The Ford Barn

Fairlane500 · 01-04-2011, 04:11 PM

Not sure if the intro thing is as common here as the Hamb but anyway, My name is John and I'm a Ford-o-holic, I have a 36 Ford and a 57 Ford with Flathead and Y block power plants, I use the same handle on the Hamb and came to the Ford Barn to seek knowledge for my first flathead rebuild. Seems theres a wealth of knowledge here and I recognize a few from the Y Blocks forever site also.(great guys over there)

So I picked up a real nice bare 69A block, crank and a set of 8BA rods and pistons, a set of alloy Canadian C7RA heads, then I purchased a Isky Max 1 8BA cam to run a 8BA distributor and a new set of hollow adjustables, an 8BA valve train all from Red's, a pair of new truck 8BA water pumps, HV oil pump, best gasket kit, and a new Stromberg 97 locally, So I still have a few items to collect to get a complete engine as this thing was all just parts, but its off to the machine shop next week to get bored, valves etc and I should get her back as a short block. In the meantime I need to find a oil pan, flywheel, intake etc locally whilst the machine work is being done, cant wait to get it in the 36. She currently has a Ford Pilot 21 stud V8 and the only thing it passes is oil past the rings, been a good soldier all the same.

Keep you posted.

Jack E/NJ · 01-04-2011, 04:20 PM

Welcome, John! While you're waiting for the block and parts, what about re-doing the 21 studder? 8^)

Jack E/NJ

ken ct · 01-04-2011, 05:04 PM

John,welcome to the barn. Your 97 will not work with a 8BA dizzy,[no vacume connection] You must use a 8BA # ford-holley.You cannot use manifold vacume either. You must use the port on the rear of the 8BA carb. ken ct usa

Fairlane500 · 01-04-2011, 05:17 PM

Thanks Ken, I havent sorted a distributor yet and have not ruled out any options, I see a few here and the HAMB running Bubbas Chev modification (contact or petronix), MSD or Mallory unilite, Not sure which direction I will go yet!!! See what other info turns up here. Regards

Mart · 01-04-2011, 05:30 PM

Hi.
Welcome to the Barn. (From a relative newcomer)
As you're mixing and matching parts, you could (if you are stuck) use the sump, flywheel and starter off your 21stud. You need to keep them together as a matched set, as the starter and ring gear teeth are different, and the mounting of the starter to the sump is different.
But as a set, they would fit your 59A block and crank.

Mart.

Fairlane500 · 01-04-2011, 05:36 PM

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Thanks Mart,

As a last resort I would do that, this 21 stud I have has a 11 inch clutch and flywheel pattern only, I want to run a 9 inch set up as this 21 stud is lazy as with the 11 inch, I would also like to keep using the car till the engines done,, and I would like to run it up and get confident with tune etc before installing. Good info though thanks, regards.

Walt Dupont--Me. · 01-04-2011, 09:02 PM

Fairlane500. Make sure the machine shop that is building your short block puts the main line oil plug in behind the cam gear. Alot of people leave that out and no oil pressure. There is also one in the rear of the block. You really don't need a HV oil pump in a street engine with stock oil clearances. To much oil pressure is not good. A standard M-19 oil pump with a truck pickup tube will work fine in your 59 engine. Walt

Fairlane500 · 01-04-2011, 09:50 PM

Thanks for the advice Walt appreciated. Regards.

JM 35 Sedan · 01-05-2011, 09:40 AM

Welcome to the new Fordbarn. It's always nice to have newbies to help. Listen to the engine gurus who post here for some good advice. One thing I thought about when you mention running an 8BA distributor is that you must also use an 8ba timing gear and crank gear to get correct rotation. You probably already knew this but thought I would mention anyway. Also, don't forget that that little 21 studder can be built up to run with the bigger dogs as well.

Good luck!

Craig CT · 01-05-2011, 09:47 AM

Hi Fairlane500; I wouldn't run a high volume oil pump for the engine you're building. Good luck, and welcome, Craig.

Fairlane500 · 01-05-2011, 03:39 PM

Thanks for the feedback and comments guys appreciate it, with the HV oil pump what is the main concerns there??? Delaminating bearings from too higher oil pressure???? I was of the understanding that HV oil pumps were quite commonly used???? is this not the case????, please I appreciate everyones comments as I learn here. I believe the pump pictured below I purchased from So-Cal Speed Shop is the same as what is used on the French Flatheads. Regards

danliveshere · 01-05-2011, 05:09 PM

I too am interested to learn about the high volume pump as I bought one for my 35 block. What's the issues regarding this as I require a long term reliable motor as the car is being built as a wedding car.

Fairlane500 · 01-05-2011, 08:33 PM

Walt, Question for you what is this pump i have bought called a M?? Will it be o.k.? Is it even a HV pump??? Appreciate any info from anyone on this pump pictured above, Regards

swoopNZ · 01-05-2011, 08:36 PM

Try Horopito for a sump.
They still have plenty of flatheads lying around.
Chris.NZ.
06 755 0818

Craig CT · 01-05-2011, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairlane500

Walt, Question for you what is this pump i have bought called a M?? Will it be o.k.? Is it even a HV pump??? Appreciate any info from anyone on this pump pictured above, Regards

Hi Fairlane500; I believe Melling M 19 is the later 8BA 60lb pump, Craig.

52merc · 01-06-2011, 01:42 AM

good to see another kiwi spreading there wings trev

Fairlane500 · 01-06-2011, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swoopNZ

Try Horopito for a sump.
They still have plenty of flatheads lying around.
Chris.NZ.
06 755 0818

Thanks and I will tomorrow. Cheers

52merc · 01-06-2011, 02:04 PM

what part of nz are you in ?? spyder caps are available in usa

kiwitony · 01-06-2011, 05:14 PM

I have a flywheel and pressure plate[new] if you want it.Pm me.Cheers Tony.May also have an intake,need to check my stash.

Fairlane500 · 01-06-2011, 08:43 PM

Picked up a cast steel intake and a unknown flywheel today for the project, are the 9" and 10" clutches the same mounting bolt pattern???? I would like to run a 10" Clutch???

I drug the block out today from under the bench and it is actually a C69A block not a C59A as I thought, which I think is better??? More cylinder wall meat is this correct???

Brian · 01-07-2011, 04:33 AM

9" and 10" bolt patterns are different.
You are correct; C69A block has really thick cylinder walls.
Welcome from yet another bloody kiwi! Brian

Fairlane500 · 01-07-2011, 04:53 AM

Cheers Brian, That's good because I want to take it out to 3 5/16 bore, any idea on the PCD for the different clutch mounting bolt patterns??? I want to get a clutch disc and cover sorted so I can get the rotating assembly balanced whilst it's at the machine shop.

Brian · 01-07-2011, 01:05 PM

11 1/4" PCD for the 10" long style pressure plate, although a bit hard to measure as the holes are not diametrically opposite. Brian

Fairlane500 · 01-07-2011, 03:24 PM

Ok, you guys running hollow adjustable lifters, at rebuild do you
A. Adjust lifters with the wrenches or
B. Drill lifter bores to 3/16 or similar to fit locking device?

Why?

All feedback appreciated.

52merc · 01-07-2011, 04:30 PM

well if you use a hot cam the lifters sit lower in the bores making it real hard to use the spanners,,i always drill my lifter bores so i just put a punch inthere to stop lifter turning easy peasy,,ol ron made a grinder to take the top of the lifter bore down so you could use spanner ,,hope this helps .where you located in nz fairlane trev nz

Fairlane500 · 01-07-2011, 04:59 PM

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Thanks 52merc, makes sense with the cam lobe, I think i will drill bores then. I am in Christchurch. Cheers appreciate the intel.

Fairlane500 · 01-07-2011, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian

11 1/4" PCD for the 10" long style pressure plate, although a bit hard to measure as the holes are not diametrically opposite. Brian

Well thats a positive because thats what i have with this one I picked up yesterday, It is supposedly a 47 flywheel, so that rings true. I had a dig around the shed for some old clutches and found an 11 disc and cover, but then when I went through some of my old Y block stuff I found a 10" cover and disc from a NZ assembled 56 Customline. It has a 10 inch clutch disc and cover. The cover fits the bolt hole pattern and looks to be the same as a flathead??? The clutch plate has a fine spline but measures at 10" so I am hoping this will work with a Flathead 10" clutch plate, looks identical to the pics on the net. It does not cross reference in the Macs book but then our Customlines had many subtle differences than the US assembled versions too.

52merc · 01-08-2011, 02:04 AM

it wont fit if your using a early trans you need the thick spline v trev

Fairlane500 · 01-08-2011, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 52merc

it wont fit if your using a early trans you need the thick spline v trev

Not using the disc just the pressure plate, yes the cusso one has a fine spline.

Mart · 01-08-2011, 09:32 AM

It should work as long as the three release lever heads match the flatty release bearing. Do you have a known flatty clutch cover of any diameter? as long as it matches that it should be ok.

Mart.

Fairlane500 · 01-08-2011, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mart

It should work as long as the three release lever heads match the flatty release bearing. Do you have a known flatty clutch cover of any diameter? as long as it matches that it should be ok.

Mart.

Good thinking Mart, I will check it against the 11 inch cover I have here, thanks.

Bassman/NZ · 01-09-2011, 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swoopNZ

Try Horopito for a sump.
They still have plenty of flatheads lying around.
Chris.NZ.
06 755 0818

Well good luck trying to deal with these clowns.
After three emails and two phone calls I finally got hold of a woman there. She wanted $55 + GST and freight for a used part that I ended up buying new from the US for $37 including freight! Their customer service is zero.

52merc · 01-09-2011, 01:23 PM

yes bassman i dont know how they stay in business,there stuff has been lying around that long outside its crap,

kiwitony · 01-09-2011, 03:00 PM

There are 2 flaty sumps on trademe at present,50 bucks each,no sump plugs but AJs might have them.As to horopito I tripped over an 8ba there, all there but gauranteed to be stuck and probily cracked,I asked the price, $750,too much to my mind for what would mostly be only parts,but hey someday somone will pay that.Cheers Tony.

Graeme / New Zealand · 01-10-2011, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwitony

There are 2 flaty sumps on trademe at present,50 bucks each,no sump plugs but AJs might have them.As to horopito I tripped over an 8ba there, all there but gauranteed to be stuck and probily cracked,I asked the price, $750,too much to my mind for what would mostly be only parts,but hey someday somone will pay that.Cheers Tony.

I got a c59 head out of an old shed at Horopito and paid a steep $100 for it because I was having trouble locating one at the time. The machine shop found a hairline crack in one of the chambers. I ditched it and wrote it off to experience. I know Barbara would have probably taken it back and given me a credit for it but it wasn't worth the hastle getting it back up there. Overall I have had good dealings with them. She had no qualms about me hunting through the shelves inside unsupervised, I could of ripped them off if I wanted to. They are an "old school wreckers yard" who if you have done business with them in the past will still give you a free reign to wander at will around the yard. Not many places will allow this these days. I'ts a good day out "fosiking" even if you don't find what you want. By the way I finally got a good C59 head from Bruce Cairns in Taranaki . I had to force his hand to take some money off me , a true v8er in the truest sense and not motivated by profit and he came to me by word of mouth from another v8er who posts here.

Hi Fairlane 500 from another kiwi

GB
Lower Hutt

Fairlane500 · 01-10-2011, 03:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwitony

There are 2 flaty sumps on trademe at present,50 bucks each,no sump plugs but AJs might have them.As to horopito I tripped over an 8ba there, all there but gauranteed to be stuck and probily cracked,I asked the price, $750,too much to my mind for what would mostly be only parts,but hey someday somone will pay that.Cheers Tony.

OK, I have seen them but was a little put off by both, the car sump the starter threads sound stripped and the truck sump inspection plate is missing, could be harder to find than a sump.

Is the starter mounting bolt threads an easy fix???

Bassman/NZ · 01-10-2011, 05:00 AM

Fairlane500...... if you're looking for flathead stuff, try Bryan Church 06 8444510. He has a LOT of flathead bits. He's in Napier, near me.

meric42 · 01-10-2011, 03:03 PM

Hi Fairlane500, I have a friend here in Dunedin who may be able to help with the Spyders you are looking for. I will check with him and get back to you. I know he has a full set of '37's for sale and maybe some spare '36's as well. Cheers, Meric.

Fairlane500 · 01-28-2011, 09:19 PM

OK I picked up a really nice 46-48 sump with oil filter fittings, starter cap in place so thats the last thing I needed, Dropping off to the machine shop the rest of the parts to get going with them, going to have to wait a little now for some bearings to turn up I think.

Prolly a dumb question but what was the intention of the split pin in the rear clutch area of the oil pan??? What was its function???

Jack E/NJ · 01-28-2011, 09:32 PM

Oh, you mean the famous cotter key pin. It's function of course was to keep the great cotter pin industry from going bankrupt during the Great Depression. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

Fairlane500 · 01-28-2011, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Oh, you mean the famous cotter key pin. It's function of course was to keep the great cotter pin industry from going bankrupt during the Great Depression. 8^)

Jack E/NJ

Nice one Jack, it looks like it's just there to rattle around to stop the hole blocking up??? Maybe!

Lawrie · 01-28-2011, 10:49 PM

You had better be quick at Horopito,I stopped off there twice in the last couple of weeks and cleaned them out of old v8 parts,lol.
But they atre right there is flathead stuff lying around every where,
Lawrie

Fairlane500 · 01-28-2011, 11:14 PM

Nice pic Lawrie, I live in NZ and have never been there!!! There are some large personal collections around NZ that would make your eyes water, one in particular here had my jaw scraping on the ground!!!!

flatheadfan · 01-29-2011, 04:01 AM

danliveshere-

One of the things I found with using a high pressure/volume oil pump in the early blocks is the increased leakage you get at the rear main. This may or may not be a problem in your situation. However, there is no rear oil seal in a conventional sense on these blocks and leakage at this point becomes problematic. If you increase oil pressure things seem to get worse. Again, I am only talking about my experience others may not have had this problem.

Tom

danliveshere · 01-29-2011, 10:58 AM

Thanks for the tip, Tom. When I get closer to reassembling the motor I'll get some help on the forum as to the best method of installing the gaskets, rear seal and pan.
Dan.

Fairlane500 · 01-29-2011, 02:25 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairlane500

Ok, you guys running hollow adjustable lifters, at rebuild do you
A. Adjust lifters with the wrenches or
B. Drill lifter bores to 3/16 or similar to fit locking device?

Why?

All feedback appreciated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 52merc

well if you use a hot cam the lifters sit lower in the bores making it real hard to use the spanners,,i always drill my lifter bores so i just put a punch inthere to stop lifter turning easy peasy,,ol ron made a grinder to take the top of the lifter bore down so you could use spanner ,,hope this helps .where you located in nz fairlane trev nz

Anyone have a photo of this being done or the completed job so i can get an idea where to drill these holes??? I want to do it before the blocks final clean for assembly. thanks

Fairlane500 · 02-01-2011, 04:08 AM

Anyone Stateside know of a reputable supplier for 39-48 .400 Offenhauser Heads, Reds are out of stock until April 2011 and Speedway have not replied to any emails... Need to ship outside US so a friendly retailer required.

Any help appreciated

52merc · 02-01-2011, 02:54 PM

send my your cell # to [email protected]

meric42 · 02-01-2011, 02:54 PM

Try Patrick's

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com

kiwitony · 02-02-2011, 02:23 AM

hi magoos in masterton has them,also american parts in christchurch.You need to spend a bit of time working out exchange rates and postage,but maybe cheaper buying local.The US postal charges are a killer these days,even with our good exchange rate.Cheers tony.

Fairlane500 · 02-02-2011, 02:27 AM

Aint that the truth, freight is a killer...

Fairlane500 · 02-10-2011, 03:11 AM

Got my last package of parts on Tuesday so its all set to go together once the machining is finished, been busy bead blasting all the old collected parts, its great to rejuvenate old parts, a quick degrease, pressure wash and bead blast and voila!!!

BillM · 02-10-2011, 08:39 PM

In regards to your oil pump: it seems the French pumps are easier to modify for full flow filter use. See this post on the other Flathead site for the details. You probably need to join to see the pictures.
http://flatheadv8.org/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1803

Fairlane500 · 02-11-2011, 12:06 AM

Thanks for posting Bill,

Fairlane500 · 02-11-2011, 11:54 PM

Ok, Fitting 8BA pumps to a C69A block, how have you blanked of the 8BA bleed hole??? Welch plug or drill and tap??? What works best???

Fairlane500 · 03-04-2011, 04:36 PM

Well, progress on the engine has halted, the block is stuck inside the cordon area of the earthquake zone, I cant get a hold of anyone at the business as they have no access to their business to date, so I guess its a waiting game to see what condition their building is in and what its contents now look like, for now I have no engine and no parts... Hopefully its not back to square one. Keep yall posted.

Ol' Ron · 03-04-2011, 07:25 PM

Welcome, Mate.

Fairlane500 · 03-04-2011, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Welcome, Mate.

Thanks Ron, I treasure your posts, great to see you back up and at em again,

Fairlane500 · 05-14-2011, 04:55 PM

Making progress, hopefully finished in the next month

Lawrie · 05-14-2011, 05:37 PM

Another REAL good place for parts is AJAYS in Whaihi.
Lawrie

Brian · 05-14-2011, 06:08 PM

Looking good John. I take it you're not going to run a fan? Brian

Fairlane500 · 05-14-2011, 07:15 PM

I run a 16" electric on her at the moment so just going to run a 8BA powermaster alternator withour fan drive.

Walt Dupont--Me. · 05-14-2011, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairlane500

Picked up a cast steel intake and a unknown flywheel today for the project, are the 9" and 10" clutches the same mounting bolt pattern???? I would like to run a 10" Clutch???

I drug the block out today from under the bench and it is actually a C69A block not a C59A as I thought, which I think is better??? More cylinder wall meat is this correct???

Fairlane 500, the pump in the pic looks like a regular M-19, not a HV pump, if so it's the one to use. The differance is the gears in HV pump are longer than the std M-19 The clutch bolt patten is differant in the 9 and 10in. pressure plate. I would use the 9in. in a 36 car, It's lighter than the 10-11 set up. You don't need a big clutch in a light car. I like the stock crab dist but if you want the post one have Bubba or someone set a Chevy one, I haven't heard anything bad about Per Tronex. spelling You can have 10-11 in. flywheel redrilled for a 9in. Have it balanced after and then bolt the pressure to it and balance it again, mark it so you bolt the pressure plate back on in the same place, pressure plates are always out of balance. Walt

Fairlane500 · 05-14-2011, 08:42 PM

Thanks Walt, thats great information, I appreciate that. I am awaiting a distributor from Bubba for it so hopefully its not to far away. We did exactly as you said with the balancing of the PP and FW and marked the mounting relationship accordingly after balancing the entire rotating assembly. John

Fairlane500 · 05-14-2011, 08:48 PM

Clutch is a 1946-48 Style I think, which was what the flywheel was from so I was told so I figured I would try to keep it compatible. At 276 cube I dont know what the HP increase would be over the standard 100HP 48 engine so I figured 10" would be o.k.

Walt Dupont--Me. · 05-15-2011, 07:38 AM

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The cotter pin rattles around to keep the hole from plugging up so the oil can run out. Walt

Joe/Ct · 05-15-2011, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairlane500

Not sure if the intro thing is as common here as the Hamb but anyway, My name is John and I'm a Ford-o-holic, I have a 36 Ford and a 57 Ford with Flathead and Y block power plants, I use the same handle on the Hamb and came to the Ford Barn to seek knowledge for my first flathead rebuild. Seems theres a wealth of knowledge here and I recognize a few from the Y Blocks forever site also.(great guys over there)

So I picked up a real nice bare 69A block, crank and a set of 8BA rods and pistons, a set of alloy Canadian C7RA heads, then I purchased a Isky Max 1 8BA cam to run a 8BA distributor and a new set of hollow adjustables, an 8BA valve train all from Red's, a pair of new truck 8BA water pumps, HV oil pump, best gasket kit, and a new Stromberg 97 locally, So I still have a few items to collect to get a complete engine as this thing was all just parts, but its off to the machine shop next week to get bored, valves etc and I should get her back as a short block. In the meantime I need to find a oil pan, flywheel, intake etc locally whilst the machine work is being done, cant wait to get it in the 36. She currently has a Ford Pilot 21 stud V8 and the only thing it passes is oil past the rings, been a good soldier all the same.

Keep you posted.

John...I haven't seen any post on this but are you sure the block has no cracks? Has the block been magnifluxed yet?

52merc · 05-15-2011, 05:07 PM

what you bore the engine to to get 274ci

Fairlane500 · 05-15-2011, 06:37 PM

3 5/16 and a 4" stroke crank.

Fairlane500 · 05-15-2011, 06:39 PM

Joe, yes had the block acid dipped twice and hot tanked three times, sonic tested the bores and crack tested the block. Had two small cracks from studs to water holes, nothing to be concerned about I was told by the engine machine shop. Its one of the cleanest flathead blocks I have seen and the best I could get.

JWL · 05-16-2011, 05:23 AM

No, you do not need a different gear set in order to turn something the correct direction.

The only issue with a HV pump is related to the amount of oil which is sometimes bypassed and therefore can contribute to adding temperature to the oil. The fact that the HV pump is not necessary does not mean it will cause damage. It won't.

The pictured pump is not the typical HV pump.

Fairlane500 · 05-25-2011, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWL

No, you do not need a different gear set in order to turn something the correct direction.

The only issue with a HV pump is related to the amount of oil which is sometimes bypassed and therefore can contribute to adding temperature to the oil. The fact that the HV pump is not necessary does not mean it will cause damage. It won't.

The pictured pump is not the typical HV pump.

I changed the crank gear from 59A to 8BA as the crank gears cut is opposite to each other, running the 8BA cam gear and crank gear.

I do have a question, do you guys plug a relief valve when running a relief valve equipped pump or just run the two??? JG

HOTROD_WILLIE · 05-25-2011, 12:26 PM

Enjoy

Fairlane500 · 05-27-2011, 09:47 PM

Test fitting some more parts getting things ready before paint.

Brendan · 05-27-2011, 10:11 PM

nice motor, i have a high volume pump in my 35 motor, also i am running both pressure relief valves i have about 20 lb of pressure at idle and about 55 to 57 lb at 50 mph

Fairlane500 · 05-27-2011, 10:18 PM

Thanks Brendan for the info, thats good to know.

Fairlane500 · 07-23-2011, 06:36 PM

Anyone have a reliable source for 8BA electronic distributors for a flathead, will look at any options as I want to get this engine finished.

ford38v8 · 07-23-2011, 07:59 PM

Fairlane, Your question should read: "Anyone have a source for a reliable electronic distributor..."
From all reports here in Shaky California, electronic ignitions are heat sensitive and unreliable. Best to stick to original Ford.

Fairlane500 · 04-05-2012, 02:29 AM

Well a year after my first post on the barn about this Flathead rebuild it finally lives.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwbDe...ature=youtu.be

Bassman/NZ · 04-05-2012, 03:31 AM

Beautiful!!

01-04-2011, 04:11 PM	#1
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Newbe From New Zealand Not sure if the intro thing is as common here as the Hamb but anyway, My name is John and I'm a Ford-o-holic, I have a 36 Ford and a 57 Ford with Flathead and Y block power plants, I use the same handle on the Hamb and came to the Ford Barn to seek knowledge for my first flathead rebuild. Seems theres a wealth of knowledge here and I recognize a few from the Y Blocks forever site also.(great guys over there) So I picked up a real nice bare 69A block, crank and a set of 8BA rods and pistons, a set of alloy Canadian C7RA heads, then I purchased a Isky Max 1 8BA cam to run a 8BA distributor and a new set of hollow adjustables, an 8BA valve train all from Red's, a pair of new truck 8BA water pumps, HV oil pump, best gasket kit, and a new Stromberg 97 locally, So I still have a few items to collect to get a complete engine as this thing was all just parts, but its off to the machine shop next week to get bored, valves etc and I should get her back as a short block. In the meantime I need to find a oil pan, flywheel, intake etc locally whilst the machine work is being done, cant wait to get it in the 36. She currently has a Ford Pilot 21 stud V8 and the only thing it passes is oil past the rings, been a good soldier all the same. Keep you posted. Last edited by Fairlane500; 01-06-2011 at 08:40 PM.

01-04-2011, 04:20 PM	#2
Jack E/NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,173	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Welcome, John! While you're waiting for the block and parts, what about re-doing the 21 studder? 8^) Jack E/NJ

01-04-2011, 05:04 PM	#3
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Newbe From New Zealand John,welcome to the barn. Your 97 will not work with a 8BA dizzy,[no vacume connection] You must use a 8BA # ford-holley.You cannot use manifold vacume either. You must use the port on the rear of the 8BA carb. ken ct usa

01-04-2011, 05:17 PM	#4
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Thanks Ken, I havent sorted a distributor yet and have not ruled out any options, I see a few here and the HAMB running Bubbas Chev modification (contact or petronix), MSD or Mallory unilite, Not sure which direction I will go yet!!! See what other info turns up here. Regards

01-04-2011, 05:30 PM	#5
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,745	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Hi. Welcome to the Barn. (From a relative newcomer) As you're mixing and matching parts, you could (if you are stuck) use the sump, flywheel and starter off your 21stud. You need to keep them together as a matched set, as the starter and ring gear teeth are different, and the mounting of the starter to the sump is different. But as a set, they would fit your 59A block and crank. Mart.

01-04-2011, 05:36 PM	#6
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks Mart, As a last resort I would do that, this 21 stud I have has a 11 inch clutch and flywheel pattern only, I want to run a 9 inch set up as this 21 stud is lazy as with the 11 inch, I would also like to keep using the car till the engines done,, and I would like to run it up and get confident with tune etc before installing. Good info though thanks, regards.

01-04-2011, 09:02 PM	#7
Walt Dupont--Me. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gardiner Me. Posts: 4,200	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Fairlane500. Make sure the machine shop that is building your short block puts the main line oil plug in behind the cam gear. Alot of people leave that out and no oil pressure. There is also one in the rear of the block. You really don't need a HV oil pump in a street engine with stock oil clearances. To much oil pressure is not good. A standard M-19 oil pump with a truck pickup tube will work fine in your 59 engine. Walt

01-04-2011, 09:50 PM	#8
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Thanks for the advice Walt appreciated. Regards.

01-05-2011, 09:40 AM	#9
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Welcome to the new Fordbarn. It's always nice to have newbies to help. Listen to the engine gurus who post here for some good advice. One thing I thought about when you mention running an 8BA distributor is that you must also use an 8ba timing gear and crank gear to get correct rotation. You probably already knew this but thought I would mention anyway. Also, don't forget that that little 21 studder can be built up to run with the bigger dogs as well. Good luck! __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

01-05-2011, 09:47 AM	#10
Craig CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sherman, CT Posts: 330	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Hi Fairlane500; I wouldn't run a high volume oil pump for the engine you're building. Good luck, and welcome, Craig.

01-05-2011, 05:09 PM	#12
danliveshere Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cairns , Australia Posts: 746	Re: Newbe From New Zealand I too am interested to learn about the high volume pump as I bought one for my 35 block. What's the issues regarding this as I require a long term reliable motor as the car is being built as a wedding car.

01-05-2011, 08:33 PM	#13
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Walt, Question for you what is this pump i have bought called a M?? Will it be o.k.? Is it even a HV pump??? Appreciate any info from anyone on this pump pictured above, Regards

01-05-2011, 08:36 PM	#14
swoopNZ MEMBER EMERITUS Join Date: May 2010 Location: New Zealand Posts: 1,380	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Try Horopito for a sump. They still have plenty of flatheads lying around. Chris.NZ. 06 755 0818

01-06-2011, 01:42 AM	#16
52merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new zealand Posts: 1,054	Re: Newbe From New Zealand good to see another kiwi spreading there wings trev

01-06-2011, 02:04 PM	#18
52merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new zealand Posts: 1,054	Re: Newbe From New Zealand what part of nz are you in ?? spyder caps are available in usa

01-06-2011, 05:14 PM	#19
kiwitony Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Whangaparaoa New Zealand Posts: 263	Re: Newbe From New Zealand I have a flywheel and pressure plate[new] if you want it.Pm me.Cheers Tony.May also have an intake,need to check my stash.

01-06-2011, 08:43 PM	#20
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Picked up a cast steel intake and a unknown flywheel today for the project, are the 9" and 10" clutches the same mounting bolt pattern???? I would like to run a 10" Clutch??? I drug the block out today from under the bench and it is actually a C69A block not a C59A as I thought, which I think is better??? More cylinder wall meat is this correct??? __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal... Last edited by Fairlane500; 01-06-2011 at 08:51 PM.

01-07-2011, 04:33 AM	#21
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,829	Re: Newbe From New Zealand 9" and 10" bolt patterns are different. You are correct; C69A block has really thick cylinder walls. Welcome from yet another bloody kiwi! Brian

01-07-2011, 04:53 AM	#22
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Cheers Brian, That's good because I want to take it out to 3 5/16 bore, any idea on the PCD for the different clutch mounting bolt patterns??? I want to get a clutch disc and cover sorted so I can get the rotating assembly balanced whilst it's at the machine shop. __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal...

01-07-2011, 01:05 PM	#23
Brian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Masterton, New Zealand Posts: 3,829	Re: Newbe From New Zealand 11 1/4" PCD for the 10" long style pressure plate, although a bit hard to measure as the holes are not diametrically opposite. Brian

01-07-2011, 03:24 PM	#24
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Ok, you guys running hollow adjustable lifters, at rebuild do you A. Adjust lifters with the wrenches or B. Drill lifter bores to 3/16 or similar to fit locking device? Why? All feedback appreciated. __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal...

01-07-2011, 04:30 PM	#25
52merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new zealand Posts: 1,054	Re: Newbe From New Zealand well if you use a hot cam the lifters sit lower in the bores making it real hard to use the spanners,,i always drill my lifter bores so i just put a punch inthere to stop lifter turning easy peasy,,ol ron made a grinder to take the top of the lifter bore down so you could use spanner ,,hope this helps .where you located in nz fairlane trev nz

01-07-2011, 04:59 PM	#26
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks 52merc, makes sense with the cam lobe, I think i will drill bores then. I am in Christchurch. Cheers appreciate the intel. __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal...

01-08-2011, 02:04 AM	#28
52merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new zealand Posts: 1,054	Re: Newbe From New Zealand it wont fit if your using a early trans you need the thick spline v trev

01-08-2011, 09:32 AM	#30
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,745	Re: Newbe From New Zealand It should work as long as the three release lever heads match the flatty release bearing. Do you have a known flatty clutch cover of any diameter? as long as it matches that it should be ok. Mart.

01-09-2011, 01:23 PM	#33
52merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new zealand Posts: 1,054	Re: Newbe From New Zealand yes bassman i dont know how they stay in business,there stuff has been lying around that long outside its crap,

01-09-2011, 03:00 PM	#34
kiwitony Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Whangaparaoa New Zealand Posts: 263	Re: Newbe From New Zealand There are 2 flaty sumps on trademe at present,50 bucks each,no sump plugs but AJs might have them.As to horopito I tripped over an 8ba there, all there but gauranteed to be stuck and probily cracked,I asked the price, $750,too much to my mind for what would mostly be only parts,but hey someday somone will pay that.Cheers Tony.

01-10-2011, 05:00 AM	#37
Bassman/NZ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napier, New Zealand Posts: 2,001	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Fairlane500...... if you're looking for flathead stuff, try Bryan Church 06 8444510. He has a LOT of flathead bits. He's in Napier, near me.

01-10-2011, 03:03 PM	#38
meric42 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Blenheim, New Zealand Posts: 877	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Hi Fairlane500, I have a friend here in Dunedin who may be able to help with the Spyders you are looking for. I will check with him and get back to you. I know he has a full set of '37's for sale and maybe some spare '36's as well. Cheers, Meric. __________________ I need an 01A 1453 Brkt Spare wheel hold down for my sedan delivery - PLEASE HELP Gotta love my '42 Sedan Delivery's - Now that I own the only two in New Zealand http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=580

01-28-2011, 09:32 PM	#40
Jack E/NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,173	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Oh, you mean the famous cotter key pin. It's function of course was to keep the great cotter pin industry from going bankrupt during the Great Depression. 8^) Jack E/NJ

01-28-2011, 10:49 PM	#42
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,212	Re: Newbe From New Zealand You had better be quick at Horopito,I stopped off there twice in the last couple of weeks and cleaned them out of old v8 parts,lol. But they atre right there is flathead stuff lying around every where, Lawrie

01-28-2011, 11:14 PM	#43
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Nice pic Lawrie, I live in NZ and have never been there!!! There are some large personal collections around NZ that would make your eyes water, one in particular here had my jaw scraping on the ground!!!! __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal...

01-29-2011, 04:01 AM	#44
flatheadfan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Michigan Posts: 1,218	Re: Newbe From New Zealand danliveshere- One of the things I found with using a high pressure/volume oil pump in the early blocks is the increased leakage you get at the rear main. This may or may not be a problem in your situation. However, there is no rear oil seal in a conventional sense on these blocks and leakage at this point becomes problematic. If you increase oil pressure things seem to get worse. Again, I am only talking about my experience others may not have had this problem. Tom

01-29-2011, 10:58 AM	#45
danliveshere Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cairns , Australia Posts: 746	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Thanks for the tip, Tom. When I get closer to reassembling the motor I'll get some help on the forum as to the best method of installing the gaskets, rear seal and pan. Dan.

02-01-2011, 04:08 AM	#47
Fairlane500 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 250	Re: Newbe From New Zealand Anyone Stateside know of a reputable supplier for 39-48 .400 Offenhauser Heads, Reds are out of stock until April 2011 and Speedway have not replied to any emails... Need to ship outside US so a friendly retailer required. Any help appreciated __________________ Life is not a dress rehearsal...