Fan blade too close to radiator

[John Spragg]

Can anyone help ? My 1930 coupe I imported from the USA required some minor engine work and on putting it all back I am trying to line up the hood to be a good fit with the cowl. I have taken the shims out from under the cowl to reset and replaced the aftermarket 4 blade fan which was very close to the radiator with a 6 six blade plastic fan which bolts to an aluminum cast centre. Still too close and touches the radiator. Do I purchase a new steel hub? It appears that the blades need to be about 1/2" closer to the pulley the propeller shaft is very close but acceptable, I would like this further from the radiator as well. Can something be done here? Pulling my hair out and not much left. Any Ideas? Almost forgot to say I am in Australia yep down under folks.

[dave in australia]

What sort of engine mounts do you have? OEM style or FAM's? Either could have worn parts and rubber allowing the engine to sit down/forward. Does the pump pulley line up with the crank pulley? Do you have photo's you can post? What part of Australia do you live in?

[Tim]

I have had this problem, it might have been different from yours but here is what my problem was. The radiator was in at the bottom and I plumbed up the top off this location. The hood fit just fine. But I needed to kick the bottom out a little and lengthen the top rod section. Not buy making the rod longer but by moving the pinch nuts further towards the end. I was able to gain that oh so precious 1/4" that way. I run a four blade fan and have a good deal of room now. That front end sheetmetal is tough.



Tim

[Brentwood Bob]

removing the shims from under the cowl seems to be the critical change that precipitated the clearance issue with the fan. I measured the distance from the base of the cowl to the base of the radiator then did the same at the side hinge point then tried to kick the radiator out enough to even up the hood. By the way, stick a piece of cardboard (paper shipping carton) between the radiator fins and the fan, that way you eliminate potential damage to the radiator fins, or the knuckles. Bob

[John Spragg]

Thanks for your replies . The pulleys all line up, the front and rear mounts are FAM's front is new. The blade pulley is an aftermarket by Cal, Ford parts. protudes the blades to 3cm or 1/3.16 from front edge of pulley, if I could machine the face by 10mm or 3/8" this would help. Are the steel machined hub pulleys closer to the fan? Or could they be machined to take the fan blades closer? If I kick the radiator in at the bottom then I have a gap at the bottom at the cowl . Maybe I run it without a hood. I think this has beaten me . I am ready to capitulate.

[John Spragg]

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Thanks Dave Iam in Melbourne, Dingley village. Wanna buy a coupe?

[MARKA]

Hi John,
I am sorry it didnt work out .

Speak to you soon
Regards Mark.
(Braeside)

[John Spragg]

Bob, I will try to put some shims back under the cowl, any advice on the best way to lift the cowl. I was hoping to fit the radiator with a good space with the fan before fitting the radiator shell and lining up the all the gaps on the hood.

[dave in australia]

Another thought, I've never seen or heard about it happening, but, if the radiator is a recore, or aftermarket item, maybe the frame sides are sitting in the wrong position. You're not far from me John, I'm in east Gippsland. Sorry, don't want to buy another A, I've got four already.

[GOW]

as far as gap's and perfect lines etc. you've got to live with what you can get. i understand wanting everything to look perfect and line up with 3/16 gaps....but the cars didn't leave the factory with perfect fit and finish......do what u can....drive it and enjoy it......

[1931 flamingo]

G'day mateis that how you say it?) Just wondering why the 6 blade fan? Most (all) A's with a clean block and radiator run all right with original 2 blade fan, have you one to try to ck clearances?
Paul in CT

[John Spragg]

Thanks guys, you have given me some hope. I will have a go at it again and keep you in the loop. I was thinking about this again last night as you do and I maybe aiming for perfection or something too high, it really is a nice coupe apart from this glich at present. Gotta get it going now.

[Fred K-OR]

John, could it be that you have a bent frame where the rear motor mounts attach to the frame? Quite often, the frame sags at the motor mounts because of the weight of the motor on the frame over the years. Did you straighten the frame somewhere along the way?

Having a bent frame, like I tried to describe, will not allow you to get your hood on and not have any gaps anywhere. You can get the frame straightened at most auto body shops.

I have an oversize radiator (thicker) so my fan shaft sits only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the radiator. So far no problem. Don't know if this is your concern (fan shaft to close to radiator) or not so just thought I would mention my situation.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

John, could it be that you have a bent frame where the rear motor mounts attach to the frame? Quite often, the frame sags at the motor mounts because of the weight of the motor on the frame over the years. Did you straighten the frame somewhere along the way?

.

Bent frame was my thought as well.

[John Spragg]

Thanks Fred, I will put back the old 4 blade fan that was on it when I imported it then shim the cowl and see if I have that radiator space then try to align the hood if this does not work then it must be the bent frame which I was hoping not to be the case. A real big job to straighten the frame, a body off frame job which would take me months to achieve. I hope it is not the problem. What is the easiest way to lift the cowl to shim it and align the hood ?

[Fred K-OR]

John, I am not sure if you would need a body off to straighten the frame. You may find a good auto shop and see what they say. When I had mine straightened, I did have everything off the frame except the motor and axles. But the say they did it, I would think you could have the body on and still get it done.

I don't know what the easiest way to shim the cowl would be but it would seem like if you took the bolts loose that held the cowl down to the frame, you could somehow get some shims under it. Like I said, I do not know for sure so maybe someone else may have a better answer. Good luck.

[Larry Seemann]

Try this: http://www.icehouse.net/overland/framestraight.jpg
it's easier than you think

[spike]

I would say you have a sagging frame also....try re- shiming the body with two shims on every thing and three in the front and go from there. You should have plenty of room for the fan...let us know how you come out thanks and good luck

[John Spragg]

Thanks again guys, seems I have some direction now.

[Kirby1374]

I guess I don't get it but how does raising the cowl move the engine back or move the radiator forward?......

[John Spragg]

They say that the that the firewall hood welting frame holder must be perpendicular to the fender apron on a 30-31 and if not the shims may help to achieve the right angle required ( 90 degrees) then the radiator shell must be the same with a distance of 31-3/8''from the base of the cowl band to hood shell edge on both sides. And the distance from the edge of the cowl hood retainer hinge to the edge of the radiator shell hinge retainer should be 29-1/2''. If this all lines up then I am supposed to have the hood gaps correct and the fan to radiator space necessary. Phew! Maybe miracles do happen. The thought of lifting the cowl is daunting , say it has 8 gallons (imp ) in the tank there is 80 lbs to start with plus the front body weight. Is a 3 foot pry bar the best method over the fender apron with a block of wood under it? I may need help here, eh. ( ''Think I can see kangaroo up ahead '' - Peter Allen, I Still call Australia home)

[Brentwood Bob]

Careful prying on the fender apron, or on the splash apron. Get some help to slip a wood block in between the splash apron and the subrail of the body. Frankly the hard part is getting the wood block placed correctly to avoid damage. This is where a second pair of hands is helpful. Bob

[Brentwood Bob]

I forgot to mention that the body bolts can be uncooperative, This can be a difficult job loosening and then removing the bolts. Do one side at a time I think. Bob