Spraying POR

[wrndln]

I tried to search the old posts for POR, but the search engine must have a problem with POR as a search term, as it found nothing. I know POR has been in previous posts. Anyway I am thinking of using a product like POR to paint some engine pans. I believe POR will resist gasoline. Maybe there are other products like PPG Concept, which I use a lot for fenders and the like, that will resist gasoline. I just don't know if it will. That would be the easiest, as I already have black Concept. I want something that wont lift or stain when gasoline get on the engine pan like when the car is choked. If POR is a good product that resists gas, can it be sprayed with a regular HVLP spray gun? I sure don't want the POR to setup in the gun and ruin it. Spraying always gives a smoother finish than using a brush, so I don't want to brush it on. If someone else knows a better product, including Concept, please post your experience with the product.
Thanks
Rusty Nelson

[Mitch//pa]

Rusty Powder coat is a good option.. I'm sure you thought of that already

[wrndln]

Mitch, thanks for the suggestion, however I am using original engine pans and I will need to use a little filler on the pans to smooth them out. I have had some items like rims powder coated and even J-B Weld, which is suppose to be heat resistant to 400 or 500 degrees tends to deform when the powder coating was heated to cure. I even told the powdercoater not to use any higher heat than absolutely necessary. I am sure Rage Gold or other 2 part sheetmetal fillers would be even more prone to sagging or deforming.
Rusty Nelson

[Tom Wesenberg]

I used DP-90 primer and DCC 9000, about 10 years ago and the pans still look like new, except for the one I used a heavy copper wire to hang. The wire straightened out and the pan fell to the concrete. I was so disgusted I put it in the shed and still haven't got back to it.

[J Franklin]

I've sprayed POR and all went well, just clean the gun before and after. Any silicones will cause fisheyes. It won't set up in your gun like catalyzed product.

[harleytoprock]

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You will have to thin Por to spray. It seems to be a top secret for the type of thiner to use. Por is a moisture curing urethane so I used a universal type urethane reducer. Spray the first coat as a mist coat and let it get tacky before next medium wet coat. The mist coat helps prevent sags and runs. No rush to clean the gun.

[1crosscut]

I used the fuel proof spray paint in a can from Hobby Town on my engine pans. Stuff is tough as nails. Fuel has no effect on it and it looks good. I would think that you could use a filler type primer under it to fill any pits or imperfections.

[marc silva]

Por 15 likes to stick to rust. It will not stick to clean shiny metal good at all. I have never tried it over sanded undercoat/primer, not sure how that would work. Also it has a long "open" time meaning it stays sticky for a long time which allows junk floating around in the air to get stuck in the paint which doesn't look too good. I would use a good quality catalyzed urethane and let it cure for a good long time....days at the least, if not weeks, the longer the better. outside in the sun works very well to pull all the solvents out and get a good cure. Its not really good to let fuel sit on ANY paint for an extended period of time. JMO.

[wrndln]

Thanks to all that posted a response. It appears PPG Concept would resist gasoline. Since I have the PPG paint I might spray some small item and put it in some gas and see how it holds up, before using it on the engine pans.
Rusty Nelson

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by wrndln

I tried to search the old posts for POR, but the search engine must have a problem with POR as a search term, as it found nothing. I know POR has been in previous posts..............
Rusty Nelson

Rusty, probably one of the biggest problems with the search function is that it doesn't recognize any words/terms that contain less than 4 characters. The most obvious problem this causes is when you're doing a search for anything by year - so if you're looking in the classifieds for instance, nothing will come up if listed or searched for using 28, 29, etc. - only searches (and listings) using 1928, 1929, etc. will work. There are no doubt a lot of people who apparently don't realize this and continue to use the shortened versions, which can really limit the usefulness of the search function when searching for year-specific items or threads. In the case of POR, not much can be done, but in the case of year specific items/threads if everyone would not abbreviate the years the search function would be a lot more functional.

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

After "experimenting" with POR-15 for over 20 years, in unheard of different methods, it is advised to please read all POR-15 Warnings and all detailed Instructions prior to opening POR-15 cans.

If spraying POR-15, the last thing one would want to do is to accidently inhale chemically prepared POR-15 mist.

Unlike paint, after opening a POR-15 can, one needs to cover the can with a material like Saran-Wrap prior to replacing the lid ...... if not, wet POR-15 on the can and wet POR-15 on the lid will make contact, and when dry, it will be stronger than the strongest epoxy glue .... the metal lid will not come off of the can undamaged without a Saran Wrap separation.

POR-15 makes their own thinner for thinning POR-15 prior to spraying and also used to clean up "only"; however, "wet" POR-15 Thinner will not remove "dry" POR-15.

If POR-15 get on your hands without gloves and dries, either be content with painted hands for a few months, or peel all of the skin off of your hands, or cut your hands off ..... no gloves is never recommended ..... overhead use ..... hat and eye protection .... a dried brush or a wad of human hair with cured, dry POR-15 is so tough, it is difficult to cut with a hack saw.

One layer of POR-15 on metal is almost as hard as the metal. It will require a side grinder, emery wheel, or electrical wire wheel to remove it when dry and cured.

Drying time is usually fairly quick, but is regulated by "both" the "combined" temperature and humidity in the area where it is used. If one lives in a humid climate, never a bad idea to determine the relative humidity "and" temperature prior to use and just as important, prior to applying the recommended second coat on top of a semi-cured coat.

Many coastal areas have too high a humidity to use POR-15 before about 10 a.m. and after about 4:30 p.m.

Ninety-nine percent of POR-15 success is accomplished by cleaning "only" with POR-15 Marine Clean, followed by "only" POR-15 Metal Prep or POR-15 Prep & Ready, all in "strict" accordance with POR-15 detailed instructions.

Ninety-nine percent of all POR-15 failures are caused by experienced, professional painters who have used "paint" for over 30 years and "think" POR-15 is "paint" ..... after coating failure, they curse and curse and never use it again ........ POR-15 is a high-tech chemical "coating" very much unlike "paint".

If exposed to sunlight, (ultra-violet rays), it will fade; hence for appearance, it needs several of the recommended POR-15 Top-Coats. POR-15 also make Ty-Coat-Primer for top coating with other POR-15 products "or" regular paint.

If one has pin holes in sheet metal, one can provide duct tape on the back-side and very effectively fill sheet metal pin holes with POR-15 ...... remove duct tape when dry.

Just hope this helps one to remember to read all directions ..... great product for people who can follow instructions to the letter.

[wrndln]

Randy,
Thanks for the "search" information. I knew there was a problem with the search for smaller terms, but your explanation explains it well. Thanks for the helpful information.

H.L., Thank you for the detailed information about POR. I have used it a little on small things (brushed on). I did get some on my hands once and totally understand how it stays on for a long time. After hearing more about POR, I am probably going to go with PPG Concept, but test it for gasoline resistance on something smaller than engine pans before using it to paint the pans.
Rusty Nelson

[Karl Wescott]

POR products are a urethane. The isocyanate in uncured urethanes is a sensitizing allergen, in addition there are other toxic products in the mix. The problem is that before becoming sensitized exposure to small to moderate amounts of isocyanates your body handles it as no big deal. However at some point people become sensitized and even a tiny exposure becomes a life threatening event.

If you are going to spray any urethane have the right safety equipment to protect you (a supplied air full suit) and the right stuff to protect your family and neighbors (spray booth with good filters or burner).

If you are going to brush or dip urethanes then wear gloves and proper clothes to keep splash off your skin. At normal temperatures the isocyanates do not evaporate and become airborne.

Once cured (hardened), all the isocyanates are used in the chemical reaction and are no longer present to be a hazard.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Rusty,

I always buy the 6 pack of small cans and brush it on. I open the can, use a plastic spoon to spoon out a little in a small plastic cup, cover can with Saran wrap, and "immediately" close the can .... with rubber gloves on. LOL

The top surface of liquid POR-15 will harden quickly if exposed to humid air in an "open" can ..... best to quickly spoon out what is needed & close can immediately.

Even though not written, nor recommended, (for brush work ....... always recommended for spraying), for brush work, I always thin POR-15 with about 10% POR-15 thinner because of our high humidity. As such, with Dollar Store $1.00 brushes it leaves absolutely no brush marks ....... resembles sprayed on ...... rather than clean brushes, I use $1.00 brushes only once and discard same.

I cleaned an engine, head, flywheel cover, transmission case etc. with POR-15 Marine Clean mixed with hot tap water, applied POR- 15 Prep, and even though not recommended, applied POR-15 prior to applying POR-15 engine enamel 20 years ago ...... still looks new ....... this coating will definitely outlast Michelangelo's paint on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel ....... painted my entire undercarriage, chassis, under side of fenders, backing plates, brake rods, springs, metal pans, etc., etc. ....... such a pain to clean old grease, remove multiple layers of old paint plus grease in between layers of paint. and prepare for paint ..... makes sense to do it once to outlast your great-great-grandchildren.

Rustoleum in our humid area combined with heavy condensation on metal last about as long as painting with water based Latex Paint mixed with ice cream salt.