Light switch problems...

[Smooth_One]

Please help. I’m about at my wits end with this light switch issue!
I had a problem months ago with the light switch on my Tudor, I replaced the old harness with one from Sacramento Early Ford and then picked up a cheap light switch from Macs installed both in the car and turned the switch on the wheel and it clicked and seemed stuck.. well I worked on it for hours to no resolve and walked away from it for a few months. So then I bought a USA made switch from Berts thinking that would solve the problem and guess what... NOPE!!
I’m needing help on what diagnosis step to take next. Please tell me these old beasts aren’t so picky that I have to buy yet another matching harness to go with the new switch?? How does the spider act when it wears out??
PLEASE HELP!

[Brentwood Bob]

Do you have the old light switch housing and old hrmess.
Either rework the new housing to work with the new harness, or use the old plate soldered to the new harness in the old housing.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Do you have the old light switch housing and old hrmess.
Either rework the new housing to work with the new harness, or use the old plate soldered to the new harness in the old housing.

I have a brand new harness and I just got a brand new USA made connection housing this week.
It is really hard to turn the switch on the steering wheel! You can actually feel the rod in the column flexing before it pops loose and does anything.
???

[Mike Peters]

Do you have the spider (the two prong device on the end of the light switch rod) properly engaged in the light switch body? In the 'off' position, the two slots that engage the spider are approximately in the 10 and 4 O'clock positions. With the light switch rod handle in approximately the 6 O'clock position, the spider should engage the switch fully. You should not have to force it to engage. Dim and bright will be two clicks to the right, (counterclockwise). Parking/cowl lights should be one click to the left(clockwise) of the off position. With the light switch disconnected from the steering column, turn the light switch rod to see if it still binds. If not, the then the problem may be the way you connected the light switch to light switch rod.

[Jeff M]

This will tell you how to fix it. I had the same issue test fitting my harness in a US switch. I ended up trying an original and it moved better. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233701

[Jeff M]

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On that note, how does the tail light wire run? Does it clip to the lower frame rail?

[Smooth_One]

Thanks all! Jim from MAFCA just sent me this link.
https://www.brattons.com/files/index...id/1519764814/

[Smooth_One]

I'm going to carefully file down the plastic and see what happens.

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by Jeff M

On that note, how does the tail light wire run? Does it clip to the lower frame rail?

Yes there are small metal clips along the inside of the frame/body.

[JDupuis]

You're on the right track! . Jeff

[john in illinois]

I also use a Dremel with a grinding burr to smooth the edges of the holes in the brass contacts. The rotating contact can move out of the depression easier.

John

[kimeccles]

Thanks to all above. Based on the info in this and the other two links provided, I can see that I should do a bit of smoothing on the 3 black "off" contacts on the new harness disk and use dielectric grease.

However, I am using my restored original metal housing and it does look like the L shaped contact on the reproduction housing is deeper and makes the disk tighter than the original housing, in addition to the disk thickness issue. It may not need to have as much (.035") removed from the disk.

Yes, the original looks better than the older reproduction in the picture.

[IMG][/IMG].

[Smooth_One]

This is both together the Chinese aftermarket on the left and the USA made one on the right.

[SteveB31]

Simple solution. On the edge of the bottom piece of the light switch, sand off about .035. The problem is the black disk is too thick. Sanding off the edge solves this any questions, call me.

Steve Becker
Bert’s Model A Center

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by SteveB31

Simple solution. On the edge of the bottom piece of the light switch, sand off about .035. The problem is the black disk is too thick. Sanding off the edge solves this any questions, call me.

Steve Becker
Bert’s Model A Center

Thanks Steve!

[Smooth_One]

I just ground down the plastic to .315 and it works perfectly!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Smooth_One

I just ground down the plastic to .315 and it works perfectly!

I'm sure that with a name like yours', it wuz an EASY TASK!
Bill Roughandragged

[Smooth_One]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

I'm sure that with a name like yours', it wuz an EASY TASK!
Bill Roughandragged

Yeah well I got a little crazy and chewed up my finger when the Snap On burr bit came off the surface headed for my hand but I'll skip those pictures...
Caught my two center fingers pretty good. lol

[JDupuis]

Glad to hear it is working. I had to file the plastic disc on a new harness a year ago. Jeff