once the pin drops in, stop hand cranking and reverse the pin, tightening it. Remove the rotor, loosen the distributor's cam set screw, and replace the rotor. Position the rotor's tang by rotating the rotor so that its TRAILING edge is just past the #1 terminal of the distributor body. This is the correct initial setting. Remove the rotor and tighten the set screw. Put everything back together again and start the engine. You can tweak the timing from here for your needs: either a slow idle and less power by retarding the initial timing, or for more power, but a less smooth idle by slightly advance the initial setting.
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

Adapt what I wrote above to your FSI distributor. I assume it has a modern cap instead of the "winged" original design?
Marshall

[Dave in MN]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Do you have a centrifical advance FSI? See photos below. If so, you can not change the rotor position when at TDC on number 1 cylinder other than reclocking the oil pump drive gear to the camshaft gear.

Regardless if you do or don't reclock the oil pump drive gear, you will need to place the wire for number one cylinder in the distributor body to match the rotor position at #1 TDC. The remaining wires are then placed counterclockwise remembering the firing order is 1243. To set the timing, loosen the distributor locknut and screw located at the side of the head and then rotate the distributor to set the timing.

If you have centrifical advance, I advise using a timing light to verify the advance at 2200 rpm. To much advance will be the death of your bearings. I have replaced the main bearings in two engines this year because the owners did not verify the advance at road speed on centrifical advance equipment.

If the distributor shown below is what you are using and you have more questions, ask and I will reply.

[oldwoodsman]

I'm not familiar with a FSI distributor, but just thinking ---------- if number one piston is at tdc can you plug the number one plug wire into the terminal on the cap that the rotor is pointing to and change the remaining wires accordingly ?

[wmws]

As Marshall said, "Position the rotor's tang by rotating the rotor so that its TRAILING edge is just past the #1 terminal of the distributor body."

I would only add to rotate to rotor clockwise to take the backlash out of the system.

[J Franklin]

Woodsman, don't complicate things. He needs to time it correctly so when he has a problem on the road we can still try to get him going.

[PC/SR]

Woodsman: Yes you can do that and I have done it rather than changing the drive gear positioning. Easy to do. Just get the wires counterclockwise, 1243 per Dave #6 from the new #1 position. Do not make this more complicated than it has to be.

[oldwoodsman]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Woodsman, don't complicate things. He needs to time it correctly so when he has a problem on the road we can still try to get him going.

Originally Posted by PC/SR

Woodsman: Yes you can do that and I have done it rather than changing the drive gear positioning. Easy to do. Just get the wires counterclockwise, 1243 per Dave #6 from the new #1 position. Do not make this more complicated than it has to be.

Sorry guys didn't mean to complicate this

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Sorry guys didn't mean to complicate this

oldwoodsman ...You had it right as well as PC/SR. Most of the guys were thinking of a conventional distributor body where it is necessary to have the rotor at 4:00 position.

Unfortunately, on the road repair or adjustment is not simple with this distributor without carrying a timing light.

Even with my experience installing these distributors, I almost always need to retard the timing when I check my initial setting with a timing light at 2200 rpm.

Warning: It is necessary check the timing at full advance which will be before 2200 rpm with a unmodified FSI distributor to avoid excessive advance.

[oldwoodsman]

[QUOTE=Dave in MN;1373844]oldwoodsman ...You had it right as well as PC/SR. Most of the guys were thinking of a conventional distributor body where it is necessary to have the rotor at 4:00 position.

Thanks Dave

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Sorry guys didn't mean to complicate this

Sounds to me that using this distributor already complicated it enough...

[bnchief]

This distributor is no different than any other distributor still times to number one since the tang is offset i have to believe the cam drive gear is 180 degrees out I know engine is at tdc on compression stroke and timing pin is in . This engine is still on the stand so will check out the cam drive but the books say nothing about this cam drive gear at all. Let you know what I find. By the way dave good advice will do,

[bnchief]

The problem is solved I took the screw out of the dist cam it has an o-ring under it so you can position it where it needs to be read the directions will read again maybe I missed something but at least i do not have to reposition the can drive gear.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by bnchief

The problem is solved I took the screw out of the dist cam it has an o-ring under it so you can position it where it needs to be read the directions will read again maybe I missed something but at least i do not have to reposition the can drive gear.

See post #3

[bnchief]

amen bob