The Ford Barn

gdmn852 · 05-31-2021, 08:56 PM

Hello, does anyone know what master and wheel cylinders are used on this conversion? I believe this is what is on a Model A I recently bought and now trying to solve brake problems with it. Thank you.

Bob C · 05-31-2021, 10:14 PM

See if what you have looks like what is on their web site.
http://bolingbrothers.com/brake-kits-model-a/

700rpm · 05-31-2021, 11:11 PM

Oh, it’s Boling, not Boiling. I couldn’t figure out what the original question was!

gdmn852 · 06-01-2021, 06:14 AM

Hello again,either my mistake or spellcheck in title,The kit does look like what is on the car .Personally I would have rebuilt the mechanical system,at $3900 could change out about and part it has and it would be correct .But does anyone know the year and model cylinders are from? I would assume Ford or Lincoln as it uses 12 inch Lincoln drums.Thanks again.

gdmn852 · 06-01-2021, 08:07 AM

I see another post on brakes mentioned a 1953 Ford Truck master cylinder,from pictures of it looks to be the same should had 1 inch 1/16 bore .

Jim Brierley · 06-01-2021, 11:22 AM

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If your brakes look like the ones in the link, they are repros of 46-48 Lincoln, and the normal m/cyl. size is 1". 39-48 Ford brakes are the same 12" size, and same m/cyl. Lincolns are Bendix brakes with the adjuster at the bottom, adjusted with a brake spoon or screwdriver. Ford brakes are Wagner and have 2 rather large adjuster bolts on the back side of the brake assy., they need an 11/16" wrench to adjust. I recommend DOT 5 fluid as it repels water, so no rust-out of the cylinders.

GeneBob · 06-01-2021, 01:38 PM

Jim, you bring up a good point on the DOT 5 but beware. DOT 5 is silicone based so it attacks almost nothing, including your paint. It does, however, hold onto bubbles more than traditional brake fluid. So, when bleeding your brakes, do not get overly aggressive about pumping the brake pedal as you may foam the fluid. Slightly slower steady strokes helps. Once you have bubbles in the fluid, you will need time to let them coalesce to bleed them out.
BTW, if you spill traditional brake fluid on surfaces that you don't want damaged, immediately get water on it as the water mixes with the brake fluid and slows its attack on paint, rubber, whatever so you can remove it with more water. (Be careful not to get water into your brake system.)

V8COOPMAN · 06-01-2021, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdmn852

Hello, does anyone know what master and wheel cylinders are used on this conversion? I believe this is what is on a Model A I recently bought and now trying to solve brake problems with it. Thank you.

If you go to the "Boling Bros/MT" web site, toward the bottom of the left hand column is a section labeled as: "Brakes-Replacement Parts".

If you'll click on that, both front and rear replacement cylinders are shown with sizes noted, such as FRONTS...1-1/8". REARS...1" bore.

I was able to tentatively determine that ORIGINAL '39-'42 Zeps did use a 1-1/8" bore cylinder on the fronts, so a M/C choice for your repros would likely be the same as original.

As you MAY have noted, "Boling Bros/MT" does not supply a M/C with their kits. I was able to TENTATIVELY determine that original '39-'42 Lincoln Zeps used a 1-1/16" M/C, which is the SAME diameter as was stock on '39-'48 Ford passenger cars.

I wouldn't use "DOT 5" fluid in my coaster wagon. It "foams" (minute air bubbles) too easily. In fact, that is exactly why 'big three' types don't use DOT 5 in today's "anti-skid" brake systems. DD

Brakes-replacement parts

Bob C · 06-01-2021, 03:51 PM

The master cylinder they have for the Model A does use a 1 1/16" M/C.
http://www.bolingbrothers.com/model-...-box-assembly/

Jim Brierley · 06-02-2021, 12:27 PM

GeneBob, You bring up a good point, however I have never had a problem wit aeration. I worked for LAPD in the 70's when they converted from DOT-3 to DOT-5, we flushed out the -3 and put in -5, and also never had a problem. The result was a big savings in maintenance. Not affecting paint is another plus.

gdmn852 · 06-02-2021, 03:51 PM

Hello thank you for the replies, started to work on the Model A brakes,first thing I noticed that all the brakes had to be backed off on adjustment,they were rubbing on drums , the wheel cylinders didn’t seem to be leaking and moved freely ,Master cylinder also is good no leaks and holds pressure. Also checked related items wheel bearings seals etc.Car has a lot of work done on it.Reassembled ,reset the brakes correctly and road tested brakes working now without dragging I don’t think whoever set it up before did it correctly. As for the silicone brake fluid I use that in my 49 for a few years with success may change Model A over before winter. Thanks again Gary

05-31-2021, 08:56 PM	#1
gdmn852 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 691	Boiling hydraulic conversion Hello, does anyone know what master and wheel cylinders are used on this conversion? I believe this is what is on a Model A I recently bought and now trying to solve brake problems with it. Thank you.

05-31-2021, 10:14 PM	#2
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion See if what you have looks like what is on their web site. http://bolingbrothers.com/brake-kits-model-a/

05-31-2021, 11:11 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion Oh, it’s *Boling, not Boiling. I couldn’t figure out what the original question was! __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.*

06-01-2021, 06:14 AM	#4
gdmn852 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 691	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion Hello again,either my mistake or spellcheck in title,The kit does look like what is on the car .Personally I would have rebuilt the mechanical system,at $3900 could change out about and part it has and it would be correct .But does anyone know the year and model cylinders are from? I would assume Ford or Lincoln as it uses 12 inch Lincoln drums.Thanks again.

06-01-2021, 08:07 AM	#5
gdmn852 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 691	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion I see another post on brakes mentioned a 1953 Ford Truck master cylinder,from pictures of it looks to be the same should had 1 inch 1/16 bore .

06-01-2021, 11:22 AM	#6
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,085	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If your brakes look like the ones in the link, they are repros of 46-48 Lincoln, and the normal m/cyl. size is 1". 39-48 Ford brakes are the same 12" size, and same m/cyl. Lincolns are Bendix brakes with the adjuster at the bottom, adjusted with a brake spoon or screwdriver. Ford brakes are Wagner and have 2 rather large adjuster bolts on the back side of the brake assy., they need an 11/16" wrench to adjust. I recommend DOT 5 fluid as it repels water, so no rust-out of the cylinders.

06-01-2021, 01:38 PM	#7
GeneBob Senior Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Denver Area Posts: 433	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion Jim, you bring up a good point on the DOT 5 but beware. DOT 5 is silicone based so it attacks almost nothing, including your paint. It does, however, hold onto bubbles more than traditional brake fluid. So, when bleeding your brakes, do not get overly aggressive about pumping the brake pedal as you may foam the fluid. Slightly slower steady strokes helps. Once you have bubbles in the fluid, you will need time to let them coalesce to bleed them out. BTW, if you spill traditional brake fluid on surfaces that you don't want damaged, immediately get water on it as the water mixes with the brake fluid and slows its attack on paint, rubber, whatever so you can remove it with more water. (Be careful not to get water into your brake system.)

06-02-2021, 12:27 PM	#10
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,085	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion GeneBob, You bring up a good point, however I have never had a problem wit aeration. I worked for LAPD in the 70's when they converted from DOT-3 to DOT-5, we flushed out the -3 and put in -5, and also never had a problem. The result was a big savings in maintenance. Not affecting paint is another plus.

06-02-2021, 03:51 PM	#11
gdmn852 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Erie Pa Posts: 691	Re: Boiling hydraulic conversion Hello thank you for the replies, started to work on the Model A brakes,first thing I noticed that all the brakes had to be backed off on adjustment,they were rubbing on drums , the wheel cylinders didn’t seem to be leaking and moved freely ,Master cylinder also is good no leaks and holds pressure. Also checked related items wheel bearings seals etc.Car has a lot of work done on it.Reassembled ,reset the brakes correctly and road tested brakes working now without dragging I don’t think whoever set it up before did it correctly. As for the silicone brake fluid I use that in my 49 for a few years with success may change Model A over before winter. Thanks again Gary