The Ford Barn

vern hodgson · 03-11-2021, 01:24 AM

Working on my tailite began to notice an odd smell, was tired and called it a day, disconnected battery. Next morning,, returned to scene of the crime. Again odd smell, discovered repop tail lite switch shaft had became stuck inside housing and was getting quite hot. Is this a common problem, why is it happening, any comments or corrections?

TerryH · 03-11-2021, 01:53 AM

I recommend you get a switch made by A&L.....they use a bronze bushing that won’t stick, and recommend by Tom Endy here. We put one in my A 15 years ago and it has never stuck.

Tom Endy · 03-11-2021, 02:14 AM

A&L now only sells wholesale. Bratton's carry the A&L stoplight switch and they are good quality with bushings ay each end.

Tom Endy

Patrick L. · 03-11-2021, 07:40 AM

Are you talking of the tail light switch or brake light switch ?

vern hodgson · 03-11-2021, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Are you talking of the tail light switch or brake light switch ?

Brake, I cannot imagine why something so simple can be made so crappy.

Ernie Vitucci · 03-11-2021, 11:03 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Simple answer...Some people insist on thinking that the cheep part is just as good as the more expensive part...never happens in the real world...Ernie in Arizona

Patrick L. · 03-11-2021, 12:50 PM

Yep, it is pretty simple and can usually be fixed easily.

But the better made one works and seems to last.

Benson · 03-11-2021, 02:08 PM

never mind...

Patrick L. · 03-11-2021, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

never mind...

Emily Litella couldn't have said it better.

Doug Linden · 03-11-2021, 09:17 PM

As Tom Endy said, you can't get a better new one than the A&L made in the USA switch.

Benson · 03-11-2021, 09:30 PM

I have known for a long time about the 30 -31 switch that A&L is making.

Do they make a 28 29 switch with bronze bushings?

bobbader · 03-12-2021, 08:10 PM

Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.)

Good luck,

Bob Bader

vern hodgson · 03-13-2021, 01:30 AM

[QUOTE=bobbader;1995482]Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.)

Exactly the problem, would an original switch have the same problem? Yes I have considered the welding of an extension. Thanks for the tip.

Russ/40 · 03-13-2021, 11:45 AM

bobbader defines the problem perfectly. Here is my solution:
I thread the rear end of the rod in the switch. I then double nut the very end of the rod so it cannot be pulled into the switch body, where it can become trapped. I then put a spring in line at the front of the switch. This allows the rod to be pulled forward, enough to make the brake switch work, but prevents the rod from being pulled into the switch, even as the brake pedal continues downward. Experiment with springs to get the proper tension. Works great with lasting result, even between brake adjustments.

Benson · 03-13-2021, 12:01 PM

There are 2 or 3 different companies making 28-29 switches.

Berts sells the one which does not have this problem. $11.00

No fiddling around it just works.

Also sells the 30-31 switch from A&L.

https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0

This is why I like to buy from Bert's.

When Steve sees a problem he gets his supplier to fix the problem as he did in this case.

vern hodgson · 03-13-2021, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ/40

bobbader defines the problem perfectly. Here is my solution:
I thread the rear end of the rod in the switch. I then double nut the very end of the rod so it cannot be pulled into the switch body, where it can become trapped. I then put a spring in line at the front of the switch. This allows the rod to be pulled forward, enough to make the brake switch work, but prevents the rod from being pulled into the switch, even as the brake pedal continues downward. Experiment with springs to get the proper tension. Works great with lasting result, even between brake adjustments.

Good idea, I now have in hand an original switch which actually has a hole thru the shaft as if to nstall a cotter pin. Any one see this on any other original switches?

03-11-2021, 01:24 AM	#1
vern hodgson Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: langley, wa. Posts: 642	Tail lite switch Working on my tailite began to notice an odd smell, was tired and called it a day, disconnected battery. Next morning,, returned to scene of the crime. Again odd smell, discovered repop tail lite switch shaft had became stuck inside housing and was getting quite hot. Is this a common problem, why is it happening, any comments or corrections?

03-11-2021, 01:53 AM	#2
TerryH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fountain Valley, Calif. Posts: 937	Re: Tail lite switch I recommend you get a switch made by A&L.....they use a bronze bushing that won’t stick, and recommend by Tom Endy here. We put one in my A 15 years ago and it has never stuck.

03-11-2021, 02:14 AM	#3
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Tail lite switch A&L now only sells wholesale. Bratton's carry the A&L stoplight switch and they are good quality with bushings ay each end. Tom Endy

03-11-2021, 07:40 AM	#4
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Tail lite switch Are you talking of the tail light switch or brake light switch ?

03-11-2021, 11:03 AM	#6
Ernie Vitucci Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona Posts: 611	Re: Tail lite switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Simple answer...Some people insist on thinking that the cheep part is just as good as the more expensive part...never happens in the real world...Ernie in Arizona

03-11-2021, 12:50 PM	#7
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Tail lite switch Yep, it is pretty simple and can usually be fixed easily. But the better made one works and seems to last.

03-11-2021, 02:08 PM	#8
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,594	Re: Tail lite switch never mind... Last edited by Benson; 03-11-2021 at 02:21 PM.

03-11-2021, 09:17 PM	#10
Doug Linden Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 259	Re: Tail lite switch As Tom Endy said, you can't get a better new one than the A&L made in the USA switch.

03-11-2021, 09:30 PM	#11
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,594	Re: Tail lite switch I have known for a long time about the 30 -31 switch that A&L is making. Do they make a 28 29 switch with bronze bushings?

03-12-2021, 08:10 PM	#12
bobbader Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, NY Posts: 269	Re: Tail lite switch Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.) Good luck, Bob Bader

03-13-2021, 01:30 AM	#13
vern hodgson Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: langley, wa. Posts: 642	Re: Tail lite switch [QUOTE=bobbader;1995482]Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.) Exactly the problem, would an original switch have the same problem? Yes I have considered the welding of an extension. Thanks for the tip.

03-13-2021, 11:45 AM	#14
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Tail lite switch bobbader defines the problem perfectly. Here is my solution: I thread the rear end of the rod in the switch. I then double nut the very end of the rod so it cannot be pulled into the switch body, where it can become trapped. I then put a spring in line at the front of the switch. This allows the rod to be pulled forward, enough to make the brake switch work, but prevents the rod from being pulled into the switch, even as the brake pedal continues downward. Experiment with springs to get the proper tension. Works great with lasting result, even between brake adjustments.

03-13-2021, 12:01 PM	#15
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,594	Re: Tail lite switch There are 2 or 3 different companies making 28-29 switches. Berts sells the one which does not have this problem. $11.00 No fiddling around it just works. Also sells the 30-31 switch from A&L. https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0 This is why I like to buy from Bert's. When Steve sees a problem he gets his supplier to fix the problem as he did in this case. Last edited by Benson; 03-13-2021 at 12:07 PM.