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01-25-2015, 09:21 PM | #1 |
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Different Rear Drums
Ended up replacing the right rear drum on my 1929 Sport Coupe. I have attached pictures of both the driver's side "original" and the new passenger's side replacement drum (Bratton's).
The new Drum on the right side has a gap that I didn't expect but the car does not seem to know the difference in the drums. Maybe it's just me but the new drum on the right just doesn't look right. Your thoughts? Sorry for the poor artistic arrows. I am art stupid.
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John from Kapowsin T&A Guy |
01-25-2015, 09:34 PM | #2 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
The new drums are cast iron, cast to the manufacturers specs. the original drums were steel and made to Ford specs. Other than stopping coefficient of the dissimilar metals drive it and have fun. I wonder what one wheel fade would feel like?
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01-25-2015, 09:42 PM | #3 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Yes they are different.
You don't tell us your arrangement with Bratton. They have different options including buying new hub, drum outright all ready to go. Or you can give them your used hubs and let them put on new drums and finish up the work. Or was it some other arrangement? I'm suspicious that Bratton has screwed up. You need to call Walt (or someone) and tell them your hub is fully seated on your shaft but its not matching up to the backing plate - and you didn't have this problem before with your old hub and have changed nothing else. Since your hub is not fully seated, one might expect that the hub grease seal (the large one that retains the axle rollers and provides seal against the trumpet race) is not lined up with the grease catcher on the backing plate. This could be a big minus when you get grease on your brake pads and new drum. Heh. Somewhere else I commented on the technical challenge of installing new drums by one's self. I got one answer that it is difficult at best and work probably best left to "experts." Well, here you see the difficulty in getting experts to do it right. Not that Bratton will not make it right. I'm sure they will. Talk to Walt. I expect he'll straighten this out at no cost to you. You also don't say if you're running a pressed steel (original) drum on one side and the new Bratton cast iron on the other. Best would be to have them "equal" from right to left with identical material on both sides. Best of all is to have all four wheels the same too. But this is not related to the above issue and more related to equalizing braking (and fade) between all four wheels. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 01-25-2015 at 09:53 PM. |
01-25-2015, 09:45 PM | #4 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I'm just a regular customer who ordered a drum not knowing there was anything "special" required. Apparently this is not a simple "remove and replace"?
That is what I did.
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John from Kapowsin T&A Guy |
01-25-2015, 09:49 PM | #5 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
They need to be swedged on with new lug studs. Not hard to do with a 30 ton press and proper fixtures. Local machine shop did mine. No problems. Rod
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01-25-2015, 10:14 PM | #6 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
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If he got loose drums in the mail and found a way to get the old one off and the new one on it may not be right. (Heh, it most certainly is NOT right.) If he sent everything to Bratton and they sent it back as this - then it isn't right either. We need to know more. Joe K
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01-25-2015, 10:14 PM | #7 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
How much is the gap cause I don't see anything wrong in the photo, just different drums. cast iron.
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01-25-2015, 10:33 PM | #8 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
You should also replace the left drum, so you have a matching pair of cast iron drums.
You want EVEN braking on each side. |
01-26-2015, 11:18 AM | #9 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I may be using the wrong terminology here. This is what I purchased from Bratton's.
http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mo...-assembly.html The link is from Mac's but I gave up trying to find it on Bratton's site although I am sure that is where I purchased it. I did take it to a machine shop locally to have the ID turned so it would fit the shoes but other that that I simply installed it.
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John from Kapowsin T&A Guy |
01-26-2015, 11:27 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Quote:
Charlie Stephens |
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01-26-2015, 11:48 AM | #11 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
You should do as Tom suggests and replace the other side also and take Charlie's advice and check the Center and the Diameter/Arc.
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01-26-2015, 12:12 PM | #12 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Joe K,
You are right... it SHOULD be left to the experts. It just seemed cost prohibitive but I guess when you figure in loss of life or limb it would be quite inexpensive. I should see one of the club members and find out who the local expert is.
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John from Kapowsin T&A Guy |
01-26-2015, 12:40 PM | #13 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Well, by buying the hub with the drum attached (and swaged and turned) you did the best you could. Others have mentioned the brake issues - and they are correct. You're starting with a brandy spanking new drum ID - which will be small compared to your worn drum and requires a rework of the brake shoe contact.
Still, what you did with Bratton SHOULD be all you need to do. Those things should go on without fuss and it should just about meet your backing plate with a skosh of room left over to turn the hub/drum without hitting. This did not happen which indicates to me that Bratton (or somebody) made the taper in the hub the wrong "depth" and they need to machine it a bit to make it fit. I would still talk to Bratton. Too bad you touched up the ID - Walt may be reluctant to take them in exchange now but may offer solution to the "depth" problem and return the drum to you directly. Or you might find a local machine shop to redepth the taper. This is old time machine work and very few shops that can do this are still around. Machine work and the people talented in doing it are quickly becoming a lost art in our "post consumer" world. And I'll assume you're not using axle shims before or now as you likely not need them with the new drum assembly. And yes PLEASE put cast iron AT LEAST on both sides of the rear. You need a balanced aspect in braking otherwise you may throw your car into a skid/spin. This may be your negotiating chip with Bratton. More sale for Bratton if Bratton help me get past my issue. I am as yet undecided how I wish to make the transfer to cast iron drums. I'm a kind of an artful dodger when it comes to things mechanical. As my wife says I'm good at spending a dollar to save 25 cents. But cast iron drums ARE the way to go - once you do this your practical limitation on braking becomes skidding the narrow tires on the road instead of brake fade. But experts are experts - and they normally do it best - that's why they're experts. But they do make mistakes. Anyway, good luck. Love your dog. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 01-26-2015 at 12:47 PM. |
01-26-2015, 01:49 PM | #14 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I never arc my brake shoes and still have excellent brakes. The shoes were allowed to wear in. Takes a little time but I still had good brakes from day one. I don't like to see new material being ground off by the arcing process.
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01-26-2015, 02:09 PM | #15 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I do the same and for the same reason. Years ago when I worked at the dealership I used to arc the shoes, but haven't done it since then.
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01-26-2015, 02:38 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Quote:
I never arc them. The drum will do it. My coupe has 20,000 miles on the brakes . It will slide all 4 wheels. |
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01-26-2015, 02:49 PM | #17 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I guess I'll ask a different way as I can not see a problem with your new drum fit. Did the axle nut go on the same distance where you could get the cotter key in ok????. I ask because I can not see an air-gap, just the indent of the cast drum.
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01-26-2015, 03:03 PM | #18 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Maybe need to get some better pictures so people can stop guessing as to what your problem is if it is a problem. Maybe get a little more light on the drums in taking the pictures and show how they are mating to the backing plate.
Also the question of whether you purchased one drum or more when you made your purchase. If just one, then it would be good advise to at least get a matched set on two wheels.
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01-26-2015, 03:42 PM | #19 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
Times three !!! As for the drums pictured above, I believe that this is normal for the cast iron trums. Cast iron drums ton't have a rolled edge like the original steel drums . As many people that always recommend cast iron drums, I surprised that they haven't noticed this and spoken up .
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01-26-2015, 04:16 PM | #20 |
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Re: Different Rear Drums
I was wondering if that were not normal for cast iron drums but having never used any, I also figured someone with experience would have said so. I also have never arced my shoes.
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