how to time a '49 8ba

[CSArno]

can someone give me the details on timing a 49 8ba. i havent used a timing light since highschool shop class 25+ years ago.. i know where the timing marks are on the crank pulley and how to adjust the distributor. i usually time by ear but want to see how close my ear is..
im assuming the timing light clamps on #1. is the timing adjusted 2 degrees before top dead center on #1?

thanks,
chris

[40cpe]

You are correct on the process. The "bump" on the pulley is 2 degrees advanced. You can adjust from there to your preference.

[JSeery]

If your referring to setting the adjustment on the timing light at 2 degrees, no. The 2 degrees is built into the pulley and timing mark on the cover. You would only use the adjustment on the gun if you were using a TDC mark on the pulley. For the stock arrangement you want the gun set at "0".

[Ol' Ron]

And the vac disconnected.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Chris, make sure the vacuum advance is working, half the time those old diaphram have a hole in them and won't advance, those dist don't have a mechanical advance weights. Those were poor dist but work well with stock engines. Walt

[Blu Dice]

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I use a vacuum gauge - can't always trust those marks.

[19Fordy]

Chris, Here's some good info. Read it all including the attachments.. Be sure and plug the port opening on the carb when you disconnect the distributer line from the carb.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...ng-issues.html
How to time flathead v-8 49-53.

[CSArno]

Thank you all for the help.
I'll go at it tomorrow.

[Init1]

Make sure the notch in crank pulley is on the pin on the timing cover and the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap. Even now it can be 180 degrees out
So check it twice.
If it backfires out the carb it's out. Pull the distributor and rotate It so the rotor points to#1 on the cap and try to start it again.

[JSeery]

Might be better to install the distributor with the engine in the correct position in the first place! Rotate the engine until the number on cylinder in on it's compression stroke. Remove the plug and check for compression with your thumb is over the spark plug hole while someone slowly turns the engine over. When you feel compression it is on the compression stroke. Line up the timing marks on the crank pulley and install the distributor so that the rotor is just getting to the number one plug post on the distributor cap. Easier if you mark the number one position on the distributor so you know where it is with the cap removed. The rotor will rotate as the distributor go in, so allow for the rotation.

[CSArno]

Thank you guys. I think I'm closer than 180 degrees off. The engine is running. I drove the truck around my field yesterday. Except for when it stalled and upon restarting it blew the the oil breather cap off, it ran pretty decent for not running in 14 years and the motor being stuck.
The hood was off so I got some good distance with the breather cap...

[FortyNiner]

If you are 180 off, driving hasn't been possible in my experience. Might want to check your plug wires against the fiing order.

[40cpe]

I can't imagine any timing conditions that would create an explosion in the crankcase. If ignition occurs when a valve is open, the combustion should go out the exhaust or intake. I would be concerned with fuel in the crankcase. Maybe check the fuel pump?

[CSArno]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

I can't imagine any timing conditions that would create an explosion in the crankcase. If ignition occurs when a valve is open, the combustion should go out the exhaust or intake. I would be concerned with fuel in the crankcase. Maybe check the fuel pump?

I don't think I have any big timing issues, the engine runs super but it was stuck when I got it last week and hasn't run in 14 years. It blew the breather cap off again today when I started it. Damn near stuck it in the 5/8 sheetrock on the garage ceiling. Blew the dipstick out also. My first thought was a stuck piston ring but the engine doesn't have a rattle in it when running. The fuel pump is fairly new I believe. I will investigate if the fuel pump is leaking into the base further.

[old guy rich]

My guess would be gas in the oil pan. I had one do that back in the sixties, only it was a 406 with 6 two's. Blew the oil filler cap off and bent the valve covers up. old guy

[Capt Kirk]

If the breather cap and dip stick are blowing out...there's fuel in the crankcase. Have you changed the oil after sitting for so long? Have you checked the compression? Leaky carb and rings not quite seated again? Hole in a piston? A compression test and hooking a vacuum gauge to the thing will go a long way to answering your questions.