Installed battery cutoff switch today.

[Smooth_One]

I finally had some spare time to put in the battery cutoff switch in the Tudor today.
Came out pretty good I thought.
I mounted it on the bottom starter bolt with the Snyder’s bracket then ran one wire to a ground on the frame where the battery tray mounts, then ran another wire to the positive terminal on the battery. Let me know what you guys think. I’ll try and post some pictures.

[Smooth_One]

[Smooth_One]

Also I nixxed the original ground strap below the drivers seat because it won’t be used anymore.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

An o.k. installation, but being under the hood makes it inaccessible in an emergency. It also means you won't use it regularly. A better installation would have the switch where it can be used from inside the car.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by BillLee/Chandler, TX

An o.k. installation, but being under the hood makes it inaccessible in an emergency. It also means you won't use it regularly. A better installation would have the switch where it can be used from inside the car.

I really did give it some thought and it was too tight where I wanted to mount it under the seat. Plus I didn’t want to cut any holes in my original wood so that helped me make my decision.
As far as thinking under the hood is a bad spot for it, the only time I’d have to kill the power in an emergency in my mind is when I’m under the hood working on something anyways so that works for me.
I used all 4 gauge wiring and heat shrunk and tie wrapped and I’m going put corrugated wire protection around the tight spots. Or anywhere even close to touching any other metal that could chafe the wire.

[Smooth_One]

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Another reason I mounted it where I did is so (as many others have said on here) I can check the oil and give the engine a once over before every trip.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by BillLee/Chandler, TX

An o.k. installation, but being under the hood makes it inaccessible in an emergency. It also means you won't use it regularly. A better installation would have the switch where it can be used from inside the car.

Bill where is yours mounted?

[Bruce of MN]

My ‘31 Coupe:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...06&postcount=7

[divcoone]

What gauge wire did you Use?

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

My ‘31 Coupe:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...06&postcount=7

Looks good. My car is in excellent original condition as is yours as it looked so i didn't want to cut or drill a hole anywhere.
I was thinking about enlarging the hole on the vertical cross brace that the floorboard sits on but it would have been a tight fit next to the battery.
I did what I thought would work best for me.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

Bill where is yours mounted?

Mine is mounted under the floor on a bracket I made from 1/8" aluminum, screwed to the bottom of the wood cross piece. I then made an extension to the shaft where the handle mounts so that the handle is just above the level of the carpet under the front edge of the seat. Yes, a hole drilled through the wood floorboard behind the steel cross member. Very unobtrusive and easily accessed.



With the switch there, I can easily disconnect the entire system from the battery (which I do as I exit the car).



Problems of concern that the switch being easily accessible address:


* A stuck starter switch ( have seen happen).
* Stuck brake light switch.
* Reverse drain through alternator when not running.
* Short behind the dash panel.
* Theft prevention.
* Forgotten headlights or turn signals.



(I'm sure there are others, I invite contributions. :-) )


Edit to add a picture showing the switch through floor board, no carpets installed at that time.

[Patrick L.]

I don't want to criticize, but, I think the wire is a bit light. I think #2 should be the minimum, [the heavier the better]. I too prefer the switch mounted inside or where it can be reached easily. But, thats just an opinion.

[jboggess]

Looks good, nice job on the install.

[Badpuppy]

Contact area between frame and lug should be clean and bright. Antioxidant compound between them will prevent corrosion.

[Bob C]

Like mentioned before #4 is to small for 6V, Bratton's sells a #1 or use 0 or 00 welding cable.
https://www.brattons.com/electrical-...tch-cable.html


Bob

[Russ/40]

The amount and length of your cabling makes the gauge of 4, potentially more problematic. In the end, you will do it your way, but, you did ask for opinions.

[Ian in Mississauga]

A choke cable or maybe a bicycle hand brake cable will allow you to turn off power from inside the car. See the thread started by Doug Nichols on mar. 21 2018.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by divcoone

What gauge wire did you Use?

I used 4 gauge wire for everything.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by BillLee/Chandler, TX

Mine is mounted under the floor on a bracket I made from 1/8" aluminum, screwed to the bottom of the wood cross piece. I then made an extension to the shaft where the handle mounts so that the handle is just above the level of the carpet under the front edge of the seat. Yes, a hole drilled through the wood floorboard behind the steel cross member. Very unobtrusive and easily accessed.



With the switch there, I can easily disconnect the entire system from the battery (which I do as I exit the car).



Problems of concern that the switch being easily accessible address:


* A stuck starter switch ( have seen happen).
* Stuck brake light switch.
* Reverse drain through alternator when not running.
* Short behind the dash panel.
* Theft prevention.
* Forgotten headlights or turn signals.



(I'm sure there are others, I invite contributions. :-) )


Edit to add a picture showing the switch through floor board, no carpets installed at that time.

Looks good! I might move mine there after trying mine out for a bit.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by jboggess

Looks good, nice job on the install.

Thank you!

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

The amount and length of your cabling makes the gauge of 4, potentially more problematic. In the end, you will do it your way, but, you did ask for opinions.

Do you think the 4 gauge cable would get warm after a while or your just talking about low amps for the size?

[rrich1]

I obviously didn't install mine but mine is located under the dash.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by rrich1

I obviously didn't install mine but mine is located under the dash.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Looks good. I just don't like seeing the switch on the other side of the firewall.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

Do you think the 4 gauge cable would get warm after a while or your just talking about low amps for the size?

I don't think that would be an issue. The use of 4 gauge wire is perfect for 12 volts, but becomes current limiting at 6 volts when cranking an engine to start. Beyond starting, the 4 gauge is OK for everything else.

You may be just fine starting, but as soon as age starts its process of oxidation it will creep up on you and some day it'll be cranking too slow and you'll be wondering why. If you stay with the 4 gauge, just be mindful of the issue. Keep connections pristine.

[Russ/40]

Not familiar with seat mounting in a sedan, I don't know if you have a seat riser like in the trucks, rdstrs etc. The front of the seat riser just below your left leg would be ideal, as it is close to the battery, and minimal cabling would be needed.

By the way, I like your sedan. What is the story with it. History....

[Smooth_One]

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Originally Posted by Russ/40

Not familiar with seat mounting in a sedan, I don't know if you have a seat riser like in the trucks, rdstrs etc. The front of the seat riser just below your left leg would be ideal, as it is close to the battery, and minimal cabling would be needed.

By the way, I like your sedan. What is the story with it. History....

Thanks for the input!
My Tudor came from just north of Detroit from my father in-law. He’s owned it since 1962. He drove it a ton back then and then he bought a few more A’s and had one or two Model T’s so the Tudor got parked for around 30 years and hasn’t been touched til I got it.

[slammin]

I mounted mine thru the floor under the driers seat, using #2 copper wire. I also added another ground cable over to the tranny mount.

[Cave]

Nice install Smooth_One! The PO installed the same one in my '31 coupe. To save opening the hood so often I fabricated an extension rod that reaches the switch and protrudes out a little under the hood (there was adequate clearance without having to modify the hood).
installed.jpg

underhood.jpg

knob.jpg

rod.jpg

bend.jpg


I drilled and tapped the switch handle to accommodate the eyebolt and put a dab of JBWeld (not shown) on it to keep it snug. I bent a 1/4" threaded rod - note: I ground off the threads before heating and bending, experience told me that threads sometimes tear through the stock when bent. Then I covered it with 1/4" shrink tubing to hide the threads. Finally one more stainless steel eyebolt to make an outside support.
Purists will balk, I'm ok, I drive it for me, not others.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Cave

Nice install Smooth_One! The PO installed the same one in my '31 coupe. To save opening the hood so often I fabricated an extension rod that reaches the switch and protrudes out a little under the hood (there was adequate clearance without having to modify the hood).
Attachment 387864

Attachment 387865

Attachment 387866

Attachment 387867

Attachment 387868



I drilled and tapped the switch handle to accommodate the eyebolt and put a dab of JBWeld (not shown) on it to keep it snug. I bent a 1/4" threaded rod - note: I ground off the threads before heating and bending, experience told me that threads sometimes tear through the stock when bent. Then I covered it with 1/4" shrink tubing to hide the threads. Finally one more stainless steel eyebolt to make an outside support.
Purists will balk, I'm ok, I drive it for me, not others.

Very nice. Thanks for sharing! Simple but clean fab work there.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by slammin

I mounted mine thru the floor under the driers seat, using #2 copper wire. I also added another ground cable over to the tranny mount.

I did run another 4 gauge ground cable from a spot i cleaned down to bare metal on the frame and then to a clean spot on the bell housing. I'm also going to run another one on the passenger side in the same spots for peace of mind.
We''ll see how it works.
The starter spins waaaayyy faster with the ground attached! Very noticeable difference!
When I get some worn engine parts replaced I will replace all motor mounts and clean the frame to regain some lost frame ground.

[Jim M]

I have mine under the hood instead of the cab. They both have pro's and con's...what ever works for you! Looks great!

[Cave]

What am I doing wrong... how do I get my jpgs to show without having to login?

[katy]

When you log on, click on Remember me? Then you automatically "log on" when you access the site.

[Cave]

Yes, I understand that, but just casually browsing anyone can see Smooth_One's photos, mine you either have to click on the jpg name or sign in. There must be a set-up option I've missed.

[Russ/40]

Clever addition Cave!

[Steves46]

[QUOTE=BillLee/Chandler, TX;1723380]Mine is mounted under the floor on a bracket I made from 1/8" aluminum, screwed to the bottom of the wood cross piece. I then made an extension to the shaft where the handle mounts so that the handle is just above the level of the carpet under the front edge of the seat. Yes, a hole drilled through the wood floorboard behind the steel cross member. Very unobtrusive and easily accessed.



With the switch there, I can easily disconnect the entire system from the battery (which I do as I exit the car).



Problems of concern that the switch being easily accessible address:


* A stuck starter switch ( have seen happen).
* Stuck brake light switch.
* Reverse drain through alternator when not running.
* Short behind the dash panel.
* Theft prevention.
* Forgotten headlights or turn signals.



(I'm sure there are others, I invite contributions. :-) )


Edit to add a picture showing the switch through floor board, no carpets installed at that time.[/QUOTE

With regards to the reverse drain to the Alternator, explanation please? I have one of these switches and also have an alternator...does this mean I need to shut off the switch every time I drive the car and stop somewhere like a car show? I had to get a jump start today and wondered if this could have happened

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by Cave

Yes, I understand that, but just casually browsing anyone can see Smooth_One's photos, mine you either have to click on the jpg name or sign in. There must be a set-up option I've missed.

Maybe his are external links rather than stored in the Ford Barn forum.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by Steves46

With regards to the reverse drain to the Alternator, explanation please? I have one of these switches and also have an alternator...does this mean I need to shut off the switch every time I drive the car and stop somewhere like a car show? I had to get a jump start today and wondered if this could have happened

The alternator regulator draws a few milliamps at all times. Same for electronic cutout regulators and turn signal e-flashers. Shouldn't be a battery drain issue unless the car is parked for an extended period (weeks/months).

[wmws]

At least you put the switch in the ground cable. So many put it on the hot side which leaves the part from the switch to the hot battery post exposed to shorting.