Gas Gauge float

[HalcyonDays]

I purchased a new non cork float for my gas gauge. It is going on late '31 tank. This is the second tank I have installed this new style float. In both cases the float was longer than the wire in the gauge. In the first tank I cut the new style float down to the size of the wire. Not that easy as the new float has a form or sealer on its outside and when you cut it the newly exposed side does not have that sealer. The float also has a very strong odor, not pleasant. I did this a couple of years ago and it seems to be holding up fine. This time I decided to cut a slit in the side of the float that would allow the gauge wire to side further in, this method seems less invasive. My first question is whether anyone else has run into this problem and how did thy address the issue?


Second question is how to attach the float to the gauge wire? The float kit does not come with the washer used to attach the float on wire. I am using the washer from the old cork float. My problem is I cannot seem to squeeze the wire enough to keep the washer in place. I don't remember having this problem before. Am I missing something? How does the washer stay in place to hold the float on the gauge wire?


Any thoughts would be great

[Brentwood Bob]

Solder?

[5lugnuts]

Put the float in place on the wire as you did. Put the washer in place as you have done. Then find a way to position the end of the wire tip on a steel surface so you can use a screwdriver and hammer to make a slight oval shape out of the round wire tip that extends beyond the washer. Be careful not to smash the float.

[Big hammer]

Use a push nut !

[HalcyonDays]

Thank you for all of the advice. I ended up holding the assembled gauge float and washer in a bench vise, and was able to crimp enough to hold the washer on. The way I recessed the wire into the float made it difficult to peen over the end.



I am curious if anyone else has run into the situation where the float is too long? In both gauges that I have done, it is a good 1/4" to 1/2" longer than the cork float I am replacing.

[JayJay]

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Originally Posted by HalcyonDays

I am curious if anyone else has run into the situation where the float is too long? In both gauges that I have done, it is a good 1/4" to 1/2" longer than the cork float I am replacing.

Yes, I ran into that on the first two I did. I cut down the floats with a razor blade. The one I did last week I put one of Mike's brass floats, that attaches to the bend in the wire and the length of the float isn't an issue.

JayJay

[john charlton]

I cut the float and squeeze the end in the vise . The wire is hard so needs force to flatten the end .

John in sunny morning Suffolk County England

[History]

My wire was also short, I soldered the washer on and it works great.

[RDVAARK]

Without the float on the wire, heat the last 1/2" or so of the wire to red hot in a flame, air cool. This will anneal it to allow end of the wire to be flattened against a steel edge with a hammer or another edged object (like a dull chisel).

Short leg of wire can be heated and cooled at the right angle and straightened. Position float as desired. Mark, heat and anneal wire and bend as appropriate, then treat tip as in paragraph above.

Length of arm will be shortened, probably about half an inch. Calibrate to please yourself. Level wire reads 1/2 tank. Or, wire fully down reads as empty as you want it,
I prefer to be accurate at the 1/2 mark, leaving a slight reserve (experience teaches me how far I can go at empty).

1/2" wire length decrease decreases vertical float travel (3.14x D=C, less actually). Tank can be more full, or more empty at ends of float travel, but at 1/2 full, float travel most accurately reflects fuel level. In my 28 tudor, 1" level change is close to a gallon at 1`/2"gauge.

Attempt at mild humor: Details such as exact red color of annealing wire, flame color and fuel mixture. cooling time in room temp still air, and exact bend radii of wire, will be given in my next rivet counting report. YMMV.

Oh yes, do not touch hot wire with hands or float.

[CT Jack]

Simple solution: Attach the float to the wire using 5 minute epoxy (not JB Weld). Scuff the wire and coat with epoxy, then slide the float on wire. Wrap and twist a piece of copper at end of float before the epoxy cures. Epoxy is completely compatible with gasoline.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Use a push nut !

Ditto

[Dallas]

Why not JB Weld?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by RDVAARK

I prefer to be accurate at the 1/2 mark, leaving a slight reserve (experience teaches me how far I can go at empty).

I set mine so that with one gallon left in the tank the float is bouncing on E. I find that it's pretty much accurate above that. At 1/4 there's a bit less than 3 gallons, that's when I start looking seriously for a gas station. On our club tours we plan on fuel stops every 100 miles or so - optional bladder breaks at half that distance.

JayJay

[whiskeyb]

I shortened the cork float with hack saw. Made a very thin washer using a piece of model a spark plug wire, punched a hole in it with a finish nail, and flattened the end of the wire.

[Ivan in southeast va.]

I "adjusted" the float and bent the wire to hold the float. Works fine!

[Thix]

I didn't cut my float, I soldered a piece of wire to extend what was there and just bent the extra up the side of the float end.

[Thix]

I left float full length and soldered a small piece of wire to what was already there. Then just bent excess wire up the end of the float to hold it on.

[katy]

What size is the hole in the new "non-cork" floats?

[al's28/33]

I installed the brass float about 10 years ago and it has a short sleeve that can be bent over the arm of the wire to keep it in place. No issues.

[Jerry in Shasta]

I used Tillotson float takes some fiddling , but last for yeas