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Old 01-15-2022, 07:54 PM   #1
BillCNC
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Default Seepage at the head

Hey All,

I noticed a sticky black line forming at the head gasket at the front right corner of the head for about a month. I went for a drive with a guy who has a 30 coupe and we did a little bit of gentle hill climbing and I was slower than he was by far, but she runs and idles good. When we parked, I lifted the hood and noticed some coolant resting on the front of the oil return tube and a bit trickling from the right front corner of the head.

I checked the torque of the nut's and they are at 55 ft. lb. The nut's have paint build up so I'm unsure if I should remove the paint, then retorque, or if I should start to think about finding a way to loosen it all and replace the studs, nuts and gasket. I need to be careful as I can't afford to rebuild if I break a stud.

Regards
Bill
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Old 01-15-2022, 10:31 PM   #2
CT Jack
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

I would replace the head gasket. When the head is off check the flatness of the head and look for cracks. If the head is not flat have it machined. Cracks can be stitched with small threaded studs. Torqueing the head must be done following the proper tightening sequence. Excessive paint on the nuts has nothing to do with coolant leaks.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:45 AM   #3
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

to check the severity, you can remove the coolant and fill with straight water.


I had a car where I did this and the leak stopped. the water is a bit thicker then the coolant and I notice you are in south Cal.


If the leak truly is minimal, a sealer might be the way to go.
Perhaps thats the lazy mans method........... I dont like to rip things apart that are minimal.
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:07 AM   #4
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

When I have this I see a Doctor.
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:36 AM   #5
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

If you can't afford to open Pandora's box use sealer.
Many times the block deck is low in the corner there from rust, both head and block may need to be surfaced, not hard to get head done once off, but with the block it has to come out, studs and valves removed-----
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:37 AM   #6
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

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Your car's performance probably has nothing to do with the coolant leakage. If you have the stock head you may want to put on a high compression head and do a tune up.

I would recommend a new head gasket. I used the Best brand gasket and the copper spray and it worked well on my car. You should not have to replace the studs unless they are very rusty. You can run a die down to clean up the threads. The block and head should be flat and clean. I use acetone as the finial wipe. Small pits and imperfections in the block can be filled in with JB Weld and sanded flat with 400 grit paper wrapped around a flat file. The head can be flattened using 220 grit paper glued to a flat surface like a granite block. It is best to have it re machined but the sanding is low cost if funds are an issue. Clean the paint off the nuts. Torque according to the specifications in gradual increases. Use a little anti-seize on the nuts. Consult the red book Model A Mechanics Handbook Vol I. Retorque according to directions.
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Old 01-16-2022, 09:52 AM   #7
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

I would try the water and sealer before I did anything else. Easy and cheap, plus there is most likely a very good chance that it will work.

What do you have to lose?

Good luck.
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Old 01-16-2022, 10:49 AM   #8
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

If the car has been sitting for a while I would drive and torgue the head 3 or 4 times. Sometimes all it needs is the heat cycle and torque to seat the head again. JP
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Old 01-16-2022, 11:55 AM   #9
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

When you checked the torque on the nuts did you back them off before re-torquing them?
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Old 01-16-2022, 11:56 AM   #10
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Is it possible it is a weeping head gasket many model A’s do this ! My car seems to do this every winter especially if I started during the cold winter days. So the last three years I don’t start it while it is in storage ,and no more weeping. If your car is running well as mine does you maybe ok .The very best of luck to you Joe .
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Old 01-16-2022, 12:03 PM   #11
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

When I install a new gasket I put silicone sealer on the inner sides of the gasket to prevent seepage thru the gasket itself. Just in the RF & RR corners seems to be all that is needed.
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Old 01-17-2022, 04:41 PM   #12
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Great information thanks for sharing
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Old 01-18-2022, 06:07 AM   #13
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Something to thing about..... some people will clean the block and head surface with a wire wheel,
This will round the edge of both the head and block. This could be one factor for the weeping.
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Old 01-21-2022, 03:46 PM   #14
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Did you add anything to the coolant ? Happened to me when adding Bardahl’s radiator protector/cleaner/waterpump grease …
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Old 01-22-2022, 10:36 AM   #15
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Quote:
Originally Posted by hazelhoff View Post
Did you add anything to the coolant ? Happened to me when adding Bardahl’s radiator protector/cleaner/waterpump grease …
Nothing has been added to the radiator as in, "repair from a bottle". I had my radiator rodded, un-soldered, and reassembled again. It took three tries to get it like that, so nothing but distilled water and anti-freeze are the only things going down that hole.

I'll be leaving here shortly to go to CWMoss to pick up a head gasket along with new studs and nuts for plan "B" and a few other parts.

I'll first loosen the nut's then retorque them. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll have all the to fix the problem already on hand. I should have already had these parts on hand with the rest of my spare consumable parts on hand.

Regards
Bill
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Old 01-22-2022, 10:38 AM   #16
BillCNC
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Default Re: Seepage at the head

Quote:
Originally Posted by hazelhoff View Post
Did you add anything to the coolant ? Happened to me when adding Bardahl’s radiator protector/cleaner/waterpump grease …
Nothing has been added to the radiator as in, "repair from a bottle". I had my radiator rodded, un-soldered, and reassembled again. It took three tries to get it like that, so nothing but distilled water and anti-freeze are the only things going down that hole.

I'll be leaving here shortly to go to CWMoss to pick up a head gasket along with new studs and nuts for plan "B", and a few other parts.

I'll first loosen the nut's then retorque them. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll have all the parts on hand to fix the problem. I should have already had these parts already with the rest of my spare consumable parts on hand.

Regards
Bill
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