Tool For Removing Crank Shaft Pulley

[Lembomw]

Well, since the oil pan if off due to some serious oil leaking going on (after dropping the pan I discovered that there is no rear main oil return tube) and I have to take the timing cover off so I can replace the camshaft thrust plunger (lots of noise coming from the cam when the engine is rotated) I thought I might as well install a one-piece crankshaft seal instead of using the two piece rope seals. I understand that the radiator has to be removed and the engine jacked up enough so I can get the crank pulley off. My question is, is there a special pulley puller I need to use to get the crankshaft pulley off? I have looked in Snyder’s and Bratton’s but do not see any. Thanks, Mark

[Mike V. Florida]

Are you sure you want to do that? I've read alot here about the one piece seals failing (both of mine, front and rear leak badly).

The vendors even have a repair kit to go back to rope seals if your rear has been machined to accept the one piece.

[Milton]

Good luck with the one piece seal. When it leaks there is a bright side. It's a lot easier to put the two piece rope style back in.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Lembomw

Well, since the oil pan if off due to some serious oil leaking going on (after dropping the pan I discovered that there is no rear main oil return tube) and I have to take the timing cover off so I can replace the camshaft thrust plunger (lots of noise coming from the cam when the engine is rotated) I thought I might as well install a one-piece crankshaft seal instead of using the two piece rope seals. I understand that the radiator has to be removed and the engine jacked up enough so I can get the crank pulley off. My question is, is there a special pulley puller I need to use to get the crankshaft pulley off? I have looked in Snyder’s and Bratton’s but do not see any. Thanks, Mark

If you had a leak before just wait till you install that new modern seal.

[MCHinson]

Just in case you need someone else to say the same thing.... Don't do it. The rope seals will work just fine. I once bought a Model A that had a bad rear main leak. The guy that sold the car never could find the problem. After a little research, I pulled the pan and found the oil return tube in the bottom of the pan. After replacing the oil return tube, the rear main never leaked a drop. He probably would have not sold the car if he had realized how easy the fix was.

[1931 flamingo]

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Make sure you loosen the rear motor mounts and remove bolts before lifting front of motor too much.
Paul in CT

[Patrick L.]

A good [and big] 2 or 3 jaw puller along with some heat will get the gear off.. I'm with the others, use the rope seal and don't cut it, just soak it well..

[Lembomw]

Thank you gentlemen, looks like I will stick with the two piece rope seal. Will soak them well in oil for a couple of days before installing. Thanks, Mark

[Brentwood Bob]

Try this. Put the new seal in a ziplock, add 1/4 cup motor oil. Zip it shut with no air trapped inside. Take a 1 lb. coffee can. place the zip lock in. fill with boiling water. Soak 1/2 hour. remove the seal. install in the pan. Use a 1 " socket to seat the new seal. Bob

[Bill Steiner]

Use the rope seal. Bill

[Mikeinnj]

After you remove the four rear motor mount bolts that fasten to the flywheel housing, you can gently jack up the engine enough to give you clearance from the front cross member. Be sure to place a piece of 3/4" plywood between your floor jack and the bottom of the oil pan so as not to damage the pan, then use a large 2 or 3 jaw puller but be sure to protect the front nose of the crankshaft so you do not damage the internal threads. If the pully is stubborn,put some tension on he puller and heat the pulley where it fits over the crankshaft. I use a paint stripper gun - for heat. If needed tap the end of the puller while under pressure and that might pop the pulley loose. Good luck !

[Sparky]

You may get lucky and have the pulley slide right off like mine did. The other problem you may have is finding the right socket for removing the nut. You need a 1-3/8" socket. I found a deep impact socket with 1/2" drive on ebay.

[Lembomw]

After having read about the Specialty Motor Cam round seal I thought that this one was an improved seal that would work with no problems. Since the consensus seems to be for the rope type seal at this time, for now I think I am going to just put new rope seals back in rather than experimenting so I can try and get the car back on the road (have driven it 15 minutes so far since purchasing in February) and not miss the driving season. In the next year or so I will be doing a complete body & engine overhaul, so I will discuss the one piece seal with the engine builder to see what they use.

Once I get the oil pan and timing gear cover back on and drive it I will let you know if the leaking stopped or at least slowed down.

Thank you all for your input. Mark