I’m getting close to trying to start my 1956 bird after a lonnnnng ordeall

[zuburg]

After almost 5 years of trying to fix the Frankenstein 1956 T-bird I bought, I’m almost ready to see if it will start. I just have a few things to button up.

One thing is on my old engine a small curvy tube that I now know was the automatic choke inlet tube. It was the tube that was inserted into the grommet under the ledge of the carb and then went into the intake via a brass elbow. It broke trying to remove it when disassembling so I now have a new tube. I couldn’t reuse the old brass elbow so will have to order it. Does the brass elbow just push into the hole on the intake?

Also, I don’t seem to have an outlet tube or crossover. Is something missing or will it run with just the inlet tube?

[dmsfrr]

Are you talking about these parts?
The long thin tube crosses left to right thru the inside of the intake manifold. It provides heated air for the choke and keeps it separate from the exhaust gases inside that larger crossover passage, so the choke mechanism doesn't get clogged up or damaged.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

ditto to what dmsfrr posted, and to add to his post - that grommet in the base of the Holley 4000 carburetor is for the tube to provide hot air to the air/fuel mix. The other side of the crossover tube (passenger side) is actually for the hot air choke feed.

Keep at it - you will get this thing squared away my friend!

[zuburg]

I’ll check in my box of parts to see if I have the outlet tube. (there are very few parts left) I know I’ve never seen the insulator but I’m not surprised. The old engine did run, so should I assume the crossover tube is in the manifold or is there a way to tell? How do you remove the old one and can you install a new one with the manifold in place? Do you have a picture showing the outlet tube on the passenger side?

[dmsfrr]

It may(?) be possible to install a missing long tube from the passenger side if the valves & valve springs aren't in the way. I've never tried it, and it may be a one-way procedure???
If you can figure a way to see if the long thin tube will hold some lung powered air pressure when the other end is temporarily plugged, that would tell you if the tube is in place and in potentially good condition.
If the old tube is in there and damaged I'd guess the manifold needs to come off to replace it. OR, just plug both ends of the small hole where the tube is, but then you'd have no hot air for the choke. I don't know if an electric choke cover will work on a teapot carb. I've heard the coil spring may be wound the opposite direction???

Photo 3 above is the outlet tube on the passenger side. It may be a photo of a '57 but they're 99% the same.

Here's the only photo I have of the '56 driver's side, it's not very good.

[Fortunateson]

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Now that's a very rare car you have! '46 T-Bird, eh? Just a friendly editorial notice...LOL

[KULTULZ]

The tube supplies heated air to the choke assy, not to fuel mixture -

Does the brass elbow just push into the hole on the intake?

Yes, just an interference fit.

[zuburg]

Fat fingers win again.

[zuburg]

I was thinking about this all night worrying I would have to take apart all the stuff I’ve just done and remove the intake to fix this. (I thought maybe I should just set it on fire and collect the insurance.)

I was wondering if the tube stuck out on each side and the brass elbows connected but it sounds like you don’t see the tube once installed?

[dmsfrr]

If the brass elbows are fitted to both sides the choke heat tube should be in there. They are a snug fit into the ends of the tube, and should twist out if you want to remove them. The elbows likely cover the ends of the tube from view.
If the tube weren't in there the elbows would fall out.

Two photos of a '56 ECZ-A intake manifold with the heat tube, you can see the ends from the outside. You may need a small mirror and a good light?
The tube shows easily on the drivers side of this one as the end is flush with the manifold surface. photo # 1
The passenger side end is recessed a bit but can be seen inside. photo # 2
Just because I could, I inserted a length of 1/8 plastic tubing into it, covered the hole at the other side of the manifold with a finger and blew into the plastic tube with good results. I'm hoping you can do the same.
.

[KULTULZ]

The only way to replace the tube is to remove the intake. CASCO offers the tube and an install tool.

If the tube is rotted out (or rots out), you will hear exhaust tones. Not as bad today as they removed lead from gasoline.

[zuburg]

Thanks to all for the pointers. I now know why I was confused and didn’t have the outlet tube (passenger side) tube. The hole was blocked off with a bolt (see 1st picture). Good news: I can see the crossover tube. Bad news: it does not hold pressure when I blow through it while plugging the other end with my finger. 2nd picture shows the end of the old inlet tube that broke off trying to remove it from the brass elbow. I’m guessing the long tube looks similar or worse? l’m guessing it might be hard to remove the long tube based on the shape of the inlet tube?

In looking at the Concours catalog (love their illustrated catalog, it helped me more than the shop manual), on page 76, it shows part # 9492 (57, heat tube end “mushroom” plug on the inlet (driver side) looking like you plug the inlet side with it. It also shows the inlet tube with brass elbow. I assume one would use one or the other depending on your situation? When would you use the plug? It does not show the plug on the outlet (passenger side).

Questions:

1. When would you use the mushroom plug mentioned above?

2. What would happen if you had the inlet tube connected but the outlet side plugged? Would it still run? Would the choke effectively not work? I live in NC, pretty moderate temps. The car started set up this way, even with all it’s other issues.

3. What would happen if I hooked up both the inlet and outlet tubes as normal, knowing the crossover tube does not hold pressure? Would I get some heat to help the choke?

4. I have one new line with fittings that I have yet to install and am not sure what it is (last picture). The only thing I can think of is the fuel line going to the fuel pump. I currently have a rubber fuel hose connecting the metal line from the tank with a short line from the fuel pump.

5. I searched for some info on an electric choke in case I needed to do that to solve my problem with the heat tube but didn’t find any specifics other than you might have to modify one to work in the opposite direction. Any pointers to specific posts? I FOUND A YOUTUBE VIDEO ON HOW TO INSTALL ELECTRIC CHOKE TO HOLLY 4000 (LOOKS EASY AND STRAIGHTFORWARD) If I go this route, do I plug both holes for the long heat tube?

[Daves55Sedan]

The tube running inside the manifold MUST be continuous and without flaws (corrosion, holes, etc). If the tube is compromised, the surrounding vacuum will suck vacuum through any hole in the tube and negate the purpose (which is to transfer heat from the intake heat-riser passage up to the auto-choke spring housing).

That BOLT inserted at the end of the tube on that side of the intake may have damaged the inside of the tube such that the new brass fitting cannot be fitted tightly into the tube anymore. If they force-threaded or tapped threads into that tube for the bolt, I would be concerned, but if you can get the brass fitting fitted tightly into the tube, there might only be a very small leak (of heat) out the end of the thread, which might be okay. The main thing is, the brass fitting must fit tight in the tube and not fall out.

[Daves55Sedan]

Tell ya what! If you cant get the choke side of that tube to work out for you, you can keep the other side hooked up and put that bolt back in the tube on the choke side (but get rid of that star-washer on the bolt and replace with a flat-washer). Snug up the bolt so it wont fall out, it doesn't need any torque at all.
Now, get one of those accessory outboard style exhaust manifold mounted choke heat-tube/capture/clamp assemblies if you can find one. Clamp the capture housing to the exhaust manifold and route the copper tubing from the capture housing to the choke housing (bend tubing as required). Then hook up the fitting that clamps the copper tubing to the choke housing.
Note: those aftermarket choke heat tube assemblies are cheap garbage and get real ugly after a while with heavy rust. You may want to remove the capture housing from the copper tube and use Hi-heat primer, then a good quality hi-temperature exhaust manifold enamel (at least 1000 degrees) on both sides of the capture housing. Use a stainless steel worm-gear clamp to attach the assembly to the exhaust manifold. That way, you can re-use what you have and not need to take the intake manifold back off the heads, ruining your gaskets.
BTW, that is the wrong application for a star-washer on that plug-bolt. A star-washer is used to insure electrical continuity, but there may be a small air gap all around that washer (which you do not want). You want to hold the heat inside the tube.

[zuburg]

I think I will look at converting to an electric choke. I found a good video by Mike’s Carburetors that showed how to do it. It looks like the easiest solution. I’ve got some questions in to him but would appreciate your feedback.

I assume if I install the electric choke, I should plug both holes on the intake where the heat tube is? I could use those mushroom plugs I referenced above.

Also, should I plug the holes (at least one was a grommet, I assume they both have a grommet?) on the carb where the inlet and outlet tubes go? If so, what would be a good way to plug it?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

The tube running inside the manifold MUST be continuous and without flaws (corrosion, holes, etc). If the tube is compromised, the surrounding vacuum will suck vacuum through any hole in the tube and negate the purpose (which is to transfer heat from the intake heat-riser passage up to the auto-choke spring housing). ...

There is no vacuum inside the large center crossover of the intake manifold, it's for exhaust, to heat the carburetor and a thin tube for the hot air choke setup of a T-Bird carburetor. See photos 2 and 3 in comment # 2 above.

zuburg;
Questions:
1. When would you use the mushroom plug mentioned above?
> > The mushroom cap can be used in place of the air inlet tube on the drivers side. On a '56 that tube draws air in from inside the air cleaner / carburetor. The mushroom cap is NOT a plug, it is open on the flat side and is an air inlet fitting.
photo # 1

2. What would happen if you had the inlet tube connected but the outlet side plugged? Would it still run? Would the choke effectively not work? I live in NC, pretty moderate temps. The car started set up this way, even with all it’s other issues.
> > The choke would not have heated air to operate it. Carburetor vacuum draws clean air into the small crossover tube from the drivers side, it is heated inside the exhaust crossover of the intake manifold, then is drawn up thru the choke housing to heat the coiled spring and continues into the carburetor.

3. What would happen if I hooked up both the inlet and outlet tubes as normal, knowing the crossover tube does not hold pressure? Would I get some heat to help the choke?
> > Exhaust debris and corrosive fumes would clog the choke mechanism and also vent thru the tube on the drivers side into the carburetor.
The center passage of the intake manifold is an exhaust crossover. photo # 2
It heats the carburetor when the engine is cold. Exhaust is forced thru it by a heat riser valve on the back end of a T-Bird passenger side exhaust manifold. photo # 3
The heat riser valve is usually removed from cars that aren't 'daily drivers' during winter weather.

4. I have one new line with fittings that I have yet to install and am not sure what it is (last picture). The only thing I can think of is the fuel line going to the fuel pump. I currently have a rubber fuel hose connecting the metal line from the tank with a short line from the fuel pump.

5. I searched for some info on an electric choke in case I needed to do that to solve my problem with the heat tube but didn’t find any specifics other than you might have to modify one to work in the opposite direction. Any pointers to specific posts? I FOUND A YOUTUBE VIDEO ON HOW TO INSTALL ELECTRIC CHOKE TO HOLLY 4000 (LOOKS EASY AND STRAIGHTFORWARD) If I go this route, do I plug both holes for the long heat tube?
> > Yes, both small holes for the leaky thin tube will need to be plugged at their outside ends or exhaust will be blowing out of them.
An electric or manual choke may be the easiest solution at this point.
.

[Daves55Sedan]

I'm not so sure it would be a good idea to plug both ends if the heat riser tube inside the manifold. If you did, you would trap heat inside the tubing which most probably would cool faster than the surrounding cast iron intake manifold causing condensation to occur inside the tube. But I'm not an expert on this, so let more intelligent heads among us chime in.

Added: if the tube inside the manifold is known to have a hole in it, exhaust gases will get into the tube and blow out the ends, so by all means plug both ends if they are no longer used.

As far as the copper tubing connection to the bottom of the choke spring housing, I would remove the copper tube and screw the brass fitting back on the housing leaving the copper tube hole in the "cap" without plugging it, but again, lets hear from others more familiar with auto-choke conversions. The theory is, since now there is no need to hold heat inside the choke housing, it might not hurt to let it breath a little.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by zuburg

. . . Good news: I can see the crossover tube. Bad news: it does not hold pressure when I blow through it while plugging the other end with my finger. 2nd picture shows the end of the old inlet tube that broke off trying to remove it from the brass elbow. I’m guessing the long tube looks similar or worse?. . .

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

.... get one of those accessory outboard style exhaust manifold mounted choke heat-tube/capture/clamp assemblies if you can find one. Clamp the capture housing to the exhaust manifold and route the copper tubing from the capture housing to the choke housing (bend tubing as required). ...

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I'm not so sure it would be a good idea to plug both ends if the heat riser tube inside the manifold. If you did, you would trap heat inside the tubing which most probably would cool faster than the surrounding cast iron intake manifold causing condensation to occur inside the tube. ...

Since the internal tube has already failed plugging both ends won't hurt it more & will keep exhaust from blowing out of the open holes.

There is an alternate passenger side exhaust manifold that has a hot air fitting for the choke built into it.
Much better looking than the aftermarket add-ons. B9AE-9430-... photos 1 thru 3.
They were Ford's solution to the thin tube bad idea.
There was also a temporary solution of a screw in cap that functioned from carb vacuum drawing in clean outside air for the choke around its outer edge then out thru a tube in the center, up to the choke. Photos 4 & 5

[KULTULZ]

This is a DEFLECTOR and was used on the 1957/59 FYB-

[KULTULZ]

If MIKE'S CARBS has an H4000 ELECT CHOKE KIT, please pass it on.

You can block off the intake manifold heat passage with a specialty pair of intake gaskets and/or defeat the heat riser valve, or you can do as you mentioned, just cap screw the tube cross-over. There will be no more heat than when the tube was working.

If removing the choke heated air inlet, you need to cap off the choke housing fitting so as not to allow the egine to draw unfiltered air (vacuum leak).

[zuburg]

Well I do like the exhaust manifold idea better than the clamp-on type or removing the intake to do it right. It’s just that I am so close now, I can’t stomach tearing it all apart to remove the intake.

Assuming Mike’s has the electric choke I need, I think that would look best, be easier to do and also less expensive. Looks like a win-win-win to me.

That said, I’m still unsure what I should do to work with the electric choke.

1. I think I should plug both heat tube holes on the intake. Since the crossover tube appears to be very tight in the opening so I think I need something to go into the tube and plug it up. I’m not sure what I should use to do that. The bolt that the PO used was not a tight fit and could easily be pulled out.

2. I just figured out where the outlet tube goes into the bottom of the original choke (since I didn’t have one on the old engine I didn’t know where it actually went), so should I plug this since I will put the electric choke where the original choke is?

3. Should I plug the grommet on the driver side or put in one of the breather mushroom plugs? If plug the grommet, how best to do that (just put in a bolt that fits tight or maybe a shaft like a pin from a door hinge cut to size?)

This is all I can think of.

By the way, here is the link to the video by Mike’s Carburetors:
https://youtu.be/rkJkCWhip4c

Link to his web site:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

[dmsfrr]

zuburg; ...
1. I think I should plug both heat tube holes on the intake. Since the crossover tube appears to be very tight in the opening so I think I need something to go into the tube and plug it up. I’m not sure what I should use to do that. The bolt that the PO used was not a tight fit and could easily be pulled out.
> > A bolt in each end that's a close fit, with a little high-temp gasket sealer on the threads might work.

2. I just figured out where the outlet tube goes into the bottom of the original choke (since I didn’t have one on the old engine I didn’t know where it actually went), so should I plug this since I will put the electric choke where the original choke is?
> > The carburetor is designed to draw a small amount of air in thru the choke cover, it shouldn't be a problem, or you could plug it. Not sure if the heating coil for an electric choke needs the moving air to keep it from overheating.

3. Should I plug the grommet on the driver side or put in one of the breather mushroom plugs? If plug the grommet, how best to do that (just put in a bolt that fits tight or maybe a shaft like a pin from a door hinge cut to size?)
> > Plugging the hole in the carb flange where the metal tube was will keep dirt from being drawn inside.
The 'mushroom plug' will pass air thru it, not close off the hole and may be the wrong size. Photos below
.

[zuburg]

Thanks for all your suggestions . Just a couple of questions for clarification:

> > The carburetor is designed to draw a small amount of air in thru the choke cover, it shouldn't be a problem, or you could plug it. Not sure if the heating coil for an electric choke needs the air moving to keep it from overheating.>>
Not sure what you mean by choke cover. Are you talking about the vertical tube that is right under the left part of the choke? I thought this must be where the outlet tube from the intake heat tube is inserted? Isn’t this where the heated air is blown into the choke? If this shouldn’t be completely plugged, maybe this is another place to use the mushroom plug to cut down on dirt entering? I’ll ask Mike’s what they think. He had another video on how to restore the choke. The one he was restoring was very dirty and frozen up.

> > Plugging the hole in the carb flange where the metal tube was will keep dirt from being sucked inside. The 'mushroom plug' will pass air thru it and not close off the hole. Photos below >> Are you suggesting plugging up the grommet hole or does the carb need some air? I thought when all the heat tubes were installed correctly, clean air was pulled from the carb through the grommet hole and through the heat crossover, then up to the choke?

[dmsfrr]

"Not sure what you mean by choke cover."

The choke cover is a round black plastic housing over the coiled bi-metal spring that operates the choke linkage.
Heated air is drawn into the original choke mechanism of the carburetor by intake manifold vacuum. It heats the coiled spring which moves the choke linkage.
Photos 1 & 2

"Are you suggesting plugging up the grommet hole ...?"

I was commenting on your thought of removing the choke air tubes and plugging both ends of the long thin heat tube inside the intake manif. The resulting empty hole in the grommet at the left front of the carb should be closed. Photo 3


"I thought when all the heat tubes were installed correctly, clean air was pulled from the carb through the grommet hole and through the heat crossover, then up to the choke?"

That is correct, but since the long thin heat exchange tube inside the exhaust crossover has failed you can't use any of that original setup.
.

[zuburg]

I apologize for coming back with so many questions. I think I am following you but want to be sure.


When you say "Heated air is drawn into the original choke mechanism of the carburetor by intake manifold vacuum" are you talking about drawing the heated air up through the outlet tube from the heat tube in the intake? My photo points to the thing I described as "vertical tube that is right under the left part of the choke". Is this where the outlet tube connected to the heat tube attaches to? It sounds like you suggest leaving this open in case it helps prevent the electric choke from overheating?


Here's the final plan as I understand it:
1. Plug both holes on the intake at each end of the heat tube.
2. Plug the grommet hole at the left front of the carb.
3. Leave the vertical tube under the choke open?
4. Install the electric choke.


This will all be pretty easy and not take that much time.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by zuburg

I apologize for coming back with so many questions. I think I am following you but want to be sure.

No need to apologize.

When you say "Heated air is drawn into the original choke mechanism of the carburetor by intake manifold vacuum" are you talking about drawing the heated air up through the outlet tube from the heat tube in the intake?

My photo points to the thing I described as "vertical tube that is right under the left part of the choke". Is this where the outlet tube connected to the heat tube attaches to? It sounds like you suggest leaving this open in case it helps prevent the electric choke from overheating?

Here's the final plan as I understand it:


1. Plug both holes on the intake at each end of the heat tube.
2. Plug the grommet hole at the left front of the carb.
3. Leave the vertical tube under the choke open?
4. Install the electric choke.

This will all be pretty easy and not take that much time.

Let's try this again. Fresh air is drawn into the left cross-over tube opening by engine vacuum, that vacuum originating within the choke housing. The air is heated within the cross-over tube and that heated air is drawn into the choke mechanism to supply heat to the choke thermostat (brown cap).

If the cross-over tube (9890) is not perforated with rust, it can be left alone as no exhaust gases from the intake manifold exhaust gas cross-over passage will enter the tube. If the cross-over tube is rusted, you will have to block the tube on either end as you will be leaking exhaust at the intake and outlet tube openings.

The air intake on the choke housing should be blocked off as to not permit a vacuum leak or ingesting unfiltered air. Depending on electric choke design, they may recommend a brass fitting containing a mesh filter to somewhat filter incoming air and to prevent the choke thermostat from over heating.

[scicala]

"The air intake on the choke housing should be blocked off as to not permit a vacuum leak or ingesting unfiltered air. Depending on electric choke design, they may recommend a brass fitting containing a mesh filter to somewhat filter incoming air and to prevent the choke thermostat from over heating."

Do not block off the threaded nipple on the choke housing where the original hot air tube from the manifold connected. You need the air flow thru the housing and bimetal spring to keep it from over heating. It isn't anymore of a vacuum leak than with the tube connected s original. It's a very slight vacuum leak that doesn't effect the carburetor function. If concerned about dirt being drawn in, you can put a cap on it with a fine brass screen.

Sal

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by scicala

Do not block off the threaded nipple on the choke housing where the original hot air tube from the manifold connected. You need the air flow thru the housing and bimetal spring to keep it from over heating. It isn't anymore of a vacuum leak than with the tube connected s original. It's a very slight vacuum leak that doesn't effect the carburetor function. If concerned about dirt being drawn in, you can put a cap on it with a fine brass screen.

Sal

Sorry, I disagree here. That vacuum draw is calibrated and is a part of the fuel trim/calibration. It will throw the mixture off (lean-out). As for cooling, how can it cool with inlet air @ hot exhaust temp?

You may be thinking of a later aftermarket 12V electric choke. That is where you would use the vacuum draw as a cooler (depending on supplier). Drawing unfiltered air @ 14:1 ratio is a lot of dirty air.

[zuburg]

In my case, the hot air tube is not connected. That is the reason I’m converting to an electric choke. I am plugging both ends of the heat tube in the intake and going with the electric choke.

I bought an electric choke from Mike’s Carburetors, and he advised plugging of the nipple going to the choke where the hot air tube normally connects. I will also plug the grommet on the front of the carb where the inlet tube goes.

[scicala]

"Sorry, I disagree here. That vacuum draw is calibrated and is a part of the fuel trim/calibration. It will throw the mixture off (lean-out). As for cooling, how can it cool with inlet air @ hot exhaust temp?"

"You may be thinking of a later aftermarket 12V electric choke. That is where you would use the vacuum draw as a cooler (depending on supplier). Drawing unfiltered air @ 14:1 ratio is a lot of dirty air."

I was talking about it with using an electric heated choke thermostat. I thought that's was the direction Zuburg was going with.
The very slight vacuum leak by leaving the choke unplugged has already been compensated for in the original calibration of the carburetor. The original factory system had the same slight vacuum leak.

Sal

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by scicala

If concerned about dirt being drawn in, you can put a cap on it with a fine brass screen. Sal

The idea I had of just re-using the original brass fitting on the choke housing with the hole in it for the copper tube would be sufficient, because that little 1/4" diameter hole would allow some heat to escape out the hole, but you could shove a little screen or something down inside that brass fitting before installing it on the choke housing. That would help keep dirt and small spiders from crawling inside the choke housing.

[zuburg]

As I said in my previous post, there is no hot exhaust air going to the choke as the outlet tube normally going from the intake to the nipple on the bottom of the choke housing is not installed.



I guess to be more accurate, I plan to use an aftermarket electric thermostat (cap with spring) with the existing choke housing and levers. The supplier (Mike's Carburetors) suggested plugging the threaded nipple on the choke housing. I guess I will do my normal process of trying it both ways and see how it runs. I could also use a rubber cap used for plugging vacuum lines and poke a small hole in it. Would that allow enough vacuum draw?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by zuburg

I bought an electric choke from Mike’s Carburetors...

OK. Was what he provided a complete kit or just an electric element thermostat cap? Can you show the manufacturer and PN? Was there an instruction sheet with the kit?

HOLLEY make a brass cap and screen to keep Mothra and midget Japanese submarines from entering the choke housing for the H4150/4160.

Unless the kit provided is an exact application for the H4000 is the question (not that I am questioning MIKES as it is a quality act).

If the crossover tube (9890 on the ILL), doesn't leak exh gas while the engine is running, there is no need to cap screw it off. If it begins to leak, then you can block it off or replace it.

Please keep the board updated

No disrespect intended Sal ...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

The idea I had of just re-using the original brass fitting on the choke housing with the hole in it for the copper tube would be sufficient, because that little 1/4" diameter hole would allow some heat to escape out the hole, but you could shove a little screen or something down inside that brass fitting before installing it on the choke housing. That would help keep dirt and small spiders from crawling inside the choke housing.

The heated air is drawn into the choke housing by engine vacuum to heat the choke element. It is then ingested into the engine through the throttle body.

[zuburg]

Reply to Kultulz - I'll try to answer your questions. As you can tell from my earlier posts, I'm no expert but I will describe what I understand:


The reason I'm converting to an electric choke is I didn't learn about the heat tube that goes through the intake until after I assembled the entire engine including the carb, fuel lines, vacuum lines, and linkages. The reason was basically my fault for not researching how the 292 should have been assembled. I was just fixing the problems I found from the PO. Since the PO only had the automatic choke inlet tube attached to the grommet opening on the carb (and I didn't know what it was for) and not the outlet tube attached to the bottom of the choke, I only replaced the inlet tube. I didn't know about the outlet hole on the intake because the PO had a bolt inserted in the hole so I didn't know anything was supposed to go there.


I didn't want to take everything apart and remove the intake to try and remove the old heat tube and put in a new one. By the way, I determined the old heat tube was not usable by blowing through one side with my finger plugging the other side, and it didn't hold pressure.


So my solution plan is to delete the automatic choke by plugging both sides of the heat tube holes and convert to an electric choke.


I found a video on how to convert the original choke to an electric choke by Mike's Carburetors: https://youtu.be/rkJkCWhip4c
(it looks very easy, even for someone like me)


While they offer many different electric choke conversion kits, what they used in the video was just an electric thermostat that will work with the original choke. Here is a link to the thermostat used in the video: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/sea...keyword=th1034

Link to the general web site:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/


So here's the summary of my plan:


1. Plug both holes on the intake where the long heat tube is and discard both the inlet and outlet tubes
2. Plug the grommet hole on the front driver's side of carb (where inlet tube goes)
3. Install electric thermostat on choke as shown in video
4. Mike's suggested plugging the threaded nipple under the choke housing. In the video, he said he has sold several of these with good results. Fall back plan if it doesn't seem to work well is to open it back up.


I would describe the above as a way to eliminate the stock automatic choke and replace with an electric choke. If I ever have to remove the intake in the future, I would put in a new heat tube and put it back to the original choke.

12/9/2020
Added some pictures of the original choke and the replacement electric choke referenced above. The install was very easy and straight forward.

[scicala]

"No disrespect intended Sal ... "


No disrespect taken KULTULZ. Just a mis-understanding. When I do an electric choke cap conversion on any Holley carb, I always use a brass cap with a fine screen in it to keep out mothra and all his friends. It's amazing how insects get inside of carbs.

Sal

[KULTULZ]

Everything you are doing is fine. I understand not wanting to remove the intake. You can buy a brass cap to close that threaded inlet at HOME DEPOT plumbing aisle. HOLLEY used to offer one along with one that is open and has a wire mesh screen (to supply cooling air to some choke styles) to keep low flying condors out (it doesn't take much dirt to foul the choke mechanism).

FORD actually offered a service kit to supply heated air from the exhaust manifold to the choke in 1959 for the earlier Y. Guess they got tired of hearing customer complaints of cost to replace the cross-over tube.

Now Sal made a very good point on the vacuum inlet providing cooling air, but it has to be filtered. As what you have (only choke housing) is not a complete kit, you may have to play with it for awhile.

Any questions please ask the board freely as the modulator has no concern for spent bandwidth (meaning he hasn't banned me yet).

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by scicala

"No disrespect intended Sal ... "

No disrespect taken KULTULZ. Just a mis-understanding. When I do an electric choke cap conversion on any Holley carb, I always use a brass cap with a fine screen in it to keep out mothra and all his friends. It's amazing how insects get inside of carbs.

Sal

I fully understand your position and theory but you know how easily one will foul.