Vintage Precision thermostat housing

[Smooth_One]

I just got my thermostat housing from Casey at Vintage Precision.
I’ll take some pictures when I get it installed and give a review after running it for a few weeks.

[Herb Concord Ca]

You will love it! I have this housing on both of my A's. Check the 2 plugs for a temperature gauge, to make sure they have thread sealant on them. Casey is the son of the designer. You'll be surprised how fast the motor comes up to temperature.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

You will love it! I have this housing on both of my A's. Check the 2 plugs for a temperature gauge, to make sure they have thread sealant on them. Casey is the son of the designer. You'll be surprised how fast the motor comes up to temperature.

Oh good! I’m sure it will work great. My car does take forever, even here in Florida.

[copgib]

I have the same item. Works great and I am sure you will love it! Hugh

[verdirick]

guys, I have been running one on all 4 of my A's for years. Quality after market unit... Henry probably would have used one had they been available..

[ryanheacox]

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Always liked the look of those, seems like a high quality item. Will you be plumbing in a bypass hose?

[CarlG]

I have been running one of these for quite a few years. I have a temp gauge on the small port, and use the larger one to feed my heater.

[Benson]

One thing to remember when replacing the Thermostat is that V P uses the Stant manufactured "SuperStat".

The "SuperStat" is a different animal from the standard Stant Thermostat and other brands and is the reason for the way this product works in the Model A!

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Benson

One thing to remember when replacing the Thermostat is that V P uses the Stant manufactured "Super Stat".

The "Super Stat" is a different animal from the standard Stant Thermostat and other brands and is the reason for the way this product works in the Model A!

Sooooo, What is different about it? I have successfully used other thermostats there and have had no problems.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Sooooo, What is different about it? I have successfully used other thermostats there and have had no problems.

The Stant Superstat is designed to reduce cycling. I personally have not used one so can not attest to that.
I use a regular thermostat in the top hose and it works fine. Once open the temperature stays at ~165-170°F most of the time. No cycling.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by ryanheacox

Always liked the look of those, seems like a high quality item. Will you be plumbing in a bypass hose?

I will see how it runs just by it self first but I am definitely considering it.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Benson

One thing to remember when replacing the Thermostat is that V P uses the Stant manufactured "Super Stat".

The "Super Stat" is a different animal from the standard Stant Thermostat and other brands and is the reason for the way this product works in the Model A!

Thank you for the info! I did not know that but will keep an eye on it when installed.

[Smooth_One]

I just ordered a 2 blade Aluminum fan and Super Leakless pump From Bert’s for the engine as well. I have the 4 blade aftermarket right now but you guys talked me into going back to the 2 blade instead.
I’m no Scientist but a couple of you on here said that the blades are angled just right on those and they push plenty of air as they are

[Smooth_One]

The car will be at the Billetproof Florida show at Don Garlits shop next month and she should be happy and running just right by then!

[Benson]

Here is explanation of how SuperStat is different.


http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...at-thermostat/

[Werner]

Hello,


is this intruduced one better than a tube-thermostat? If, why?

[Joe K]

What? No broken ears to contend with?

How can one be a Model A owner and not broken his ears?

Kidding of course. Ford design was a "work in progress" as evidenced by the three bolt Model B water-pump.

Joe K

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Joe K

What? No broken ears to contend with?

How can one be a Model A owner and not broken his ears?

Kidding of course. Ford design was a "work in progress" as evidenced by the three bolt Model B water-pump.

Joe K

Less broken = more happy driving hours! Ha ha

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Werner

Hello,


is this intruduced one better than a tube-thermostat? If, why?

Thanks for posting this link! Very informative WERNER.

[Benson]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

Thanks for posting this link! Very informative WERNER.

Please tell me where I can find the link that Werner posted?

I do not see a link on Werner's post ...

Did I miss something?

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Benson

Please tell me where I can find the link that Werner posted?

I do not see a link on Werner's post ...

Did I miss something?

http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...at-thermostat/

[Benson]

Ok thanks...
I STILL do not see a link in Werner's post #16 …

The link that YOU posted in post 21 is the link that I posted in post 15. ... Thought that I missed some info I did not know about

[Pete from OZ]

Is there a Gasket used between the Housing and Head, Or do you just use a Sealant. Thanks

[AL in NY]

Just sealant works best and you don't have to worry about breaking an ear off your new thermostat housing.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Pete from OZ

Is there a Gasket used between the Housing and Head, Or do you just use a Sealant. Thanks

Yes Casey from Vintage Precision said to just use RVT or equivalent. No gasket.

[Smooth_One]

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Radiator out. Shaft of the water pump was really loose so I’m glad I caught that.

[Smooth_One]

Out in the garage last night til after midnight.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Hi Smooth One

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

Out in the garage last night til after midnight.


From what I can see in the pictures your cooling system is really clean.


What do you use for coolant?


Was the cooling system recently flushed with, if yes with what method (Water, Vinegar, thermocure, etc)?

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Hi Smooth One

I recently flushed it with CLR and Vinegar, poured both in and let it run at just above idle for about 30 mins then let it sit overnight then drained everything out and flushed with water.
I’m running Green coolant 50/50 with distilled water and a bottle of Redline water wetter additive.
I spent an hour and a half cleaning the gasket surfaces last night.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

I recently flushed it with CLR and Vinegar, poured both in and let it run at just above idle for about 30 mins then let it sit overnight then drained everything out and flushed with water.
I’m running Green coolant 50/50 with distilled water and a bottle of Redline water wetter additive.
I spent an hour and a half cleaning the gasket surfaces last night.

Thanks for the info, 1st I've heard of mixing CLR and Vinegar. Seems running anti freeze/redline and using your flush concoction works well.


Am interested, a new Bergs is going on mine, want to protect the investment.

[Smooth_One]

Such a nice piece!!

[Smooth_One]

I should have the cooling system back together by the weekend so I'll keep you guys updated with pictures and running status.
I talked to Steve at Bert's and he said they all run these pumps in they're cars and have NEVER had an impeller come loose, because I called him and asked if i should drill/pin or spot weld it and he said no and assured it won't move. So I'll run it as is.
He said put it on, put a small bit of grease in the REAR Zerks fitting and let'er rip!

[Smooth_One]

Going back together.

[37 Coupe]

I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.

I believe it is just Heat Treated stainless steel.
I think what you’re seeing is an anti-corrosion coating I’m guessing. I can call them tomorrow and ask.

[Smooth_One]

The pump it self feels a bit heavier And at least the one I received looks a little bit thicker all the way around the casting.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Your first picture in #33 shows that you have a Canadian Powerhouse generator. Usually only see them on cars near the Canadian border or Model A's that Canada sent overseas.

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by Joe K

What? No broken ears to contend with?

How can one be a Model A owner and not broken his ears?

Kidding of course. Ford design was a "work in progress" as evidenced by the three bolt Model B water-pump.

Joe K

Ford engineering noted a number of improvements needed for the original A engine as the A was produced,but Ford held them till the B engine was introduced.Most noticeable was the main bearing issue,Ford engineers knew of the A engine weakness of the crankshaft and the propensity for center main bearing failure during engine development.The issue wasn't addressed till 1932,with the B engines bigger main bearing journals and pressure lubrication.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Your first picture in #33 shows that you have a Canadian Powerhouse generator. Usually only see them on cars near the Canadian border or Model A's that Canada sent overseas.

Tom yes the engine number starts with CA so it is Canadian.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.

Wasn't the problem you had with the new water pump actually your modified head? I'm sure the pump Brattons sold you was as good as anyone else sells.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Wasn't the problem you had with the new water pump actually your modified head? I'm sure the pump Brattons sold you was as good as anyone else sells.

I found out this morning it was the head that was the problem.I posted this statement last night.This morning I called up Bratton's and talked to Jared and told him it was an issue on this end and not Bratton's.

[Smooth_One]

Almost back together.

[Smooth_One]

I ran the car for about 40 minutes last night in my driveway at probably 1200 RPMs and no leaks and no problems. That two blade fan feels like it is pushing way more air than the four blade for sure.
By the way I do not much care for the original hose clamps anymore, I cleaned the inside of the hoses and made sure they were as straight as I could get them and put the clamps in the best spot I could find and the lower hose was leaking just a bit and the hose clamp was as tight as I could get it without stripping the bolt. So I went to the auto parts and purchased some stainless clamps that are made in USA, put them on and no more leaks.
I will be switching the upper hose clamps tonight as well.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

I ran the car for about 40 minutes last night in my driveway at probably 1200 RPMs and no leaks and no problems. That two blade fan feels like it is pushing way more air than the four blade for sure.
By the way I do not much care for the original hose clamps anymore, I cleaned the inside of the hoses and made sure they were as straight as I could get them and put the clamps in the best spot I could find and the lower hose was leaking just a bit and the hose clamp was as tight as I could get it without stripping the bolt. So I went to the auto parts and purchased some stainless clamps that are made in USA, put them on and no more leaks.
I will be switching the upper hose clamps tonight as well.

Those original style hose clamps are rubbish, no matter where they are made. I also use stainless worm drive hose clamps - made in Australia (my car is a driver, not a show-er).