Radius rod ball

[Russell Reay]

I just discovered that my RR ball is not 1.5" in diam, but 1.45" top to bottom and 1.48" side to side. Most surprising (to me) is that I can feel a ridge around the 'belt' of the ball--look at a picture of a sleigh bell. This ridge is most noticeable at the front, almost non-existent at the back. Upon removal there were no springs and spacers on the ball socket, but there was a rubber ball. The notch in the bottom half of the ball socket was shiny, indicating some contact wear from the 'neck' of the steel ball. After reading many posts about this assembly (rubber ball vs not), I am inclined to buy a steel ball washer and original style ball cap kit. From my description, is this a reasonable move ?

[chrs1961815]

I like to fix them once so I would weld it up and file it down. But the washers and the rubber work as a temporary bandaid fix.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Russell Reay

I just discovered that my RR ball is not 1.5" in diam, but 1.45" top to bottom and 1.48" side to side. Most surprising (to me) is that I can feel a ridge around the 'belt' of the ball--look at a picture of a sleigh bell. This ridge is most noticeable at the front, almost non-existent at the back. Upon removal there were no springs and spacers on the ball socket, but there was a rubber ball. The notch in the bottom half of the ball socket was shiny, indicating some contact wear from the 'neck' of the steel ball. After reading many posts about this assembly (rubber ball vs not), I am inclined to buy a steel ball washer and original style ball cap kit. From my description, is this a reasonable move ?

The factory print called for a machined spec of 1.498"-1.500".

I am more inclined to believe that 0.050" (-25 thousandths per side) is not a huge issue. Can it be better, ...yes. The biggest issue with using the washer is your present ball is not perfectly round, and so when there is twist of the radius rod (wishbone) with a washer, it can actually cause binding that I have seen break the cast clutch housing. Since you have it that far apart, add a few weld passes for filler and use a flat bastard file to re-shape. The best way to check these is to machine a piece of tubing to 1.500" ID, and use it as a gage to check for high spots on the welded areas. If it binds in an area, file it more until it just slips over the ball in different directions.

[Russell Reay]

My welding and machining skills are such that I would need to do this on a bench, not on the car. Les' instructions entail complete disassembly of the front suspension and brakes. Could I just relieve the weight from the front spring, remove the brake actuating arms, and drive (gently) the spring perches up thru the axle?

[Brentwood Bob]

Perches are difficult to remove.
They rust in place.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by Russell Reay

My welding and machining skills are such that I would need to do this on a bench, not on the car. Les' instructions entail complete disassembly of the front suspension and brakes. Could I just relieve the weight from the front spring, remove the brake actuating arms, and drive (gently) the spring perches up thru the axle?

If the axle assembly is out from underneath the frame, the axle assembly can be rotated 180° where the spring is now downward and the bottom side of the worn ball is facing upward. Doesn't this help you??

[Russell Reay]

I just tightened the bolts on the U-joint housing after installing the engine back into the straightened frame. Radius rod is a project for another day